Growing Up

Using Nutrients in Hydroponic Growrooms

Wed, 18 Mar 2026 12:19:15 GMT

Get the balance right...

Hydroponic systems rely heavily on the right balance of nutrients to support plant growth since they don’t have soil to provide nutrients. The plants get all their essential elements from a nutrient solution, which is carefully mixed to ensure that each element is available in the right proportion.

Here’s a breakdown of how nutrients are used in hydroponic systems:

1. Macronutrients

These are the primary nutrients that plants need in large quantities for growth:

Nitrogen (N) : Crucial for leaf and stem development. It’s a major component of amino acids and chlorophyll.
Phosphorus (P) : Essential for root development, flowering, and fruiting. It’s part of the ATP (energy currency of the plant).
Potassium (K) : Important for overall plant health, helping with enzyme activation, disease resistance, and water regulation.
Calcium (Ca) : Helps with cell wall structure, root growth, and nutrient uptake.
Magnesium (Mg) : Central component of chlorophyll and necessary for photosynthesis.
Sulphur (S) : Involved in amino acid and protein synthesis, and contributes to overall plant metabolism.

2. Micronutrients

These are needed in much smaller quantities, but they are still essential for plant health:

Iron (Fe) : Vital for chlorophyll formation and energy production.
Manganese (Mn) : Aids in photosynthesis and enzyme activation.
Zinc (Zn) : Plays a role in the production of growth hormones.
Copper (Cu) : Important for photosynthesis and plant respiration.
Boron (B) : Essential for cell wall formation and reproductive growth.
Molybdenum (Mo) : Helps in nitrogen metabolism.
Chlorine (Cl) : Involved in osmosis and photosynthesis.

3. How Nutrient Solutions Are Made

Hydroponic nutrient solutions are typically created by dissolving water-soluble fertilizers (which provide the macronutrients and micronutrients) into water. The concentration of nutrients is measured in parts per million (ppm) or electrical conductivity (EC).

The nutrient solution must be monitored and adjusted regularly to make sure it has the right nutrient balance and pH level (typically between 5.5 and 6.5 for most plants). Too much or too little of a nutrient can lead to deficiencies or toxicities.

4. Types of Hydroponic Nutrient Solutions

Complete Nutrient Mixes : These contain all the essential nutrients in a balanced ratio, often used in simpler systems like deep water culture or wick systems.
Custom Nutrient Mixes : Some advanced growers prefer creating their own custom solutions based on the specific needs of their plants. This can be adjusted for different growth phases, such as vegetative or flowering stages.

5. Fertiliser Types in Hydroponics

Synthetic Fertilisers : These are manufactured fertilisers, containing precise amounts of nutrients. Common examples are calcium nitrate, potassium nitrate, and ammonium phosphate.
Organic Fertilisers : These are derived from natural sources like compost or fish emulsion. They’re less commonly used in hydroponics, but they can be an option for organic hydroponic systems.

6. Nutrient Deficiencies and Toxicities

Deficiencies : If plants aren’t getting enough of a particular nutrient, they can exhibit symptoms like yellowing leaves (nitrogen deficiency), poor root growth (phosphorus deficiency), or brown leaf tips (potassium deficiency).
Toxicities : Too much of a nutrient can also harm plants. For example, excessive nitrogen can cause rapid, weak growth, while too much potassium can interfere with the uptake of other essential nutrients.

7. EC and pH Monitoring

EC (Electrical Conductivity) : Measures the total concentration of dissolved salts (nutrients) in the solution. It helps determine if your plants are getting the right amount of nutrients. Common target EC levels range from 1.5-3.0 for most hydroponic systems.
pH : Hydroponic plants require a slightly acidic environment (pH between 5.5 and 6.5) for optimal nutrient uptake. pH meters and adjusters are used to maintain the ideal range.

Prepare in Advance for Summer!

Wed, 04 Mar 2026 11:19:22 GMT

Don't get caught out last minute!

Preparing your hydroponic growroom for summer is a great idea! As temperatures rise, there are a few steps you can take to make sure your system thrives and your plants stay healthy. Here's a checklist for getting your hydroponic growroom ready for the warmer months:

1. Temperature Control

Check your cooling system : As the weather gets hotter, your grow room temperature can increase. Ensure that your fans, air conditioning, or ventilation system is working effectively.
Ideal temperature : For most hydroponic plants, 18-24°C (65-75°F) during the day and 13-18°C (55-65°F) at night.
Increase ventilation : If your grow room gets hot, you may need to increase the airflow. You can install additional fans or increase the speed of your existing ones.
Air conditioning : If you don't have one, consider getting a small AC unit.
Use reflective materials : Ensure your grow room is using reflective walls or Mylar to bounce heat away from plants.

2. Light Management

Adjust light schedules : With longer daylight hours, you might need to adjust your light cycle, especially if you use artificial grow lights. You might want to extend or shorten the photoperiod to ensure optimal plant growth.
Check light intensity : In summer, sunlight can overpower artificial lights. If you are using supplemental lights, you may need to adjust the light distance to prevent burning your plants.
Ensure lights are clean : Dust can accumulate on your lights, reducing their efficiency. Clean them regularly for optimal performance.

3. Humidity Levels

Monitor humidity : Summer heat can dry out the air, affecting your plants' growth. Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels and aim for 50-70% depending on the plant type.
Increase humidity : If it's too dry, you can increase humidity by using a humidifier, placing trays of water around the grow room, or adding a misting system.
Dehumidify if necessary : If you’re in a very humid area, consider using a dehumidifier to prevent mould growth and excessive moisture.

4. Watering and Nutrient Solution

Check your water temperature : Warm temperatures can increase the temperature of your nutrient solution. Aim for 18-21°C (65-70°F) to avoid root rot.
Add coolers or chillers : You can use water chillers or add ice packs to your reservoir to help regulate the water temperature.
Nutrient concentration : Warmer temperatures can cause faster plant growth, meaning they may need more nutrients. Be sure to adjust the nutrient concentration to match the increased growth rate.

5. Pest Prevention

Check for pests : Warmer weather brings more bugs. Inspect your plants regularly for common pests like aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies.
Use pest repellents : Neem oil, insecticidal soap, or beneficial insects like ladybugs or predatory mites can help keep pests at bay.
Clean and sterilize : Regularly clean your grow room, tools, and hydroponic system to prevent the spread of pests or diseases.

6. Water Source & Quality

Check your water quality : With summer heat, water evaporation increases, and you may experience more mineral buildup in your system. Monitor your water's pH and EC (electrical conductivity) to ensure your plants get the right nutrients.
Consider a filtration system : If you're in an area with hard water, using a filtration system like a reverse osmosis filter can help maintain nutrient balance.

7. Prepare for Power Outages

Backup power : Summer storms or heat waves can cause power outages. Consider having a backup power supply (like a generator) to keep your grow lights, ventilation, and pumps running.
Battery-powered air pumps : These can keep water circulating in your hydroponic system during brief outages.

8. Plan for Holidays or Absences

Automated systems : If you plan to be away during the summer, set up automated timers for lights, fans, and watering systems, or consider a remote monitoring system that lets you control your grow room remotely.
Hydration systems : Make sure your plants won’t go without water. Systems like drip irrigation or self-watering reservoirs can help while you’re gone.

9. Maintain Cleanliness

Clean your system regularly : In the summer, growth can accelerate, which means biofilm or algae might form more quickly in your system. Make sure to clean your hydroponic setup frequently to avoid clogs and contamination.

10. Monitor Your Plants

Watch for stress signs : Keep an eye on your plants. Look for signs of heat stress, such as wilting, curling leaves, or yellowing.
Make adjustments as needed : If plants are showing signs of stress, adjust the environment, watering, or nutrient levels accordingly.

Choosing the Light option...

Wed, 18 Feb 2026 12:42:13 GMT

Lighting choice depends on room size, budget, heat management, and what you’re growing , but modern grow rooms overwhelmingly use LED grow lights because they’re efficient, powerful, and run cooler than older technologies.

Below is a clear breakdown so you can choose the right system.

LED Grow Lights (Best Overall)

High efficiency (more light per watt)
Lower heat output
Full spectrum options (veg + flower in one fixture)
Long lifespan (50,000+ hours)

What to look for:

Full spectrum (3000K–4000K + 660nm red)
High PPFD output
Good brand drivers (e.g., Mean Well)
Samsung LM301 diodes (common in quality fixtures)

Power guide:

~30–40 watts per square foot (for flowering)
Example: 4x4 ft tent → 480–640W LED

Best choice for small to medium grow rooms.

HPS (High Pressure Sodium)

Pros:

Excellent flowering performance
Strong canopy penetration
Lower upfront cost

Cons:

Runs hot
Higher electricity use
Needs bulb replacement

Common sizes:

600W (great for 4x4)
1000W (for 5x5 or larger)

Requires strong ventilation due to heat.

CMH (Ceramic Metal Halide)

Pros:

Excellent spectrum quality
Good terpene/resin production
Less heat than HPS

Cons:

Not as efficient as modern LEDs
Bulb replacements needed

Common setup:

315W for 3x3
630W for 4x4

How Much Light Do You Need?

Instead of just watts, modern growers use PPFD (light intensity):

Veg: 300–600 µmol/m²/s
Flower: 700–1000 µmol/m²/s

For most hobby setups, using watts per square foot is simpler:

Heat Considerations

LEDs = easiest temperature control
HPS = may need air-cooled hood
More light = more ventilation required

If heat control is difficult, LED is strongly recommended!

Setting up Air Filters in your Grow Room

Wed, 11 Feb 2026 12:15:46 GMT

There are different filters for different purposes....

Using air filters in a hydroponic grow room is mainly about odour control, air cleanliness, and pathogen prevention . Since hydro systems rely heavily on clean, controlled environments, proper filtration makes a big difference in plant health and discretion.

Here’s a clear breakdown of how to use them correctly:

Types of Air Filters You’ll Use

Carbon Filters (Odour Control)

Purpose: Removes smell (especially during flowering stage).
Best for: Strong-smelling plants

How to use:

Attach carbon filter to an inline exhaust fan
Mount it at the top of the grow room/tent (hot air rises)
Airflow direction: Filter → Fan → Duct → Outside

Pro Tip:
Always match the filter CFM rating to your fan’s CFM.

HEPA Filters (Air Cleanliness & Pathogen Control)

Purpose: Removes...

Mould spores
Powdery mildew
Pollen
Dust
Insect particles

How to use:

Place near air intake or inside the room
Best paired with positive pressure systems
Run continuously in humid environments

Especially important in hydroponics because high humidity risks getting mould.

Intake Pre-Filters (Dust & Pest Prevention)

Purpose: Stops:

Bugs
Dust
Outdoor contaminants

How to use:

Install on passive intake vents
Or attach to intake ducting
Clean weekl y

Basic Airflow Setup for Hydroponics

Fresh Air Intake (Filtered) → Grow Room → Carbon Filter → Inline Fan → Exhaust Outside

Target Air Exchange Rate:

Replace room air every 1–3 minutes
Calculate CFM needed:

Room Volume (L×W×H) ÷ 1–3 minutes = Required CFM

Placement Tips

✅ Carbon filter high up
✅ Intake low (cool air enters from bottom)
✅ Keep ducting short and straight
✅ Seal all light leaks
✅ Maintain slight negative pressure (walls suck inward slightly)

Negative pressure ensures odours don’t leak out.

Maintenance Schedule

If you smell odour it means the carbon filter is saturated.

Extra Tips for Hydroponic Rooms

Keep humidity levels at 40-60% duting the veg stage and 40-50% when flowering
Use oscillating fans for internal airflow
Combine filters with dehumidifier in high humidity
Seal cracks to prevent unfiltered air leaks

Using Odour Neutralisers in a Grow Room

Fri, 30 Jan 2026 11:44:57 GMT

Here’s how to use them properly without hurting plants or wasting money.

First and foremost, regulate the airflow then m anage smells in a hydroponic grow room with the neutralisers. Neutralisers work best as a great backup with the main line of defence.

1️⃣ Get the basics right (before neutralisers)

Before adding any odour product, make sure you have:

Inline exhaust fan pulling air out of the room
Carbon filter attached to that exhaust
Slight negative pressure (walls/tent gently pulling inward)

�� If smells are strong, a neutraliser alone won’t save you. Fix airflow first.

2️⃣ Choose the right type of odour neutraliser

Gel or bucket neutralisers (ONA-style, enzyme-based)
Passive absorption bags
Enzyme-based sprays (for surfaces only)

These neutralise odours chemically instead of masking them.

❌ Avoid

Incense or scented candles
Aerosol air fresheners
Essential oil diffusers inside the grow room

Strong fragrances can:

Stress plants
Affect taste/aroma
Stick to buds or leaves

3️⃣ Placement matters (this is where most people mess up)

Never place neutralisers inside the grow room or tent.

✔ Best placement:

Outside the grow room door
In the exhaust air path after air exits
In hallways, closets, or intake-adjacent spaces

Why?
You want to neutralise smell after it leaves the plant environment, not before.

�� Rule of thumb:
If your plants can smell it, it’s too close.

4️⃣ How much to use

Start with less than the label recommends
Increase gradually if odour escapes
Replace gels every 3–6 weeks (or sooner if dried out)

Too much neutraliser can:

Leak fragrance back into intake air
Cause headaches
Raise humidity slightly

5️⃣ Use neutralisers as a support system

Best combo looks like this:

Carbon filter = 90% of odour control
Neutraliser = last 10% insurance

They’re perfect for:

Door openings
Late flowering stages
Harvest days
Trim sessions

6️⃣ Extra pro tips ��

Keep temps below 26°C / 79°F (heat increases smell)
Control humidity (high RH = stronger odour spread)
Replace carbon filters every 9–18 months
Clean spills, dead roots, and standing water (they smell too!)

Feel free to tell us your....:

Grow room or tent size
Whether odour is escaping all the time or only at certain stages

And we will help to find the best solution!

Air Movement

Wed, 29 Oct 2025 12:47:25 GMT

The Science that will Go with the Flow

Proper air movement is critical for a successful hydroponic grow room. It affects plant health, disease prevention, CO₂ availability, temperature control, and humidity levels.

Here's how to set up air movement the right way...

1. Understand Why Air Movement Matters

Prevents mould/mildew: Stops stagnant, humid air.
Strengthens stems: Mimics outdoor breeze, promotes stronger plant structure.
Even temperature & humidity: Distributes heat from grow lights and keeps humidity uniform.
Improves CO₂ uptake... Fresh air = better photosynthesis.

2. Equipment You’ll Need

Oscillating Fans

This will create constant gentle air movement across plants. The best placement for the fans is...

1–2 fans at canopy level , oscillating back and forth.
Angle slightly downward but never blowing directly on plants at high speed.

Exhaust Fan (Inline Fan)

Purpose: Pull stale, humid, or hot air out of the grow room.
Size: Depends on grow room volume (see CFM calculation below).
Placement: High on the wall or ceiling (because heat rises).

Intake Fan or Passive Intake

Purpose: Bring fresh air into the room.
Passive intake: Just an open vent (relies on negative pressure from the exhaust).
Active intake: Small fan pulling air in (ideal if passive isn’t sufficient).

Environmental Controllers (optional but ideal)

Temp & humidity controller to turn fans on/off based on set levels.
Can also control humidifiers/dehumidifiers and heaters.

3. Calculate Fan Size (CFM)

CFM = Cubic Feet per Minute — how much air your fan can move. The formula is below:

Room volume (ft³) = Length × Width × Height
CFM needed = Room volume × Air exchange rate (typically 1 every 1–3 minutes)

An example is below...

Room size: 10' x 8' x 7' = 560 ft³
Desired exchange every 2 minutes: 560 ÷ 2 = 280 CFM

For this scenario, choose an exhaust fan rated at least 280 CFM (add 10–20% buffer if using carbon filters or ducting).

4. Control Temperature & Humidity

Temp Range: 70–80°F (21–27°C) lights on, 65–75°F (18–24°C) lights off
Humidity (RH):
Seedlings: 65–70%
Veg: 50–70%
Flowering: 40–50% (lower to prevent mould)

Optional Tools...

Humidifier/Dehumidifier (based on your climate)
AC or Heater for temp control
CO₂ supplement (optional, if you're sealing the room)

5. Set Up Ideal Air Flow Pattern

[Passive/Intake Vent] ---> [Canopy + Oscillating Fans] ---> [Exhaust Fan]

Fresh air enters low (intake)
Moves across plants with help of oscillating fans
Exits high via exhaust fan
Creates a clean airflow loop

6. Monitor and Adjust

Use digital thermometer/hygrometer combos placed at:

Canopy level (main concern)
Room corners or near air vents (check for dead spots)

Common Mistakes to Avoid

❌ No air circulation: Leads to hot/humid pockets = mold & weak plants.

❌ Too strong airflow: Can wind-burn leaves and stress plants.

❌ No exhaust: Just recirculating hot, stale air.

Would you like any further knowledge or advice on this? If so then please feel free to give us a call or visit us in store!

The Ideal PK Ratio

Thu, 11 Sep 2025 10:34:40 GMT

Let your plants bloom in fine style

If you’re looking for good PK (phosphorous : potassium) additives for hydroponics — especially ones with strong ratios for flowering/fruiting phases — here are some good options and things to watch out for

What to look out for...

Ratio of P:K — usually bloom boosters are somewhere between 1:1 up to 1:2 or even more K-heavy (depending on the plant & stage).
Form of nutrients: water-soluble, chelated etc so root uptake is good.
That the product doesn’t overload EC / salt stress + doesn’t antagonise other nutrients.
Peak flowering use (last few weeks) often when these are most useful.

Examples...

Plant Magic PK 13/14~13% P / 14% K (“PK 13/14”) — nearly 1:1 ratio.
Shogun PK Warrior 9-189 : 18 (P : K) — more potassium heavy.
Mills Ultimate PK 0-7-67 : 6 (P : K) — slightly more P but balanced.
Vitalink PK 13-1413 : 14 — high-PK balanced booster.
Canna PK 13/1413 : 14 — a standard choice.

Product Suggestions...

Here are some PK additives / boosters you could buy that have good P:K ratios.

Plant Magic PK 13/14 — nearly 1:1, great all-round bloom booster..
Canna PK 13/14 — established product; widely used.
VitaLink PK (5 L) — good size; same PK ratio.
Ionic PK Boost — good multiplier; useful in middle-late bloom.
The Source Alluvium PK Stimulator (0‑18‑20) — very high P & K; more aggressive, so use carefully.
Plant Magic Platinum PK 9‑18 — more K heavy, good if you feel your flowering is lagging.
House & Garden PK 13‑14 — premium; good quality.
Intense Nutrients PK‑Phite — special form (phosphite) which may have different uptake / effects; can help in certain conditions.

Give us a call or visit and let us know what you are growing and at what stage of growth it is and we will offer you the best suggestions!

Set up your own Grow Tent Hydroponics System

Wed, 03 Sep 2025 10:28:47 GMT

Setting up and using a hydroponics grow tent is all about creating a controlled environment where your plants can thrive without soil

Here’s a step-by-step guide:

1. Choose Your Grow Tent

Size : Pick a tent that matches your available space and plant count. Common sizes range from 120x120 cm for small grows to 800x400cm for larger setups.
Features : Look for tents with reflective interiors (Mylar), sturdy zippers, multiple vent ports, and strong support poles.

2. Gather Equipment

You’ll need:

Hydroponic system (DWC, NFT, Ebb & Flow, Drip, or Aeroponics—DWC is easiest for beginners).
Grow lights (LEDs are energy-efficient and run cool; HPS/CMH work too but run hotter).
Ventilation : Inline fan, ducting, carbon filter (for odor control), and oscillating fans for air circulation.
Water reservoir with air pump, air stones, tubing.
Nutrients (hydroponic-specific).
pH & EC/TDS meters .
Net pots & growing medium (clay pebbles, rockwool, coco coir).
Timer (for lights and possibly pumps).

3. Set Up the Tent

Assemble tent frame and attach the fabric cover.
Install ventilation :

Hang the carbon filter and inline fan inside or outside the tent.
Connect ducting to vent hot air out of the room.
Place small clip-on fans inside for airflow.

Install grow lights : Hang at adjustable height. Keep proper distance (LED: usually 12–24", HID: 18–36").
Place hydro system : Reservoir goes inside or outside tent (depending on design). Ensure easy access.
Run power safely : Use surge protectors and keep cords off the floor to avoid water hazards.

4. Prepare the Hydroponic System

Fill reservoir with clean water.
Add nutrients according to the nutrient manufacturer’s schedule.
Adjust pH (typically 5.5–6.5 for most plants).
Insert air stones connected to the air pump to oxygenate water.
Place net pots with seedlings or clones into the system.

5. Control the Environment

Lighting schedule :
Veg stage: 18 hours light / 6 hours dark.
Flowering stage: 12 hours light / 12 hours dark.
Temperature :
Day: 70–80°F (21–27°C).
Night: 65–70°F (18–21°C).
Humidity :
Veg: 50–70%.
Flowering: 40–50%.
Air exchange : Replace tent air every 1–3 minutes using fans.

6. Daily & Weekly Maintenance

Check water level in reservoir.
Monitor pH & EC/TDS daily; adjust if needed.
Prune plants to allow airflow and light penetration.
Top up nutrients weekly; replace reservoir solution every 1–2 weeks.
Inspect for pests/mould regularly.

7. Harvesting & Cleaning

Harvest when plants mature.
Clean and sterilize all equipment between grows to prevent disease.

What about a nice organic approach then?

Thu, 21 Aug 2025 11:53:21 GMT

Here are the advantages (and slight challenges) of the organics....

Using organic nutrients in a hydroponic growroom can have some compelling benefits, though they also come with unique challenges. Here’s a breakdown of why you might choose organic nutrients :

�� Benefits of Organic Nutrients in Hydroponics

Improved Plant Health & Flavour

Organic nutrients contain a broader spectrum of micronutrients, amino acids, and natural compounds that can enhance flavor, aroma, and overall crop quality.
Many growers report more “terpene-rich” plants in herbs such as basil when using organics.

Microbial Life & Root Zone Health

Organic nutrients encourage beneficial microbes, fungi, and bacteria in the root zone.
These microbes help break down organic matter into plant-available forms, while also protecting roots from pathogens.

Sustainability & Eco-Friendliness

Organic nutrients are often derived from renewable, natural sources (compost, seaweed, fish hydrolysate, etc.).
Reduces reliance on synthetic salts, which can be environmentally damaging to produce and dispose of.

Lower Salt Build-Up & Toxicity

Synthetic hydroponic salts can accumulate in media or reservoirs, stressing plants.
Organics generally release nutrients more slowly and naturally, reducing the risk of “nutrient burn.”

Improved Soil-less Media Structure (in some systems)

If you’re using coco coir or other organic-leaning substrates, organics help maintain a more balanced microbial ecosystem, preventing compaction and aiding root aeration.

⚠️ Challenges to Consider

Reservoir Management : Organic nutrients can cause biofilm or sludge in tanks and lines, requiring more frequent cleaning.
Oxygen Demand : Microbes feeding on organics can deplete oxygen in water if not properly aerated.
Clogging Risk : Drip systems or fine emitters may clog more easily with organic nutrient solutions.
Consistency : Nutrient availability can be less precise than with synthetic salts, requiring monitoring and adjustments.

�� In short:

If you want flavour, sustainability, and natural plant resilience , organic nutrients are a strong choice.
If you prioritise precision, control, and efficiency , synthetic nutrients may be easier.

The Nutrients required for a Soil-Based Grow Room

Wed, 30 Jul 2025 14:17:47 GMT

The Guide to Macronutrients and Micronutrients

In a soil grow room , whether you're growing vegetables, herbs, or flowering plants, providing the essential nutrients in the right balance is critical to success. Here's a breakdown of what your plants need and how to provide it in a controlled indoor soil environment...

Essential Nutrients for Plants in a Soil Grow Room

Primary Macronutrients

Secondary Macronutrients

Micronutrients (Needed in small amounts but still essential)

How to Supply These Nutrients Indoors

Start with Good Potting Soil

Choose a quality organic or enriched potting mix with compost or worm castings.
Check pH (ideal is 6.0–7.0 for most plants).

Fertilizer Options

Organic:

Compost tea or worm tea: Balanced nutrients and beneficial microbes
Fish emulsion : High nitrogen
Bone meal : High phosphorus
Kelp meal : Micronutrients and potassium

Synthetic (liquid or granular):

Use a balanced NPK (e.g., 10-10-10 ) or targeted formulas (e.g., bloom boosters with higher phosphorus)
Micronutrient blends are available for indoor use

Feeding Schedule

Feed every 1–2 weeks with diluted nutrients (always follow label)
Monitor for signs of overfeeding (leaf burn, salt crust on soil)
Flush soil with plain water monthly to prevent salt buildup

Environmental Factors Matter

Even with perfect nutrients, your grow room must also support:

Light : Full-spectrum grow lights (18h/day for veg, 12h/day for flower)
Temperature : 70–85°F (21–29°C) depending on the plant
Humidity : 40–60% for most plants
Airflow : Fans help prevent mold and strengthen stems

Checklist: Nutrients in a Soil Grow Room

Quality potting soil with compost
Macronutrients (NPK) fertilizer
Calcium, magnesium, sulfur (Cal-Mag supplement optional)
Micronutrient blend (organic or synthetic)
pH-balanced water (pH ~6.5)
Grow lights and good airflow

Pest Control with a Smoke Bomb

Thu, 24 Jul 2025 11:56:12 GMT

Grab them before they grab your plants!

Pests can be an unexpected problem when setting up a fresh grow room, or at any stage through the development of the plants. The pests can spread a grow room disease and affect the health of the plants which will spoil the quality and ruin the appearance.

Examples are leafhoppers and aphids which can suck the sap out of the plants. Other damage can be the chewing of leaves and damage to the flowers.

Eggs can be laid into the tissue of the plants which causes further harm.

These tiny little pests can enter the grow room through tiny cracks, air vents, windows and can even be brought into the grow room on a person's clothes.

In addition, they are often of a similar colour to the plants which mean they are rather hidden from general eyesight!

Another possibility is by adding new plants from a different growroom that are already contaminated.

There are a large range of pests that can flourish in a grow room such as aphids, leafhoppers, ants, thrips, spider mites and traditional house flies.

Wings and droppings are often left behind on the leaves which is one way of identiying their presence.

An insect smoke bomb is a fantastic method of dealing with the pests and will eliminate them all without causing any harm to the plants.

They are also useful to decontaminate the grow room between growing sessions.

Available in a variety of sizes they are suitable for sterilising all different kinds of grow rooms.

They typically contain the active ingredient which is Permethrin.

Simply light the non-sparking wick, smoke fumes will work their way into all nooks and crannies killing all flying and crawling insects in treated area.

The one precaution to be aware of - ensure you exit the grow room immediately when the wick is lit.

Trimming your plants for the best growth

Wed, 16 Jul 2025 14:01:41 GMT

Plenty of straightforward ways to keep your crop tip-top!

Trimming or pruning hydroponic plants is essential to maintain healthy growth, optimise yield, and prevent disease. Here's a guide tailored specifically for hydroponic systems:

Why Trim Hydroponic Plants?

Promote Air Circulation – Prevent mould and mildew in a moist, enclosed hydroponic environment.
Encourage Growth – Direct energy to fruiting and flowering instead of excess foliage.
Shape the Plant – Manage height, spacing, and light penetration.
Remove Unhealthy Parts – Eliminate dead, yellowing, or diseased leaves early.

General Trimming Guidelines

When to Trim:

Vegetative Stage: Focus on shaping and opening the canopy.
Flowering/Fruiting Stage: Light trimming; remove unnecessary leaves blocking light.
After Transplanting or Shock: Wait a few days before trimming to avoid additional stress.

What to Trim:

Lower leaves : Especially if they are yellowing or shaded.
Suckers : These are shoots between the main stem and branches (common in tomatoes).
Dead/Diseased material : Always remove these immediately.
Overlapping leaves : Thin out dense areas to improve airflow.

Tools & Hygiene

Sharp pruning shears or scissors.
Sterilise with alcohol before/after use to prevent disease.
Dispose of trimmed material away from the grow area.

Trimming by Plant Type

Lettuce, Spinach, Herbs (e.g., Basil)

Harvest outer leaves first.
Regular light trimming encourages bushier growth.

Tomatoes, Peppers

Remove suckers regularly.
Trim bottom 6–12 inches of leaves for airflow.
Prune side branches during early flowering.

Cucumbers

Limit to 1–2 main vines.
Remove early flowers and lateral shoots to encourage vine growth.

Tips & Cautions

Don’t over-trim—plants need leaves for photosynthesis.
Always trim above a node (leaf joint) to encourage regrowth.
Monitor plant response; if stress signs appear, slow down pruning.

Fancy a bit of guidance tailored to a specific crop? Give us a call or nip into the shop for a few tips!

Why we should use pH pens in a hydroponic setup

Thu, 10 Jul 2025 09:58:33 GMT

pH ranges from 0 for acidic to 14 for alkaline.

Using pH pens (or pH meters) in a hydroponic setup is essential for maintaining healthy plant growth and nutrient availability. Here's why:

�� 1. Nutrient Availability Depends on pH

In hydroponics, plants absorb nutrients directly from the water solution.
If the pH is too high or too low , certain nutrients become chemically unavailable to plants—even if they’re present in the water.
Ideal pH range for most hydroponic crops: 5.5 – 6.5
Below 5.5 → nutrients like calcium and magnesium become less available.
Above 6.5 → iron, phosphorus, and manganese get locked out.

⚗️ 2. Prevent Nutrient Deficiencies & Toxicities

A wrong pH can mimic nutrient deficiencies (yellowing, poor growth) even when nutrients are sufficient.
Constant pH monitoring with a pen helps prevent misleading symptoms and the risk of overcorrecting with additives.

�� 3. Stability in Recirculating Systems

In recirculating hydroponic systems (like NFT or DWC), pH can drift over time due to:
Plant uptake
Microbial activity
Chemical reactions in the reservoir

A pH pen lets you quickly check and correct before drift causes harm.

✅ 4. Fast, Accurate, and Easy

A pH pen gives instant, precise readings , unlike paper test strips or color charts which can be subjective.
Digital pens also allow for frequent monitoring , which is key in active systems.

�� Bottom Line:

Using a pH pen in hydroponics ensures that your plants are growing in optimal conditions , maximizing yield and preventing avoidable issues. It's one of the most critical tools in any hydroponic grower's kit.

pH pens and testing kits that are available can be viewed here or feel free to give us a call for more information!

Hydroponics in Hot Weather

Wed, 25 Jun 2025 09:46:10 GMT

Automate the fans and cooling systems to help them grow at their best

Providing fresh air for hydroponics in hot weather is crucial to maintaining optimal plant health, preventing heat stress, and keeping humidity and CO₂ levels in balance. Here’s how to effectively manage it:

1. Ventilation

Active Ventilation: Use inline fans and exhaust fans to push out hot, stale air and draw in cooler, fresh air.
Air Intake: Install filtered air intakes low on the walls to pull in cooler outside air while preventing pests.
Cross-Ventilation: Position fans on opposite sides of the grow area to encourage airflow across the plants.

2. Evaporative Cooling

Use evaporative coolers (swamp coolers) or mist systems to reduce temperature and increase humidity.
Be cautious in already humid areas, as added moisture can lead to mould and disease.

3. Air Conditioning (AC)

For precise climate control , especially in sealed grow rooms , install portable or mini-split AC units .
Pair AC with a dehumidifier to maintain ideal humidity levels (50–70% for most crops).

4. Carbon Dioxide (CO₂) Management

In hot weather, plants consume CO₂ rapidly. If you're using sealed rooms , consider CO₂ injection systems (e.g., CO₂ tanks or generators) to maintain ~1000–1500 ppm.

5. Shade & Insulation

Use shade cloth or UV-filtering greenhouse films to block excessive sunlight.
Insulate walls and ceilings to reduce heat gain .

6. Monitor Environment

Use sensors for:

Temperature
Humidity
CO₂ levels
Airflow

Link these to a climate controller to automate fans, AC, CO₂, and humidifiers.

7. Night Cooling

Run exhaust systems more aggressively at night when outside temperatures drop, to purge built-up heat.

Feel free to contact us about your setup (indoor/outdoor, scale, climate zone) and we can tailor recommendations more specifically.

Growth Promotion for Young Plants

Thu, 12 Jun 2025 11:10:04 GMT

How to increase the plant vigour in your Hydroponic setup

A good growth promoter for young hydroponic plants typically enhances root development , nutrient uptake , and overall plant vigour without causing nutrient burn or imbalance. Here are a few commonly used and effective growth promoters:

1. Seaweed Extract (e.g., kelp extract)

Benefits :

Stimulates root and shoot growth, enhances stress tolerance, and boosts microbial activity.

Active Compounds:

Cytokinins, auxins, gibberellins.

Usage:

Dilute in water as per instructions and apply in the nutrient solution or as a foliar spray.

2. Humic and Fulvic Acids

Benefits :

Improves nutrient uptake, stimulates root development, and enhances microbial life in the growing medium.

Best For :

Early seedling stage and during transplanting.

3. Mycorrhizal Fungi and Beneficial Bacteria

Examples :

Rhizobium, Azospirillum, Trichoderma, Bacillus subtilis.

Benefits :

Promotes healthy root systems and helps in nutrient cycling.

Note :

Not all beneficial microbes work well in hydroponics, so use hydroponics-specific formulations.

4. B-Vitamin Complex (e.g., Vitamin B1 / Thiamine)

Benefits :

Reduces transplant shock, supports metabolic processes.

Common in :

Products like SuperThrive or Thrive Alive B-1.

5. Rooting Hormones (Auxins like IBA and NAA)

Use With Caution :

Helps in root formation but can be too strong if overused.

Product Example :

Clonex (gel form) or diluted root boosters for hydroponics.

6. Silica (Silicon Supplements)

Benefits :

Strengthens cell walls, increases resistance to pests and stress.

Use :

Include in early vegetative phase for best results.

Popular Commercial Growth Promoter Products for Hydroponics

Formulex

Formulex can be used as a general 'pick me up' and growth promoter for plants but especially seedlings and young plants. This is a universal hard and soft water formulation.

Ferro Enzyme Plus

Enzyme Plus is a natural, liquid enzyme preparation containing a variety of enzymes. These enzymes ensure that old root remains decay, defending plants against pathogens. Enzyme Plus also contains vitamins that promote root growth and increase root absorption capacity.

In nature, plants regulate their own soil environment, optimising it with the help of a well-developed micro-life. The microorganisms produce enzymes, which cause dead parts of the plant to decompose faster. As such microorganisms are not present in the substrate (or are only present in small quantities), the enzymes required are not produced.

Ferro’s Enzyme Plus provides the solution.The enzymes contained in Ferro Enzyme Plus increase the extent to and speed with which dead sections of the plant (such as roots) are broken down, forming nutrients that can then be absorbed once again. The decaying process using Enzyme Plus does not use up any oxygen, which means that the plant is able to absorb enough of it during the night to ‘burn’ the sugars accumulated during the day.

This enzymatic preparation ensures that nutrient salts remain in the solution, making it easier for plants to absorb them.

Canna Mono Phosphorous

If your plants are suffering from a deficiency problem, this may be the answer. Mononutrients are essential for plant development. CANNA Mono Phosphorus helps with flowering. This can be used with CANNA nutrients or any other nutrient range.

Bushdoctor Kelp Me to Kelp You

Seaweed Plant Food!

Kelp grows higher than even some of the Earth’s trees. The teeming aquatic life that flourishes in a kelp bed has just as much diversity as that of a rainforest.

Kelp Me Kelp You® is a seaweed plant food derived from Ascophyllum nodosum and designed for use in organic gardening.

This product is a liquid concentrate that can be used for growing fruits, vegetables, gardens or flowers.

Suitable for use in gardens, drip-irrigation systems or hydroponic applications

What nutrients to add and when to add them.....

Wed, 23 Apr 2025 11:11:29 GMT

In hydroponics, nutrients are essential at every stage of plant growth but the type and concentration of nutrients vary depending on the growth stage.

Here's a breakdown:..

1. Seedling Stage (0–2 weeks)

Nutrient strength: 25–50% of full strength.
Focus: Root development and gentle growth.
Nutrient mix: High in phosphorus (P) for roots, moderate nitrogen (N), low potassium (K).

Use a seedling or clone nutrient formula

2. Vegetative Stage

Nutrient strength: 75–100% of full strength.
Focus: Leaf and stem growth.
Nutrient mix: High nitrogen (N), moderate phosphorus (P), moderate potassium (K).

Often labeled “Grow” formula.

3. Flowering/Fruiting Stage

Nutrient strength: Full strength (unless you're seeing nutrient burn*).
Focus: Flower/fruit production.
Nutrient mix: Low nitrogen (N), high phosphorus (P), high potassium (K).

Use a “Bloom” formula.

4. Flush Stage (last 1–2 weeks before harvest)

No nutrients.
Only use pH-balanced water to remove excess salts and improve final flavour and quality.

We supply plenty of different types of nutrient and it is best to stay with one specific brand throughout all of the growth stages.

Let us know about your growth ambitions and we can recommend the exact nutrient mixes and schedules!

Hydroponics and Water - FAQ's

Wed, 02 Apr 2025 12:35:46 GMT

Importance and Purity

The Importance of Water Quality

Many water suppliers can provide an overview of your water quality by simply entering your postcode, an example being this link for Thames Water

Examples of serious potential problems are with hard water that contains excessive magnesium and calcium.

Plants require a certain amount of these elements but too much is like a person having too much of a certain thing and can hinder their ability to uptake the other nutrients that they need.

Using purified water or an additive such as Hardwater FloraMicra can help to alleviate this problem.

Where do they get their oxygen?

In a properly functioning hydroponic unit, the roots receive oxygen from the air, which surrounds them, as well as from the oxygen, which is dissolved in the nutrient solution. The proper medium can play an important role in this process.

Chlorination

Chlorine is highly volatile; it evaporates as soon as it hits the air. By the time the nutrient solution reaches the roots, the chlorine is gone.

Water temperature

The ideal temperature of the water in a hydroponics system is between 18 and 26 degrees centigrade.

Before adding fresh water to the reservoir you could allow it to reach the same temperature as the environment the setup is in.

Plants do not respond well to rapid changes in temperature and it will especially affect them when this happens in the root zone.

In the winter it is a wise idea to use an aqaurium heater and to be prepared for any high temperatures through the summer a chiller is a useful addition to the system.

Using Advanced Nutrients for Indoor Hydroponics

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 05 Mar 2025 12:42:15 GMT

All the nutrients as well as the pH control

Using Advanced Nutrients for indoor hydroponics can be a great choice, as the company offers a variety of products designed to optimize plant growth in hydroponic systems. They specialize in providing nutrients that help plants thrive by offering all the essential elements they need for healthy growth.

Here’s a basic guide on how to use Advanced Nutrients for hydroponic systems:

1. Choose the Right Nutrient Line

Advanced Nutrients offers several product lines for different stages of growth:

Grow, Micro, Bloom (GMB) : This is their most popular base nutrient formula, perfect for all stages of plant growth. It provides the essential nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) as well as micro-nutrients needed for optimal growth.
B-52 : A plant growth enhancer designed to improve the overall health of your plants.
Big Bud : Ideal for the flowering phase, it promotes larger and denser buds.
Bud Igniter : Used to jumpstart the flowering phase by increasing the production of flowers.
Overdrive : A bloom booster that helps maximize the final stages of flowering.
Voodoo Juice : A root enhancer that promotes robust root growth.

2. Understand the Nutrient Schedule

Advanced Nutrients has a feeding schedule you can follow to ensure your plants get the right nutrients at the right time.

This schedule takes into account different stages of growth:

Vegetative Stage : During this phase, plants need more nitrogen for leaf and stem growth.
Flowering Stage : Plants require more phosphorus and potassium to support bud development.

Advanced Nutrients offers a detailed feeding chart specific to each product, which can guide you on how much to add during each stage. Keep in mind that hydroponic systems require regular monitoring of nutrient levels (EC/PPM) and pH, so adjusting the strength of your nutrient solution is important.

3. pH Control

One of the advantages of Advanced Nutrients is that their products often include pH perfect technology , which helps stabilize pH levels in the nutrient solution. Maintaining the right pH (usually between 5.5 and 6.5 for hydroponics) is crucial for nutrient uptake. With pH perfect technology, you’ll spend less time adjusting pH levels manually.

4. Monitoring and Adjustments

PPM/EC : Regularly check the parts per million (PPM) or electrical conductivity (EC) of your nutrient solution to ensure it is in the optimal range. For general hydroponics, aim for a PPM around 600-800 for young plants, 1000-1400 for mature plants, and up to 1600 during flowering.
pH Levels : If your hydroponic system doesn’t use pH perfect technology, you’ll need to monitor and adjust pH frequently. Ideal pH is between 5.5 and 6.5.

5. Common Mistakes to Avoid

Overfeeding : Too many nutrients can burn your plants, so always follow the recommended guidelines, especially during the early stages.
Underfeeding : Not providing enough nutrients can result in slow or stunted growth. Ensure your plants are getting enough of each element.
Improper pH : Even with pH perfect products, it’s still good practice to occasionally check your pH levels to ensure they’re within the ideal range for nutrient uptake.

6. Supplementing with Additives

Depending on your crop and growth stage, you might want to supplement your nutrient regimen with additional Advanced Nutrients additives:

Cal-Mag : For calcium and magnesium supplementation.
Fulvic Acid : Enhances nutrient uptake.
Humic Acid : Supports soil and root health.
Silica : Strengthens cell walls and provides support for plants during flowering.

7. Flush Before Harvest

If you’re nearing the end of the growth cycle and want to avoid nutrient build-up in your plants, it’s good practice to flush your system with clean water for about a week before harvesting. This will ensure your plants aren’t overly saturated with salts or nutrients that could affect taste or quality.

By following these guidelines and using the appropriate Advanced Nutrients products, you should be able to maximize your indoor hydroponic plant growth effectively. Always read the instructions provided by the manufacturer, as they offer a lot of specifics for each product.

If you're new to hydroponics or Advanced Nutrients, it's always a good idea to start with their basic feeding schedule and gradually experiment as you become more familiar with your system.

Give us a call anytime for a few tips and hints!

The Elements for Strong Plant Growth

Wed, 19 Feb 2025 11:09:02 GMT

Getting the Correct Ratio....

Hydroponic systems rely on a balanced nutrient solution to ensure healthy plant growth, as the plants don’t have access to soil. These nutrients are typically dissolved in water and delivered to the plants' roots. The essential nutrients for hydroponic plant growth can be divided into macronutrients and micronutrients:

Macronutrients (required in larger quantities):

Nitrogen (N) – Crucial for leaf and stem growth, it promotes photosynthesis.
Phosphorus (P) – Vital for root development, flower and fruit formation, and energy transfer.
Potassium (K) – Supports overall plant health, promotes strong cell walls, water regulation, and stress resistance.
Calcium (Ca) – Important for cell wall structure and cell division. It helps with nutrient uptake and transport.
Magnesium (Mg) – A central component of chlorophyll; important for photosynthesis and enzyme activation.
Sulphur (S) – Essential for protein synthesis and the production of vitamins.

Micronutrients (required in smaller quantities):

Iron (Fe) – Key for chlorophyll production and overall plant metabolism.
Manganese (Mn) – Aids in photosynthesis, nitrogen assimilation, and the synthesis of some enzymes.
Zinc (Zn) – Important for enzyme function, hormone regulation, and protein synthesis.
Copper (Cu) – Necessary for photosynthesis, respiration, and lignin synthesis.
Boron (B) – Involved in cell wall formation, seed and fruit development, and nutrient movement.
Molybdenum (Mo) – Required for nitrogen fixation and protein synthesis.
Chlorine (Cl) – Helps with osmosis and cell division.

pH Level:

The pH of the hydroponic solution is also important, as it affects nutrient availability. The optimal pH range for most hydroponic plants is between 5.5 and 6.5.

Nutrient Delivery:

Nutrients are typically mixed in water and delivered via systems like nutrient film technique (NFT), deep water culture (DWC), or aeroponics. Adjusting the nutrient concentration, known as the EC (Electrical Conductivity), is also critical for preventing over or under-fertilizing.

By monitoring and adjusting the nutrient levels, pH, and EC, plants can grow successfully in a hydroponic system.

Keeo your plants warm and snug!

Wed, 12 Feb 2025 11:00:16 GMT

The ideal temperature is between 18-24°C

Keeping your hydroponics tent warm is important for maintaining optimal growth conditions for your plants. Here are some strategies you can use:

Use a Heater:

Small space heater: A reliable space heater is one of the most common ways to heat up a hydroponics tent. Make sure it's designed for small, enclosed spaces to avoid overheating. You can use a fan heater or a ceramic heater that has a thermostat to control the temperature.

Infrared heater:

This type of heater can warm the plants and surfaces directly, which can help avoid heating the air too much.

Temperature Controller:

A temperature controller or thermostat can help maintain a consistent temperature. It can be connected to your heater and will automatically turn it on or off based on the set temperature.

Insulation:

Make sure your hydroponics tent is well-insulated. The thicker the fabric, the more it can trap heat. You can also add reflective material inside the tent to help keep the warmth in.

Insulating the bottom and sides of the tent can prevent heat from escaping through the floor, especially if the tent is on a cold surface.

Use Grow Lights with Heat:

LED grow lights generate less heat, but HPS (High Pressure Sodium) lights or MH (Metal Halide) lights give off more heat, which can help warm the tent. Just be cautious not to overheat, as it could affect plant health.

Heating Mats:

Seedling heat mats or propagation mats placed under your hydroponic containers or trays can keep the root zone warm. This can be especially helpful in cooler climates.

Air Circulation:

Fans can help distribute warm air throughout the tent. Use an oscillating fan to avoid hot spots and ensure even temperature distribution. Proper airflow can help regulate humidity as well, which is important for plant health.

Monitor Temperature and Humidity:

Keep track of the temperature inside the tent using a thermometer. The ideal temperature for most hydroponic plants ranges between 65-75°F (18-24°C) during the day. Nights can be a little cooler, but it should not drop below 60°F (15°C).

Humidity is also important—too high or too low can affect your plants, so make sure to keep it within a balanced range (usually 40-60%).

Use a Humidifier:

If your room is too dry, adding a humidifier can help stabilize the environment. Moist air tends to hold heat better than dry air, helping to maintain warmth inside the tent.

Close the Tent Properly:

Keep your tent zipped up when it's not in use to avoid heat loss. However, allow for proper ventilation to prevent excess humidity buildup.

By combining some of these methods, you can maintain a warm and stable environment for your hydroponics system.

Pest Control in a Hydroponics System

Wed, 05 Feb 2025 12:07:53 GMT

Check out the various methods to prevent or control them!

In a hydroponic system, managing pests is crucial to maintaining a healthy, thriving environment for plants. Since hydroponics eliminates soil, which typically harbours pests, it can reduce the likelihood of certain insects, but there are still several strategies to control pests that can still affect the plants, water, or grow medium.

Here are some effective methods for pest control in hydroponics:

1. Preventive Measures

Quarantine New Plants: Before introducing any new plants into your hydroponic system, keep them isolated for a week or two to ensure they’re not carrying pests or diseases.

Maintain Cleanliness: Regularly clean and sanitise all equipment, such as trays, reservoirs, pumps, and pipes. Preventative cleanliness can drastically reduce pest buildup.

Environmental Control: Keep humidity levels and temperatures within the optimal range for your plants. Extreme conditions (too high or too low) can stress plants and make them more susceptible to pests.

Use Screens and Mesh: Prevent pests from entering your grow area by using mesh screens around vents, windows, and openings in the growing area.

2. Natural Pest Control

Beneficial Insects: Introduce natural predators, like ladybugs, predatory mites, or nematodes, to keep pests like aphids, spider mites, and thrips in check.

Neem Oil: A natural pesticide, neem oil is safe for plants but effective against a wide range of pests, including aphids, whiteflies, and mealybugs. It also works as a fungicide.

Diatomaceous Earth: This powder, made of fossilized aquatic organisms, is harmless to plants but deadly to insects with exoskeletons, like ants, mealybugs, and thrips.

Insecticidal Soap: This is effective for soft-bodied insects like aphids and spider mites. It’s non-toxic and safe for plants when used properly.

3. Cultural Practices

Pruning and Removal: Regularly inspect plants for pest activity. Prune infected areas or leaves to reduce the spread of pests.

Avoid Overcrowding: Overcrowded plants are more likely to develop pest problems because it provides a more favorable environment for pest growth. Proper spacing helps with air circulation and reduces humidity.

Adjust Light Intensity: Pests like spider mites thrive in the heat. By managing the light intensity and the temperature in your grow room, you can make the environment less inviting for pests.

4. Chemical Control (When Necessary)

Hydrogen Peroxide: A mild solution of hydrogen peroxide in water (usually 3% diluted with water) can help sterilize your hydroponic system, killing pathogens and pests. It’s non-toxic to plants when used in moderation.

Pesticide Applications: As a last resort, if an infestation becomes severe, you can use chemical pesticides, but you must choose ones that are safe for hydroponics and use them sparingly. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid using pesticides that could harm your water or plants.

5. Monitoring and Early Detection

Regular Inspections: Set aside time daily or weekly to check plants for signs of pests, such as discoloured or damaged leaves, sticky residue (from aphids), or webbing (from spider mites).

Yellow Sticky Traps: These can catch flying insects like whiteflies or fungus gnats and help monitor pest levels. This also helps prevent large outbreaks.

By combining preventive, biological, and cultural pest control methods, you can effectively manage pests in a hydroponic system without compromising plant health.

The Importance of Nutrients in a Hydroponic System

brockneyc@gmail.com (Emporium Hydroponics ) — Wed, 22 Jan 2025 14:09:30 GMT

Macronutrients, Micronutrients and A+B

Hydroponic plant growth nutrients are specially formulated solutions that provide the essential nutrients for plants grown without soil, typically in water-based systems. In a hydroponic setup, plants rely on these nutrient solutions to supply everything they need for growth. The nutrients generally consist of macronutrients (for large amounts) and micronutrients (in smaller amounts).

Here’s an overview of the essential nutrients and how they are used in hydroponic systems:

1. Macronutrients:

These are needed in larger quantities and are critical for plant growth.

Nitrogen (N): Vital for leafy growth, nitrogen is part of amino acids and proteins.
Phosphorus (P): Important for root development, flowering, and energy transfer in plants.
Potassium (K): Regulates water uptake, enzyme activation, and photosynthesis.
Calcium (Ca): Important for cell wall structure and root development.
Magnesium (Mg): Central component of chlorophyll, essential for photosynthesis.
Sulphur (S): Important for protein synthesis and enzyme function.

2. Micronutrients:

These are needed in trace amounts but are still essential for plant health.

Iron (Fe): Vital for chlorophyll synthesis and electron transport.
Manganese (Mn): Involved in photosynthesis and enzyme activation.
Zinc (Zn): Important for enzyme function and growth regulation.
Copper (Cu): Involved in photosynthesis and lignin formation.
Boron (B): Essential for cell wall formation and reproductive growth.
Molybdenum (Mo): Important for nitrogen metabolism.
Chlorine (Cl): Plays a role in osmoregulation and photosynthesis.

3. Hydroponic Nutrient Solutions:

Hydroponic systems require nutrient solutions that are specifically formulated to provide these essential elements in a balanced ratio. Typically, nutrient solutions are sold in two parts:

Part A: Contains essential nutrients like calcium and magnesium.
Part B: Contains the remaining macronutrients and micronutrients.

The concentrations and composition of the solution should be adjusted based on the growth stage of the plant (e.g., vegetative vs. flowering).

How to Use Hydroponic Nutrients:

Dilution: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on how to dilute the nutrients. Over-concentrating can lead to nutrient burn, while under-concentrating can result in poor plant growth.
pH Level: It is critical to maintain the proper pH (typically between 5.5 and 6.5) to ensure that the nutrients are available to the plants.
EC (Electrical Conductivity): This measures the concentration of dissolved salts (nutrients) in the solution. The ideal EC level will vary depending on the plant type and growth stage.
Water Quality: Ensure that your water source is free of chlorine or chloramine, which can harm plants. You can use a water filter or let the water sit for 24 hours to allow chlorine to dissipate.

By carefully managing the nutrient mix, pH, and water quality, you can create an optimal environment for plant growth in a hydroponic system.

How to Set Up a Grow Tent

Wed, 15 Jan 2025 14:55:36 GMT

A simple step-by-step guide to get things growing!

Setting up a hydroponic grow tent involves several steps to ensure the optimal environment for plant growth. Here's a comprehensive guide to help you set up your own hydroponic grow tent:

1. Choose the Right Location

Space : Select a room or area with ample space for your tent and easy access to power, water, and ventilation.
Accessibility : Ensure that the location has a stable temperature and humidity level. Avoid placing the tent in areas with extreme temperatures or direct sunlight.
Floor : Make sure the floor can handle water spills (consider a tarp or waterproof mat if needed).

2. Select a Grow Tent

Size : Choose a tent that fits your available space and can accommodate the plants you plan to grow. Popular sizes for hydroponics are 100x100x200cm and 200x200x200cm
Material : Ensure the tent is made of durable, lightproof, and reflective material (such as Mylar) to maximize the effectiveness of your grow lights.

3. Install the Grow Tent

Assemble the Tent : Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for setting up the frame and attaching the tent’s fabric.
Ventilation : Install intake and exhaust ports. You’ll need to have a way to bring in fresh air (intake) and expel hot air (exhaust) to maintain airflow and temperature.

4. Set Up the Hydroponic System

There are various types of hydroponic systems to choose from, including:

Deep Water Culture (DWC) : Plants' roots are submerged in a nutrient solution.
Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) : A thin film of nutrient solution is circulated over plant roots.
Ebb and Flow (Flood and Drain) : The growing medium is periodically flooded with nutrient solution and then drained.
Wick System : Nutrients are drawn up into the growing medium by capillary action.

Steps for setting up the system:

Position the hydroponic system (e.g., containers, grow trays, or channels) inside the tent.
Connect the pump, reservoir, and plumbing according to the type of system you're using.
Fill the system with a nutrient solution that provides the necessary nutrients for plant growth.
Ensure proper drainage to avoid waterlogging or stagnant water in your system.

5. Install Grow Lights

Type of Light : Choose appropriate grow lights for your plants. Common options include LED grow lights, fluorescent lights, or high-intensity discharge (HID) lights.
Light Placement : Hang the grow lights using adjustable ratchet hangers so you can easily adjust their height as plants grow.
Light Cycle : Set the lights to a timer (usually 18 hours on/6 hours off for vegetative growth, and 12 hours on/12 hours off for flowering).

6. Set Up Ventilation and Air Circulation

Exhaust Fan : Install an exhaust fan to remove hot air from the tent. The fan should be strong enough to exchange air within the tent every 1-3 minutes.
Carbon Filter : If odor control is needed, install a carbon filter on the exhaust fan to remove smells from the air.
Intake Fan : If you don’t have passive intake, consider an intake fan to bring fresh air into the tent.
Oscillating Fans : Place one or two oscillating fans inside the tent to help with air circulation and prevent mould.

7. Maintain Temperature and Humidity

Temperature : The ideal temperature for most hydroponic plants is around 70-75°F (21-24°C) during the day and slightly cooler at night.
Humidity : Keep humidity levels between 50-70%, depending on the plant stage. Humidity can be controlled with a humidifier or dehumidifier if necessary.

8. Monitor pH and Nutrient Levels

pH Meter : Keep track of the pH levels of your nutrient solution, which should typically be between 5.5 and 6.5 for most hydroponic plants.
EC Meter : Measure the electrical conductivity (EC) of your solution to monitor the concentration of dissolved nutrients.

9. Plant and Care for Your Crops

Plant Seeds or Seedlings : Start with seeds or buy seedlings. Place them in the grow medium or net pots.
Nutrient Solution : Regularly check the nutrient solution and replenish as necessary, adjusting the concentration as plants grow.
Prune and Train : Prune your plants to remove any dead growth and help them grow efficiently. Training techniques like topping and low-stress training (LST) can also improve yields.

10. Monitor and Adjust the Environment

Regularly check the lights, air circulation, temperature, humidity, nutrient levels, and pH to ensure your plants are getting everything they need.
Adjust these factors as needed based on plant growth stages (vegetative or flowering).

Additional Tips:

Cleanliness : Keep the grow tent clean to prevent pests and disease.
Water Quality : Use filtered or distilled water to avoid mineral build-up in your hydroponic system.

By following these steps, you should be able to create an effective and productive hydroponic grow tent that provides the ideal conditions for your plants to thrive.

It's all about the Roots

Wed, 19 Jun 2024 12:04:11 GMT

In plants, roots are organs that anchor the plant in the ground and absorb water and nutrients from the soil. They are typically found underground and are usually not visible above the ground. Roots can be specialized for different functions, such as storage of nutrients, support, or reproduction. Some plants have deep roots that reach down into the soil to access water and nutrients, while others have shallow roots that grow close to the surface. The root system of a plant plays an important role in the overall health and growth of the plant.

Main functions of roots.

The main function of plant roots is to anchor the plant in the ground and absorb water and nutrients from the soil. Roots also provide support for the plant, helping it to remain upright and stable. In addition to these primary functions, roots can also perform a number of other important tasks. For example, some roots are specialized for storage of nutrients, such as carbohydrates, which the plant can use for energy during times of stress or dormancy. Other roots are adapted for reproductive purposes, such as the production of seeds or spores. Overall, the root system of a plant plays a vital role in the overall health and growth of the plant.

How roots are formed

Plant roots are formed from cells in the root meristem, which is a small group of actively dividing cells located near the tip of the root. As the plant grows, cells in the root meristem differentiate into different types of root tissue, such as root hairs, vascular tissue, and cortex. The arrangement of these tissues helps the root to absorb water and nutrients from the soil and transport them to other parts of the plant.

Root growth begins when a seed germinates and a small root, called the radicle, emerges from the seed. As the radicle grows, it begins to produce lateral roots, which branch off from the main root and grow in different di-rections. The root system of a plant can continue to grow and develop throughout the plant’s life, adapting to the availability of resources in the soil and the plant’s changing needs.

For how long do roots grow?

Roots will continue to grow as long as the plant is alive and healthy. In some plants, the root system can contin-ue to develop and expand throughout the plant’s lifetime, adapting to the availability of resources in the soil and the plant’s changing needs. For example, a tree may have a deep, extensive root system that grows over time to support its increasing size and weight. Other plants, such as annuals, may have a more shallow and less extensive root system that grows for a single season before the plant dies.

The rate of root growth can vary depending on a number of factors, including the species of plant, the age of the plant, and the availability of water and nutrients in the soil. In general, roots tend to grow more quickly in warm, moist conditions, and more slowly in cold, dry conditions. Some plants, such as root vegetables like carrots and turnips, are specifically grown for their edible roots, which can be harvested when they reach a certain size.

Repotting

Repotting a plant can be a delicate process, particularly if you want to focus on the roots. Here are some gen-eral guidelines for repotting plants and focusing on their roots:

Water the plant thoroughly a few days before repotting to make it easier to remove from its current pot.
Gently remove the plant from its pot, being careful not to damage the roots. If the plant is particularly large or difficult to remove, you may need to use a knife to carefully loosen the root ball.
Inspect the roots to see if they are crowded or damaged. If the roots are tightly packed or appear to be struggling, you may need to gently loosen them before repotting.
Choose a new pot that is slightly larger than the old one, with drainage holes in the bottom. Fill the pot with fresh potting soil.
Place the plant in the new pot, being careful to spread the roots out evenly. Add more soil as needed to cover the roots.
Water the plant well to help settle the soil and encourage the roots to grow.
Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, and place the plant in a location with the appropriate amount of light and temperature for its needs.

By following these steps, you can carefully repot your plant and focus on its roots to ensure that it has the best chance of thriving in its new pot.

Important things to keep roots healthy

Here are some tips for keeping your plant’s roots healthy:

Use the right soil: Choose a potting soil that is well-draining and appropriate for the type of plant you are growing. Overly wet or poorly draining soil can lead to root rot, while soil that is too dry or nutrient-poor can stunt root growth.
Water regularly: Water your plant regularly, but be sure to avoid over-watering. Too much water can lead to root rot, while not enough water can cause the plant to become stressed and its roots to dry out.
Provide adequate drainage: Make sure your plant’s pot has drainage holes to allow excess water to drain away from the roots. Standing water around the roots can lead to root rot.
Fertilize as needed: Use a balanced fertilizer to provide your plant with the nutrients it needs to grow and stay healthy. Follow the instructions on the label for the appropriate amount and frequency of fer-tilization.
Prune roots as needed: If your plant’s roots become overcrowded, you may need to prune them to al-low the plant to continue growing properly. Be sure to use a clean, sharp tool and handle the roots gen-tly to avoid damaging them.
Provide the plant additional nutrients. This makes sure that your plant has access to all the essential nutrients it needs and, most important, in the right amounts.

What happens when roots are unhealthy?

If a plant’s roots are unhealthy, it can affect the overall health of the plant. Some possible consequences of un-healthy roots include:

Stunted growth: Unhealthy roots may be unable to absorb the water and nutrients that the plant needs to grow and thrive. As a result, the plant may grow more slowly or stop growing altogether.
Poor flowering or fruiting: Plants that are struggling due to unhealthy roots may also have poor flower-ing or fruiting. This is because the plant may not have the energy or resources it needs to produce flow-ers or fruit.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases: Unhealthy plants may be more vulnerable to pests and diseases, as their immune systems may be weakened.
Plant death: In severe cases, unhealthy roots can cause a plant to die. This may be due to a lack of wa-ter and nutrients, or to root rot or other root-related issues.

By taking good care of your plant’s roots, you can help ensure that it remains healthy and vigorous.

How to prevent unhealthy roots?

One way to prevent unhealthy roots is to ensure that your plant is getting the right amount of water.

In short, research your plant’s needs and make sure you follow that information. Not all plants need the same amount of water or sunlight.

How can I check the root system of my plant?

Carefully remove the plant from its pot: One way to check the root system of your plant is to carefully remove it from its pot. Be sure to handle the plant gently and try not to disturb the roots too much. Once you have removed the plant from the pot, you can examine the roots to see if they are healthy and growing properly.
Check for root growth through the drainage holes: If you don’t want to disturb the plant by removing it from its pot, you can check for root growth by looking through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. This can give you a good idea of the overall health and size of the root system.
Use a transparent pot: Another option is to use a transparent pot when planting your plant. This will al-low you to see the roots as they grow, without disturbing the plant by removing it from its pot.
By using one of these methods, you can get a good idea of the health and growth of your plant’s root system. This can help you determine if the plant is getting the water and nutrients it needs, and whether it may be time to repot the plant into a larger pot.

Extra Tips & Tricks

Here are 10 additional tips for taking care of your plant’s roots:

Choose the right pot size: It’s important to use a pot that is the appropriate size for your plant. A pot that is too small can lead to overcrowded roots, while a pot that is too large can result in excess water and soil that stays too wet, which can lead to root rot.
Avoid over-fertilizing: While it’s important to provide your plant with the nutrients it needs to grow, over-fertilizing can lead to excessive foliage growth at the expense of root growth.
Use a potting mix specifically formulated for the type of plant you are growing: Different plants have different soil requirements. Using a potting mix that is specifically formulated for the type of plant you are growing can help ensure that the plant’s roots have access to the right nutrients and moisture.
Don’t let the plant sit in standing water: Be sure to drain any excess water from the pot after watering, as letting the plant sit in standing water can lead to root rot.
Avoid planting too deeply: When planting your plant, be sure to follow the recommended planting depth and avoid planting too deeply. If the plant is planted too deeply, it can lead to a reduced root sys-tem and reduced plant growth.
Provide adequate light: Adequate light is important for plant growth, including root growth. Make sure your plant is getting the right amount of light for its needs.
Don’t let the plant dry out: Allowing your plant to dry out can stress the plant and damage the roots. Be sure to water the plant regularly, but avoid over-watering.
Avoid using pesticides near the roots: Pesticides can be harmful to plant roots, so be sure to use them sparingly and avoid applying them near the roots.
Don’t let the plant become root-bound: If your plant becomes root-bound, meaning that the roots have become crowded and tangled in the pot, it can be difficult for the plant to absorb water and nutrients. Repot the plant into a larger pot if necessary to allow the roots room to grow.
Use mulch: Mulching around your plant can help to conserve moisture in the soil and keep the roots cool, which can be beneficial for plant growth. Just be sure to keep the mulch a few inches away from the base of the plant to prevent excess moisture from accumulating around the roots.

pH and EC Levels

Wed, 05 Jun 2024 12:13:22 GMT

The relative importance in Hydroponics

What is pH?

pH gives an indication of the potential hydrogen within a substance which defines how acidic it is. Being measured on a scale from 0-14, a level of zero is the most acidic and 7 is neutral. Pure water has a pH of 7 and levels above this are alkaline.

Knowing the pH of a nutrient solution can help to suggest whether or not more nutrients need to be added.

Suggested levels of pH

Different plants thrive at different pH levels and for most plants the optimal level is between 5.5 and 6.5. To keep the system at the best levels it is important to monitor this so that the necessary adjustments can be made. A pH meter is great for this or simply pH paper. The pH meter is best for giving accurate readings and provided the power is charged up it wont run out like the paper will!

To keep the pH at the correct level, an acidic substance such is phosphoric acid or vinegar will bring it down if the levels are too high. Certain nutrients that contain elements such as potassium or calcium can increase the pH which means it is essential to regularly measure the pH. As the plant uptakes the nutrients the pH will differ.

Definition of EC

EC is an abbreviation for electrical conductivity. The concentration of salts that are dissolved in a nutrient solution will effectively define this and it is measured in mS/cm which is millisiemens per centimetre. If the concentration of nutrients within the solution is controlled then the EC will be at the ideal levels.

The stage of growth that a plant is at will define the ideal EC level which typically falls between 0.8 and 2.5 mS/cm. If the EC level is too low then your plants will not receive enough nutrients to grow and develop well. On the contrary, if the EC levels are too high then the level of nutrients received by the plants will become toxic.

Regularly testing the nutrient solution with an EC meter will help to keep the ideal nutrient concentration for good healthy growth.

Dealing with high EC levels

The EC level is the overall electrical conductivity of the soultion and does not specifically indicate the level of each nutrient within the solution. If the EC level is too low then adding more nutrients will increase it. When the level is too low it will not immediately damage the plants but it will slow down their development.

If the level is too high then adding more water to the solution will reduce it.

Because the EC gives the overall electrical conductivity of the solution it will not indicate an overload or deficiency of a specific nutrient so if similar problems continually occur then it can be worth emptying the nutrient solution and starting afresh.

Conclusion

A flourishing system certainly depends on the pH and EC of the nutrient solution.

The pH level should be between 5.5 and 6.5 for most plants

The EC level should be between 0.8 and 2.5 mS/cm for most plants.

Keep a regular check on these and adjust the nutrient levels as and when required.

Some examples of the ideal levels are given below....

The Best Pest Control

Wed, 17 Apr 2024 14:00:46 GMT

Spot Them and Deal With Them!

It’s been an unusually wet start to the year in the UK. There were flash floods and fluctuating temperatures well into April.

This certainly meant that (through Spring at least) growers were pestered by pests. As Summer is around the corner and it’s starting to get warmer, they will surely be still making an appearance!

Dealing with growroom and greenhouse pests can be overwhelming. If an infestation gets really nasty, crop damage can be severe. Many pests target young, fresh growth – buds and shoots – so the potential for damage in terms of yield cannot be overstated.

The best advice we can offer growers is this: don’t leave it a couple of days between noticing any of these pests, and then starting the treatment. Identifying and treating early is key! Pests reproduce really quickly – a female spider mite lays up to 20 eggs per day – so a few days really can be the difference between a small problem, and a full-blown infestation…

SPIDER MITES

These nasty little things really are a curse for indoor growers. They are fairly hard to see with the naked eye, until they start creating webs all over the backs of leaves.

But by the point that you’re noticing their webs, the infestation will be pretty bad already. Don’t let it get to that stage. Use a magnification device to spot them.

Spider mites love to hide in hard to see places, so make sure you’re checking under the leaves and around the nodes of newly developing leaves, as those little cracks and crevasses could shield mites and their eggs.

Spider Mites love it when it’s hot and dry, so one of the key things to prevent an infestation is to watch that humidity level.

It’s important to remember that Spider Mites aren’t technically insects – which means regular insecticides won’t work! Choose a product specifically formulated to stop these tiny arachnids. Guard 'n' Aid Spidermite is a good one!

THRIPS

These tiny terrors are even harder to spot than Spider Mites. More likely you’ll notice their droppings (which look like black specks), or you’ll just notice the damage they’re doing to your plant’s leaves – leaving them blotchy, malformed, and covered in small silvery/grey spots on the leaf surface.

What’s worse is that thrips are even harder to spot when they are larvae – but this is when they are the most destructive.

Thrips are quite different at each stage of their lifecycle, so it’s important to use an all-round product that kills the eggs and larvae as well as the visible adult thrips. Guard 'n' Aid for Thrip is an insecticide specifically developed to kill thrips.

But as thrips and their larvae are so small, it can be easy to think you’ve sprayed them all… and be mistaken. You only need to miss a few for that infestation to come back. An adult female thrip can create up to 50 new thrips in their lifetime!

When you just can’t seem to get rid of them and they keep coming back, you need to treat your entire growing environment. Fumigation is a fantastic way to make sure that even awkward, difficult to reach places get a good dose of insecticide. A fumer like Fortefog Fumer is simple to set up and ideal for this purpose, however, if you go down the fumigation route, wait until you are between grows – otherwise you’ll end up with a room of dead plants as well as dead thrips.

APHIDS

Aphids can be incredibly destructive. Fortunately, they are a bit easier to spot – typically these little green or black insects form clusters – but you don’t want to waste any time treating the infestation once you’ve noticed them. They breed like wildfire and they’ll eat masses of leaves and buds in the process.

To top it off, because they’re so busy enjoying your plant’s sugars, these bugs excrete a sticky, sugary waste product which can attract dark mould.

Don’t let an aphid infestation take a foothold. Use a variety of strategies to get them gone.

Because these insects often form little clusters or clumps on plants, you can fairly easily see where you need to spray an insecticide. Guard 'n' Aid PestOff Plus works on contact with the bugs, so give them a good spray.

Check out our range of pest repellents by clicking this link

pH and Run Off

Wed, 27 Mar 2024 11:26:39 GMT

Why It’s Important to Test the pH of Your Run-Off

If you’ve recently noticed some leaf discoloration, mutation, or poor growth, it’s quite likely an inadequate pH range is the culprit behind these issues. pH is among the most important factors in the garden. But to understand it, we must first look at the basic biological functions of plants. In total, there are 16 essential elements that plants can absorb. These elements are divided into categories that contain nutrients that aim to support specific biological functions. However, to properly uptake these elements, plants must be fed within an adequate pH range. If you’re interested in learning more about the importance of testing your run-off, read the passages below.

What is pH?

Potential Hydrogen (pH) is a unit of measurement that describes the acidity or alkalinity of any given substance on a scale of 0-14, with 7 being neutral. In the field of gardening, however, pH is the main factor that dictates the uptake of nutrients in the root zone. Depending on the pH of your nutrient solution, your plants may uptake more or less of a specific element.

The pH Scale and Nutrient Uptake

For plants to remain healthy and happy, they must be fed within an ideal pH range . For most plants in peat moss or soil-based systems, this pH range falls anywhere between 6.0 – 6.5. This scale can be thought of as the “sweet spot” for nutrient uptake. At this level, plants can uptake essential macro elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, while also having access to important micronutrients that help ward off common deficiencies and lead to the faster and healthier development of new growth.

Buffering Your Nutrient Solution

To maximize the rate at which your plant uptakes available nutrients, attempt to buffer your nutrient solution in the ideal range before irrigating your crop. Most fertilizers (but not all) will hold an acidic pH value, meaning the ingredients incorporated within the fertilizer will lower the pH of water (pH 7.0) once mixed at the recommended rate. So, after mixing your nutrients, test the pH of your solution, and if necessary, buffer your fertilizer into the appropriate range (pH 6.0-6.5). Use pH Up to raise the pH value of your solution, and pH Down to lower it.

Issues with pH

A variety of issues can arise if plants are not fed at an adequate pH range. For example, if plants are fed at a highly acidic rate, they will be unable to uptake and absorb valuable nutrients. This can lead to medium acidification, nutrient lockout, deficiencies, and the buildup of salts. If you’ve noticed worrisome growth patterns, it’s quite likely your plants are experiencing one or more of these issues. Follow the steps below to test the pH of your run-off and remedy the problem.

How to Test Your Run-Off

To test the pH of your plant’s run-off, start by collecting a sample . Begin by watering your plants with plain, neutral water (with a pH of 7.0) until roughly 20% of the water runs out of the bottom of your container. Then, collect the run-off into a container and test the sample. Ideal pH ranges for run-off should be between 6.0 – 6.5 in soil/soilless mixes like peat moss. However, any pH close to this range will be acceptable. If you test your solution and the pH deviates more than 1.0 from the ideal range, it’s clear that your plants are outside acceptable ranges of nutrient uptake. Remember, plain water acts like a solvent that rinses and neutralizes excess acidity. So, any number you receive from your run-off test is likely higher than the real pH value.

How to Remedy pH Imbalances

For any pH value under 5.5, consider feeding your crop at higher pH levels, or, buffer your medium with pH neutralizing compounds like calcium carbonate, dolomite lime, or oyster shell flour. After amending your medium with a neutralizing agent, the pH of your root zone should become stable over the next few irrigation cycles. As you water your plants, the pH neutral properties of either lime or oyster shell flour will slowly dissolve into the soil, thus raising the pH gradually over time. Resume your regular feeding schedule at a reduced rate and continue to re-test the pH of your run-off. When stable, your plants will be able to absorb all the essential nutrients offered to them. Soon, new, healthier growth patterns will emerge, and nutrient deficiencies will no longer plague the development of your crop.

The Ultimate Guide to Your Roots!

Wed, 21 Feb 2024 12:55:14 GMT

In this article we will tell you and provide you with all the information you need about roots. This is the Ultimate Guide about Roots.

Main functions of roots.

How roots are formed

For how long do roots grow?

Repotting

Repotting a plant can be a delicate process, particularly if you want to focus on the roots. Here are some general guidelines for repotting plants and focusing on their roots:

Water the plant thoroughly a few days before repotting to make it easier to remove from its current pot.
Gently remove the plant from its pot, being careful not to damage the roots. If the plant is particularly large or difficult to remove, you may need to use a knife to carefully loosen the root ball.
Inspect the roots to see if they are crowded or damaged. If the roots are tightly packed or appear to be struggling, you may need to gently loosen them before repotting.
Choose a new pot that is slightly larger than the old one, with drainage holes in the bottom. Fill the pot with fresh potting soil.
Place the plant in the new pot, being careful to spread the roots out evenly. Add more soil as needed to cover the roots.
Water the plant well to help settle the soil and encourage the roots to grow.
Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, and place the plant in a location with the appropriate amount of light and temperature for its needs.

By following these steps, you can carefully repot your plant and focus on its roots to ensure that it has the best chance of thriving in its new pot.

Important things to keep roots healthy

Here are some tips for keeping your plant’s roots healthy:

Use the right soil: Choose a potting soil that is well-draining and appropriate for the type of plant you are growing. Overly wet or poorly draining soil can lead to root rot, while soil that is too dry or nutrient-poor can stunt root growth.
Water regularly: Water your plant regularly, but be sure to avoid over-watering. Too much water can lead to root rot, while not enough water can cause the plant to become stressed and its roots to dry out.
Provide adequate drainage: Make sure your plant’s pot has drainage holes to allow excess water to drain away from the roots. Standing water around the roots can lead to root rot.
Fertilize as needed: Use a balanced fertilizer to provide your plant with the nutrients it needs to grow and stay healthy. Follow the instructions on the label for the appropriate amount and frequency of fer-tilization.
Prune roots as needed: If your plant’s roots become overcrowded, you may need to prune them to al-low the plant to continue growing properly. Be sure to use a clean, sharp tool and handle the roots gen-tly to avoid damaging them.
Provide the plant additional nutrients. This makes sure that your plant has access to all the essential nutrients it needs and, most important, in the right amounts.

What happens when roots are unhealthy?

If a plant’s roots are unhealthy, it can affect the overall health of the plant. Some possible consequences of un-healthy roots include:

Stunted growth: Unhealthy roots may be unable to absorb the water and nutrients that the plant needs to grow and thrive. As a result, the plant may grow more slowly or stop growing altogether.
Poor flowering or fruiting: Plants that are struggling due to unhealthy roots may also have poor flower-ing or fruiting. This is because the plant may not have the energy or resources it needs to produce flow-ers or fruit.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases: Unhealthy plants may be more vulnerable to pests and diseases, as their immune systems may be weakened.
Plant death: In severe cases, unhealthy roots can cause a plant to die. This may be due to a lack of wa-ter and nutrients, or to root rot or other root-related issues.

By taking good care of your plant’s roots, you can help ensure that it remains healthy and vigorous.

How to prevent unhealthy roots?

One way to prevent unhealthy roots is to ensure that your plant is getting the right amount of water. Here’s a story to illustrate this point:

Anna loved her new houseplant, a beautiful fiddle leaf fig that she had placed in a sunny corner of her living room. She watered it every week, making sure to give it plenty of water so that the soil was always moist. However, after a few weeks, Anna noticed that the leaves of her fiddle leaf fig were starting to turn yellow and fall off.

Anna wasn’t sure what was going on, so she did some research and learned that fiddle leaf figs prefer well-draining soil and should only be watered when the top inch or so of soil is dry. She realized that she had been overwatering her plant, and the excess water was causing the roots to become waterlogged and eventually rot.

Anna quickly took action to correct the problem. She removed the plant from its pot and trimmed off any dis-eased or damaged roots. She then repotted the plant in fresh, well-draining soil and watered it only when the top inch of soil was dry. Within a few weeks, the leaves of Anna’s fiddle leaf fig began to return to their healthy, green color, and the plant was once again thriving.

By being mindful of the watering needs of her plant and taking action to correct the problem when she noticed something was wrong, Anna was able to prevent unhealthy roots and keep her fiddle leaf fig healthy.

In short, research your plant’s needs and make sure you follow that information. Not all plants need the same amount of water or sunlight.

How can I check the root system of my plant?

Carefully remove the plant from its pot: One way to check the root system of your plant is to carefully remove it from its pot. Be sure to handle the plant gently and try not to disturb the roots too much. Once you have removed the plant from the pot, you can examine the roots to see if they are healthy and growing properly.
Check for root growth through the drainage holes: If you don’t want to disturb the plant by removing it from its pot, you can check for root growth by looking through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. This can give you a good idea of the overall health and size of the root system.
Use a transparent pot: Another option is to use a transparent pot when planting your plant. This will al-low you to see the roots as they grow, without disturbing the plant by removing it from its pot.

By using one of these methods, you can get a good idea of the health and growth of your plant’s root system. This can help you determine if the plant is getting the water and nutrients it needs, and whether it may be time to repot the plant into a larger pot.

Extra Tips & Tricks

Here are 10 additional tips for taking care of your plant’s roots:

Choose the right pot size: It’s important to use a pot that is the appropriate size for your plant. A pot that is too small can lead to overcrowded roots, while a pot that is too large can result in excess water and soil that stays too wet, which can lead to root rot.
Avoid over-fertilizing: While it’s important to provide your plant with the nutrients it needs to grow, over-fertilizing can lead to excessive foliage growth at the expense of root growth.
Use a potting mix specifically formulated for the type of plant you are growing: Different plants have different soil requirements. Using a potting mix that is specifically formulated for the type of plant you are growing can help ensure that the plant’s roots have access to the right nutrients and moisture.
Don’t let the plant sit in standing water: Be sure to drain any excess water from the pot after watering, as letting the plant sit in standing water can lead to root rot.
Avoid planting too deeply: When planting your plant, be sure to follow the recommended planting depth and avoid planting too deeply. If the plant is planted too deeply, it can lead to a reduced root sys-tem and reduced plant growth.
Provide adequate light: Adequate light is important for plant growth, including root growth. Make sure your plant is getting the right amount of light for its needs.
Don’t let the plant dry out: Allowing your plant to dry out can stress the plant and damage the roots. Be sure to water the plant regularly, but avoid over-watering.
Avoid using pesticides near the roots: Pesticides can be harmful to plant roots, so be sure to use them sparingly and avoid applying them near the roots.
Don’t let the plant become root-bound: If your plant becomes root-bound, meaning that the roots have become crowded and tangled in the pot, it can be difficult for the plant to absorb water and nutrients. Repot the plant into a larger pot if necessary to allow the roots room to grow.
Use mulch: Mulching around your plant can help to conserve moisture in the soil and keep the roots cool, which can be beneficial for plant growth. Just be sure to keep the mulch a few inches away from the base of the plant to prevent excess moisture from accumulating around the roots.

Article shared courtesy of Dutchpro! Check out their great products by clicking here

How Not to start your Urban Garden

Wed, 31 Jan 2024 13:22:16 GMT

Are you excited to harvest your own fresh vegetables but not sure where to start?

While gardening can be a rewarding hobby, it can also be challenging, especially if you are new to it. Many novice – and experienced – gardeners make mistakes when starting or working on their urban gardens. Let’s see six mistakes you do NOT want to make when starting your urban garden.

From planning your garden to watering, there is a chance to fail while starting with your garden. But don’t worry… we have got you covered! Keep reading to learn how to get the most out of your urban garden and enjoy a bountiful harvest.

1. Not Planning Well Before Start

One of the biggest mistakes you can make is not planning your garden before starting. This includes budgeting, location, and following a vegetable calendar to sow and plant at the appropriate times. Before you start digging, take some time to plan out your garden to ensure that you’re getting the most out of your space.

2. Not Considering The Space And Location

This is another huge mistake and is one of the causes of failure in the attempt to have a productive garden. Urban gardens often have limited space, so try to make the most of what you have.

Whether working with a balcony, a small backyard, or a rooftop, choose plants that will thrive in your space and location. Keep in mind the orientation of your garden and the amount of sunlight available when choosing your plants.

Some Tips Are:

Take advantage of as much vertical space as you can. Hang planters on the balcony, on the wall of your vegetable garden, use growing tables or pots of various heights… be creative! Anything goes to maximize space.

Use square or rectangular pots. This may sound silly, but you will save a lot of space by being able to fit them next to each other.

Regarding orientation, south orientation receives the most hours of daylight (in the northern hemisphere). Whenever possible, try to place your garden in this orientation.

3. Not Choosing The Right Plants

Combine plants, optimize space!

It’s essential that you are realistic about the type and number of plants that will fit in your urban garden!

Pick varieties that will fit in the space available and consider the planting frames for each plant.

Growing climbing tomatoes and pumpkins is not the same as growing lettuce or onions. You could have enough room to cultivate three tomato plants, but it could mean a lot of tomatoes and nothing else…

Try this instead: grow two tomato plants together with some onions and carrots. The growth of the plants and their roots will occupy different spaces. And also, their needs are similar, so these vegetables will have adequate space and conditions to flourish together.

Such is known as companion planting, and it is ideal for increasing the output of a small garden.

Keep in mind the daylight hours! – Which plants don’t need that much light?

Vegetables will grow better and be more productive with more than 8 hours of sunlight but getting that amount of direct sunlight in urban areas is difficult. However, some plants and veggies can stand shade, and some will thrive in this condition! Sometimes it is just a matter of a little bit of experimenting, trial, and error.

Some of these forgiving vegetables that grow well without plenty of hours of direct sunlight are...

Leafy greens like kale or spinach

Root veggies like carrots, beetroot or radish

Beetroots, onions and carrots ready to harvest.

These are some of the plants that can grow well in partial shade according to BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine’s blog article “10 best vegetable crops for shade.”

Also, there are certain plants that you can grow in the shadiest corners of your garden, like mint, dill, or parsley . They will still need some sun but can grow in low-light conditions. By doing this, you will be maximizing your urban garden’s available area to the most extent.

4. Not Choosing A High Quality Substrate

Picking the best substrate is essential as the quality of the substrate may make or break your crop. But which kind of substrate should I pick?

The substrate should be well-aerated, well-drained, and rich in nutrients. Mixed peat substrates are preferable, as they will help to maintain good physical and chemical properties and be resilient to withstand successive harvests. Looking at our substrates, Janeco-Light-Mix (lightly fertilized) or Kilomix (heavily fertilized) will perform wonderfully for that purpose. Also, using slow-release organic fertilizers like Upgrade or Worm Delight is a great way to go. These organic fertilizers are improvers of the soil as they nourish the microorganisms as well as the plants, providing a healthy and vigorous root environment.

5. Not watering correctly

Proper watering is essential to the health of your plants!

Here are some tips:

Watering in bright sunshine can lead to evaporation and water loss. Watering in the evening can cause soil to get saturated for an extended time, attracting pests such as moulds, snails, and slugs. Instead, try watering your plants’ first thing in the morning.

6. Working Harder Instead Of Smarter

Finally, it’s important to work smart, not hard. Some tips are:

Take advantage of the vertical space by employing trellises, plant supports, or even vertical planters!
Growing green onions in a creative way to make use of vertical space by reusing water bottles.
Plant companion plants or associated crops. They are great not only for increasing crop output and variety but also for pest management and improving soil health.
Avoid overpopulation, but keep in mind that you can experiment with planting distances. A plant that requires 50 cm will not suffer too much if you give it 45 cm instead of 50 cm, but those 5 centimeters are crucial for you!
And last but not least, don’t throw away all your hard work because of unwelcome guests in your garden – keep an eye on your plants for signs of pests, birds, or other animals taking profit of the fruits before you can do it!

Conclusion

If you overcome these common mistakes, you will be on your way to a fruitful urban garden. Draw a good plan, pick the proper plants and substrate, and remember: work smarter, not harder!

It’s time to get your hands dirty in your urban garden. We hope you find this information useful, and surely with the right tools and knowledge, you’ll be pleased with a thriving garden in no time. Happy Gardening!

Hints & Tips shared courtesy of Atami , the Natural Innovators, and their great nutrients can be found here!

Tips & Tricks - Water Quality

Wed, 24 Jan 2024 13:42:00 GMT

Without water, nothing will grow!

How do you know if you have a water quality problem?

It can be very difficult to determine if a water quality issue is responsible for any plant growth problems which might be occurring. Many diseases and errors with nutrient management or incorrect environmental conditions will produce symptoms very similar to common water quality problems.

Ideally, obtaining a full water analysis is useful for most growers, however detecting other issues such as chemical or microbial contamination is more complex. The simplest method of determining if water quality is the cause of growth problems is to run a seedling trial – growing sensitive seedlings such as lettuce using RO or distilled water as the ‘control’ or comparison will usually show up any problems originating from the water supply.

Keeping all other factors such as nutrients, temperature and light the same between the plants in the different water samples and using a solution culture system will give the most accurate test. Comparing growth in the pure water to the suspected water sample will reveal any problems (if growth problems appear in both seedling treatment water samples, then something other than water quality is to blame).

Water quality problems may show as stunted roots which don’t expand downwards, short, brown roots, yellowing of the new leaves, stunted foliage growth, sunken brown spots on the foliage, leaf burn and even plant death.

What to do about suspected microbial contamination

Zoosporic pathogenic fungi such as Pythium and bacteria can survive in and be distributed by water6 . Water sources which may not have been treated and may contain disease pathogens such as ground, river or steam water can be relatively easily cleaned up by the grower before use.

The safest options are UV, ozone and slow sand filtration as these won’t leave chemical residues which may harm young, sensitive root systems.

Small UV treatment and filtration systems such as those used in fish ponds and aquariums are suitable for treating water for hydroponic use and will kill plant pathogens and algae. However these are best used for treating water only, not nutrient solutions as UV can make some nutrients unavailable for plant uptake.

What to do about other contaminates and treatment chemicals

Activated charcoal (slow) filters are still one of the more reliable and inexpensive ways of removing suspected contaminates from a water supply.

Herbicides, pesticides, chlorine, chloramines, and other chemicals are reduced to low levels by suitable activated charcoal filters and these can be used by small and large growers alike.

If chlorine alone is a problem, aerating the water for 48 hours by using a small air pump will dissipate this chemical.

Using substrate-based systems incorporating a media such as coco fibre will give a greater degree of protection and ‘buffering’ capacity where chemical contaminates are suspected.

What to do about excess minerals

Often it is possible to dilute a water supply which may have a slight excess in certain minerals, particularly trace elements, with a higher quality water source, however for water sources with a high natural salinity RESearch reverse osmosis or distillation are the only methods of demineralization.

Some crops such as tomatoes are far more tolerant of excess minerals and salinity than others such as lettuce, so this factor should be taken into account

What to do about ‘hard’ water with a high pH

Hard water is best treated with acid to lower the pH to 6.5 before adding any nutrients to make up the nutrient solution or before using the water to top up a nutrient reservoir. This will reduce the total amount of acid required in the system to keep pH under control. Hard water also contains minerals such as calcium and magnesium, so using a specific ‘hard water’ nutrient formulation or product in recirculating systems (like CANNA Hydro Hard Water) is advised, since these will keep nutrient ratios more in balance and also assist with keeping pH in check.

Article shared courtesy of CANNAtalk , the magazine for serious growers!

Help your grow tent to avoid the cold snap

Wed, 17 Jan 2024 13:46:37 GMT

Here are a few handy hints and tips....

The body content of your post goes here. To edit this text, click on it and delete this default text and start typing your own or paste your own from a different source.

Athena Blended Line Feed Schedules

Wed, 10 Jan 2024 13:46:38 GMT

For passionate cultivators, achieving optimal plant growth and development is a top priority. Just like humans need specific nutrients at different life stages, plants require unique care during their various growth phases. To assist our valued customers in nurturing their green companions, we provide a comprehensive feed schedule. This article aims to explain the significance of the feed chart and how it acts as a valuable guide to crafting the perfect recipe for plant success at different stages of growth.

A feed chart is a carefully crafted reference guide that outlines the nutrient requirements of plants during distinct stages of their life cycle. It serves as an invaluable resource for growers, enabling them to customize the nutrient composition based on the plants' specific needs at each phase. With this chart, you can confidently tailor your feeding regimen, ensuring your plants receive the precise nourishment they require to thrive.

The seedling/clone stage marks the delicate beginning of a plant's life. During this phase, plants require a balanced mix of nutrients to develop strong roots, healthy leaves, and robust stems. The feed chart will offer specific recommendations for the right nutrient ratio, ensuring your seedlings receive the best start.

As plants transition into the vegetative stage, their growth rate accelerates significantly. During this period, they primarily focus on developing foliage. Consequently, their nutrient requirements change. The feed chart will provide you with the precise combination of nutrients, including essential macronutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, to support vigorous leaf growth and overall plant development.

Once your plants reach the flowering stage, their needs transform yet again. During this critical phase, they demand a different nutrient profile to bolster flower production, enhance fragrance, and increase the potency of fruits or flowers. The feed chart will help you supply the right nutrients at the appropriate time, ensuring a bountiful and high-quality harvest.

It's important to remember that every plant is unique, and factors such as plant species, growing environment, and nutrient availability can impact their requirements. The feed chart acts as a foundation, but growers are encouraged to make adjustments and fine-tune the nutrient concentrations based on their specific observations. Regular monitoring and assessment of plant health will help you fine-tune your feed mix, maximizing the potential of your garden.

The use of a well-crafted feed chart is an indispensable tool. Understanding the nutrient needs of your plants at different growth stages empowers you to provide tailored care and nourishment, resulting in healthy, thriving greenery. By following our feed chart and monitoring your plants' progress closely, you will not only witness remarkable growth but also cultivate a deeper connection with the fascinating life of your botanical companions.

Taking it to the Roots

Wed, 13 Dec 2023 13:31:06 GMT

To grow your plants in fine style take it to the roots....

In this article we will tell you and provide you with all the information you need about roots. This is the Ultimate Guide about Roots.

Main functions of roots.

How roots are formed

For how long do roots grow?

Repotting

Repotting a plant can be a delicate process, particularly if you want to focus on the roots. Here are some gen-eral guidelines for repotting plants and focusing on their roots:

Water the plant thoroughly a few days before repotting to make it easier to remove from its current pot.
Gently remove the plant from its pot, being careful not to damage the roots. If the plant is particularly large or difficult to remove, you may need to use a knife to carefully loosen the root ball.
Inspect the roots to see if they are crowded or damaged. If the roots are tightly packed or appear to be struggling, you may need to gently loosen them before repotting.
Choose a new pot that is slightly larger than the old one, with drainage holes in the bottom. Fill the pot with fresh potting soil.
Place the plant in the new pot, being careful to spread the roots out evenly. Add more soil as needed to cover the roots.
Water the plant well to help settle the soil and encourage the roots to grow.
Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, and place the plant in a location with the appropriate amount of light and temperature for its needs.

By following these steps, you can carefully repot your plant and focus on its roots to ensure that it has the best chance of thriving in its new pot.

Important things to keep roots healthy

Here are some tips for keeping your plant’s roots healthy:

Use the right soil: Choose a potting soil that is well-draining and appropriate for the type of plant you are growing. Overly wet or poorly draining soil can lead to root rot, while soil that is too dry or nutrient-poor can stunt root growth.
Water regularly: Water your plant regularly, but be sure to avoid over-watering. Too much water can lead to root rot, while not enough water can cause the plant to become stressed and its roots to dry out.
Provide adequate drainage: Make sure your plant’s pot has drainage holes to allow excess water to drain away from the roots. Standing water around the roots can lead to root rot.
Fertilize as needed: Use a balanced fertilizer to provide your plant with the nutrients it needs to grow and stay healthy. Follow the instructions on the label for the appropriate amount and frequency of fer-tilization.
Prune roots as needed: If your plant’s roots become overcrowded, you may need to prune them to al-low the plant to continue growing properly. Be sure to use a clean, sharp tool and handle the roots gen-tly to avoid damaging them.
Provide the plant additional nutrients. This makes sure that your plant has access to all the essential nutrients it needs and, most important, in the right amounts.

What happens when roots are unhealthy?

If a plant’s roots are unhealthy, it can affect the overall health of the plant. Some possible consequences of un-healthy roots include:

Stunted growth: Unhealthy roots may be unable to absorb the water and nutrients that the plant needs to grow and thrive. As a result, the plant may grow more slowly or stop growing altogether.
Poor flowering or fruiting: Plants that are struggling due to unhealthy roots may also have poor flower-ing or fruiting. This is because the plant may not have the energy or resources it needs to produce flow-ers or fruit.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases: Unhealthy plants may be more vulnerable to pests and diseases, as their immune systems may be weakened.
Plant death: In severe cases, unhealthy roots can cause a plant to die. This may be due to a lack of wa-ter and nutrients, or to root rot or other root-related issues.

By taking good care of your plant’s roots, you can help ensure that it remains healthy and vigorous.

How to prevent unhealthy roots?

One way to prevent unhealthy roots is to ensure that your plant is getting the right amount of water. Here’s a story to illustrate this point:

In short, research your plant’s needs and make sure you follow that information. Not all plants need the same amount of water or sunlight.

How can I check the root system of my plant?

Carefully remove the plant from its pot: One way to check the root system of your plant is to carefully remove it from its pot. Be sure to handle the plant gently and try not to disturb the roots too much. Once you have removed the plant from the pot, you can examine the roots to see if they are healthy and growing properly.
Check for root growth through the drainage holes: If you don’t want to disturb the plant by removing it from its pot, you can check for root growth by looking through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. This can give you a good idea of the overall health and size of the root system.
Use a transparent pot: Another option is to use a transparent pot when planting your plant. This will al-low you to see the roots as they grow, without disturbing the plant by removing it from its pot.

Extra Tips & Tricks

Here are 10 additional tips for taking care of your plant’s roots:

Choose the right pot size: It’s important to use a pot that is the appropriate size for your plant. A pot that is too small can lead to overcrowded roots, while a pot that is too large can result in excess water and soil that stays too wet, which can lead to root rot.
Avoid over-fertilizing: While it’s important to provide your plant with the nutrients it needs to grow, over-fertilizing can lead to excessive foliage growth at the expense of root growth.
Use a potting mix specifically formulated for the type of plant you are growing: Different plants have different soil requirements. Using a potting mix that is specifically formulated for the type of plant you are growing can help ensure that the plant’s roots have access to the right nutrients and moisture.
Don’t let the plant sit in standing water: Be sure to drain any excess water from the pot after watering, as letting the plant sit in standing water can lead to root rot.
Avoid planting too deeply: When planting your plant, be sure to follow the recommended planting depth and avoid planting too deeply. If the plant is planted too deeply, it can lead to a reduced root sys-tem and reduced plant growth.
Provide adequate light: Adequate light is important for plant growth, including root growth. Make sure your plant is getting the right amount of light for its needs.
Don’t let the plant dry out: Allowing your plant to dry out can stress the plant and damage the roots. Be sure to water the plant regularly, but avoid over-watering.
Avoid using pesticides near the roots: Pesticides can be harmful to plant roots, so be sure to use them sparingly and avoid applying them near the roots.
Don’t let the plant become root-bound: If your plant becomes root-bound, meaning that the roots have become crowded and tangled in the pot, it can be difficult for the plant to absorb water and nutrients. Repot the plant into a larger pot if necessary to allow the roots room to grow.
Use mulch: Mulching around your plant can help to conserve moisture in the soil and keep the roots cool, which can be beneficial for plant growth. Just be sure to keep the mulch a few inches away from the base of the plant to prevent excess moisture from accumulating around the roots.

Hydroponics in Cold Weather

Thu, 07 Dec 2023 13:04:05 GMT

Plenty of light and warmth!

Even though hydroponics is carried out indoors it is easy to get concerned about a lack of light and warmth during the cold, dark winter months!

However, simple technology makes it easy and straightforward to give your plants exactly what they need.

The beauty of hydroponics is that it can be done all year round with the same results, regardless of what the weather is doing outdoors.

Temperature Control

Keep the water in a warm environment. If using tap water that can be particularly cold during winter so pre-store it in bottles in the warm environment. This will reduce the stress on your plants.

A heat retention mat placed under your pots can help to keep a stable temperature.

A thermostat combined with a great heater will help to keep the surrounding temperature between 18 and 21 degrees centrigrade when the lights are out. When the lights are on aim for 25 to 28 degrees.

Lighting Control

We are not always planning to use natural sunlight in a hydroponics grow room as many of them are indoors and there are a couple of options for a nice straightforward alternative.

LED lighting is very energy efficient so as well as being an excellent source they will also reduce your power consumption quite significantly. There are plenty of products to choose from and LED lighting has a long life span.

Your plants need about 8 to 10 hours of light each day and rather than doing this manually simply get a decent timer.

What to Grow?

We all have our preferences and long term growers are often very accustomed to specific crops.

If you are just starting out or fancy a change then some vegetables that will grow nicely include beansprouts, spinach, carrots and broccoli.

Whatever you choose to grow, enjoy!

Keeping it Nice & Warm

Thu, 23 Nov 2023 14:24:15 GMT

These nice little additions will help!

Plants, Cold and Shock

Plants can feel the gradual change in temperatures. If the temperature is not correctly managed then the growth will begin to slow down as winter approaches and this will become significant if it starts to go below 18 degrees.

If it goes below 15 degrees it will feel this as an attack on its roots and they can go into shock. Growth will completely shut down and all the energy will go into protecting and repairing the roots. Effectively it will become dormant until the temperature reaches an acceptable level again.

There are some methods that you can use to help avoid this...

Lighting

If you are using traditional lighting such as HPS lamps then about 80% of the consumed energy is emitted as heat. Temperatures tend to be a lot lower at night so running these to be on at night can help to overcome this. If your plants are in the state of veg then run them for between 18 and 24 hours

Conversely, if you are using LED lighting they emit very little heat so other heating methods can be considered

Heaters

Tube heaters are a good option. As well as heating the beauty of these is they take up very little space compared to other types. They can also be fitted into most spaces in terms of size and shape.

They help to provide a stable environment to protect plants against sudden temperature and humidity fluctuations.

Fan heaters can be used, but if they are too close to the plants then the dry, hot air can damage plants as it reduces the humidity and stunts their growth. Definitely useful to warm the surrounding areas though.

Thermostats

A thermostat will anaylse the temperature and control the devices accordingly.

Whlist in the summer they are great for the fan and cooling control, they can ensure that the heaters are activated when the temperature drops.

A thermostat is particularly useful for tube heaters that don't have a thermostat included.

Nutrients

Keep the temperature of the reservoir between 18 and 21 degrees. This is where your nutrients are mixed and stored ready for consumption by your plants. If it is too cold then your plants will not absorb as much as they require for efficient growth. When it is too warm then the oxygen levels will reduce.

In cold weather periods a water heater will help to keep the solution at the best temperature.

The Roots of Horticultural Hydroponics

Wed, 15 Nov 2023 11:54:18 GMT

Background to Horticultural coco

Coco was initially seen as a replacement for peat in greenhouse production – coco does not have the water repellence of dry peat, or the low pH values. However in the early days of experimentation with coco growing substrates many problems were found due to inconsistency of the product. Many coconut sources were retted in seawater and contaminated with very high levels of sodium and unpredictable levels of naturally occurring potassium. Often piles of coir dust were not left to decompose sufficiently and the resulting coco had a high nitrogen draw down index, this meant that under soilless cultivation, even with well balanced nutrients, nitrogen deficiencies in the early stages of growth were common. Coco substrates also had a high cation exchange capacity and retained calcium, phosphate and iron meaning these became unavailable for plant uptake until the coco had been in use for some time and had fully `conditioned’. As a result many soilless growers initially experienced problems with coco they didn’t understand. Few growers understood the degree with which the coco media was affecting the composition of the nutrient solution in the root zone and the fact that the coco provided an almost ideal physical structure for plant growth was overlooked.

However, high quality horticultural coco is now recognised as a superior growth media for soilless crops on both a small and commercial scale and many of the initial problems have been overcome by correct processing of the raw product and adjustment or pre treatment before packaging. High quality coco substrates on the market for soilless cropping have often been specifically processed for this use right from the point of removal from the coconuts, through to preconditioning, buffering and pre treatment. This means that nitrogen draw down is no longer a major problem, sodium contamination from retting in seawater does not occur, the naturally occurring potassium levels are adjusted and treatment with calcium and other ions is carried out before the product is packaged. Suppliers of high grade coco also carry out regular testing of their product to check for any irregularities in supply and to correct for these. However while there are excellent brands of coco on the market, there are also still poor quality supplies still being sold as a growing medium and growers need to select and only use a reputable brand, preferably one which has an accompanying `coco nutrient’ formulation designed to work with the cation exchange properties of the product. These days good quality coco has proven to be a superior growth substrate for a large number of different crops, with the advantage of being from a renewable and environmentally sound resource.

Different types of coco products – uses, pros and cons

There are many different types of coco products on the market. The husk of coconuts yields not only very coarse long fibres which are used to make a wide range of products such as rope, carpets, mats, brushes, basket liners and others, but between these coarse fibres is a corky substance called coir pith, coir dust, coco peat or coir peat. Many grades of horticultural coco exist and some have been specifically designed for different plants and systems. The very fine particle size of coir dust retains a high level of moisture and this is suited to seed raising and for smaller seedlings and plants. While a high moisture holding content in fine coco dust is an advantage in some situations, it can create problems with over saturation of the root zone. Grades of coco often used in slabs may consist of larger particles or `flakes’ of coco which allow a good degree of drainage and resist packing down over time as commonly occurs on substrates such as peat.

Coco fibre is also the term often used to refer to the general purpose grade of coco which is ideal for growing longer term crops under soilless cultivation. Worldwide coco is used for soilless crops such as tomatoes, peppers, cucumber, melons, aubergines, ornamentals, cut flowers and many others because the structure of the coco does not break down over the time frame these longer term crops are grown for. Thus high rates of root zone aeration and moisture retention are typical in both short and long term soilless crops and this results in high yields and good root health.

Coco also comes in a range of different products – from small to large compressed `bricks’ to `grow slabs’ to pre expanded ready to use, bagged product. Compressed bricks of coco fibre mean the cost of shipment can be kept to a minimum, a typical 5Kg block of compressed coco can be expanded in water to over 65 litres of ready to use growing substrate. Pre wrapped slabs of compressed coco can be less than one inch thick but when expanded with water within their plastic sleeve give a full sized growing slab comparable in volume to rockwool.

The advantage of coco bricks is that once expanded the media can be used to fill any size or shape of growing bed, pot or bag, the disadvantage is that a time is required for the media to fully expand and some labour is needed to fill the growing plots. Loose coco placed into growing pots or containers can be easily inspected for moisture level by checking the appearance of the top of the substrate or by feeling the moisture level of the coco just below the surface, this is more difficult in wrapped coco grow slabs. The coco slab only needs to be placed in position, slits cut in the plastic sleeve and water poured in – the coco expands and can be planted out with no further effort. The disadvantage of slabs is that they need a very level surface to sit on so that drainage is even and they don’t provide the depth of growing substrate that a planter bag or pot can for larger plants.

Check out our great Coco products from Canna

Getting Your Plants Off to a Good Start

Thu, 02 Nov 2023 12:51:57 GMT

A crucial factor when using an ebb and flow system is ensuring good root development in the plants. Often, only a few centimetres of feed solution is used in the pots and the excess is pumped away within ten or fifteen minutes. This is not sufficient for the food to be absorbed right up to the top of the pots. A good method to use is to fill up the containers with a mixture of coco and clay pebbles and use CANNA COCO A & B. Depending on the crop's nutritional requirements, a solution of 1 ml per litre up to a maximum of 4 ml per litre will be enough. The plants can be set out immediately after the pots have been filled.

As soon as the plants have been set out, it is advisable to feed them in the regular way (i.e. from above, not from below), according to the requirements of the crop for the first week. It is crucial to only start using the (automated) ebb and flow system when the roots have reached the bottom of the pots (see picture 2). This will be between 6 and 10 days after the plants have been set out. As soon as the roots have reached the bottom, the standard CANNA COCO feeding schedule can be used as a guide to feeding, beginning with Vegetative phase II.

Tips for watering plants from underneath

In ebb and flow systems, it is essential to ensure that the substrate remains sufficiently aereated, as many experienced growers will tell you. As soon as the roots are visible at the bottom of the pots, consider the following tips if you want to switch to watering and feeding using ebb and flow:

In the first few days, there should be enough time between waterings. This is to ensure that the medium drains sufficiently. In other words, the medium needs to dry out properly between each feed. Feeding just once or twice a week is often enough.
For crops that need more frequent feeding, it may be enough to feed them once every two days. The crucial point is that medium must not become waterlogged in order to reduce the risk of a lack of oxygen in and around the roots.

Control of Poisons and Explosives Precursors Regulations 2023 (EPP)

Wed, 11 Oct 2023 14:09:38 GMT

This affects Phosphoric Acid solutions that are over 30%

The 1972 Poisons Act exists to regulate the sale of various poisons and harmful substances and frequently undergoes an amendment.

Most recently, as of 1st October 2023, the sale of phosphoric acid whose strength exceeds 30% has been restricted.

To quote the UK Government "Members of the public who want to import, acquire, possess or use these chemicals must hold an Explosives Precursors and Poisons (EPP) licence issued by the Home Office and an associated photographic identity document"

For further information on the licencing procedure please click this link

As an alternative there are several options of formidable quality,, a couple of which are mentioned below.

BioBizz Bio Down pH-

The easiest way to organically adjust the pH!

Under Control: Bio pH- and Bio pH+ don't alter the NPK levels of your grow so you know exactly what you are doing.

Natural: Keeps everything organic in your grow from start to finish.

Quick: It works in only 10 seconds!

Easy: Just apply Bio pH- and Bio pH+ to the nutrient mix until you reach the optimum pH level

Safe: Bio pH+ and Bio pH- don't contain any strong acids . No harm for the substrate microorganisms and no danger for the grower.

Essentials LAB 30% pH- is an acid solution (30% phosphoric acid) which can be used in small, controlled doses to lower the pH (increase acidity) of nutrient solutions. Mix thoroughly and measure with a calibrated pH meter to attain the desired pH reading. Ideal for adjusting large volumes of nutrient solution.

Advantages

Concentrated acid solution
Can adjust the pH of large volumes of nutrient solution

Technical Specifications:

30% phosphoric acid
pH: <1.0
Volume: 1 L

This product falls below the concentration threshold for Regulated Substances under The Control of Poisons and Explosives Precursors Regulations 2023.

Bigger & Better Plants with the Right Nutrients

Wed, 23 Aug 2023 11:09:01 GMT

Why the right nutrients will give you the best yield yet...

Every grower has experienced the frustration of a struggling crop, but what is the solution? Simple, plant nutrients. Additional nutrients offer your plants another layer of health and protection to help you treat deficiencies and boost your yield.

The difficult part is finding the right mix without giving your plants discolorations or burns. This can be difficult for many growers, because they don’t know the value of quality nutrients, and no one has told them differently. Finding that recipe will change you, and your grow’s life, so how is that possible?

#1 Do You Think You Do Enough For Your Plants, but You Don’t Use Nutrients? Think Again!

The majority of growers have a basic understanding of their plants. They know they need water, light, and a proper substrate to survive, but many growers forget about the most important thing plants need to thrive is nutrients. So what are nutrients, and why are they important? Nutrients provide essential minerals to plants that will help them grow and develop. The proper amount of nutrients will help to keep the plants healthy and be in optimal condition for the most efficient photosynthetic process. There is a massive difference in the quality of nutrients and therefore do your research before deciding what nutrients you are going to buy.

Quality nutrients also boost the immune systems in plants and help them defend against fungi, bacteria, and deficiencies. An important thing to remember when picking out your nutrients is that not all nutrients are created equal. Our growing methods have become more advanced, and with that, we need to remember the importance of quality nutrients to allow our plants to thrive with our new growing technologies. Do your research, and always use a supreme nutrient brand to provide your plants with their best results.

#2 The Money You Spend on Lights, and Environmental Factors is Wasted Without Good Nutrients

The #1 mistake made by growers is not checking in on your plants often enough. As a grower, you are in full control over your plants. You decide about the climate, substrate, light, and nutrients used in your grow. All of these factors have a significant influence on your plants’ growth and development.

Because there are so many factors that growers have to take into consideration, we have to remember not to make decisions about these factors too quickly. Make sure you take the time to analyze your plants and listen to what they are telling you they need. Deficiencies are often neglected or not noticed, and deficiencies will tell you exactly how to fix your crop. Growers can have very advanced climate systems, lights, and substrates in place, but without premium fertilizers or nutrients, their plants’ growth will always be limited.

If You Can’t Keep Up With Your Grow, Don’t Expect Your Plants to Keep up!

Nutrients will always be the most crucial part of your grow. We have to realize that when we don’t provide our plants with quality food for them to grow, the environmental systems we use will not be able to take their maximum effect. As a grower, you must manage these external systems and monitor how they interact with your plants. You can have the best systems in the world, but when you don’t watch them and combine them with high-quality nutrients, you will always be stuck with a crop that isn’t reaching its maximum potential.

Where to Find Quality Nutrients

Some growers try to mix their own nutrients (organic or mineral nutrients) without proper education or knowledge, and that can be seriously deadly to their crop. There are companies that specialize in nutrients to make sure your plants will have the proper ratios without guessing.

Growing is a science, and if you have no real biological and chemical understanding of how plants work, don’t try to mix your own nutrients to save money. What you save at one side, you will lose on the other side.

#3 Making a Mistake Can Be Life-Threatening To Your Plants, Learn from the Pros

Growing can be unpredictable, and education is essential to becoming a successful grower. We believe there are only two ways of educating yourself, “Trial and Error” and ”Self-Educating by learning from the Pros.”

Trial and error is the preferred method by the majority of growers, but it is slow and inefficient . Trial and error take the time that many growers do not have. Before they figure everything out, they will, most likely, face many of the most common growing mistakes in the world. Now when the time and the money are available, always take the opportunity to create and innovate. But when time and money are at stake, why reinvent the wheel when you can learn from it?

Self-Educating is the only way to achieve the best results fast and to make as few mistakes as possible. Learning everything from the pros can help you prevent diseases at all costs, and make sure that your plants always have access to the right amount of nutrients.

We provide easy to read Feed Charts with all of our products, so you won’t have to guess your measurements and potentially lose out on your yield.

Final Thoughts

Plants need nutrients. As a grower, it is your job to find the best quality nutrients for your grow. Your plants want to thrive, and nutrients are a huge factor in plants thriving along with the environmental climate. Add your nutrients, and to create consistency and improve your yield, please make sure you also do the following:

Check your plants daily and look for any deficiencies or excess amounts of nutrients.
Deficiencies and nutrient burns will tell you if you need to change your PPM which can increase or decrease the amount of nutrients given to your plants.
Check the pH and PPM of your reservoir and make sure that your water temperature is correct.
An imbalance of pH, PPM, and water temperature can cause any nutrient line to be incompatible with your plants.
Don’t go longer than a week with your reservoir.
The water quality depreciates after time due to bacteria, oxygen levels, CO2 levels, and evaporation.
Have access to the right ratio of nutrients.
The amount of nutrients given, whether it is too little or too much, can cause any nutrient line to not perform to its maximum ability. Be careful to not overfeed, or underfeed your plants. Feed charts offer guidance.

Information shared courtesy of our knowlegeable colleagues at DutchPro

Plant Deficiencies

Wed, 19 Jul 2023 11:23:48 GMT

There are certain nutrients that are essential for the growth and development of a plant and if there are any deficiencies there are a number of symptoms that can occur.

Some of the most commonly required nutrients are iron, potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen. Some of the most common deficiency symptoms include distorted leaves, stunted growth and unusual colouration.

Types of Deficiencies

Here is a list of the nutrients that plants require and what happens if a specific one is in short supply.....

Calcium Deficiency

A calcium deficiency in plants is a condition in which the plant is not getting enough calcium, a mineral that is essential for the proper growth and development of the plant.

Calcium plays important roles in cell walls, development of roots and shoots, fruit development, and seed germination. It is especially important in the growth of young plants and in the development of new leaves, stems, and roots. When a plant is deficient in calcium, it is unable to properly transport water and nutrients throughout the plant, which can lead to a variety of symptoms.

Symptoms of calcium deficiency in plants include:

Blossom-end rot in fruits (usually in tomatoes)
Stunted growth and distorted leaves
Tips and margins of leaves turning brown and becoming brittle
Root damage and dieback
Fruit that is misshapen or fails to develop properly.

A calcium deficiency can be caused by a variety of factors, including poor soil quality, lack of calcium in the soil, low soil pH, improper watering, and pests or diseases. In addition, high levels of other minerals such as magnesium, and potassium in the soil may interfere with the uptake of calcium.

Carbon deficiency

A carbon deficiency in plants is a condition in which the plant is not getting enough carbon, an essential element that is required for the process of photosynthesis.

Carbon is the basic building block of carbohydrates, such as sugars and starches, which plants use as an energy source to fuel their growth and development. During photosynthesis, plants use energy from the sun, water and carbon dioxide (CO2) from the air to produce these carbohydrates. Without enough carbon, plants cannot produce enough energy to support normal growth and development.

Symptoms of a carbon deficiency in plants include:

Slow or stunted growth
Pale or yellowing leaves
Smaller than normal leaves
Reduced photosynthesis and chlorophyll production
Reduced root development

Carbon deficiency can be caused by several factors: low light levels, poor air circulation and high temperature, which reduces the rate of photosynthesis and decrease the CO2 concentration in the air. Deficiency can also occur when the plant is exposed to high levels of other gases such as ethylene, ammonia and nitrous oxide, which can inhibit photosynthesis.

Chlorine deficiency

A chlorine deficiency in plants is a condition in which the plant is not getting enough chlorine, a micronutrient that is essential for normal growth and development. Chlorine is a component of a vital compound in plants called chlorophyll, which plays a crucial role in the process of photosynthesis by absorbing light energy and converting it into chemical energy.

Symptoms of chlorine deficiency in plants can include:

Pale or yellowing leaves, especially between leaf veins
Reduced growth and development
Reduced photosynthesis
Decrease in root growth
Stunted growth
Browning or necrosis of leaf tips and edges.

The main cause of chlorine deficiency is a lack of chlorine in the soil, but other factors such as high soil pH, heavy use of nitrogen and potassium fertilizers, or poor drainage can also contribute to the development of this deficiency.

Chlorine is highly soluble in water and can easily be leached from the soil, so plants that are grown in sandy soils or in areas with heavy rainfall may be particularly susceptible to chlorine deficiency.

Copper deficiency

Copper, a micronutrient that is essential for normal growth and development. Copper is involved in a variety of important functions in the plant, including enzyme activation, lignin synthesis, and pigmentation.

Symptoms of copper deficiency in plants can include:

Wilting of leaves
Reduced growth and development
Pale or yellowing leaves
Chlorosis (yellowing) between leaf veins
Shrivelled and small leaves
Distorted leaves, stems, and roots
Reduced fruit production

Copper deficiency can be caused by a lack of copper in the soil, high soil pH, high levels of other minerals such as zinc, or by a combination of these factors. Copper is an immobile nutrient which means that once the deficiency symptoms appear, they cannot be reversed by applying copper to the leaves.

Hydrogen deficiency

Hydrogen is not typically considered as a nutrient that plants require to grow and thrive. Hydrogen (H) is present in water (H2O) and is used as a reactant in the process of photosynthesis, but it is not considered to be a mineral nutrient in the way that elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are.

That being said, a hydrogen deficiency in plants is not a commonly recognized concept and is not typically a problem that plants face. However, In certain research or laboratory conditions, where scientists manipulate the gas composition around plants, hydrogen gas has been used as a means to mimic an environment with low oxygen or high carbon dioxide (CO2) to study its effect on plant growth.

Under such lab conditions, a “Hydrogen deficiency” is induced by low levels of hydrogen in the air and high levels of other gases, and it can lead to stunted growth, reduced photosynthesis and smaller leaves and root development.

In general, hydrogen is not something that plants are deficient in and is not something that would be corrected through fertilization or other means, as plants would obtain it via water. If you’re experiencing problems with plant growth, there may be other issues at play, such as a lack of light, water, or other essential nutrients.

It’s also important to note that hydrogen gas is highly flammable and should be handled with care, thus it is not a safe gas to work with in an indoor gardening or greenhouse setting.

Iron deficiency

An iron (Fe) deficiency in plants is a condition in which the plant is not getting enough iron, a micronutrient that is essential for normal growth and development. Iron is involved in several important functions in plants, including photosynthesis, respiration, and the production of chlorophyll.

Symptoms of iron deficiency in plants can include:

Chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves, particularly between the veins
Pale, yellow leaves that eventually turn brown and die
Reduced growth and development
Reduced photosynthesis
Reduced leaf size
Twig dieback

Iron deficiency can be caused by several factors including a lack of iron in the soil, high soil pH, heavy use of nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, or poor drainage. Iron is also immobile nutrient which means that once the deficiency symptoms appear, they cannot be reversed by applying iron to the leaves.

Magnesium deficiency

A magnesium (Mg) deficiency in plants is a condition in which the plant is not getting enough magnesium, a macronutrient that is essential for normal growth and development. Magnesium is an important component of chlorophyll, the green pigment in plants that is necessary for photosynthesis.

Symptoms of magnesium deficiency in plants can include:

Yellowing of leaves between the veins, with the older leaves usually affected first.
Chlorosis (yellowing) of leaves
Wilted leaves
Reduced growth and development
Reduced photosynthesis
Root damage

Magnesium deficiency can be caused by a lack of magnesium in the soil, high soil pH, heavy use of potassium fertilizers, or poor drainage. Similar to other nutrients, Magnesium is also immobile which means that once the deficiency symptoms appear, they cannot be reversed by applying magnesium to the leaves.

Manganese deficiency

A manganese (Mn) deficiency in plants is a condition in which the plant is not getting enough manganese, a micronutrient that is essential for normal growth and development. Manganese is involved in several important processes in plants, including photosynthesis, respiration, and the production of enzymes that protect the plant from stress and diseases.

Symptoms of manganese deficiency in plants can include:

Chlorosis (yellowing) of leaves, particularly between the veins
Pale, yellow leaves that eventually turn brown and die
Reduced growth and development
Reduced photosynthesis
Reduced leaf size
Twig dieback

Manganese deficiency can be caused by a lack of manganese in the soil, high soil pH, heavy use of nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, or poor drainage. Similar to other micronutrients, manganese is immobile, which means that once the deficiency symptoms appear, they cannot be reversed by applying manganese to the leaves.

Molybdenum deficiency

A molybdenum (Mo) deficiency in plants is a condition in which the plant is not getting enough molybdenum, a micronutrient that is essential for normal growth and development. Molybdenum is involved in several important processes in plants, including the metabolism of nitrogen, the production of enzymes that protect the plant from stress, and the metabolism of sulphur-containing compounds.

Symptoms of molybdenum deficiency in plants can include:

Chlorosis (yellowing) of leaves, particularly between the veins
Pale, yellow leaves that eventually turn brown and die
Reduced growth and development
Reduced photosynthesis
Reduced leaf size
Twig dieback
Reduced fruit and seed production
A general stunted growth

Molybdenum deficiency can be caused by a lack of molybdenum in the soil, high soil pH, heavy use of nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, or poor drainage. Similar to other micronutrients, molybdenum is immobile, which means that once the deficiency symptoms appear, they cannot be reversed by applying molybdenum to the leaves.

Nickel deficiency

A nickel (Ni) deficiency in plants is a condition in which the plant is not getting enough nickel, a micronutrient that is essential for normal growth and development. Nickel plays a role in several important processes in plants, including the metabolism of nitrogen and the production of enzymes that protect the plant from stress.

Nickel deficiency in plants is rare and is not widely studied. However, there are some indications that nickel may be important for the proper functioning of some plants. Symptoms of nickel deficiency in plants can include:

Stunted growth
Reduced root growth
Reduced photosynthesis
Chlorosis (yellowing) of leaves, particularly between the veins
Pale, yellow leaves that eventually turn brown and die
Reduced crop yields

Nickel deficiency can be caused by a lack of nickel in the soil, high soil pH, heavy use of nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, or poor drainage. Similar to other micronutrients, nickel is immobile, which means that once the deficiency symptoms appear, they cannot be reversed by applying nickel to the leaves.

Nitrogen deficiency

A nitrogen (N) deficiency in plants is a condition in which the plant is not getting enough nitrogen, a macronutrient that is essential for normal growth and development. Nitrogen is an essential component of chlorophyll, which is necessary for photosynthesis, and it is also a key component of amino acids, which are used to build proteins and other important compounds in the plant.

Symptoms of nitrogen deficiency in plants can include:

Pale or yellowing leaves, especially on older growth
Slow or stunted growth
Reduced leaf size
Reduced photosynthesis
Reduced root growth
Reduced fruit and seed production
Poor overall plant vigor

Nitrogen deficiency can be caused by a lack of nitrogen in the soil, poor soil quality, heavy use of nitrogen-consuming crops, or overuse of nitrogen-rich fertilizers. It’s also immobile nutrient which means that once the deficiency symptoms appear, they cannot be reversed by applying nitrogen to the leaves.

Oxygen deficiency

An oxygen (O2) deficiency in plants is a condition in which the plant is not getting enough oxygen to support normal growth and development. Oxygen is essential for the process of respiration, which allows the plant to convert sugars and other nutrients into energy. This is done in the mitochondria of the cells where the energy is produced by oxidation of the fuel molecules.

Symptoms of oxygen deficiency in plants can include:

Stunted growth
Reduced root growth
Reduced photosynthesis
Chlorosis (yellowing) of leaves
Pale, yellow leaves that eventually turn brown and die
Reduced crop yields

An oxygen deficiency can be caused by several factors including poorly aerated soil, waterlogged soil, and high humidity conditions. In waterlogged soil, the oxygen dissolves in water rather than in the air space, so the roots of the plants are suffocated. In high humidity conditions, the air around the plants can become saturated with water vapor, reducing the amount of oxygen that the plant can take in.

Phosphorus deficiency

A phosphorus (P) deficiency in plants is a condition in which the plant is not getting enough phosphorus, a macronutrient that is essential for normal growth and development. Phosphorus plays an important role in several key processes in plants, including photosynthesis, energy transfer, and the development of roots, fruits and seeds.

Symptoms of phosphorus deficiency in plants can include:

Reduced growth and development
Dark green leaves with a blue-green tinge
Purple or reddish coloration on leaves and stem
Reduced fruit and seed production
Slow maturing plants
Smaller and weaker root systems

Phosphorus deficiency can be caused by a lack of phosphorus in the soil, high soil pH, heavy use of potassium fertilizers, or poor drainage. Similar to other macronutrients, phosphorus is immobile, which means that once the deficiency symptoms appear, they cannot be reversed by applying phosphorus to the leaves.

Potassium deficiency

A potassium (K) deficiency in plants is a condition in which the plant is not getting enough potassium, a macronutrient that is essential for normal growth and development. Potassium is involved in several important processes in plants, including water regulation, enzyme activation, and the production of proteins and starches.

Symptoms of potassium deficiency in plants can include:

Yellowing of the leaves, particularly at the margins and between the veins
Wilted leaves
Reduced growth and development
Reduced photosynthesis
Reduced fruit and seed production
Increased susceptibility to disease and pests

Potassium deficiency can be caused by a lack of potassium in the soil, heavy use of nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, high soil pH, or poor drainage. Similar to other macronutrients, potassium is immobile, which means that once the deficiency symptoms appear, they cannot be reversed by applying potassium to the leaves.

Silicon deficiency

A silicon deficiency in plants is a condition where the plant is not getting enough silicon in its growth environment. Silicon is an essential micronutrient for plants, and it plays an important role in the structural stability of cells and tissues. It is the second most abundant element in the Earth’s crust after oxygen, but it is not commonly considered a plant nutrient because it is not a component of any enzymes or metabolic pathways.

Symptoms of silicon deficiency in plants can include:

Reduction of thickness of leaves
Appearance of translucent areas in the leaves
Appearance of transparent areas in the leaves
Increased susceptibility to disease and pests

Plants that are grown in soils with a high pH or that have a high levels of aluminum, iron, or other elements that can interfere with silicon uptake may be more prone to silicon deficiency.

Sulphur deficiency

A sulphur deficiency in plants is a condition where the plant is not getting enough sulphur in its growth environment. sulphur is an essential element for plants, and it plays an important role in a variety of metabolic processes, including the synthesis of amino acids, proteins, and other biomolecules.

Plants take up sulphur in the form of sulphate which is usually present in the soil as a result of weathering of minerals or as a byproduct of microbial activity. Once inside the plant, sulfur is used to make a variety of compounds, including the amino acids cysteine and methionine, which are important building blocks of proteins.

Symptoms of sulphur deficiency can vary depending on the plant species and the severity of the deficiency, but they typically include a yellowing of the leaves (chlorosis) that is similar to nitrogen deficiency. The yellowing often starts on the older leaves and can spread to the younger leaves as the deficiency worsens. Plants that are grown in soils that have a low sulphur content, have high levels of organic matter or have a high pH are more prone to sulphur deficiency.

Zinc deficiency

A zinc deficiency in plants is a condition where the plant is not getting enough zinc in its growth environment. Zinc is an essential micronutrient for plants and it plays an important role in a variety of metabolic processes, including the synthesis of proteins, hormones and other biomolecules.

Plants take up zinc in the form of zinc ions (Zn2+), which is usually present in the soil as a result of weathering of minerals or as a byproduct of microbial activity. Once inside the plant, zinc is used in many enzymatic reactions, it is involved in hormone synthesis and also plays a role in the regulation of gene expression.

Symptoms of zinc deficiency can vary depending on the plant species and the severity of the deficiency, but they typically include stunted growth, a reduction in the size of leaves, and a yellowing of the leaves (chlorosis) that is similar to iron deficiency. The yellowing often starts between the leaf veins, and the leaves can become twisted or distorted. The symptoms can be most visible in the younger leaves of the plant and the youngest growth.

Plants that are grown in soils that have a low zinc content, have high levels of other metals (such as iron or copper) that can interfere with zinc uptake or have a high pH are more prone to zinc deficiency.

What are nutrients

Nutrients are essential for all living organisms, including humans and plants. They provide the building blocks and energy needed for growth, development, and maintenance of health.

For humans, the essential nutrients include carbohydrates, proteins, fats, vitamins, and minerals. Carbohydrates provide energy, while proteins and fats are necessary for the repair and maintenance of body tissues. Vitamins and minerals are essential for many metabolic processes, including the formation of bones and teeth, the metabolism of energy, and the proper functioning of the immune system.

Plants also require a range of essential nutrients, including carbohydrates, proteins, lipids, vitamins, and minerals. Carbohydrates, including sugars and starches, provide energy for growth and development. Proteins and lipids are needed for the formation of cell walls, membranes, and other structural components. Vitamins and minerals are required for many metabolic processes, including photosynthesis, the synthesis of pigments, and the production of hormones.

Similar to humans, plants also require specific minerals for specific functions. for instance, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are considered the primary macronutrients for plant growth and development, as they are involved in many important processes such as the synthesis of chlorophyll, the formation of proteins, and the regulation of water uptake.

Another set of micronutrients are also necessary for plant growth and development, like iron, zinc, manganese, copper, and many others, they play a crucial role in various enzymatic reactions, plant metabolism and resistance to environmental stress.

Unlike humans, however, plants are able to produce many of their own nutrients through the process of photosynthesis. In this process, plants convert sunlight into energy, which they use to combine carbon dioxide and water to produce oxygen and glucose.

However, both humans and plants can suffer from nutrient deficiencies. In humans, nutrient deficiencies can lead to a range of health problems, including anemia, osteoporosis, and immune system dysfunction. In plants, nutrient deficiencies can lead to stunted growth, reduced yield, and increased susceptibility to disease and pests.

Proper nutrition is essential for both humans and plants, it is the foundation for good health and growth. A well-balanced diet and regular soil analysis can ensure that your plants and you get the essential nutrients that are needed for optimal health and development.

Can you add infinite amount of nutrients

It is generally not recommended to add an infinite amount of nutrients to a plant. While plants do require certain nutrients for growth and development, too much of a good thing can be harmful.

Excess of certain nutrients can cause nutrient imbalances, which can lead to toxicity and other negative effects on the plant.

For example, an excess of nitrogen can lead to lush green foliage, but it can also inhibit the development of flowers and fruits. Similarly, an excess of potassium can lead to a thick, tough cell wall which makes the plant less resistant to disease and pests.

Also, too much of one nutrient can cause a deficiency of another nutrient, since nutrients have interactions and may compete for absorption, making it hard for the plant to take in other essential nutrients.

It’s important to keep in mind that different plants have different nutrient requirements, depending on their species and growth stage. It is crucial to have a good understanding of the nutrient needs of the plants you’re growing and to use a fertilizer or nutrient solution that is formulated specifically for them.

It’s also a good idea to conduct a soil test or nutrient test to determine the current nutrient levels in your soil or growing medium and adjust the amount of fertilizer or nutrient solution you’re using accordingly.

A general rule of thumb is to use a lower amount of nutrient than what is recommended in the instructions, and slowly increasing it as needed, rather than going with the maximum recommended.

Proper monitoring, with the use of pH and EC meters, can also help you track the nutrient uptake of your plants and adjust your feeding schedule as needed.

In conclusion, providing plants with the right amount of nutrients is essential for optimal growth and development. But providing an infinite amount of nutrients, is not beneficial and could even be harmful to the plants. It is important to provide the right amount of nutrients, and a good knowledge of the plant’s needs, with the help of a feed chart, is crucial to ensure the plants are healthy and thriving.

Proper Propagation Tips

Wed, 12 Jul 2023 11:31:30 GMT

How to make more plants out of one

Propagation is the term for creating new plants from plants that already exist.

There are plenty of different ways to make more plants out of one and years of research, experimentation along with trial and error have given us some good options.

Can we propagate any plant?

Some plants are easier to propagate than others and not all can be propagated with the same methods. Therefore the success rate will depend on the method used for the specific plant. Several methods can be used for some of them whereas for others only some will work.

By researching the specific ways of propagating your plants you can make sure the humidity, temperature and any rooting hormone is correct.

Different practices of propagation...

There are several different practices such as these listed below:

Cuttings: By taking a piece of the stem, root or leaf new roots can be encouraged to grow and develop a new plant.
Division: Plants can be split into new sections and planted separately. This works for perennial plants.
Grafting: Attaching one part of a plant, the scion into the root of another, the rootstock , will result in the scion growing genetically identical to the parent plant.
Layering: Bending a branch into the ground then covering it with soil will cause it to grow new roots.

Choosing the main plant

Take into account a few important factors when choosing the parent plant...

Ease of rooting: Some plants root easier than others. Do a bit of research on how easy it is to root a specific plant and use a bit of trial-and-error by taking several cuttings from different plants. This will increase the chances of success with it.
Vigour: Choose a plant that is already growing vigourously.
Age: Younger plants are easier to propagate from cuttings than older ones are.
Health: Choose a plant that is free from any disease, pests or other forms of stress because the overall health of the parent plant has an effect on the health of the cutting.

How to propagate

Here are a few tips that are worth checking out....

Choose healthy plants that are totally disease-free
Research and select the right method as listed above in the different practices
Research and select the right method for the type of plant you are propagating. Different plants have different requirements, such as the temperature range, moisture and soil type.
Always use sterile tools to limit the spread of any disease
Water them regularly but don't overwater them
Keep a close eye on them so that any issues can be addressed sooner rather than later

Growing the new plant

This goes through plenty of stages known as below....

Germination: The first phase of growth is where a seed sprouts and grows new roots. This needs the right combination of moisture, oxygen and temperature.

Seedling: This is where the plant is growing new roots and its first set of leaves. This is where the plant becomes within its own right and is now independent of any seed.

Maturity: The plant continues to grow and will reach its full size and depending on the type of plant can take anything from a few weeks to a few years. Research this for your specific plant so that you understand your expectations.

Take proper care of the plant during each stage, in particular the correct amount of light, water, nutrients and protection from diseases and pests.

Special care

Propagated plants need slightly more care than their parents...

Watering: Because they tend to have smaller root systems they can dry out easier so without waterlogging the soil make sure that they are watered sufficiently. Incorrect watering can cause drying out at one extreme or rotting at the other.

Lighting: Because they are still developing, more light can be required. Plenty of bright, but indirect light can help with this.

Fertilising: They are still developing their root system so will need less fertiliser than mature plants do. Use a nicely balanced fertiliser that is water soluble at around half of the usual strength.

Temperature: Allow for a nice consistent and moderate temperature and avoid drafts or hot/cold extremes

Time to transfer

Take the following into account when deciding to transfer a propagated plant:

Root development: When the roots become densely packed into the container or have outgrown it then it is time to transfer the propagules to a larger pot.

Plant size: As it grows and becomes larger it will of course need more space to keep on growing. Shifting it to a larger pot with give it more room to keep growing and developing.

Overall health of the plant: If there are any issues such as yellowing leaves or stunted growth then it may well be time to transplant it to a new pot with fresh soil. This will help it to recover and grow stronger.

The best time to transplant a propagule is when it has outgrown its container. Handle the plant gently and carefully during the process and be sure to avoid any damage to the roots.

Watering your Plants

Wed, 28 Jun 2023 11:25:19 GMT

It's an obvious thing that plants need watering but it is important to remember that plants can be overwatered as well as underwatered.

As long as you know how to do it correctly things are less likely to go wrong.

Here are a few key points and suggestions....

Why Plants need Water

Water is a key part of the process from which plants obtain their energy. This process is known as photosynthesis.

Photosynthesis is the process where a plant converts water, carbon dioxide and sunlight (or any available light) into glucose. Glucose is the plant's energy. Water is required for this as it provides the hydrogen that becomes part of the glucose molecules.

Water is also a key part of the plant's transportation system. Plants intake their water via the roots and is transported upwards to the leaves via the stems. This is known as transpiration and helps to prevent overheating.

This transportation system is how the nutrients are brought to the plant's cells for development and growth.

What Goes Wrong and Why

There are various reasons for the incorrect watering of plants and various results....

Different plants have different needs and not knowing the correct quantities of water can have different effects. Overwatering can cause rot and underwatering can cause the plant to wilt.

Also, the frequency of watering is important and incorrect frequencies can have similar effects to the above.

Forgetting or neglecting the watering.... If you have a lot of plants and/or they are cultivated in a different location it may be easy to miss the schedule. This could also happen if and when you go away on holiday and rely on somebody else to take care of them.

Having the incorrect or insufficient tools can be a hindrance too, such as using a small watering can for a large area - how can you be sure that all plants have got the correct amount of water rather than too much or too little?

Overwatering and Underwatering

These are two of the most common problems that plants experience and can ultimately lead to the death of a plant.

Overwatering can lead to a number of problems, the main one being root rot. The plant's root tissue will break down if it is subjected to very moist conditions for too long. Stunted growth, wilting and yellowing leaves are common warning signs.

Underwatering causes a plant to wilt and become stressed. Stunted growth and yellowing leaves are also warning signs for this.

Be sure to provide the right amount of water for your plants at the right frequency. Different plants have different needs so be sure to research this or contact us and we can give good advice.

A water timer is a great tool to help you get it right.

Elements

Unless the water is pure it actually contains a certain amount of elements that your plants need....

Nitrogen - this is used by plants to produce proteins and enzymes. It is also a key element in chlorophyll which is what gives plants their green colouring and is essential for photosynthesis.

Phosphorus - plants use this to metabolise energy, synthesise nucleic acids and to develop strong roots. It is also important for the production of flowers and fruits.

Calcium, potassium and magnesium are also found in water and are involved in photosynthesis, hormone synthesis and enzyme activation.

Providing water that is rich in nutrients can really help your plants to thrive and flourish.

Hard and Soft Water

It was mentioned above about the elements carried by water.

Hard water typically contains more elements than soft water. Soft water can be absorbed more easily by plants and is better if your soil already has a high mineral content.

A quick test to check your water for hardness is this: Fill a container half full of water and add a few drops of pure liquid soap. Shake it for a few seconds. If the water is soft there will be plenty of bubbles and hard water will appear milky and cloudy.

Dry Soil

If the soil dries out it can effectively cause your plant to be underwatered. Roots will struggle to penetrate it to access the moisture.

Be sure to know your plant's watering needs. Different plants have different needs so research or ask us.

Check the soil moisture level. It is as simple as sticking your finger in and feeling if it is dry below the surface.

Water deep and thoroughly and not just the surface, but don't overwater!

Improvements

Here is a quick breakdown and summary of what to do:

Know the watering needs of your plants and research if necessary
Check the moisture levels before watering
Water deeply and thoroughly
Use a fine nozzle on your watering system. This spreads the water evenly
Water in the morning or evening rather than during the heat of the day
Avoid getting water on the leaves and foliage to prevent fungal growth.
Water the soil directly
Use mulch to help retain the moisture

And finally.... Write down your plants' watering needs and ensure you provide the right amount at the right time!

Keeping it Cool!

brockneyc@gmail.com (Emporium Hydroponics ) — Thu, 22 Jun 2023 11:22:54 GMT

The summer months, especially when there is a heatwave, can add challenges to maintaining your grow room and it can be tempting to shut up shop for a short while.

However, it can be relatively straightforward to keep on top of this by taking account of various parts of the system.

Hot spots can develop in grow rooms during the warmer times of year. Because a fan circulates the air the temperatures become more stable and even. This strengthens the stems of your plants and they become more resistant to pests.

Fans can also be pointed towards the appliances that produce heat such as your lights and ballasts. Where possible, keep these items outside of the grow space, with ballasts being easy to do.

As well as having fans to circulate the air, extracting air from the grow room helps to moderate the temperature by drawing fresh and cooler air from outside. To get the maximum effect from an extraction system make sure to link it up with a temperature control so that it works harder as and when required.

In addition, keep the air ducting as straight as possible, this reduces friction along with the associated heat and noise that is generated by curves and bends in the system.

Increasing the CO2 levels in a grow room can have a fantastic effect on the rate of growth. CO2 is effectively what your plants are breathing and naturally occurs in the atmosphere at a ratio of around 400ppm. Increasing this ratio to 1000ppm can increase your growth rates by over 20 percent. It also helps your plants to strive for growth in higher temperatures of about 30 degrees centigrade.

The lighting in your system can be one of the largest generators of heat but this is all changing for the better!

LED lighting has always been efficient and is becoming far cheaper to purchase and also has a lengthy life-span.

They generate far less heat and as a result they also save energy.

When running a lighting schedule run your lighting overnight where possible as the temperature is naturally cooler then.

PH - Acidity and Alkalinity

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 01 Jun 2023 10:36:06 GMT

The pH of a liquid or solution ranges from 0 to 14 with 7 being completely neutral. An acidic solution has a pH that ranges from 0 to 6.9 and a solution from 7.1 to 14 is alkaline. Most hydroponic setups function at their best when the pH ranges from 5.8 to 6.2.

The importance of the pH

Solutions ionise into positive and negative ions and the term pH refers to the potential hydrogen/hydroxyl ion content of a solution. If a solution has more hydrogen (positive) ions than hydroxyl (negative) ions then it is acidic and has a pH in the range of 0 to 6.9. Alternatively, if a solution has more hydroxyl (negative) ions than hydrogen (positive) ions then it is alkaline with a pH in the range of 7.1 to 14. Pure water and deionised water has a balance of hydrogen (H+) and hydroxyl (OH-) ions and is therefore pH neutral (pH 7).

If the pH of a solution is not within the correct range the plant will not have the ability to absorb some of the essential elements required for proper plant growth. All plants have a particular pH range, which will produce healthy growth, and this level will vary from plant to plant, but most plants prefer a slightly acidic growing environment (5.8 to 6.2), although most plants can survive in an environment with pH values between 5.0 and 7.0.

Plants grown in acidic environments can experience a variety of symptoms, including aluminium (Al), hydrogen (H), and/or manganese (Mn) toxicity, as well as nutrient deficiencies of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg).

Conversely, in alkaline environments molybdenum (Mo) and macronutrients (except for phosphorus) availability increases, but phosphorus (P), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu) and cobalt (Co) levels are reduced and may adversely affect plant growth. From the chart you can see that each element can become more and less available to the plants as pH changes. If the pH of your solution is out of the desired range, one or more of the essential elements will become unavailable to the plant, causing nutrient deficiencies, which will result in slow growth rates and poor yields.

Measuring pH

There are a few ways to check the pH of your nutrient solution, e.g. paper test strips, liquid pH test kits and digital pH meters. The paper test strips are impregnated with pH sensitive dyes, which change colour when dipped into the nutrient solution. The paper strip is then compared against a colour chart to determine the pH of the solution being checked. The liquid pH kits work by adding a few drops of pH sensitive dye into a small amount of the nutrient solution and then the colour of the resulting liquid is compared against a colour chart.

The most high-tech method of checking the pH is with a digital meter . All you have to do is dip the meter/electrode into the nutrient solution for a few moments and the pH value is shown on an LCD display. The pH meters are fast and very accurate when properly calibrated. These meters need to be cared for properly or they will no longer function. The glass bulb electrode needs to be kept clean and some are required to be kept wet at all times. pH meters also need to be checked and calibrated frequently to insure accuracy.

Passive vs Active pH

Passive Hydroponics

Passive hydroponic systems consist of growing in containers or pots filled with a medium, e.g. soil, coco, perlite, vermiculite, rockwool cubes, or hand-watering rockwool slabs. Usually for this type of cultivation we would recommend that the grower makes up one large container of nutrient at a time. A 200 litre plastic drum is an ideal container. Once this is made up to the correct ‘strength’ (conductivity), the pH can be checked and adjusted to the ideal level of 5.8-6.2. A careful note should be made of the exact amount of pH UP or pH DOWN that is added at this time. In the future, this amount can be added as a routine when making up solutions and the pH should remain pretty constant from batch to batch, although spot checks are recommended from time to time. Ideally you should use a meter, e.g. a BlueLab pH pen. The nutrient solution in the tank should remain stable and can be applied to plants as needed.

Active Hydroponics

Active hydroponic systems are ones that the nutrient solution is supplied to the plants by a pump system. These systems include NFT, Flood & Drain, Aeroponics, and DWC Systems. In most systems the nutrient solution is re-circulated to the roots continually over a period of time. In an active system the pH will need checking and adjusting in the main tank on a regular basis. In most systems freshwater is added to the tank to replace that used by the plants. The incoming water is usually of a higher pH than the nutrient solution, so there tends to be an upward drift in pH. This can be corrected by the regular addition of small amounts of pH DOWN. This process of pH control can be carried out with pH kit but as it needs doing often in this system, the busy grower would be better off using a meter, e.g. a Bluelab Multimedia pH meter.

Hard Water

Hard water is characterised by high levels of bicarbonates and it makes itself known by depositing limescale in kettles and by reducing the lathering ability of soap. Hard water will usually have a high pH but not necessarily. What will distinguish hard water is that it will take much more acid to reduce the pH than with an equivalent sample of softer water. This is because the bicarbonates have to be neutralised and this uses up quite a lot of acid.

The obvious problem for the grower is that they will be adding quite large amounts of acid on a regular basis. If they are using phosphoric acid this may lead to a build-up of phosphate in the nutrient tank over time. High levels of phosphate in the solution can inhibit the uptake of other elements, zinc for instance and cause general nutrient imbalance. Conversely, you could use a reverse osmosis system to filter your water and then use the ‘regular’ soft water nutrients.

Health & Safety

pH control chemicals are highly toxic and aggressive liquids.

Please follow these simple guidelines for safety and peace of mind:

ALWAYS store these materials in a safe place, preferably in a locked cupboard. Always keep them out of reach of children
ALWAYS wear rubber gloves and protective goggles when handling any aggressive chemicals
ALWAYS dilute pH control solutions before use

What and When to Measure the Variables

Wed, 10 May 2023 12:06:15 GMT

There are a number of factors that can affect the growth of your plants and it is good to keep a consistent check on things....

Temperature and Humidity

Most places in the world measure temperature in Centigrade and some use Fahrenheit. Britain changed from °F to °C in 1962 although to a certain extent still use both measurements. A decent hygrometer such as this one from Essentials will have the option to display one or the other.

Measuring the temperature and humidity of your grow room is something to be done on a consistent and regular basis. When firstly setting up a new grow room it will take a couple of weeks for things to settle. A good idea for this is to get the equipment set up a couple of weeks before you start the growth.

Consider the highest and lowest levels of temperature and humidity that your grow room. As well and influencing the growth of your plants the temperature and humidity also influence each other. During a hot spell a humidifier can reduce the temperature but overusing this can encourage the growth of bacteria.

In another scenario, such as winter, a heater might be used to provide an ideal ambient temperature but the thing to be aware of is that it may dry out the space and affect the transpiration of your plants.

It's all about finding the balance that works in your environment and regularly monitoring the temperature and humidity, along with other factors, will help you to achieve this.

The temperature throughout the growing space is important but the most crucial area is around the plant canopy.

Lighting

Lights don't last forever so this is not one to be overlooked. Buying a decent light meter is a good idea and you can measure the light in candles , footcandles , lux and lumens. Most bulbs or luminaires will have a reference chart to help you adjust your light meter to the correct scale.

Always measure new lights when they are set up and give them about an hour beforehand so that they are fully operational when checking this. Measure them regularly, once a month will be sufficient, and when the measurement begins to decline consider changing them. It's best not to simply wait until they are completely gone!

Just as with the temperature and humidity, the plant canopy is the best place to take measurements.

EC and pH

pH gives an indication of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. It is measured on a simple scale that ranges from 1-14. A pH of 1 is highly acidic and conversely 14 is very alkaline. A pH of 7 is a substance that is neither acidic or alkaline and is regarded as neutral. Pure water is an example of a neutral substance and another one is sodium chloride, NaCl, better known as table salt.

EC is a measurement for the electrical conductivity of a solution and effectively varies according to the amount of dissolved nutrients within it. It is slightly more complicated and is often referred to in terms of ppm , or 'parts per million'. Another common measurement is mg/l which is an abbreviation of 'milligrams per litre' .

Our sources of water are very rarely pure so to establish a baseline measure the pH of your water source. Once you have the baseline a feed chart calculator such as this one provided by ShoGun can give you great help in creating a feeding schedule for your plants.

Pre-mix your nutrient solution in a container and check the pH. This can then be adjusted as required by using pH Up and/or pH Down products. Don't directly mix either adjuster and use them sparingly, a few drops is usually sufficient.

If there are considerable shifts in the pH and EC this can be suggesting that your plants are in ill health. Alternatively there may be a problem within the system. They can both also be affected by temperature, As always, keeping a regular log of things is essential when it comes to resolving problems.

Your Plants

Minimise your direct contact with your plants and always wash your hands when you are going to be in close proximity. Wearing protective, or at the very least clean, clothing will also help to avoid introducing anything into the system that is untoward. However, there are times when tending to them that touching is necessary.

Important aspects of as good and healthy growth include bending, shaping and pruning your plants. This is a useful time to measure and analyse them. Take into account the girth, length, weight, colour and density of the plant, and also of course the flower and fruit aspects.

Environmental factors will cause these to change so taking regular measurements and logging these in charts and graphs will provide a scientific overview of how your plants are growing.

Bigger and Better Plants from their Nutrients

Wed, 03 May 2023 10:29:34 GMT

Get your best yield yet....

Just as how when we don't eat correctly we struggle, it is the same for plants.

Additional nutrients offer your plants another layer of health and protection to help you treat deficiencies and boost your yield. Where it takes a bit of knowledge is providing them without causing burns or discolourisation.

Having a basic understanding is a good thing... plants need light, water and a decent substrate to survive. What makes them thrive is the quality of the nutrients.

The proper amount of nutrients will help to keep the plants healthy and be in optimal condition for the most efficient photosynthetic process. There is a massive difference in the quality of nutrients and therefore do your research before deciding what nutrients you are going to buy. Nutrients that are good quality will help to boost their immune system and fight off fungi and bacteria.

Check your plants regularly

Checking your plants on a regular basis help you to keep them in good condition. You can decide how much light, water and nutrients they get, set the climate and make adjustments as necessary to keep them thriving.

Take time to analyse your plants and figure out what they are telling you.

Common deficiencies include nitrogen , magnesium , iron and potassium . The links will show you exactly what to look out for such as leaf discolourisation, low yields and limpness.

Education and Knowledge

The nature of science is that things are always improving, both by research and experimentation.

Experimentation will take time and often lead to a certain amount of mistakes along the way. Plenty of this is performed by those who design our nutrients and they will market them when they are as close to perfection as possible.

When launched they will also provide feed charts . We have plenty of those published here for you to take into account when nurturing your plants, from the likes of Dutchpro, Canna, BioBizz and many more.

Keep them Thriving

Providing the best quality nutrients will help your plants thrive and using the feed charts will ensure they are receiving the correct quantities. It will also help to keep things consistent.

A few simple tips are here:

Check your plants on a daily basis and look for deficiencies and nutrient burns
Check the pH of your reservoir
Check the PPM of nutrients in your reservoir
Refresh your reservoir on a weekly basis. This will help to remove bacteria and stabilise the PPM
Have access to the right ratio of nutrients.
Be sure not to overfeed or underfeed

The Essential Elements for Good Growth

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 15 Mar 2023 14:40:30 GMT

Below is a list of the essential elements to provide your plants with

Plants need a variety of nutrients just the way people and animals do and certain nutrients will help them to thrive in your grow room. If you know which elements they need then nutrition is quite straightforward....

Big Bloom Macronutrients

Plants get some of the most essential nutrients from air, water and the sunshine (or alternative lighting!) and there are some that must be provided or else they will crave for them....

They are known as "growing elements" or "macronutrients" and are required in large quantities. The elements are nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and potassium (K)

Nitrogen

One of the most important elements and a large amount really helps with the start-up of a new growth. It simulates good healthy cell growth and plenty of chlorophyll which is the green substance that helps with photosynthesis.

Phosphorous

This is another of the elements that is a big-must for photosynthesis so that the plants can get their energy from the source of light. It also helps with the production of cells in the early growth and the flowering stages. It does have slightly less presence as the plant matures and that needs to be considered when mixing the elements accordingly.

Potassium

Very beneficial to the reproduction and overall health of your plants. Because of this it contributes to larger blooms.

N, P, K are the big three elements and also of importance, albeit in smaller amounts, are calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg) and sulphur (S).

Paying attention to the provision of these will contribute to strong and healthy growth of cells.

Micronutrients

The following elements are also important and necessary for the development of your plants. They are only required in relatively small quantities which makes the accuracy of your measurements have more importance.

Boron

This helps with the growth of healthy seeds and roots.

Copper

This works nicely with the nitrogen and helps to give your fruits a delicious flavour.

Iron

This works with oxygen during the photosynthesis stages to help with the production of chlorophyll and energy.

Manganese

This also assists with the energy production, working alongside calcium and phosphorous.

Molybdenum

This helps the plants to consume the phosphorous.

Zinc

A crucial element for a good maturation timescale for plants and the production of chlorophyll.

The above is a basic and straightforward overview. Check out our feed charts for various nutrients to get a more specific guide on quantities, ratios and timescales.

Happy growing!

Reduce Energy Usage

Wed, 22 Feb 2023 12:15:26 GMT

Energy costs have skyrocketed so here are a few simple tips....

Proximity

Keep your lights close to the plants

Don't place them too close otherwise there is the risk of burning them but ideally the lighting should be between 18 and 24 inches from the canopy. This will reduce the potential wastage of energy.

Direction

Aim them at the canopy

By aiming them directly at the canopy it will ensure that no power is wasted and as much of it as possible is absorbed by the plants

Reflection

Use reflective surfaces

Surfaces such as aluminium or mylar will reflect any light that does not reach the plants directly so that it will still be utilised. Aluminium foil is definitely cost effective so line your entire grow room with it.

Mylar is more expensive but is also more durable so in the long run will be more cost effective.

Cleanliness

Keep the light cover clean

A dirty light cover will block out some of the light so give it a regular check and remove any dust or dirt with a fresh damp cloth. Keep it clean and polished to maximise its efficiency.

Timing

Use a timer for your grow lights

Rather than leaving your lights on all day and all night, using a timer will ensure your plants only receive the lighting as and when required. Some plants, especially certain types of herbs, do not need a lot of light.

Efficiency

Use energy efficient bulbs

LED lighting is remarkably efficient in terms of both durability and usage of energy. They also run at cooler temperatures which mean that they will not add additional heat to the grow room that isn't required.

Control

Use a light controller

A light controller can dim your lighting as and when required or turn it off completely when not needed.

Insulate

Thermal insulation maintains the heat

Although certain types of lighting can produce extra and unexpected heat it is still useful to have overall control of the heat within the grow room, particularly in winter. By installing insulation around the grow room this will help to prevent the heat from escaping unnecessarily.

Monitor

Keep a log of your energy usage

This will help you to adjust various factors along the way

Temperature

Temperature affects plant health

Insulation and reflection will of course help with efficiency but it is important to keep a regular check on the temperature because excessive heat can damage your plants

Hydroponics in the Cold

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 18 Jan 2023 11:19:46 GMT

Keep an eye on the temperature and help them to recover when needed

Temperatures and Growth

Plants prefer a temperature above 18 degrees centigrade and the growth will slow down if the temperatures begin to fall. If it falls below 15 degrees they can go into shock and stop growing altogether. When the temperatures improve it can take a couple of weeks for the growth to return to normal. In a worst case scenario they might not recover at all.

Plant Shock

In the cold the plants will effectively shut down. This is what happens when they feel their roots are being attacks and is the feeling that the cold gives. All of the plant's energy effectively goes into repairing the roots and protecting itself. It will stay like that until the situation has improved.

A product called Evoponic can help with this. When added to the food the plants will think it is slightly warmer than it actually is!

When your plants are exposed to cold

Use grow lights and/or a propagator and get them into a warm place. Keep it gentle though as overdoing it will not help the situation.

Some other useful tips are.....

Use water that is at room temperature and don't overwater.
Trim any dead parts so that the plant is not using energy trying to refresh them.
Watch out for bugs, mould and fungus.
Be gentle if they need repotting as the roots are delicate.
Give the leaves a gentle clean so that they can absorb more light.
Check for any rotten roots can carefully trim them if needs be.

Using an enzyme can digest and recycle any of the plant that is decaying.

Plant Shock Symptoms

it can take a couple of weeks for the following symptoms to become visible....

Burn-spots on flowers and foliage
Blackened or softened foliage
Drooping leaves that are wilted
Splits in stems and/or trunks
Loose root balls

Once the plant has recovered from the cold give the leaves, branches and shoots a good prune.

Most of all, keep an eye on the room temperature with a decent thermometer!

Lighting that has LED the way forward!

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 11 Jan 2023 13:54:10 GMT

LED lighting in action in the grow room

LED lighting is definitely becoming the way forward for a number of reasons.

One amazing thing is the length of time that they last. Although they may cost more initially this is a great investment as they will last at least 10 years. As well as saving money this also reduces the dilemma of them running out unexpectedly.

Also, they don't emit as much heat as traditional bulbs so your fans are not working hard to balance the temperature.

And also, importantly, the power usage is a lot lower which is more environmentally friendly and reduces the running costs.

Do they increase the humidity?

Humidity is the amount of water vapour in the air and is closely related to temperature as this is what makes water evaporate. The RH, measured as a percentage, gives an indication of how much water is in the air at a given temperature.

Because LED lights are cooler to run the temperature in the grow room is lower which will affect the RH will be higher.

With a higher RH the less the plants will transpire. This means they will retain more water and nutrients.

Do LED lights affect the CO2 usability?

The grow room temperature is lower with LED lights so you don't need to have as much air circulation to keep the room cool. This means that the CO2 is in contact with the plants for longer.

Can I use them for cuttings?

Yes, they have a great broad spectrum of light emissions which is ideal for both flowering or vegetative growth.

Are they more expensive to buy?

They cost more due to the production costs but they last around 10 years, provide a broader and better quality of light and don't need replacement lamps or reflectors so are definitely a good investment!

pH Levels - FAQ's

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 04 Jan 2023 11:01:07 GMT

The most commonly asked questions about the pH of your grow system

What is pH?

It is based on a scale of 1 to 14, where anything under 7 is acidic and anything over 7 is alkaline. 7 is neutral and is the pH of pure water. The scale is logarithmic, meaning that a pH of 9 is ten times more alkaline that a pH of 8. The same applies to acidity, for example a pH of 4 is ten times more acidic that a pH of 5.

What is the best pH level for Hydroponics?

The ideal range for almost all hydroponic growths is between 5.5 and 6.5.

How do I adjust the pH?

The pH is adjusted by adding an acid to lower it or a base to raise it. There are many pH Down and pH Up products that can simply be added to the nutrient solution.

How does this affect the growth of my plants?

There are 16 atomic elements that plants need for growth and the pH affects the availability and absorption of these. As mentioned above, the best pH range for plant growth is between 5.5 and 6.5. When outside of these levels the availability of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium (N, P, K) is reduced and the absorption of micronutrients can become toxic.

When should I adjust the pH of my solution?

This can be done before or after mixing the nutrients. If you are trying a nutrient for the first time it is worth mixing the nutrient, letting it settle for half an hour then check the pH of the solution. Where it is outside of the recommended range of 5.5 to 6.5 it can then be adjusted using a pH Down or Up product.

Make a note of how much of this is added compared to the amount of nutrient and the volume of water for future reference.

In addition, the temperature can affect the pH levels so keep this consistent.

How often should I check the pH level?

To begin with it is worth checking the pH level on a daily basis until you are sure it has been stabilised within the recommended values. Continue to check it on a regular basis because the pH can remain stable for a fairly long period then rise or fall rapidly when a nutrient needs changing. Hard water can mean the pH will go above 7.5 and it can be reduced either by adding acid or using filtered water.

How much pH Down or Up do I use?

Typically lest than a millilitre is needed per litre of water although this can be slightly more for hard water.

The pH drops after cleaning and refilling

To overcome this simply add a small amount of pH Down or pH Up to stabilise it. Ensure that you keep a clean system with frequent nutrient changes and this should reduce the problem.

Choosing the right Grow Light

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 07 Dec 2022 12:18:19 GMT

Check out the many different types of lighting to choose from....

There are many different types of lighting to choose from, which come in different shapes, sizes and power ratings. A grow light emits artificial light at a high intensity and effectively simulates sunlight for the growth of the plants. The beauty of artificial lighting is that it is always available and you can control how much of it your plants receive each day (and night!)

The result of this is that your plants can achieve the maximum amount of photosynthesis, helping them to flourish with a consistent growth rate and good yields.

Grow lights have different spectrums and levels of intensity which can be adjusted to suit your plants' needs.

The advantages include extended growing seasons, whether it is winter or summer, consistent growth rates and the ability to set up a farm regardless of your location.

Research has shown that using growth lights produces larger, taller plants with a greater number of leaves.

TECHNICAL TERMS

The main technical terms to consider before choosing growth lights are as follows:

Kelvins

Kelvins measure the colour temperature. A high Kelvin rating indicates that the source is producing a sharp white and cool light. A lower rating will produce a warm light with more of a yellow colour. The best Kelvin rating depends on the type of plants you are growing.

Lumens

This lets us know how much of the emitted lighting is visible and it is important to make sure there are enough lumens to cover your growing area. It can be judged either by the lumens or the intensity rating of the light source.

PAR Value

PAR stands for how much Photosynthetically Active Radiation is produced by the light source, the higher the better!

Light Colour

This is also quite important to the plants and also a higher Kelvin rating can help the grower have a better view of what is going on....

Most lighting gives the full spectrum of colours and plants use the "warm" red light for flowering and the "cool" blue light to develop the roots.

THE MAIN TYPES OF GROW LIGHTS

Flourescent Grow Lights

Although they are fairly efficient and do not produce a lot of heat they emit less light than other sources so are not necessarily the number one choice.

Incandescent Lights

These are definitely the least efficient and the most expensive and because of the amount of heat produced they are not the best option.

Light Emitting Diodes (LED)

These are definitely the most efficient and cost effective lighting systems and are the way forward in many scenarios. As well as using far less energy than other light sources they are also durable and very long lasting.

Halogen Lighting

The full light spectrum is produced, similar to natural sunlight. Also they are relatively inexpensive to run they are not quite as efficient as LED lighting.

Metal Halide (MH)

A blue/white light is produced which is useful for the vegetative stage. They emit less heat but are slightly more expensive to run.

High Pressure Sodium (HPS)

They give off a reddish/orange light and help with the flowering stage. They produce less heat than halogen lighting and are considered to be more efficient.

DURATION OF LIGHTING

Plants don't need 24/7 lighting and a certain amount of time in the darkness helps with their metabolism. The beauty of grow lights is their efficiency does help plants to grow faster and larger. Although the lighting time does vary a full 12 hours of lighting per day is good.

A growth timer is a very cost effective and useful tool as it can control this for you.

REFLECTION

Growth light reflectors are great for energy efficiency as they reflect the light back to the plant which ensures that it has sufficient light to grow.

There are many different shapes and sizes available which means you can get the ideal one for your growroom.

HEIGHT ADJUSTER

The height adjuster is effectively a cheap and cheerful device that makes it easy to move your lights as and when your plants grow. This ensures that your plants always receive the optimal amount of lighting.

CONCLUSION

Grow lights are definitely an important part of an indoor growing system and when choosing them it is important to consider a few factors. These include the type of plant (which we will come onto in the next article), the growth stage it is at and the amount of space you have for your setup.

And finally, always feel free to give us a call and we can provide some useful advice on moving forward.

Protect against Pathogens

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 30 Nov 2022 12:16:51 GMT

The immunity system of your plants

PART ONE

The Importance of Nutrients

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 24 Nov 2022 11:10:26 GMT

Find the right mix....

Plants need nutrients just like people do so finding the right balance is of complete importance. For consistency, take the following actions into account....

The ratio of nutrients: Too much or too little can affect the performance of the nutrients so be careful not to overfeed or underfeed. We have plenty of feed charts that can help to create the correct balance.

Replenish your reservoir: If you leave it for longer than a week then the levels of bacteria, CO2, oxygen and general evaporation will affect the quality.

Check the pH, PPM and water temperature: Keep a good track of the strength of the solution and it's temperature. Once again, refer to the feed charts.

Plants need water, light and a good substrate and nutrients are also of uttermost importance. They provide the minerals that plants need to grow and flourish and to keep them in optimal condition for photosynthesis. The quality of the nutrients that are available can vary so definitely do your research.

Nutrients of decent quality will also enhance the immune system of your plants which will help to defend against bacteria, fungi and other deficiencies.

Investment

It is one good thing to invest well in lighting and the overall environment but without investment in good quality nutrients this can effectively be money wasted.

Listen out for what your plants need in terms of nutrients and look out for any deficiencies as mentioned here. Nutrients are the most crucial part of your plants' growth and without a good mix they will struggle.

Dedication

Trial and error is often the best way to figure out the best options and the best way of doing this is to do your research too. Rather than simply learning from your mistakes, read up on things and learn from those who have already made them for you! As well as many articles on our blog our partners at DutchPro also have plenty of great tips for you.

Enjoy!

Keep your Growroom Warm

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 09 Nov 2022 11:33:15 GMT

There are more methods as well as a good old heater!

Winter is upon us! As the days grow ever shorter and temperatures steadily drop, indoor growers may experience tent temperatures too low for optimal growth.

Consider ventilating your grow tent from a lung room: a crawlspace, attic or other room in your home that does not get as cold as the outside environment.

Dim your intake/exhaust fans with a fan speed controller. Some fine tuning may be necessary here. Remember if you’re air cooling your lights, attaching a fan speed controller to the duct fan(s) that cool your lights is also an option as well. We do not typically recommend a thermostat to control the intake/exhaust fans (when temperatures become too cold, they are great for cooling your tent) because we want sufficient air exchange to maintain optimal CO2 and humidity levels. If your grow tent is getting too cold as a result of pulling in cold air, then using a thermostat will simply ensure your intake/exhaust fans are rarely operational.

De-glass your hoods. If you are using air-cooled HID lights in your grow tent, simply passively cooling your lights will drastically warm your grow tent. Not to mention, de-glassing your hoods will also net you 10-15% more available light for your plants.

Create an air diffuser. When cold air is introduced from your intake into your tent, the plants closest to this cold air will suffer if the difference in air temperature between the two is great. In order to not shock your plants, creating an air diffuser is a good option. One easy DIY fix is to simply use flexible ducting. Run a length of ducting from your intake fan long enough to wrap around your grow tent. Next plug the end of the ducting. Then cut small slits every few inches across the length of ducting. Congratulations you have created your own air diffuser!

Add more light. Rather than putting a heater into your grow tent (which is usually not a good idea, depending on the size of your tent this could be a safety concern), have you considered adding more light? If you have not maximized your grow space, ensuring even light throughout, then adding more light is a viable option. Why would you pay more to run an expensive space heater when you can kill two birds with one stone and simply put in an HID or T5 fixture, which yields both light and heat?

Potassium versus Calcium

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 27 Oct 2022 09:56:09 GMT

The importance of the correct ratio

Plants need a good supply of nutrition and two elements that assist with the absorption are calcium and potassium. To get the best absorption the ratio between them is important. However, depending on the conditions, these two elements compete with each other.

The Different Properties

A significant different between the two stems from the ion charge. Calcium ions have two positive charges and when reacting with other elements will form molecules that are insoluble. However, the salts that potassium ions, which have one positive charge, are soluble. As a result a plant will absorb and transport them in different ways.

Because potassium forms soluble substances a plant can easily transport large concentrations.

Calcium is transported in the space between cells and depends on water transpiration for its movement. It can only move from the roots to the stems, whereas potassium can move up and down the plant as required.

Competition Between the Elements

Because they are both positively charged they are effectively competing for negatively charged elements and they both require a connection with these to be transported.

Ideal Ratios

The ideal ratios vary significantly between different plants and the table below gives an indication of this

New Paragraph

The Power of Humidity

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 19 Oct 2022 11:50:45 GMT

Water is one of the most abundant molecules on the planet...

Water is one of the most abundant molecules on the planet and its power cannot be underestimated.

Humidity is the amount of water vapour that is present in the air. Excessive humidity can promote the growth of mould and bacteria and can encourage the presence of pests. Dehumidifiers and humidifiers help you to control the water vapour levels.

Humidity is typically measured as Relative Humidity and abbreviated to RH and It is the percentage of the maximum amount of water vapour that the air can hold at a specific temperature.

There is a direct relationship between temperature and humidity and the warmer the air is the more water it can hold.

A big myth is that plants do not enjoy high humidity levels but in actual fact they do. Playing it safe is a natural reaction to this but careful management of humidity can avoid the bacterial and fungal problems that are often associated with it.

The Science

The water transportation within your plants determines how well they absorb nutrients and stay hydrated. Plants give off water vapour through their leaves and this is part of the transportation process. The humidity of your grow room will affect this.

There is a process known as Osmosis. This is when water moves from areas of high humidity to areas of low humidity. The bigger the difference in humidity levels the faster the water will move. Humidity within plants is actually close to 100% which is of course the highest possible.

Targeting Humidity

If the air is warm then you need a higher RH. It is easier to manage this at lower temperatures because you don't need to humidify quite as much and will need to extract less out it the environment.

Cuttings and Seedlings

When plants are young then a high humidity is ideal. Because they do not yet have roots they cannot lose too much water. Depending on the temperature a RH of 70-80% is ideal. This means that they can focus on growing their roots rather than correcting their own humidity.

Veg Growth

A lower level of humidity is required at this stage and between 50-80%, again depending on temperature, is the level you should aim for. Plants begin to draw water through their roots to replace that lost through the leaves. Because the leaves grow rapidly there is less stress on each leaf so a lower humidity is fine.

However, if the humidity becomes too low the plants will draw more water through the roots and therefore may take in too much fertiliser.

Flowering

Buds will start to form at this stage so to reduce the risk of rotting it is good to lower the humidity. Between 40-60% is good for this period of time.

Products that can help to control the humidity in your grow room include the RAM 12 Litre Dehumidifier , the Sonic Air Humidifier and the RAM Ultrasonic Humidifier

To Flush or Not to Flush

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 12 Oct 2022 13:44:51 GMT

Should you ditch the nutrients during the final stages of your plants' growth?

The two main reasons for flushing your grow system are to clean it before the harvest and to remove any excess nutrients. The latter, in theory, will improve the flavour of the finished product.

There is agreement and disagreement about this so let's take a look!

What, Precisely, is Flushing?

It takes place around the last two weeks of the grow cycle although it can also be done midway through, especially if overfeeding has taken place. It is most often done just before the flowering stage and will help to optimise the NPK (nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium) ratio.

In theory it also makes your plants process all of the nutrients that they have absorbed which as a result means there is a lower nutrient volume and less potential contaminants in the final yield.

Any Doubts?

There are several.....

Some believe that panic can arise, meaning the system is flushed too hard and that it leads to nutritional deficiencies.

Others believe that the option of flushing leads to overall laziness during the growth cycle, and that regular EC checks and feed level checks should be carried out.

'Blind-Tasting' has even been carried out, where a recipient will be asked to compare flushed and unflushed products and it is claimed that there is little or no difference in taste.

And the ultimate claim is that a plant should not be deprived of any nutrients at any stage.

Any Support?

Those in support of flushing will ask.... if plants absorb nutrients then how can flushing the system deprive them of them?

In addition to this, flushing out the system will actually encourage the plants to utilise the nutrients that they have already absorbed. It also means that there will be less chemical remnants attached to your plants that haven't been fully absorbed.

Stress on the plants actually brings about a positive outcome as the late deprivation of nutrients forces them to adapt and enhance their own natural defences.

Overall it is felt that flushing reduces excess salts and nutrients, balances the NPK levels and promotes growth.

Pre-Flush Nutrients

The truth lays somewhere between the middle of both arguments and one thing to be embraced is a pre-flush nutrient. A great example of this is the final flowering booster from Shogun known as Dragon Force

This uses sulphur and sends a signal to the plant to make a final push for growth. It also stimulates the plant's defence systems and enhances the production of resin and aroma compounds.

Using this for ten days, followed by four days of flushing, will speed up the process of maturation and forces faster ripening and gives an all-round bloom of higher quality.

The Right Balance

Overflushing can definitely steal some nutrients from your plants so don't do it too soon and don't overdo it. Too much can reduce the flower growth and resin production.

Find the right balance with a little bit of experimentation and a little bit of flushing will certainly help your harvest.

These flushing products from Canna and Plant Magic are recommended and the video below from Shogun gives some great insight!

Transitioning from HPS to LED

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 28 Sep 2022 10:00:01 GMT

5 grow system variables to manage when transitioning from HPS to LED

Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD)

The key factors to control the plant transpiration and diseases occurrences are, environmental temperature, air moisture and ΔVPD. VPD is affected (function) by humidity and temperature levels.

As you decide to raise the temperature of your grow system , the humidity levels should be adjusted accordingly to the correct VPD range.

VPD translates the difference between the quantity of available air components (O ₂ , water vapor, CO ₂ and others) and the quantity that the air can sustain of those components. Plant transpiration is dependent on the ΔVPD = VPD _Plant – VPD _Air for a fixed air temperature and humidity value.

Water flows from high pressures to low pressures. Similarly, looking inside a leaf that is completely saturated (100% Relative Humidity value) and if the surrounding air is under saturated, the water will evaporate naturally from the leaf into the air as water vapor.

As water evaporates from the leaves, it creates pressure differences that force roots to absorb water together with nutrients and spread this all over the plant to grow properly and develop (transpiration).

Ultimately you are looking for a high ΔVPD value to promote transpiration otherwise low ΔVPD values will lead to water condensation over the plant leaves, thus increasing development of diseases.

You´ve decided to switch from HPS to LED grow lights . Now, you are wondering about how to take full advantage of your new LED lights to grow successfully.

This article provides a brief explanation on how to help you realign your plant growth process parameters when changing from HPS to LED grow light technology.

Five grow system variables to manage when transitioning from HPS to LED:

Adapt the indoor grow room temperature
Vapor Pressure Deficit (VPD)
Effects on HVAC and Dehumidification
Light Quality and Intensity
Irrigation and Nutrition for Transpiration

Adapt the indoor grow room temperature (HPS to LED)

As a long-time indoor HPS user, you are aware about the radiant heat generated by HPS fixtures. The main source of this radiant heat is from the 860nm parts of the wavelength energy which dramatically raises the ambient temperature in any grow system which uses HPS lamps.

Adding to the radiant heat produced by the HPS lamps is the convective heat produced by the electronic power source (control gear) which also circulates inside the grow system

All produced radiant and convective heat will change the environmental conditions and it is fundamental that HVAC equipment is installed to maintain the desired ambient conditions for the particular type of plant you are growing.

This will lead to more energy costs in order to avoid biological plant damage, underdeveloped growth symptoms, problems with fast-drying grow medium and eventually; crop failure!

Of course, this is a clear sign that you need to move on with the transitioning from HPS to LED, replacing all your HPS fixtures by highly efficient LED technology.

Even if you need to balance all the heat loss to mimic the effects of your previously installed HID fixtures, the benefits are clear: Less radiant heat will be produced and less influence of convective heat will happen.

Effects on HVAC and Dehumidification

Your HVAC system settings were set up to control the generated heat from your previous HPS fixtures.

However, the new installed LED technology will operate at lower wattage generating 30-50% less heat whilst producing the same amount or more and better-quality photons.

The replacement of HPS with the new LED technology means less thermal waste, less HVAC air renewal cycles required, less HVAC maintenance interventions, less power consumption and less energy costs for an optimal growing condition at high quality light levels.

Note that your HVAC system dimensions were based on your previous HPS fixtures therefore it may not control humidity like before. To adjust this you may need to add dehumidification equipment.

Light Quality and Intensity

Your new LED fixtures also have a considerably higher light quality = different spectrum.

Its common to use two different bulbs with two different spectrums for vegetative and flowering stage. For example, due to the high number of red photons produced by the HPS bulbs, the effects on plants are to grow taller and develop thinner steams and leaves.

LED fixtures, mainly the ones that produce photons that falls in Full-Spectrum range, are revolutionary on helping growers provide plants more balanced spectrum without the painful and hard work of needing to change fixtures regarding the plant grow stages.

It is well proved that plants growing under a balanced spectrum, grow like the ones that grow under natural light, compared to the applied HPS fixtures.

Studies have shown that implementing Grow Light LEDs in operations previously using an HPS system will reduce lighting energy consumption by between 40-60%.

Without the radiant heat, growers can install LED fixtures closer to the plant canopy, however growers need to be concerned about the limits of light intensity that plant can receive.

As for Increasing the PPFD (Photosynthetically Active Photon Flux Density) to higher levels will be another challenge.

By increasing light intensity, you must help your crop absorb the extra produced photons by checking other environment parameters such as root temperature, humidity, CO ₂ , watering, and nutrients, etc.

Not maintaining the main cardinal parameters of the plant growth process correctly can lead to plant photo inhibition and reducing photosynthetic capacity in response to excess light.

We recommend consulting our grow light strategies to help minimize the overexposure of your canopy and to understand the correct distance to hang your LED fixtures.

Irrigation and Nutrition for Transpiration

Note that with your new fixture’s technology ( transitioning from HPS to LED ), you are about to increase light intensity ( PPFD levels ) that generally leads to faster plant development.

Water and nutrients ration will need adjustments as the photosynthesis ratio increases, but with less radiant heat in the grow room, plant transpiration levels will also decrease. You may need to adjust irrigation levels. The plants may reduce transpiration rate up to 50% that means half of water will be consumed.

Remember that plant transpiration is the water moving inside your plant. Not only water, but water with nutrients. The ΔVPD set the velocity that nutrients together with water is spread internally in the plant.

Thus, a readjustment of all parameters should be done to prevent biological strangulation and ensure optimal growth. Note that the ‘signs’ that you used to read the plants when growing under HPS are now different.

But overall it’s an amazing and easy process. All for the betterment of your grow and Lumatek is all about the efficiency and here to help growers grow!

Greeny Lab!

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 21 Sep 2022 15:12:42 GMT

Our colleagues at Plagron were talking with Rosalien, known as greeny_lab on Instagram .

Did you know plants help improve your health? Our colleagues at Plagron were talking with Rosalien, known as greeny_lab on Instagram . She got into plants a few years back to add structure to her life. Combining her love for plants with her awesome photography skills made an Instagram page a logical next step....

Hi Rosalien! Great collection! What are you hoping to achieve with it?

My goal is to grow healthy, perfect plants. This includes nice green leaves, no crispy edges and a strong root system. I grow plants because I find them beautiful, and they improve the ambiance in my house. But there’s also a more important goal! I’ve gained a lot of knowledge in the past few years, and I want to share it with other people. This way, they too can enjoy beautiful plants like I do. Seeing their results on Instagram is so rewarding!

So how many plants are you growing right now?

Oh dear! Tough question. I stopped counting a long time ago, so you can imagine how much there are! I’ve dedicated one room in my house to my plants. There’s also a sizable collection scattered throughout the house. If I’d have to estimate, I’d say I have about 150 plants. That’s including cuttings and seedlings. But it could easily be more! Most of them are Alocasias and Philodendrons, but I love Rhaphidophora too. And recently, I started growing Syngoniums as well. They fit into my collection perfectly!

With so many plants it must be hard to pick a favourite!

Absolutely! I really can’t choose, so I’d have to let my Alocasia frydek and Philodendron tortum share the top spot. I also like how some plants are just strange. Take my Philodendron tripartitum for instance. Somehow it always grows crooked and in the wrong way, but I still love it!

How long have you been doing this?

As a child, I used to grow tomato plants with my grandfather and I was immediately hooked! I never lost my passion, but it took until about 2.5 years ago before I really got into houseplants. I needed structure in my daily routine and taking care of plants really helped with that. After that, things quickly got out of hand!

How did you first learn about us?

Via Instagram! I was looking for good nutrition and found it very difficult to decide which one was the best. Your grow experts really took the time to help me out and explain everything to me. They really took a look at my specific situation, which I really appreciated. Knowing which products to use and when made the choice to start using Plagron easy for me! I’ve been using your products for over a year now and I’m still very satisfied. I was looking for quality products and you definitely delivered.

Which products are you using at the moment?

I’m currently using Alga Grow as my basic nutrient. Then there’s Power Roots to make sure my plants get a large and healthy root system. I also use Green Sensation to help my flowering plants develop the best flowers possible. Finally, I use Sugar Royal for its amino acids. These acids help my plants deal with all kinds of stress they get exposed too. This means my plants can focus on becoming beautiful instead of having to deal with stress!

Are there any other products you’d like to try in the future?

I’m always looking to try new methods of growing! The other day I started using your Cocos with perlite for some of my plants. To get the most out of this, I’m also using Cocos A&B. I hope that this substrate will have good drainage and provide a good base for the roots to grow into.

What are you hoping for the next time we will check out your grow?

More plants! I’m always hoping for more plants. More room might be nice, too! And of course, I want all the plants I already have to get lots of new and healthy leafs.

Freshen things up with ONA and OCD

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 14 Sep 2022 11:28:35 GMT

Whether it's your growroom or anywhere else, try these fantastic products

ONA products ( such as ONA Fruit Fusion) are perfect if you’re having issues keeping your grows’ aroma under control. This is especially during the flowering period and for when you dry your flowers. Furthermore, it’s extremely effective at getting rid of smoke odours, perfect for those that smoke inside in the kitchen, living room or bedroom. ONA eliminates bad odours and leaves a soft fragrance in the air.

This is not a masking agent up! ONA completely eliminates them with its all natural formula by dropping them to the ground and destroying them. It’s easy to use: you can simply open the lid on the container and set it down, or you can put a little bit in various containers around your house. However, this will cause it to evaporate much earlier.

Another amazing device is the ONA Misting Dome which creates a relaxing atmosphere filled with the pleasant fragrances of ONA, while removing any unwanted odours from the surrounding air. The Misting Dome pumps a steady mist of ONA liquid into the air, which will remove any nasty odours, safely and naturally.

The Misting Domes can be used with the ONA Liquids which come in a wide variety of flavours ranging from Tropics to Polar Crystal.

ONA Liquid is an odour neutraliser in liquid form, dispensed by natural evaporation or by spraying into the air. Containing a complex formula of natural essential oils which will eliminate and neutralise all unwanted odours. These ingredients result in a product that is safe to use around people, pets and plants.

The ONA molecules in the ONA liquid will react with any odourous molecules it comes into contact with and render them null and inert. As a result the smell is permanently removed from the air leaving a fresh pleasant smell behind.

If you prefer a good old aerosol then Odour Control Development is definitely the one to go for as this is when OCD is a really useful tool! On the inside is 750ml of highly pressurised odour neutralising fragranced DEO MAX, ready to blast away unwanted odours and leave the sweet, pleasant smell of Lemon, Orange, Fresh Linen and Bubblegum. But look at that matte packaging, inside and out we do things properly at OCD, so you can trust us to make sure your places smell great all the time, every time!

And ultimately, you can't go wrong with an Odour Neutraliser ... Odour Neutraliser, as the name would suggest, is an odour neutralising formula which encapsulates odour molecules which will destroy or neutralise odours. The product is extremely flexible and can solve a whole host of odour issues and unpleasant smells.

A popular style is the ‘Odour Neutralising Agent’ (O.N.A.) Solid Block - ideal for placing in internal ventilation systems to eliminate odours in office or household environments or used in small areas such as cupboards and closets or even cars and caravans (for larger space not in a ventilation system, we would recommend the gel). To use, you simply remove the lid or cover and place in the target area. The block works by surface area exposure – the more surface area exposed, the faster and stronger the effect.

Keep your household, your neighbours and also your plants happy - try some of these!

Inner Plant Workings - Check the Videos!

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 07 Sep 2022 10:43:39 GMT

The mysterious inner-workings of plant processes explained

Ever wondered about the actual inner workings of your plants as they go through each stage of their life cycle? Or how exactly the plant gets each of the minerals from the substrate and then what exactly it does with each of them?

We have too. So much so we have decided to put together a series of animations from our partners at Canna to go through some of the key processes in fine detail, all set to animations the likes of which would make Pixar weak at the knees. Sit back, get your popcorn out and enjoy!

Take Root

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 31 Aug 2022 14:07:30 GMT

Take Root is a growth stimulant that radically improves the qualities of young plants and their root systems.

Root Stimulator.

Take Root is a growth stimulant capable of radically improving the inner and outer qualities of young plants and their root systems. Our root stimulator specifically targets the roots to create strong and white root systems. Roots are vital to the development of the plant and the creation of energy. Without roots, there will be no fruits. This simple and easy to use product has multiple vitamins and macronutrients that will show you rather than tell you.
Take Root is made with food-grade raw materials and is free of heavy metals. It passed all legislation and is safe to use.

Strong & Healthy Roots.

Roots are vital to the development of your plant. The healthier your root systems are, the stronger and denser your plants will be. Treat your roots well, and they will reward you. Take Root will stimulate your roots to form more white & healthy root hairs to uptake more nutrients.

Take Root contains several plant hormones and micronutrients that boost the cellular division, cell elongation, and nutrients transport, all of which help with overall root development during early vegetative growth. The high-quality components will completely be absorbed and leave no residue behind. More roots, more fruits.

Healthy Cells, Better Results.

Take root provides all the necessary nutrients a plant needs for an explosive hardening of its buds. It works to give the plant an increased resistance against fungi and bacteria related diseases. Explode also works to stimulate the production of the green pigment, or chlorophyll, in the leaves. Chlorophyll turns the water and nutrients into glucose, which improves the photosynthetic process. The photosynthetic process, combined with proper lighting, carbon dioxide, water & Dutchpro nutrients, helps your plants create more glucose(sugar). This ensures that your buds and fruits will increase explosively in weight and taste.

Check out this YouTube video from Dutchpro

If you already have some of the Take Root or are keen to know how to use it then check out these great feed charts for all of the Dutchpro products....

The first chart is for using the products when growing in soil.

This second chart from Dutchpro gives excellent guidance when growing in hydro and coco substrates.

To see all of the Dutchpro products that we have to offer simply click here

Hybrid Machine Dry Trimming Tips

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 24 Aug 2022 12:43:19 GMT

Best practices to achieve a superior dry trim

Hang the entire plant upside down at 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 30% humidity for 24 hours. The next day, raise the humidity to 50-60% for another five to six days. Once dry, carefully buck your flowers and sugar leaves from the stems. Depending on the density of the flowers, they should be then be ready to be trimmed.

The buds should be 80-90% dry, with fan and sugar leaves still bendy and pliable. If larger leaves are too dry and brittle, it can be difficult for the machine to pull stiffer foliage through the drum, preventing a clean sharp cut. To remedy this, raise the humidity up to 75% for about half a day to a full day. Remarkably, this softens leaves without returning additional moisture to the flower.

If raising the room humidity is not possible, and the leaves are too dry, we recommend using a humidifier or a water bottle with a misting nozzle to rehydrate them. This will help re-introduce a small amount of moisture to the leaves, ensuring the trimming machine delivers a precise cut.

You may prefer to run the machine with the plastic cover off and diverter almost fully open, depending on the density of the flowers. Please note the machine operates best when the tumbler is 40-50% full.

Trimming dry product minimizes the possibility of cutting blades gumming up and requiring periodic cleaning, especially when using our Quantanium non-stick tumblers. This reduces downtime and further expedites the harvesting process. Dry trimming has also been praised for preserving natural aromas and flavors post-harvesting.

DEMO VIDEO

The video below is a great example of dry trimming with a CenturionPro machine

Please note CenturionPro trimmers perform optimally when the tumbler is at 50% capacity.

Pest Control

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 27 Jul 2022 10:33:51 GMT

A few simple tips to consistently get rid of bugs

Most growers will encounter issues with bugs from time to time, even if only occasionally. However, there are plenty of safe pest controls to help alleviate this. Most of these controls are plant and environment friendly and there are different products for different situations.

Sprays are a good method and one that is commonly used in commercial agriculture as well. Sprays such as Spider Mite Control and Plant Protection Spray will help to protect against Spidermites, Greenfly, Blackfly, Whitefly, Thunderfly and many more plant pests.

The proprietary formulae include several plant extracts and salts. The combination of these ingredients provide effective protection against spider mites in all stages. With the addition of a foliar nutrient, our spray ensures that plants also get an additional boost to help the plant recover from a mite infestation quicker.

Frequency of Application

Read the product label thoroughly and follow it to the letter. During product development, hours and hours are spent testing them in order to deliver precise instructions. If applied too close to harvest they can potentially leave unwanted residues and although they will not effectively be harmful they can affect the taste and smell of the product.

However, more than one application may be required to deal with several generations of the pests. After one application there may still be eggs in the environment that can develop into a new batch of pests.

Fortefog Fumer

A Fortefog Fumer can be used in practically any growroom. These smoke bombs attack the nervous system of insects and destroys them pretty much in an instant. They do not leave any remnants of an odour and the fuse is non-sparking.

Usage is simple. Just light the fuse and leave for 3 hours, preferably overnight. Repetition after a week will deal with any eggs that hatched afterwards.

The Fumers are ideal for jobs from greenhouses up to professional, large scale operations such as warehouses and factories

BIOPRO Multi-Purpose

The BIOPRO Multi-Purpose bug killer is a powerful and innovative bug killer utilising two of the strongest natural ingredients: Pyrethrins which rapidly disable the insect nervous system and fatty acids which break down insect cell membranes. This fast and effective control of nuisance pests allows flowers, fruit and vegetables to reach their full, natural potential.

it is ideal to use for flowers, house and greenhouse plants, fruits, vegetables, shrubs and trees, all year round.

SB Plant Invigorator & Bug Killer

SB Plant Invigorator effectively kills spider mite, aphid and whitefly whilst at the same time improving plant health and growth rates by naturally and gently speeding up the plants metabolic action.

The net result is plants are free of bugs.

This one can be used weekly from the beginning of the plants' life for maximum effect.

Guard n Aid Rot Stop

Rot Stop is a concentrated preparation of naturally occurring bacteria to promote plant and root health in hydroponics and soil/coir based systems.

Hardier plants can better resist bacterial and fungal infections that cause root rot.

This specific mix of beneficial bacteria when added to your system make conditions unfavourable for the growth of fungi, outcompeting the fungi thus assisting the plant to fight back and regain health and encourage fresh root development.

Click here to see all of the pest control products that we have on offer!

Become enlightened as to who LED the way....!

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 20 Jul 2022 09:59:56 GMT

LED lighting for indoor plant growth has advanced a lot in recent years for both accuracy and energy efficiency

As grow-lighting technology forges relentlessly onward, it’s impossible to make an honest claim to be leading the way. Even the scientists and engineers at the sharp end of LED lighting development tend to be narrowly focussed on a single product type at any one time. They can only be leaders in their own arena. It is maybe more realistic to accept that LED technology itself is leading the way, drawing us onward to a future of immense potential.

When it first became possible to use LED lighting for growing plants, the equipment available was expensive, and tended to be aimed at a target market of large commercial growers or relatively wealthy, technology-enthusiast growers. Early LED grow lighting had its problems too, with over-emphasis on the blue and red light resulting in a purplish light output with insufficient mid-spectrum wavelengths. While it is still possible to find highly priced, specialised LED lighting products, increasingly the LED horticultural lighting market is becoming dominated by products with broader appeal and more reasonable prices. Most growers prefer to find LED equivalents to the HID and fluorescent lighting that they’re accustomed to using. It’s natural that we don’t want to alter our familiar growing methods, we just want to find the best light for the job.

The fast-developing LED grow light market is now most active in substitution, as people renewing their lighting kit consider options which might save on energy or offer fresh advantages. Growers who have up to now used dual-spec HPS Lamps may be tempted to swap them for full-spectrum LED bar fixtures, which will do the same job with less heat output, lower energy use, and a more even spread of light. People who propagated under bulky, fragile cool CFL lamps might nowadays use a lighter, more robust LED bar grow-light, or a plate-format LED with a spectrum including enhanced blues.

Full spectrum plate LEDs may appeal to growers with smaller tents or might be used as supplementary lighting by bigger growers. And of course, TLED grow lights are an obvious replacement for T5 fluorescent tube lights.
But there are also LED lights available now which can make successful growing easier than it has been. For example, with HID lighting, it can be advantageous to tune the light spectrum to the plant’s life cycle. A grower might opt for a metal halide lamp during the vegetative (growth) stage of his crop, benefitting from the increased UV and blue light in its spectrum. At (or just before) the flowering stage he would switch to an HPS lamp to make use of greater light intensity for flowering and fruiting. Full-spectrum LED lighting fixtures now on the market have a higher light output and better efficiency than HID lights and emit PAR wavelengths and intensities of light suited to any stage of the plant life cycle, removing the need to switch from one lamp to another.

Supplementary LED lighting is also becoming available which is very simple to use, and which can add UV and far-red wavelengths of light to either full PAR spectrum LED lighting or to non-LED lighting set-ups. Such lighting must be applied sparingly, for reasons described below. These supplementary lights are usually powered and controlled independently of the main full-spectrum lighting and timed to light for no more than a couple of hours each day, often near the end of the photoperiod. However, they are easy to set up, and purchase and running costs are very low.
The grower must exercise caution – too much UV light can be harmful to plants, and too much far-red light can produce unwanted effects.

Natural sunlight contains three kinds of UV light;

UVA (wavelengths 315 nm – 400nm)
UVB (wavelengths 280 nm – 315 nm)
UVC (wavelengths < 280 nm)

Most UVC light emitted by the Sun does not reach the Earth’s surface, because it is filtered out by the Ozone in the atmosphere. This relatively short-wavelength light has more energy than UVB and UVA and the greatest potential to do damage to both animal and plant life on earth.

UVB light can also be damaging to plants, as it can disrupt the bonds between atoms. Only around 10% of UVB light emitted by the sun penetrates the ozone layer to reach the Earth’s surface. UVB also cannot pass through glass. UVB is both beneficial and potentially harmful to animal life – it stimulates production of Vitamin D, but too much exposure can lead to skin cancer.

UVA light is the least damaging form of UV light for plants, and around 50% of the UVA emitted by the Sun reaches the Earth’s surface.

Grow lights don’t emit significant amounts of UVC light because it has no beneficial effect upon plants. However, there are UVC light-wands available, intended for use as grow-room sanitising tools which kill off microorganisms. With sufficient exposure, UVC light can extinguish any form of life.

UVA and UVB light are known to be beneficial to plants if exposure is limited. While over-exposure can cause harm, short periods of exposure at moderate levels encourage the plant to synthesise its own protection against UV, in the form of terpenes (essential oils) and flavonoids (pigments). These protective substances in turn improve the flavour and colour of the crop.

Far-red is light from a band of the spectrum ranging from the longer wavelengths of visible red light into the shorter wavelengths of infrared.

Plants use pigments called phytochromes to sense the proportion of red light to far-red light that they receive. Phytochromes perform various functions within the plant, including genetic controls, germination and seedling development, chlorophyll synthesis, shade avoidance and adjustment to varying light levels, and photoperiodism (the flowering response).

There are 2 kinds of phytochromes, Pr and Pfr, which convert back and forth from one kind to the other dependent upon the light received by the plant:

Pr – responds to red light by converting to Pfr
Pfr – responds to far-red light by converting to Pr

When plants receive far-red light, the ratio of Pr to Pfr in the plant becomes higher, and vice versa. Plants with an increased ratio of Pr to Pfr tend to react as if they are not receiving a full day’s complement of light. The implications of this depend upon the stage the plant is at in its life cycle.

Seeds need sunlight to germinate and grow. If exposed to too much far-red light, seeds might not germinate, and growth will be stunted.

In the vegetative (growth) stage, too much far red will stimulate the plant to seek more sunlight. It will grow tall, thin, and leggy, with enlarged leaves. The plant will be weakened.

At the flowering stage, extra far-red light received increases the ratio of Pr to Pfr within the plant. The plant reacts as if the day is shortened, and the night is longer. If the plant is a short-day (late summer) flowerer, this increase will stimulate flowering. For long-day (spring) flowering plants, the effect is reversed – less far-red light will stimulate flowering.

The Advantages of Air Circulation

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 13 Jul 2022 09:47:30 GMT

Keep a uniform temperature, lower humidity and reduce the likelihood of mildew

Fans don't necessarily cost a lot but can be one of the best additions to your growroom.

A growing area can potentially get what are known as microclimates which are areas where the levels of CO2, temperature and humidity can vary. These can result in growth differences and possibly a growth of mould in areas where it is excessively hot and humid.

By using air circulation it can help prevent this and also toughen up your plants as they are feeling the sensation of wind that they would feel in a natural environment. Where the stems and leaves are gently moving it makes them become stronger as they continue to grow.

Here are some great tips on how to circulate the air.....

Cool your Nutrient Chiller

You may think that the device that you use to keep the nutrient solution cool will also keep the growroom cool. However, as with all electronic devices, it produces heat to operate. So, although the nutrient solution is cooled down there is an emission of heat near to the actual device.

Point a small fan directly at this and prevent the temperature in this area from becoming too high.

R each the Nooks & Crannies

The corners of a growroom tend to be hotter and more humid than other areas. A small clip on fan can help to alleviate this.

Reduce Humidity

Still air can result in high humidity which can lead on to bud rot, which is known as botrytis. By using an air circulator fan the humidity can be stabilised.

It is worth monitoring the humidity with a hygrometer because you can then accordingly adjust the fan.

Bigger is not always Better

An impulsive thought can be that a large fan will do a much better job than a small one.

Not necessarily though! One large fan will do a good job of cooling much of the growroom but a combination of several smaller fans can keep all areas of it cool.

24 Hour Running

The humidity can increase when the lights go out and as mentioned earlier the extra condensation can cause bud rot. It can also lead to mildew.

If the fans are running 24/7 it reduces the likelihood of this.

Hopefully these tips are useful, click here to check out what fans we have and for any extra advice please feel free to give us a call!

Yellowing Leaves

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Mon, 25 Apr 2022 10:57:55 GMT

Nutrient Deficiency can cause your leaves to yellow

A common term used when plant leaves begin to turn yellow is chlorosis and is due to a lack of chlorophyll.

Chlorophyll is the pigment that gives plants their green colour and is crucial for photosynthesis where the plants absorb energy from the light source.

The chemical structure includes 5 oxygen atoms, 55 carbon atoms, 72 hydrogen atoms, 4 nitrogen atoms and one atom of magnesium.

Finding the cause of yellowing leaves

There are several possible causes and by troubleshooting you can find what needs to be resolved.

Check the following....

Light Levels

Different plants need different levels of light and too little or too much can cause the leaves to turn yellow. It is easy to think that by providing more light the plants will absorb more energy. However, some plants need to be left in darkness for a certain length of time.so leaving the lights on 24/7 can actually cause a problem.

Also, make sure that the intensity of lighting is correct as if it is too intense it will raise the temperature of the grow room.

Temperature

Moving on from this, too high a temperature can cause yellowing. It can also mean that less carbon dioxide will dissolve in the water and this will lead to a higher pH.

Before checking the pH make sure to adjust the temperature of the room and a water chiller or heater can help to balance this.

Water Level

If your plants are growing fast and using the water faster than you are replacing it then the leaves may look both wilted and yellow.

For a DWC (Deep Water Culture) system check that the level of nutrient solution is high enough for the roots to be fully immersed in the solution and able to take enough water.

Nutrient Lockout

One thing that can be baffling is when the nutrients are available but the plants aren't absorbing them. It's a bit like a group at a dinner table where the food is there but nobody is eating it!

What can be causing this scenario is incorrect pH levels.

The ideal range for most plants is slightly acidic and typically between 5.5 to 6.5. The full range is between 1 and 14 where 1 is the most acidic, 14 is alkaline and 7 is neutral (which is what pure H2O water is).

The chart below shows a plant's capability of absorbing the important nutrients across the pH range. Where the line tapers off is where it becomes more difficult to take a specific nutrient.

Monitoring the pH level will help you to keep it within the ideal range and where it is outside of this it will give an indication of what nutrients the plant is deficient of.

If the levels are below 5.0 then the plant is probably lacking in phosphorus, calcium and magnesium.

Where it is above 7.5 then is may well be deficient in iron, boron and phosphorus.

If this is the case, rebalance the pH levels and top up the deficient nutrients. To do this, use either pH Down or pH Up . Do this in small amounts whilst continually checking the pH of the system.

N utrient Deficiency

There is another straightforward piece of science to consider which nutrients are lacking....

If the bottom leaves turn yellow this is the old growth and will be due to a deficiency in one of these.... Magnesium, Molybdenum, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium or Zinc.

Plants will use a method known as mobile nutrient to transport these to the higher leaves as these can absorb the most light. As a result the leaves at the bottom will begin to turn yellow. The more severe the deficiency the further up the plant the yellowing will become.

The most common mobile nutrient deficiency tends to be a lack of magnesium as this is also part of the chlorophyll that is needed for the photosynthesis.

Conversely, the top leaves can begin to yellow first and this would be due to a lack of Boron, Calcium, Copper, Iron or Sulphur.

These nutrients are immobile and cannot be easily transported through the plant. The most common deficiency in this situation is iron and can be caused if the pH is too high.

Which part of the leaves are yellow?

Leaves can be completely yellow, including the veins, or just certain parts of them can be. If the veins remain green and the parts between turn yellow it is known as interveinal chlorosis

Where this is prominent in the leaves it is most likely because of a deficiency of iron, magnesium or zinc. If it is mainly in the bottom leaves then once again it is probably due to a lack of magnesium. If the top leaves develop this first then it is probably because of a lack of iron.

Nutrient Toxicity

Too much of a specific nutrient is known as nutrient toxicity and can actually be another cause of nutrient lockout. Once again, this will cause yellowing.

If there is too high a ratio of one specific nutrient then other nutrients may not be absorbed, even though there is enough of them available.

Outcome

It can be seen that there are several possible causes but checking for them on a one-by-one basis can make it fairly straightforward to narrow them down.

Good luck!

LUMii Black - The Light amongst the Darkness!

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 20 Apr 2022 10:51:15 GMT

The hidden gems for your growroom......

These products are mass-produced. You can’t order them and customise the specification. They’re not fancy, and if you buy some of them, you’re unlikely to be tempted to brag about the fact to your friends. You won’t fall in love with them. You might not even notice them much, because they won’t make demands on your time, they won’t force you to learn how to use them, and they won’t let you down and disappoint you. They will do the job that they were intended to do, and do it well, without fuss.

The LUMii BLACK range derives from a similar philosophy to the Ford Model T. These products are mass-produced. You can’t order them and customise the specification. They’re not fancy, and if you buy some of them, you’re unlikely to be tempted to brag about the fact to your friends. You won’t fall in love with them. You might not even notice them much, because they won’t make demands on your time, they won’t force you to learn how to use them, and they won’t let you down and disappoint you. They will do the job that they were intended to do, and do it well, without fuss.

That is why LUMii BLACK is popular, and why users of these products return to buy more of the same, time after time.
The products are not exciting, but they are reliable, well-tried, and trusted by thousands of contented customers. They won’t break the bank, but their affordability results from good manufacturing, not from cutting corners on quality.

There are no whistles and bells, no features that you might like but don’t really need. None of the components sport designer logos, but everything that goes into LUMii BLACK products has been carefully selected; each little part is of an appropriate quality to perform well for at least the expected lifetime of the product.

That’s what LUMii BLACK is all about. It’s a brand that will give you all that you need for a competitive price. Its products are uncomplicated, reliable, and will serve you well, possibly for longer than you expect. LUMii BLACK products may not thrill you, but they’ll certainly leave you feeling satisfied.

So, what is in the LUMii BLACK range? There’s a list of the currently available products below. But don’t forget – LUMii BLACK is a successful brand, and it is growing. Watch out for more good-quality, affordable, and simple-to-use products coming soon.....

LUMii Black 600W Electronic Ballast

The iconic LUMii BLACK 600W Electronic Ballast is one of the biggest-selling, most trusted electronic horticultural lighting ballasts in Europe. Giving outstanding, reliable performance at an affordable price, this ballast is hard to beat. Silent in operation and cool running, its electronics are soft-starting and safeguarded from power spikes by a protective thermal cut-out.

Dimmable to 250W and 400W, it also has a 600W Boost setting to give around 15% extra light output, dependent upon lamp and set-up.

IEC Output lead - compatible with any reflector
Output settings 250W, 400W, 600W, 600W Boost
Lightweight alloy casing
Available standalone or in lighting kits

LUMii Black Reflector

The classic and ever popular ‘dutch barn’ style winged reflector with integral ceramic lamp holder and 5m IEC cord.

The LUMii BLACK Reflector is made from highly polished alloy panels for maximum reflectivity.

The panels are dimpled for improved light dispersion and to minimise hot spots.

A durable zinc-plated steel spine supports the reflector panels and lamp holder and features two hanging tabs, perfectly positioned for balance.

5m IEC cord
Suitable for lamps up to 600W – E40 fitting
Available in cartons of 10 or in lighting kits
For horizontal hanging

L UMii Black 600W HPS Lamp

A good-quality High Pressure Sodium grow lamp, the 600W LUMii BLACK HPS Lamp is dual -spectrum. Its enhanced blues are more suitable for the growing phase of plants, and its red wavelengths stimulate enhanced flowering. A great choice for the entire life cycle of your crop.

Expected working life 18,000 hours
E40 fitting
Also available in lighting kits
Light output 90,000 Lumens

LUMii Black 4 Way and 8 Way Contactor Timer

LUMii BLACK Contactor Timers are a cost-effective means of scheduling multiple grow-lights to ensure the correct photoperiod for your plants.

The integral contactor is designed to handle the high inductive loads of lighting ballasts and will switch the power on and off without damage to the timer which controls the unit.

Programmable in 15-minute increments, and can be set to “Timed”, “Continuously On” or “Continuously Off”.

Mains input via one 13 Amp plug lead for the 4-Way Contactor, or two 13 Amp plug leads for the 8-Way Contactor.

Power output via one 13 Amp 4-socket bar for the 4-Way Contactor, or two 13 Amp 4-socket bars for the 8-Way contactor.

LUMii Black LED 720W 6 Bar Fixture

If you need good quality LED lighting at the best price, the LUMii BLACK 720W LED 6 Bar Fixture is a great choice!
Powered and controlled by the LUMii BLACK 600W Electronic Ballast (sold separately, or with the LED Fixture as a kit), this high-performing, high-efficiency LED 6 Bar Fixture can be used singly or as part of a lighting array. Lightweight and easy to install, if hung by means of LUMii Rope Ratchets the height of the fixture can be adjusted as your plants grow.
The LUMii BLACK 600W Electronic Ballast, mounted directly on the fixture or positioned remotely, can dim the LED Fixture to 400W or 250W, or the 600W Boost setting may be selected to give maximum light output.

The LUMii BLACK LED 720W 6 Bar Fixture produces full spectrum light ideal for both growth and bloom. Owing to its construction the light distribution over the crop is more even, and the danger of scorching greatly reduced. Its PPF of 1870 µmol/s is setting new standards for LEDs; this, combined with an affordable price tag, makes this LED a must have for any innovative grower.

Full spectrum light
High efficiency
Assists grow room heat management
Lightweight

Become Enlightened to the Science of LED Lighting

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 06 Apr 2022 10:18:20 GMT

Choosing the right product can be easy if you do it properly.

Yeah, anyone can look at a range of similar products, be it shoes, cars, holidays, or baked beans, and quickly decide “That’s the one for me, I love the look of that.” But if you plump for a product just because it tickles your fancy, or it suits the depth of your pocket, you might be in for a disappointment. An attractive appearance or bargain-basement price might be hiding poor quality, bad design, or something that just isn’t fit for your purpose.

It's always advisable to do a bit of research beforehand. In some cases, just ask around your friends, see what they recommend. Call upon their acquired wisdom and experience. It’s better to be told that “so and so bought such and such and it was useless!” than to make the same mistake yourself. And if you hear that half of your mates at the gym already have that phone that you’re lusting after, and they absolutely love it, chances are that it’s a safe buy for you too.

But some items are just so new to you that you need to get educated about them first. Particularly if it’s something technological. If you’re after buying a new TV, a computer, or even a washing machine, there’s a whole new language you need to become fluent in before you can even understand the advertising spiel, let alone decide with confidence.

I guess that you chuckled about the washing machine, didn’t you? Well, I had to replace my old one last year. I wanted one with a fast Economy cycle like the old one I had, so it wouldn’t run for ages and use a lot of electricity. I couldn’t find one, and after a lot of bewildered head-scratching I stumbled across some advice from a manufacturer, on the internet. I learned that washing machines aren’t made that way any longer. “Economy” washing cycles used a lot of water at high temperature to shift the dirt from your clothes rapidly. That’s great, but it’s more economical, and better for the environment, if the machine uses less water. Less water means less electricity needed to heat the water, and heating the water is by far the biggest part of the energy used in a wash cycle. But to clean the clothes properly with less water, it takes a little more time. It proved to be true – my electricity use has reduced since I bought the new machine, despite its longer cycle time. So, if you’re buying a washing machine, be wary of that word “Economy”.

Nowhere is terminology more confusing than the LED lighting market. We growers are used to dealing in Watts and Lumens – the amount of energy that a lighting rig will consume, and the amount of light that it will give out. Simple enough. The more technically minded among us may look into the spectrum that a lamp will provide, or its colour temperature, because we know that certain parts of the visible spectrum are better for photosynthesis, and that different colour temperatures are more suited to propagation, to growth, and to flowering. Armed with the knowledge we have accumulated we can confidently choose the best lighting equipment for our particular growing needs. But LED?

The terminology of LED grow lighting can seem baffling at first. I reckon that it’s best to get behind the sales pitch, the heaps of near-unintelligible data that is thrown at you, and first get down to basics – the plants, and what they need. Excuse me if I seem to be oversimplifying all this. I’m not an expert and I don’t mean to be patronising. I just want to make things clearer.

Plants have evolved to use light, usually from the sun, in a process called photosynthesis. The green leaves of plants contain a pigment called chlorophyll, which the plants use to absorb light energy. This energy is then used to break down water (H2O - mostly taken into the plant via the roots) and carbon dioxide (CO2 - also absorbed through the leaves), and to synthesise carbohydrates – starches and sugars – which the plant uses to grow and thrive. As a by-product of photosynthesis, plants’ leaves also release oxygen, which is waste material to the plant, but vital to animal life, including ourselves.

The Sun gives out an enormous amount of electromagnetic energy. At the top of the Earth’s atmosphere this energy, known as the “Solar Constant”, has been measured by satellite. The Solar Constant is around 1360 Watts per square meter (1360 W/m2). The thickness of the atmosphere, and clouds, screen out a lot of this energy so that only just over half of it reaches the Earth’s surface, mostly in the form of heat and light. The weather, the seasons, the time of day, and the latitude (distance from the equator) also cause the amount of sunlight reaching a particular spot to vary. Plants have adapted to this variable power source, and they don’t need full sunlight to do well.

Plants use white light, which is made up of all the colours in the visible spectrum, which is electromagnetic radiation in wavelengths between just under 400 nanometres (nm) and just over 700nm. The wavelengths of light are very small and are measured in nanometers (nm). A nanometer is one billionth of a meter (1×10⁻⁹ m).

The colours that we see each result from different wavelengths of light, blues having shorter wavelengths and reds higher. Certain wavelengths, or colours, of light are needed for photosynthesis. These wavelengths lie between 400nm and 700nm. That’s roughly the blue, green. yellow, orange, and red part of the spectrum, with the red and blue wavelengths being most important for photosynthesis. This part of the spectrum is known as Photosynthetically Active Radiation (PAR).

PAR is not a quantity of light, it’s the range of wavelengths of electromagnetic radiation (in this case, light) that is used by plants for photosynthesis.

To bind one molecule of CO2 for photosynthesis, a plant needs about ten photons of PAR light. Plants need to bind many molecules of CO2 and so they need a huge number of photons. (The world’s cereal crops alone are estimated to bind almost 4 billion tons of CO2 each year). To keep the figures manageable, instead of counting photons it’s usual to quantify PAR in micromoles ( µmol ). One micromole of PAR contains 6.022 x 1017, or 602,200,000,000,000,000,000 photons.

Plants photosynthesise throughout the light part of the day, (the photoperiod) as photons of PAR light hit their leaves. How much they can photosynthesise is in part dependent upon how much PAR reaches them over time. The rate of PAR availability is known as the Photosynthetic Photon Flux (PPF) and is measured in micromoles per second (µmol/s).

Most LED grow lights will specify a PPF figure. This is the total PAR light output rate of the unit, and one of the most important figures to look out for when choosing an LED light, because it allows you to compare the output rate of different lights. But for the comparison to be a fair one, the LED lights should be about the same size. Obviously, a larger light will emit PAR at a greater rate than a smaller one, and its PPF figure will be greater.

To get around the problem of comparing LED grow lights of different size, some manufacturers use a measure known as Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density (PPFD) which is measured in micromoles per square metre per second (µmol/m2/s). The PPFD simply represents the amount of PAR made available over one square metre of area each second. At latitudes midway between the equator and the poles, at noon on a clear day in midsummer, the Sun emits a PPFD of about 2000 µmol/m2/s (measured at ground level). But PPFD can be problematic when comparing LED lights:-

A large LED fixture and a smaller one might both claim a similar PPFD. But while the larger one might cover (allowing for light spread) a canopy area of up to 1.5m2, the smaller one might cover less than a square metre. Thus to cover your crop with the same PPFD, you would need to buy a larger number (possibly several times as many) of the smaller LED lights than of the larger one.

The PPFD value varies with the distance from the light at which it is measured. If measured close to the light, the PPFD will be greater. It is possible that a manufacturer might choose to measure the PPFD of his light at the minimum recommended distance between light and canopy, but most growers will position the light at greater than the minimum distance to allow for growth and to avoid scorching. PPFD can also be increased by use of highly reflective surroundings.

PPFD is also dependent upon the direction of the light relative to the plants. It will be greater directly below the centre of the light than it will be at the fringes of the lighted area.

Another bit of data to look for when choosing an LED grow light is the Photosynthetic Photon Efficacy (PPE) which is the ratio of the amount of PAR light that the LED grow light emits each second relative to the amount of power it draws. PPE is stated in micromoles per second per Watt (µmol/s/W) or in micromoles per Joule (µmol/J). One Watt = one Joule per second, so no matter which units are used, the PPE value remains the same; 2 µmol/s/W is the same as 2 µmol/J. It’s a simple ratio which can’t be skewed in any way, and it tells you how much PAR (light that is useful to your plants) you will get in return for each unit of electrical energy you will provide. To put it another way, PPE is an indication of how much bang you got for your buck, when you come to pay your electricity bill.

I learned all the above so that I could decide whether to make the change from HID lighting to LED, and then to select the best LED grow light for me. I chose the LUMii BLACK LED 720W 6 Bar Fixture.

Two major factors attracted me to the LUMii BLACK LED 720W 6 Bar Fixture ; its relatively low price, and the fact that it is powered and controlled by a piece of kit well known to growers all over Europe, the LUMii BLACK 600W Electronic Ballast . Much better to deal with a ballast I know than to struggle to get to know a control unit that I never used before. Also, because the ballast isn’t built-in, it is easy and inexpensive to replace in the unlikely event that anything should go wrong. Better still, if I use LUMii Extension / Link Leads I can set up the ballast outside the growroom, so that any heat it may generate isn’t added to the grow environment. I can also dim or boost the LED Fixture from outside the growroom.

Next, I liked its size and coverage. The length of the light-emitting part of the bars is about 1 metre, and the array of 6 bars is roughly 1 metre wide. Allowing for the spread of light from the bars with distance above the plant canopy, it is an ideal size for a grow tent 1.5 metre square. Since I’m investing in the future, I decided to buy a LightHouse White 1.5m2 Tent , because it’s white reflective lining is designed to homogenously reflect LED light and enhance canopy penetration. Weighing in at 7.8 kg, the LED Fixture will hang from the poles of a grow tent without problems, and if I use LUMii Rope Ratchets I can adjust the height of the fixture above the canopy as the plants develop.

But the technological clincher for me was the LUMii BLACK LED 720W 6 Bar Fixture’s impressive performance. Although it doesn’t boast big-name LED chips, the technology and expertise used to manufacture the chips for LUMii BLACK and to build the fixture is the at the same level, and from the same part of the world as top-branded chips. If you want designer-branded goods, you’ll pay more, but you won’t necessarily get better goods. This fixture puts out the full spectrum of PAR light, and is good for propagation, growth and flowering stages – the whole grow cycle.

It's output rate, or PPF, is a massive 1870 µmol/s. Other brands of LED lights with similar output cost far more than the LUMii BLACK LED 720W 6 Bar Fixture. Its PPF is similar to the PPF of a typical 1000W HPS lamp, but with much better light distribution and far less heat output. Because it doesn’t throw out much heat, the LUMii BLACK LED 720W 6 Bar Fixture uses power more efficiently too. It has an efficacy, or PPE, of 2.6 µmol/s/W. So, running at its maximum, the fixture will draw or 720 Watts of electricity.

That brings us to the question which everyone is asking; how can a 720W fixture be powered by a 600W ballast?
The LUMii BLACK 600W Electronic Ballast was originally designed to power 600W HPS lamps. The electronic components within the ballast consume around 30 Watts while providing a full 600 Watts to a lamp. The LUMii BLACK 600W Electronic Ballast also has a 600W Boost setting, at which it will provide 690 Watts to the lamp. While on 600W Boost setting, the total power drawn at the plug will be 690W + 30W, or 720 Watts. It is at this 600W Boost setting that the LUMii BLACK LED 720W 6 Bar Fixture achieves its maximum PPF of 1870 µmol/s.

For me, getting value for money is important. You can buy a LUMii BLACK LED 720W 6 Bar Fixture and a LUMii BLACK 600W Electronic Ballast as a kit for less than most LED fixtures of similar size and performance. And yet the fixture has a working life expectancy of 50,000 hours – that equates to five years and eight months of constant use. An excellent investment.

To sum up all of the above simply: -

Don’t be dazzled by jargon – learn to understand what it means
Some brands are impressive because they are high quality and they cost more. Other brands, like LUMii BLACK, are impressive because they are known and reliable and give you more for less cost.
LED grow lights are far more efficient than HID lamps. The lower running costs will pay back the higher initial outlay.
LED grow lights have a much greater working life than HID lamps
PAR – Photosynthetically Active Radiation – the part of the light spectrum which is useful to plants.
PPF – Photosynthetic Photon Flux – the rate at which PAR is emitted by a grow light, measured in µmol/s.
PPFD - Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density the amount of PPF per unit area, measured in µmol/m2/s. Always consider the actual coverage of the light along with PPFD.
PPE - Photosynthetic Photon Efficacy – the ratio of the amount of useful light emitted to the amount of electrical power drawn, measured in µmol/s/W or µmol/J.

Article produced in conjunction with our partners at Hydrogarden

A Good Diet for Plants

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 24 Mar 2022 12:02:37 GMT

The Hidden Essentials

Plant Life Cycle

Being born, grow and reproduce are also functions of all plants. Without thinking about it, plants give us the oxygen to breathe. These three vital steps make them grow their foliage, blooming, fructifying and small buds become cuttings or the small bomb loaded with genetic information, the lady Ms. Seed.

The base nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is not only their essential diet. Just like in our diet, the calcium of the cheese, the iron of the legumes, the protein of the animal meat and the vitamins of a good natural juice, a balanced diet provide us with some extras that keep our metabolism active.

That is why plants also need a set of extra substances to be able to show off their most gallant phenotype. Their physique will look perfect if they can transport, from their roots or leaves to the tip of the last outbreak, all kinds of vitamins, hormones, micro and macronutrients. If this did not happen, the plant would show signs on its stems and/ or leaves with a difference in colours. By looking regularly to your plants, they will give you key information on what is happening to it since, at the moment, plants cannot speak.

Basics For A Good Diet For Plants

Back to our topic, we want to emphasize the importance of a good diet based on NPK, but also of a vitamin, hormonal and enzymatic supplements. By doing so, the plant can better adsorb the nutrients, helping the plant to grow vigorously and complete its entire life cycle, either annually or stationary. A good assimilation of the nutrients takes place in optimal growing conditions, whether it is the control of the EC, the pH of the soil, Tº and aeration. We must also bear in mind that the relationship between macro and micronutrients occurring in the soil, either in a pot or on the outside soil, paramount important. Because, the mineral salts of organic or chemical origin are always in a compatible format so, the roots can assimilate it as quickly as possible and the stems, meristems and leaves can enjoy a good diet.

Remember, after every harvest, organic gardeners should nourish the soil by using compost because organic materials are taken away from the soil food web.

Feeding Wisely

It is masterly to know that a plant can go picking the food by the radicular or aerial part, either by necessity or by habit (although it will only adsorb food when it lacks it). Over fertilizing is not good apart from losing money and lose fertilizer in each irrigation. If the plant is saturated with nutritive bases, it will not absorb anything from the soil or close stomata from the leaves to receive nothing more. When using organic fertilizer, it is difficult to see overdose because they are not as aggressive or direct as the chemicals fertilizers allowing to a bit of novice distraction. The assimilation of organic fertilizers is slower than other products such as chelates of chemical fertilizers. These are designed to have the most desirable and simple form so that the plant can adsorb nutrients directly without passing through any type of metabolized enzyme or amino acids present in the soil. That is why we must be careful when fertilizing with chemical products and monitor the doses. This is different from organic ones, which give us a margin of error if we make a mistake of dose.

Growing Tips To Take Away

Looking back on what has been said, for the plant to have a good assimilation of nutritive bases of organic formulation, we can help by using products called stimulants or additives. These products are designed to complement the NPK bases, not to replace them. As the name indicates, they are stimulating products, and there are for each cycle of cultivation, whether it is rooting, growing, flowering, fruiting or soil improvers. This type of product is designed to work together with the fertilizer and the type of soil that we have chosen to grow our crops. It always depends if we start from a fertilized soil, or a light substrate style. Since stimulants are designed to support the vital functions of plant (such as the assimilation of sugars), facilitate the flow of nutrients, accelerate photosynthetic processes and improve cell division to give more resistance to certain diseases or possible pests.

New Paragraph

5 Ways to Grow Massive Plants

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 16 Feb 2022 14:01:00 GMT

Roots, Medium, Molasses, Nutrients and...... Training!

Plenty of options are worth taking into account to grow plants efficiently. Here are 5 of the best methods for big plants and big yields....

Bigger Roots equals Bigger Fruits

The roots are not always taken into account because they are out of sight so often out of mind. However, the network of root hairs work in collaboration with the beneficial bacteria and a bigger root enables the plant to feed more effectively. The beneficial bacteria breaks the nutrients in the medium and the food into smaller sized particles that are easier for the plant to absorb.

A fantastic plant root nutrient is derived from seaweed. Containing natural growth regulators and cytokinins they promote the growth of large roots. Felt pots, often known as dirt pots are also great as they allow the roots to breathe. The roots will extend, enlarge the root zone and naturally prune themselves.

Growth Medium

The growth medium effectively contains all of the building blocks for the roots to absorb the plant's food supply and it is worth considering a light and airy medium that has good water retention properties. Consider both the texture and the nutrition when choosing this.

Molasses

Plants use sugar and convert it into energy. Molasses are pressed sugar cane that has a shiny, dark and thick texture and is also rich in carbon mineral along with the residual sugars. The minerals also include calcium and potassium which help your plants to grow strong cell walls to defend against fungus and insects. The carbon is what the beneficial bacteria will feed on.

Adding molasses will substantially increase the fruit and vegetables' final weight.

Nutrients

There are effectively two types of nutrients, micro and macro, that have a big impact on the metabolism and structure of your plants. Micro elements are the most commonly known and consist of potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen.

There are also trace elements, also known as macro, that need to be available for the molecular level of plant growth. Tace elements include copper, sulphur, manganese, sodium, zinc, boron, magnesium and calcium.

For the most abundant plant growth, make sure that all nutrients are available with a nice and healthy balance of levels.

Train Your Plants!

There are two techniques of plant training known as low stress and high stress.

The low stress method involves tying the plant down with string. The results in multiple main shoots growing from the top of the canopy so the canopy is growing bushy and wide. Another method is to pinch the tops of the grow tips which allows new shoots to develop.

High stress is slightly more complicated. It involves snapping the cell walls and can be done with the fingertips until a 'pop' sound is heard. This means the inner cell walls will self-repair, leaving a knuckle where the snap took place. It is also known as super cropping and the plant will provide a natural growth hormone throughout itself to repair the breaks.

So..... this is an overview of the things to consider and taking them all into account will help and support a strong and healthy growth.

Grow Room - What to Measure and When

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 09 Feb 2022 13:56:30 GMT

Temperature and Humidity

Temperature is measured in either Fahrenheit or Centigrade and the humidity relates to the amount of water vapour in the air and is measured as a percentage. A decent thermo-hygrometer will allow you to switch between the two temperature readings styles.

Measuring these is a constant requirement through all of the growing stages. Give a new grow room a couple of weeks to settle and once up and running keep a continuous eye on both variables.

An 'operational window' is the lowest and highest values that your environment can reach. Temperature can affect the humidity, and an example is on a summer's day you can increase the humidity which will also lower the temperature. It's important not to overdo this as it can result in bacterial growth. In the winter you might use a heater but it can also dry the environment. Finding a balance is the key.

The temperature at the plant canopy is of most importance.

EC & pH

EC is the Electrical Conductivity which is effectively a measurement of the dissolved nutrients in the solution. The pH of a solution indicates how acidic or alkaline it is. It ranges from 1-14, with 1 being the most acidic, 14 is the most alkaline and 7 is neutral, in the same way as pure water is. The EC is often measured in parts per million (ppm) or milligrams per litre (mg/L).

As a good starting point, measure the pH and EC of the water being used, straight from the source.

Get your nutrient solution prepared in a container then use pH Up or pH Down to get the pH at the best level, between 5.5 and 6.5, before feeding it to the plants. Don't mix them and use them sparingly!

If dramatic shifts in either the EC or pH levels are observed it could point to either ill plants or a problem in the setup so if a problem is discovered then measuring these should be one of the first solutions to aim for. Bear in mind they can both be affected by the ambient temperature.

Airflow

Airflow is a subject in itself but as a brief overview it is worth remembering that, as with most equipment, filters and fans will wear out as time progresses. Also, check it is fully functional when first bought! To check the speed of the airflow a device known as an Anemometer is useful.

Light Levels

Just as standard household lightbulbs need changing from time to time the hydroponics lighting does not last forever. Lighting is measured in lumens, candles, lux and many more units and a decent light meter will give an indication of how effectively it is performing.

When new lighting is set up give them an hour to fully kick in then take a measurement. Continue to measure it on a monthly basis, with the most important place being at the plant canopy.

Your Plants

It's probably fair to say that the most important thing in your grow room is the plants themselves! To avoid introducing anything unwanted be sure to wear protective clothing and wash your hands on a regular basis.

Bending, shaping and pruning your plants needs to be done frequently and measure the weight, colour, length and girth of them too. Environmental factors will influence these. Let your plants do their thing but always keep a watchful eye out for them!

Why use LED Lighting?

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 02 Feb 2022 16:42:14 GMT

Benefits include energy savings; LED solutions demonstrate the potential to save 40% on electricity and studies indicate that LED-lit canopies can generate more yield per kWh.

Plant and crop performance; initial studies indicate growers using LED lighting may experience yield increases and changes in cannabinoid and terpene profiles, leading to more consistent medicinal product profiles from harvest to harvest.

Flexible light intensity; Many LEDs can be dimmed to adjust PPF level to suit crop and growth stage without changing spectral power distribution or losing efficiency.

Reduced HVAC; LEDs are highly efficient and a less wattage consumption means less heat released into the space, allowing for potentially lower HVAC loads and operating expense.

Safety; LED drivers are intelligent and feature full circuit protection including over/under voltage, short circuit and over temperature protection. LED drivers also feature auto-power increase/decrease to match the amount of light bars connected to fixture.

Check out the full range of LED lighting at the Emporium by clicking the link right here

Microbes and their Benefits

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 27 Jan 2022 14:16:47 GMT

And also their management!

The words 'bacteria' and 'fungi' often make diseases spring to mind but this is not always the case! There are many types of bacteria and fungi that can benefit plants and help to maximise the yields.

Beneficial Microbes

All living things survive by developing relationships with other things and this also applies to plants. Plant roots are surrounded by an area known as the rhizosphere, an ecosystem thriving with fungi, bacteria and various other organisms living on or near to the roots. In a natural environment there is an abundance of these but in an indoor garden this is often not the case due to the sterilisation. However, if introduced and taken care of they can contribute a lot to your growth.

Their Importance

Beneficial microbes can do a variety of things. Directly helping your plants to take in nutrients or can change the nutrients so they are more available to your plants. Fighting off harmful microbes or changing the pH in the environment. Some will even say they affect the taste of your plant! All together it means your plants can grow faster and stronger with little extra effort.

Defence: Often it won't be obvious that a plant is being attacked by harmful bacteria until the stress is actually visible. If the beneficial microbes are present they can either eat or out-perform any harmful ones

Nutrient Uptake: A problem caused by incorrect pH is known as 'nutrient lockout', where the nutrients will bond with one another and become difficult for a plant to take up or too complex to break down. Microbes can take care if this by metabolising and secreting them back to the soil in a form that your plants can use.

Beneficial Microbe Varieties

Beneficial Fungus: This protects plant roots from diseases, insects and various soil toxins. They are also known to increase the rate of plant growth

Beneficial Bacteria: As well as helping to fight off diseases they also provide chemical changes to the growth medium. Some bacteria can help to provide your plants with nitrogen and will feed from pnat nutrients, digest them and produce enzymes that are easier for a plant to use. Some bacteria, an example being Bacillus Thurengensis, will produce an enzyme that kills insect pests.

Microbes Management

You may have heard of micro-management, well now it is time for some microbe management!

Soil: First of all be sure to introduce the microbes to the soil from the outset. Water it thoroughly but if it is overwatered drain off any excess. Keep the environment moist and at a good temperature. Providing extra nutrients such as molasses or kelp will give extra carbohydrates to feed the microbes, which will also feed from the plants.

Water: Pure water is the best! Reverse Osmosis will do the trick here.

Hydroponics: Microbes work really well in a hydroponic system but they need to latch on to the roots as they will simply perish when floating around in the solution. Add them a couple of days before a scheduled water change and this will ensure that no perishing microbes will harm the liquid.

Overall, microbes are great when helping your plants to fight diseases and to take up nutrients. They are like the little helpers that will go a long way to show love to your plants! Check this one out from Biobizz

Ballasts... Digital or Magnetic?

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 08 Dec 2021 13:43:14 GMT

A ballast reduces the amount of electricity being used by a circuit by limiting it and this makes sure that the light bulbs to not take more power than they can handle. Without this the bulbs could burn our or even explode so a ballast is an absolutely essential item.

The two main types of ballasts to choose from are magnetic or digital and both have their advantages so here is an overview.

Components

Magnetic ballasts are a tried and tested device. They contain a core that is composed of steel plates that are wrapped in a core made from copper wire. The magnetic field that it produces regulates the current that is provided to the bulbs.

Digital ballasts use a modern technology. The electronic circuits are what regulates the charge and because they don't generate the same kind of heat as magnetic circuitry they are more efficient. They can be easily customised to generate various power levels for different bulbs and are available in dimmable versions.

Style

Digital ballasts are slimmer and lighter in weight. Magnetic ballasts tend to have a slight humming sound because of the nature of their design.

Features

Because the power output is typically adjustable with digital ballasts only one device will be required if switching between lamps is part of your growing strategy. With magnetic ballasts you would need to have different devices.

To increase the durability of your bulbs some digital ballasts have a 'soft start' option. This slowly releases the power to the lamp. It can also sense when the bulb reaches the end of its life which is a useful warning to replace them in time.

One slight disadvantage with digital is the radio frequencies that are emitted. Despite often having a humming sound the magnetic ballasts do not produce this.

Costs

Magnetic ballasts are often cheaper for the actual device but the long term running costs of a digital ballast are definitely cheaper.

Summary

Digital Ballast

Advantages

Higher output
Can be dimmable
Silent
Compact
Efficient
Lower running costs

Disadvantages

Higher initial cost
Radio Frequency emissions

Magnetic Ballast

Advantages

Cheaper initial cost
No radio frequency emissions
Lower intensity output

Disadvantages

Less efficient
Humming noise
Can get hot
Bulky and heavy

To view all of the ballasts that we have on offer click here

Hydroponics for Beginners!

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 27 Oct 2021 11:46:31 GMT

Much of our food is grown hydroponically and it is easy to do at home!

Hydroponics is a method of growing plants without soil and feeding them using mineral nutrient solutions. Plants can be grown with their roots in the nutrient solution, or in a medium such as clay pebbles or perlite .

Nutrients can be bought ready-made or even derived from fish waste or manure!

The advantages of Hydroponics

Here are some of the reasons to choose hydroponics.....

Fast Growth: Because it is such an efficient way to nurture plants most experts will agree that plants grow at least 20% faster with this method.

No Soil: You may live in an area where the quality of the soil in your garden cannot be guaranteed. Or you may live in an urban area or a flat where there are no gardens! Hydroponics grows plants without soil!

No Weeds! You are starting this grow environment from scratch and will not be invaded by weeds (such as nettles etc etc)

Bigger Yields: The plants can be fed with a certain degree of precision and therefore will flourish.

Water Saving: Grow rooms can use reservoirs that are covered. This means that the water will not seep through the soil or simply evaporate as it does in a garden.

Space Saving: Because of how the nutrients are provided the plants do not need to spread their roots in the search of food. This means that loads of plants can be grown close to each other.

Less Pests and Diseases: Many of these are soil-borne and are therefore eliminated!

T he different types of Hydroponic Systems

There are 6 common hydroponics systems....

Deep Water Culture (DWC)
Ebb and Flow (Flood and Drain)
Wicking
Drip
Aeroponic
Nutrient Film Technique (NFT)

None of these systems need soil and the plants are fed using a nutrient solution. The difference between them is how they serve the air, nutrients and water to your plants.

An easy system to start with is the DWC, Deep Water Culture.

DWC - Deep Water Culture

There are plenty of DWC systems to choose from, such as the Oxypot , and here is a diagram that shows how they work....

These systems need the least amount of materials to get started.

The reservoir is filled with a nutrient solution for the plants, whose roots are suspended into it.

Air is bubbled into the reservoir so that a continuous supply of oxygen is received.

The system is easy to set up and relatively low maintenance.

Lighting for your plants....

Just as plants need sunlight they will of course require ample lighting when indoors.

If you can locate the DWC system where there is around 6 hours of sunlight a day then great.

If not, then there is plenty of artificial lighting to choose from. The size and strength of it does of course depend on how large your growroom is and how many plants so we can advise on this.

Starting your plants from clones....

Rather than starting from scratch with seed a clone from a live plant can be used.

For example, a herb seedling can be removed from the soil and the tiny roots can be suspended in the nutrient solution using a net pot. Be sure to rinse away any dirt from the roots and avoid contaminating your water.

The DWC can then get on with the job!

Make sure your water doesn't harm the plants

Liquids have a pH value that determines if they are acidic or alkaline. It ranges from 1 to 14, with 1 being the most acidic and 14 the most alkaline. 7 is neutral. Tap water is typically between 7 and 8 whereas plants typically thrive when the pH is between 5.5 and 6.3

A pH testing kit will mean you are easily able to measure this.

There is no guarantee that the water you use will be at the ideal pH but this is nothing to worry about! There are pH-Up and pH-down products to easily adjust this.

Nutrients

As with many things there are plenty to choose from!

Advanced Nutrients are effective, especially when it comes to the pH values mentioned above. They can hold the solution in the pH "sweet spot" which means there are less variables to be concerned with.

Getting Started

If you are relatively new to this and have enjoyed what you are reading then feel free to give us a shout and we can help to get you started!

LIGHTING YOUR GROW ROOM

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 13 Oct 2021 10:53:58 GMT

Making the most of the light in your grow room...

To get a good harvest, the density of the lighting is an important factor that is well worth considering to get it spot on. A few scientific principles can be used to choose the equipment and tweak it as necessary to maximise the plant growth.

Coverage

Coverage is typically mentioned in watts and lumens, with numbers such as 32 to 50 watts per square foot being sufficient. However, these measurements by themselves are not enough. The watts, or power of a bulb indicate the electrical input to a bulb as opposed to the actual output. Lumens indicate how much light, visible to the human eye, is output from the bulb.

Additional and useful measurements are the Photosynthetically Active Radiation (PAR) and micromoles per joule.

Photosynthetically Active Radiation (PAR) and Photosynthetic Photon Flux (PPF)

PAR is the spectral range of light that can be used for photosynthesis by photosynthetic organisms. Photosynthesis is how plants effectively feed themselves from natural or artificial light sources. The amount of PAR is measured with PPF, Photosynthetic Photo Flux , in micromoles per second (μmol/s) . 700-800μmol/s is the optimum rate for good growth.

The PPF can be raised to higher levels such as 1400μmol/s but the possible problems from this are higher temperatures and of course an increased electric bill! So, sticking to the optimum rate is ideal.

However, PAR cannot, by itself, be used as the overall measurement. It does tell us the type of light that is needed for photosynthesis but doesn't tell us which type of light a lamp actually emits. An additional measurement of use is the Photosynthetically Useful Radiation (PUR) .

To explain what PUR indicates, think of it like this..... plants are typically green because they reflect green light and therefore we see this as their colour. So, the PUR indicates what light the plants can actually absorb and effectively feed from.

Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density (PPFD)

Another measurement worth being aware of is PPFD, Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density . This is a measurement to show how much PAR actually reaches your plants. It is measured in μmol/m2/s which is short for micromoles per square metre per second.

The power of light will diminish as it continues to travel from its source. So with that in mind a good product to choose will tell you the light intensity for several different heights rather than just the centre of the grow space.

Another good consideration is the Photon Efficiency. This will give you an indication of how much power, in watts, the lamp will use for a given level of PPF.

A decent lamp will provide all of the information mentioned here and give you the opportunity to be as efficient as possible.

Positioning

Choosing the best position for your lamps needs you to use the Inverse Square Law. This rule shows that as you double the distance from the light to the plants it will then deliver a quarter of the power. If the light source is too far away it will waste energy. Too close and you risk burning the plants.

Reflection

Reflective sheeting in the grow room is useful to prevent light from escaping and to prevent natural light from entering.

A lamp reflector will guide more of the light towards the plants. Choose carefully..... too large a reflector will cause heat stress and too small will provide uneven growth.

The SCROG Technique

The SCROG technique is short for The Screen of Green which is a method to encourage uniform growth. An artificial canopy is made from wire and placed between the lamp and the plants. As the plants reach it they will weave into it and create a level plane. This allows more efficient light penetration across the entire plant.

Conclusion....

Plant growth is a science in its own right and as with many sciences it depends upon a lot of variables. Feel free to call us for a chat about them!

5 Type of Growing Systems

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 01 Oct 2021 14:00:21 GMT

Drip Irrigation systems

Dripper systems pump the nutrient solution from a reservoir, or nutrient tank, through tubing and literally drip water into the top of the pot. Recirculating systems collect the run off and reuse it. Plenty of systems require an electric pump, but some are gravity fed. You can set the system to a particular feeding regime through the use of timers.

Media: Theoretically, almost anything can be used as a growing medium with a dripper system, but if you’re using a recirculating system anything small or loose can get into the system and potentially clog it up. There are fixes to this; sleeves, sheaths or socks that act as a filter, but having a strong element of clay pebbles in the mix will go a long way to preventing the problem.

Drip irrigation systems are arguably the most easily automated systems – they’re particularly favoured by commercial growers. Automation can breed laziness; a recirculating system can spread disease and viruses right across a system, so it’s important keep it clean and regularly check your system.

Gravity Fed Systems

Sometimes called bottom-fed systems, these systems use gravity to feed nutrients into a tray at the bottom of the pot. A valve automatically regulates the flow of water depending on how much the plants use. To be honest, these systems are more often called Autopot systems, because Autopot has led the way in their design and utilisation.

Media : particularly popular with soil growers, much like dripper system, gravity fed systems can be used with almost any medium. Autopot provide ‘PotSocks’ and plates that keep the system clear from blockages exceptionally well.

Gravity fed systems are far and away the least labour intensive and the cheapest to run system available on the market. Again, it’s important to not let laziness set in; regularly check your system for any problems. The key here is to get everything set up in good time; prep the system before you pot your plants and remember to set your tank higher up than your system – that’s how gravity works!

Flood and Drain

Also called Ebb and Flow systems, they alternate between flooding the root zone with a nutrient solution, then draining it away to oxygenate the roots. Particularly popular with the DIY crowd, these systems use an electronic pump. Tinkering with feeding regimes often become an artform – but you can buy ‘bucket brains’ with some systems that do the thinking for you!

Media: You’ll need a relatively heavy medium that won’t float, but still holds air. Perlite and clay pebbles are often in the mix, as is gravel in some cases. Rockwool can be very effective too.

Flood and drain systems aren’t traditionally seen as a good method to start with – but I don’t think that’s fair. You can learn a huge amount about how your plants grow, and when you get it right the results speak for themselves. Perhaps the margin for error and learning curve are both a little higher, but it’s a popular method for good reason.!

Nutrient Film Technique (NFT)

NFT is the best example of a seemingly complex system that is actually very simple to use. A thin stream of nutrient solution is pumped across the root system before flowing down a slope and recirculating through the system. Again, an electronic pump is used, in this case to provide a constant flow of water.

Medium: a fibrous spreader mat is used to break the surface tension of the nutrient solution. Some systems use rockwool cubes to hold plants in place, but if you’re keen on another particular medium, this isn’t the growing system for you – your nutrient solution does all of the work.

When problems do arise in an NFT system, they can spread quickly and need resolving expediently. Keep an eye on your pH levels. It’s very important to prevent light from entering the root zone, too. Get it all right though, and your plants will be decidedly impressive with a simply fantastic root zone.

Deep Water Culture (DWC)

With DWC, roots are suspended in a net above an oxygen-rich nutrient solution. Air stones and pumps are used to oxygenate the water. DWC systems are arguable more resilient to environmental changes, and many of its practitioners report rapid and extensive growth beyond the capacity of other techniques.

Media: If you’re using nets, Rockwool and clay pebbles work a treat, but again, they’re really there to support the structure of the plant and all the heavy lifting is done by your nutrient solution – so regular monitoring of pH and EC is a must.

Hybrids and others

Aquaponics, aeroponics, and the many hybridisations of the different techniques will need an article of their own – which isn’t to say you can’t start off with them, but the techniques above are better suited to beginners. You’re very likely to run into problems with any grow – that’s part of the learning process, but if you keep the elements listed here to mind, and regularly monitor your grow, you should be able to catch and fix them.

Effective Germination

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 29 Sep 2021 12:11:18 GMT

A Guide to Effective Germination....

What is Germination?

There are 2 industry-standard ways to produce new plants. Through germinating from seed or by cloning a plant by taking a cutting. Another more high-tech method is tissue culture but this requires high levels of sterility and the correct conditions and media to do so. Germination has always been a key part of propagation and is generally how cultivators produce new plants.

Germination is the basic process of a seed developing into a plant. This only occurs when environmental conditions are favourable. The radicle is the first part of a seedling to emerge. The radicle is the embryonic root of the plant, and grows downward in the soil, this then develops into the taproot and is the initiation point for all other roots that will form during the plant’s lifecycle. At the top of the radicle, the hypocotyl forms and will then push through the media in the opposite direction of gravity to reach a light source. Typically the seed shell would be pushed by the taproot/hypocotyl and the first leaves, known as cotyledon, would begin to open, nudging the seed shell off the plant.

Seeds are amazing dormant little packages of food and genetic material ready to burst into life when certain environmental conditions are correct. In order to get the best results out of your seeds below are some simple hints and tips to help get consistent germination rates.

How to Speed Up Seed Germination...

In order to maximise your chance of sucess when germinating seeds you should have on hand some basic equipment. To achieve the best possible results when growing from seed you will need a propagator and your choice of media to sow the seed into (This could be tissue paper, soil, coco, rockwool cubes or peat plugs / Jiffy pellets).

We suggest that whichever media you decide to sow your seeds into you use a solution of water and a rooting stimulator such as Katana Roots to pre-soak. Once your seeds have sprouted and your first true leaves as opposed to coyledons have emerged we suggest a specific feed tailored for the needs of establishing young plants – Shogun Start is ideal as it contains lower levels of macro nutrients (NPK) than standard feeds but elevated levels of the micronutrients a plant needs to establish.

MOIST, DARK AND WARM.

Certain environmental factors play a huge role in the process of germination. The 3 essentials you need to keep in mind are moisture / humidity, temperature and darkness. When a seed is in dark, warm and wet conditions, it’s outer shell will gently crack and produce a radicle. If the root breaks through and environmental conditions are too dry, the seed will die. To stay healthy and growing a seed needs constant access to water. But there is a fine balancing act as too much water can result in damping off to occur. The critical success factor when germinating from seed is a warm, moist and aerated environment.

In the majority of cases, seeds will germinate better in warmer temperatures and high humidity, which again speaks for the importance of moisture. Moisture and humidity continue to be a key factor when the first true leaves begin to form as younger plants generally respond better to moisture in the air and media. Ideally, 21-22 degrees C is the perfect temperature for germination but any where between 18-24C is the range to aim for, Humidity needs to up to at least 80%, hence the need for a propagator to help maintain this.

Hello darkness my old friend! The abscence of light is a signal to the seed that triggers the plant hormone phytochrome for long enough to establish germination. In the presence of light phytochrome takes on a different form which does not trigger germination in most cases.

PLANTING DEPTH, SEED ORIENTATION.

If you are using the paper tissue method, where you place seeds between wet tissue paper until they germinate rather than directly into media it is thought to be important to plant it right away in your chosen media, and a lot of growers say it is wise to plant it with the root facing down, but this is not strictly necessary as nature always finds a way.

What is necessary is the planting depth, we believe you should plant knuckle deep.

If you are starting from seed and transplanting into a hydroponic system we would advise to start off in coco coir because it offers the least resistance for root growth.

If you choose to use an inert media such as rockwool cubes, it is important to pre-soak it in a weak pH-adjusted nutrient solution, Shogun Start is perfect for this.

SCARIFICATION

This is the technique of weakening a seed so that water and air can enter a lot easier. Doing this will speed up the germination process but care must be taken so as not to damage the embryo of the seed.

A simple method is to use a matchbox lined with sandpaper. Place a square piece inside the bottom of the box and shake well for about 60 seconds. Alternatively place a couple of seeds on a piece of sandpaper and gently rub for 30 seconds. Don't overdo it though!

With some seeds it is easy to see a line around its diameter and sometimes it can be peeled away. This will reveal the naked white seed inside which will germinate faster as it does not have to break through the shell. Pinch the seed, ridge side up, and scrape with a knife to create an opening.

SEED PRIMING

Priming can also speed up the germination. It can also help prevent fungal disease which may already be on the source of the seed. Priming is soaking the seed in a seed soak / nutrient solution for 24 hours then allowing it to dry out completely. It can then be stored in dry conditions until you are ready to plant it. This starts a chain reaction in the seed to start the germination. Once it is primed and dry the process will stop but as soon as the conditions are right the seed is already halfway to germination and the tap root will emerge quicker. A week nutrient solution can also help with this and a common commercial practice to sterilise the seed is with a weak solution of ethanol.

Seven Humidity Mistakes....

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Mon, 27 Sep 2021 11:30:04 GMT

Here are the things to easily watch out for!

A surprisingly large number of plant issues such as chlorosis or leaf curling can actually come down to the simple cause of humidity - something which can be easily overlooked!

Here we look at 7 mistakes that can cause this....

Not Checking the Humidity Levels

The Relative Humidity (RH) level is important and crucial but not everybody has a full idea of what it is or why. RH is important to your plants' productivity and when incorrect can also result in deficiencies and toxicities. A hygrometer will do you proud when checking the humidity!

Humidity too Low

Water is brought into plants through the roots by osmosis and evaporates through the leaves via tiny holes called the stomata. This is called transpiration and the dryer the air is the easier the water evaporates. So a low RH will mean the plants will draw more water through the roots to compensate for the water loss via evaporation.

As a result salts get left behind in the growing media. It can also result in a nutrient build-up and lockout which leads to magnesium and calcium deficiencies.

A humidifier , or even some wet sponges in the environment, can help to overcome this.

Humidity too High

A high RH does the opposite, it reduces the amount of water the plants will draw from the soil or nutrient solution. Calcium is one nutrient that will be affected as it naturally relies on transpiration for this. The plants can eventually rot as a result.

Firstly, be sure not to overwater your plants!

In addition, an air conditioner and/or a dehumidifier can help to keep the correct RH.

Sealing the growroom, removing stagnant water and reducing the density of plants can also help.

Temperature too High

If the air temperature is too high then more water will evaporate. However, warm air actually holds more moisture than cold air so does not become saturated as quickly. So warm air actually has a lower relative humidity.

Once again, air conditioning, ventilation and a dehumidifier can help with this.

Temperature too Low

A low temperature means that water droplets form as the water vapour in the air condenses. This is like you will see on the garden grass or panes of glass in the winter.

One thing it can cause on plants is botrytis or other fungus.

Something to remember is that temperatures in the surrounding environment will drop during the hours of darkness so the growroom temperatures can be balanced somewhat if the lighting periods are overnight.

Proper insulation and a tube heater can also help.

Not Noticing the Signs of Humidity

A low humidity will cause the leaves to curl down, whereas a high humidity will cause the leaves to curl upwards. As simple as that.

Calcium deficiency, grey mould or botrytis are also signs of high humidity and tip burn is a sign of low humidity.

Not Being Flexible

There is no magic number for the best humidity but if you keep monitoring things then these levels are a useful guide to know:

During the vegetative stage, temperatures of between 21 and 28 degrees centigrade will prefer a humidity of around 65-80%. At night this should be 15-23 degrees with a humidity of around 55-70%

Once the fruit and flowers begin to form, a lower humidity will reduce the risk of disease. Between 55-70% is great for both day and night times.

Ultimately though, keep a consistent eye on things and watch out for the symptoms mentioned above and they can be relatively easy problems to avoid and overcome.

CO2 Enrichment Advantages

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Sat, 25 Sep 2021 13:00:02 GMT

What is CO2 Enrichment and do your plants need it?

When implemented correctly, C02 enrichment can increase yields by 15-20%. Interested? Below we will discuss the equipment needed, and if C02 enrichment is right for you.

Atmospheric CO2 is approximately 350-400 PPM. Maintaining adequate air exchange in your indoor grow ensures that CO2 levels are close to atmopspheric CO2 levels. When a room is enriched with CO2, typically the PPM’s are between 1000-1500: that is between 3-4x greater than atmospheric levels!

Safety first. Keep in mind that heightened levels of CO2 can be dangerous. Limit your exposure. Work in your grow room in short increments of about 10 minutes max. Or simply turn off your CO2 enrichment, wait till the PPM’s are near atmospheric levels, then begin work. Working during the lights off period is also a viable option; look into green lights that won’t disturb the plant’s photo-period. If you begin to feel light-headed or dizzy leave the space immediately!

C02 enrichment works best in a sealed grow room. What does with mean? There is no air exchange with the outside environment. This means no intake/exhaust fans. Make sure your air conditioner does not pull air out of your grow room (most portable AC’s for example). Air cooled lights are generally not recommended, as most are not completely airtight, and will draw air out of your grow room. This also means that excess humidity cannot be vented out, and a dehumidifier is usually a must.

What type of equipment is needed? A good way to introduce CO2 into your grow room is directly via CO2 tanks.

Is this method right for you?

CO2 tanks are safer to use, and we offer a tank on a one-off deposit which we can then refill as required.

Tanks are better than generators as generators do pose a potential fire hazard if knocked over, or if it comes in contact with flammable material. Generators usually must be hung securely and at least a foot or more from the ceiling.

For smaller grow spaces the Exhale Homegrown generates CO2 and one ExHale Cultivator will provide 4-6 plants with the CO2 they need.

The Components

Now what you have decided which system is right for you, lets break down the necessary components.

A Co2 tank system will require a CO2 regulator, or solenoid: this device attaches to the C02 tank and allows the user to manually control the flow-rate of C02.

Both systems (CO2 tanks or generators), will require a control device that senses the PPM’s of CO2 in the room and turns the generator or CO2 regulator on the tank on or off as needed.

We do not recommend attempting to calculate the time needed to fill the room to the correct PPM and attempting to use a timer in place of a CO2 controller.

There are simply to many variables and miscalculations can be costly and even dangerous. (Imagine walking into your grow room and the PPM’s are 4000!

What would happen? Here’s a hint, not much would be alive).

Finally, keep in mind that during the lights of cycle, CO2 is not required and the plant will actually use oxygen instead. Therefore it is helpful to purchase a CO2 controller with a photocell: that can sense when the light is on or off.

Elite Harvesting Solutions

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 23 Sep 2021 10:55:26 GMT

Elite harvesting solutions provide throughputs up to 3000 lbs of wet crop per hour (600 lbs per hour dry). This is jaw droppingly impressive, but what do throughput numbers mean and how do they convert to grow size?

A machine’s throughput capability represents its top processing speed. Machines with an insufficient throughput can hinder the harvesting process and cause costly delays. If harvesting solutions provide surplus throughput, they may represent an unnecessary investment and increased upfront cost.

In this article we are going to take a look at the machines from CenturionPro...

To streamline operations and boost profitability, growers need to select the right bucker and trimmer for their grow size. To simplify the process and to ensure you select the right harvesting solutions, we are sharing the CenturionPro product selector.

The product selector determines which trimming and bucking machines best suit your needs, based on any one of the following:

Square ft. of indoor plant grow

Square ft. of greenhouse plant grow

Acreage of outdoor plant farm

Yields depend on a wide range of genetic and environmental factors. For the CenturionPro product selector we used industry averages where available, which can be found below.

Yield per:

Square ft. of indoor plant grow: 0.087lb

Square ft. of greenhouse plant grow: 0.04lb

Acreage of outdoor plant farm: 2204.62lb

*product selector calculations are based on a 40-hour operating time*

These averages are useful industry benchmarks, but actual yields can vary based on a number of factors. To more accurately forecast required throughput, consider these elements when using the product selector.

ENVIRONMENT

When genetics are accounted for, the role of the grower is to provide the perfect conditions to maximize yield. Crop size can vary greatly subject to cultivation environment, whether that be indoor, outdoor or in a greenhouse. To boost harvests growers aim to provide optimal lighting, plant nutrition, temperature and humidity. This is much easier indoors, where light exposure, nutrients and climate can be closely controlled.

INDOOR GROWS

Lighting

A high-performance indoor setup typically provides 40-50W of artificial light per square foot of canopy, with anything less reducing yield. To calculate the amount of artificial light provided per square foot, growers need to divide the total wattage of all the lights in the room combined, by the size of the room.

Example

In a 15,000 ft ² grow room, with 5 x 75,000W lights (375,000W total):

375,000W / 15,000 ft ² = 25W per ft ² .

In this example the amount of light available per square foot is nearly half that is considered optimal. As a result, it wouldn’t be surprising to achieve half a plant’s maximum yield.

If lighting has been insufficient, adjust the figure in the product selector for a more accurate reading:

30,000 ft ² with 25W per square feet may yield the same as 15,000 average ft ² of indoor grow.

Plant Nutrition

After light exposure, the quantity and quality of nutrients delivered to the plant is the second largest contributor to yield. Consequently, most commercial growers rely on hydroponics to ensure plants receive the required inputs to realize their potential.

If you have experienced under or over fertilization, leading to reduced growth, again adjust the figures in the product selector for more accurate results:

30,000 ft ² of indoor space under fertilized may yield the same as the 25,000 average ft ² .

Heating and Ventilation

Temperature and air circulation are crucial, but often overlooked, environmental factors that impact yield. If the temperature or humidity is too high, plants may wilt and attract pathogens. If temperatures are too low photosynthesis decreases, and plant growth may slow or stop altogether.

If the climate has been unfavourable to cultivation amend the product selector input:

30,000 ft ² of indoor space with inadequate temperatures may yield 27,500 average ft ² .

OUTDOOR GROWS

Outdoor operations are less confined by space and benefit from the best, and cheapest, light source available – the sun. For outdoor growers, forecasting yield and throughput is essential to accelerate the harvesting process. This reduces time to market and can provide farmers valuable early business opportunities, before supply meets demand later in the season.

Lighting

The geographic location of a farm is a consistent environmental factor, with latitude affecting daylight hours and the length of the season. Therefore, a farmer in Colorado may expect to produce more than the 2000 lbs of flower per acre, while a farmer in Washington may accept less. Annual flowering plants need eight hours of sunlight minimum, with unshaded south-facing sites maximizing the amount received.

If the season has few sunny days, adjust the data processed by the product selector for a better reading:

15 acres of plants with more sunlight than expected may yield the same as 20 average acres.
30 acres of plants in a season with inadequate sunlight may produce the same as 15 average acres.

Plant Nutrition

Site location also plays a major role in soil quality, which can be maintained and improved by fertilizer and irrigation. As the size of plants increases so does their ability to consume large amounts of water.

If plants haven’t been able to secure the right nutrient uptake, this should be factored into the product selector inputs for a more realistic result

15 acres of plants that experienced drought may produce the same as 5 average acres.
30 acres of plants with insufficient fertilization may equal the average yield of 25 acres.

GREENHOUSE GROWS

Greenhouses enable sunlight to reach plants and trap infrared radiation to heat the environment. Greenhouse growing combines aspects of both indoor and outdoor cultivation, offering a degree of climate control at a lower cost than an indoor operation. In conditions suited to outside growing, greenhouses can amplify the natural climate to boost yields with little added investment.

Lighting

Greenhouses harness the power of the sun, but supplemental lighting can be added to maximize photosynthesis. Supplemental lighting is often a necessity based on the site, with some locations enjoying more sunlight than others. For instance, a greenhouse in Vancouver may need double the additional lighting than in Arizona.

Based on your greenhouse’s lighting, amend the product selector accordingly for a more accurate reading:

A 15,000 ft ² greenhouse without lights could yield that of the average 30,000 ft ² greenhouse.

Plant Nutrition

As greenhouses raise temperatures, plants grown in these environments need frequent irrigation. To maximize greenhouse yields facilities may be integrated with hydroponic systems. This ensures plants receive optimal fertilization, in addition to a constant supply of water free of hard minerals and chemicals.

If an irrigation system was implemented to maximize plant nutrition, you may receive a better reading with adjusted data:

10,000 ft ² greenhouse with hydroponics may produce the same as a typical 5000 ft ² greenhouse.

Heating and Ventilation

While greenhouses provide some protection from the elements, the climate is still significantly impacted by the outside temperature. As a result, many are rigged with heating and ventilation similar to an indoor grow.

If the greenhouse environment was closely controlled by extensive heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems, modify your input on the product selector accordingly:

A 20,000 ft ² climate-controlled greenhouse could yield the average of a 25,000 ft ² greenhouse.

EXPERIENCE

Every harvest is unique with different responses to environmental changes, nutrient solutions and training methods. When using the product selector, growers should predict harvest size based on genetic and environmental factors in combination with experience. If the environmental fluctuation wasn’t dramatic enough to have a significant impact on yield, for example, growers should use their best judgement and take this into consideration.

THROUGHPUT SPEED

While harvest size can be difficult to predict, the desired harvest time is usually a fixed deadline to fill a delivery window.

Analysing this timeline, in connection with expected yield, identifies the throughput capacity required in trimming and bucking machinery.

Example

20,000 lbs of plant needs to be trimmed in 40 hours:

20,000 lbs / 40 = 500 lbs/hr dry weight for required throughput

In this instance the grower may be best suited to the CenturionPro XL 10.0, which can trim 600 lbs of dry plant per hour.

LOOKING TO THE FUTURE

When forecasting yield and required throughput, outdoor farmers should accommodate for wider variations than their indoor and greenhouse counterparts, due to reduced environmental control.

For efficiency, the main motivation behind yield and throughput forecasts, it is always better to have too much harvesting capacity than too little.

As the industries continue to develop, investing in a bigger machine today may protect you against increased throughput tomorrow.

The best trimmers and buckers also have diverters, enabling growers to customize processing speeds during the expansion process.

Temperature Control and Grow Room Cleaning

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 08 Sep 2021 11:42:17 GMT

Excessive heat and bugs can wreak havoc on your growth and can easily be controlled...

Among many other things 2021 has been a bizarre year in terms of weather and after a wet and mild Summer we are now experiencing a brief heatwave at the start of Autumn which could cause an invasion of the dreaded bugs.

There are plenty of simple things we can do to prevent or eliminate them...

Fumigation

Fumigation is a chemical treatment that completely fills an area and deals with the pests. An example is the Fortefog Fumer which is fantastic time saver and very cost effective. It is available in various sizes for different grow rooms and is ideal prior to setting up a new growth.

Bug Barriers

Bug barriers can be placed over air intake fans to prevent the intake of insects whilst the fans are helping to maintain the temperature. The ones from RAM come in a range of sizes for different fans.

Protection Spray

Protecting your plants from bugs whilst also feeding them is a pleasant idea and there are various sprays or additives that can do this. An example is the Spider Mite Protection Spray whose proprietary formula includes several plant extracts and salts. The combination of these ingredients provide effective protection against spider mites in all stages. With the addition of a foliar nutrient, this spray ensures that plants also get an additional boost to help the plant recover from a mite infestation quicker.

Do a regular pest check

Pests can always sneak their way in so even when you are using the prevention methods still check for them once a week. Take a look at your plants with a magnifying glass to find any. These are the ones to look out for...

1. Spider Mites – These will show up as yellow spots on your plant leaves.

2. Leaf Miner – Imperfections in your leaves and loss of color.

3. Fungus Gnats – Small black flies that move quite slowly.

4. Aphids – Deformities in your leafs and stems with a sticky substance on your leaves.

5. Thrip Larvae – These show as silvery-gray trails across your leaf tops along with small black deposits.

Temperature

The weather is often unpredictable and keeping a constant temperature is crucial to prevent plant wilting and dehydration. Consider a fan upgrade if required and do this early so that the plants are not in the way of where you need to place it.

Buying extra fans such as clip-ons or pedestal fans is an ideal method because they don't require any extra installation and can be used as an when required.

A speed controller can control the power of the fan and help to keep the temperature to the required value.

Water Quality

Sat, 04 Sep 2021 13:00:02 GMT

Using filtered water leads to better root growth and reducing the chlorine protects the micro-organisms in your soil

Nutrients and Roots

The electrical conductivity (EC) of the water solution is determined by the salts and nutrients and the optimal level for plants is between 1.4 and 2.2.

The EC is affected when nutrients are added so by lowering the water's EC we can add more nutrients without going above the maximum. This can be done with Reverse Osmosis (RO).

By reducing the salts in the water we can also prevent issues such as limescale.

The EC is easy to measure with an EC meter.

The EC of the nutrient solution can also be lowered by adding fresh water to dilute it further.

Avoid Limescale

Water with a high EC is often that which produces limescale and can contain high levels of magnesium and calcium. The plant roots can become saturated by this to the point they are pretty much blocked from absorbing the required nutrients. This is known as 'nutrient lock out'.

Examples of this are where the leaves are yellowed, dried or the plant growth is stunted and this is a common problem both indoors and outdoors.

If we start with water that has a low EC then we have far more control over this.

Microorganisms

Microorganisms can be great for plants and they can eliminate worms and other parasites. However, if the water has too high an EC they can struggle. Chlorinated water can kill them before they get to work.

Good quality water is always a good starting point...

Best Growing Conditions

Thu, 02 Sep 2021 11:56:19 GMT

The best growing conditions for hydroponic plant growth rely on light, temperature, humidity and atmosphere.

A grow room can be set up practically anywhere if the main contributors to a plant's growth are taken into consideration. Think about a garden on a nice summers day where we have a good atmosphere, plenty of light, a decent temperature and ideal humidity. A good indoor growing system provides the ideal conditions for your plants to flourish.

Lighting

Plants naturally depend upon sunlight to grow so lighting is one of the most important things for successful indoor growth. Horticultural lighting is becoming more economical and cost effective.

The most efficient way to provide this is in a darkened environment where all the lighting can be timed and provided on a schedule. Alternatively, if growing in a greenhouse, the lighting can be timed to provide extra hours during the darker months of the year.

A very important thing to consider is the amount of light reflection in the growing area and getting the most amount of reflection in the room will provide an effective amount of energy.

Temperature

Most species of plants grow best between 20-28 degrees centigrade, with the optimal value being in the mid 20's. The lighting used for growth also provides heat so during this period is is relatively easy to maintain the ideal temperature.

There can be times where the heat becomes too high and there are a variety of extractor fans that can help to reduce this. The fan can be linked to a thermostat to ensure that it switches on and off according to the temperature in the grow room.

When the lights are off the temperature will lower, especially in the colder months of the year. For these times it is important to have heating , which can also be controlled by a thermostat.

Most plants do best when the ambient temperature is kept at a consistent level and with a combination of a fan, a heater and a thermostat this can be fairly straightforward to achieve.

Humidity

Humidity is the measure of water vapour in the air and is important to control to ensure the health of your plants. If the growroom is too humid for lengthy periods it can result in the growth of mould such as Botrytis. Mould can quickly spread and damage your plants.

A device that can help to monitor this is a hygrometer . This instrument is mounted on the wall and will constantly analyse the humidity. Ideally it will be lower than 50% and if it does go above this an extractor fan will help to reduce it.

To reduce the likelihood of high humidity ensure that any spilled water on the floor is quickly mopped up.

Atmosphere

Plants rely on carbon dioxide to survive, just as animals rely on oxygen. Just as we would struggle if left in a sealed environment, plants will also suffer in the same way. So it is important to ensure there is a constant and efficient supply of CO2.

One method of this is to ensure that there is an airflow into the growroom. Leaving a door or a window open can achieve this but it will have an effect on the temperature.

Alternatively, bottles of CO2 can ensure the plants can effectively breathe and a regulator can monitor the levels in the growroom and release it as and when required.

How to Heat your Grow Room

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 01 Sep 2021 15:11:10 GMT

It hasn't been the warmest of summers and winter will soon be upon us so this video gives some great advice on how to keep your growroom nice and warm for your crops!

Click here to see what is available!

Indoor Growers: Know The Pros And Cons Of LED Grow Lights

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 26 Aug 2021 14:16:58 GMT

If you grow indoors, you need grow lights. But they can’t just be any lights. They must be capable of providing the type of light your crops need to boost healthy development and yield incredible flowers

You may have noticed that in recent years, the light-emitting diode (LED) has increased in popularity among growers. But you’ve likely also heard growers talk about bad experiences they’ve had with LED lights, recommending high intensity discharge (HID) lights instead. HID grow lights have long been a go-to choice, and there is a lot of useful information on how to use them effectively.

So, what kind of lighting system is best for your grow op?

In this article, we’ll break down the pros and cons of LED grow lights. Read on to learn more about the advantages and disadvantages of LED grow lights so you can decide for yourself whether they’re the right choice for your indoor grow.

The History Of LED Lights In The Grow Community

Compared to HID lights, LEDs are relative newcomers to the grower’s toolbox. Like every other kind of technology, a lot of early LEDs simply weren’t that effective. Many of them were too dim to provide plants with the sufficient amount of light they needed, which pushed early adopters to stick with other types of lighting. However, today’s LED systems have seen a rapid evolution, and they’re now better optimized than ever for growing.

Advantages Of LED Grow Lights

Are there substantial advantages to using an LED system as opposed to HID lighting for your indoor grow?

Actually, yes.

LED grow lights have become popular with growers for good reason — they offer many benefits that other lighting systems don’t. Advantages of choosing LED lights for growing plants indoors include:

Efficiency
Temperature
Lifespan
The spectrum of light they provide
Their size
Greater Efficiency

Nearly every grower who recommends using LEDs for growing plants will talk about the efficiency of such a lighting system. LEDs are in fact way more efficient than HID lights, which translates to lower utility costs for you.

Cooler Temperature

LEDs run significantly cooler than HID bulbs. HID systems can become extremely hot, putting crops at risk of heat damage, and can even become fire hazards when they’re used in small spaces. (Learn more about the importance of moderate grow-room temperature here.)

Longer Lifespan

LEDs offer more than just improved efficiency and cooler temperatures. You’ll also get more grow hours out of your LEDs — a lot more. LED grow lights typically last for 50,000 hours or more, whereas HID bulbs generally last 10,000 to 18,000 hours, depending on the specific type of bulb. When it comes to longevity, there’s really no competition.

The Full Spectrum

A major advantage of using LED grow lights is the huge spectrum of energy they provide. When you choose LED, you don’t have to worry about switching out lights as your crops mature through their growth cycle. Even better — you can actually install a system that’s tailored specifically to the type of crop you grow.

Less Bulk

Are you growing in close quarters? If so, that’s another reason to go with LEDs, which have the distinct advantage of being able to fit into smaller, tighter grow areas. This advantage goes hand in hand with the cooler temperature of LEDs — not only can you create a more compact grow room, but your crops can grow fairly close to the lights without the risk of heat burn.

Keep in mind that heat burn isn’t the same as light burn — being too close to any type of light bulb puts your crops at risk of suffering from light burn. Reduce the chance of your crops facing light burn by keeping them within the ideal distance from your LEDs — 12 to 18 inches.

Disadvantages Of LED Grow Lights

As you can see, there are some big advantages to choosing the LED route for your grow room. But before you go running to the store to stock up on LEDs, let’s take a look at the pitfalls of this system.

The truth is, like any kind of artificial lights, LED grow lights have a downside. These disadvantages include:

Power level
Blue light
Upfront cost
Risk of light burn
Lack of standard specs across manufacturers
Less Powerful

Simply put, HID lights are more powerful than LEDs. More power means more intense light, and more intense light means complete nourishment for the entire garden.

Blue Light: Good For Plants, Bad For You

Your crops thrive on light from the blue end of the spectrum, especially when they’re in the vegetative stage. Your eyes, on the other hand? Not so much. Prolonged exposure to blue light, one of the types of light that LED bulbs emit, can damage your retinal cells.

An LED System Is A Big Investment

Many growers are turned off by the high upfront costs associated with LED lights. Buying an LED system means making a larger initial investment than that of a similarly powered HID system, but a little bit of math reveals that you’ll actually save money in the long run when you go with LEDs because of their high efficiency.

Light Bleaching Risk

Light burn is a type of damage your crops can suffer when they’re situated too close to the lights, turning the leaves yellow then white. As the leaves lose their natural color, they also lose potency and aroma. Over time, plants that have suffered light burn produce bleached flowers that ultimately have nothing to offer your consumers.

No Standard Specs (Yet)

Unlike HID lights, LEDs don’t have standard specs across different manufacturers — that means more homework for growers. When you choose LED grow lights, you have to do thorough research about the specific system components you’re getting. If you don’t, you run the risk of buying incompatible parts or struggling to compare the quality of said products. This probably won’t always be the case, however. As LED lights become more mainstream, expect their specs to become more standardized.

So, Are LED Lights The Best For Indoor Growing?

As you can tell, there are definitely some advantages to going with an LED system, but whether they’re the best choice for indoor growing depends on a few factors. For a lot of growers, the low temperature, efficiency, lifespan, size and spectrum of LEDs make them ideal for indoor grows. Other growers, typically those running large-scale operations, prefer HID lights because they provide the most intense light. Of course, HIDs come with their own challenges — they consume way more energy than LEDs, and also force the grower to invest in additional equipment, like protective hoods and exhaust fans. But if your main goal is to maximize the quantity of crops that your garden produces, then HID is probably the way to go.

100,000sqm Hydroponics Farm planned for Northants

Wed, 25 Aug 2021 15:27:52 GMT

More than 100,000-sq-m of polytunnels to grow salad and fruit could be built in Northamptonshire countryside

A 'vertical hydroponics farm' with more than 100,000-sq-metres of plastic tunnels to grow salad and fruit could be built in the Northamptonshire countryside.

Courteenhall Estate wants to diversify its farm with 76 polytunnels on 15.7-hectares of agricultural land between Courteenhall and the M1.

West Northamptonshire Council's strategic planning committee has been recommended to approve the scheme by a planning officer.

"It is considered that the general over-arching policy support for farm diversification slightly outweigh the harms to the character and appearance of the site and landscape, which are already mitigated by the site’s specific context and surrounding topography and woodland - and can be further mitigated through landscape management," the officer's report states.

Vertical hydrophonic farming involves growing crops upwards on columns without soil inside polytunnels, which minimises the use of pesticides and reduces overall water usage.

Courteenhall Estate wants to convert part of its land for this with 103,607-sq-metres of polytunnels, measuring 8.8-metres wide and seven-metres tall, as well as tanks for the water system.

A series of water recovery basins would be formed to take the run-off from the roofs which can also be used for the irrigation of the plants.

A 6,519sqm area of hardstanding is required for staff and HGV parking and access for loading produce, with underground drainage tanks for drainage underneath.

The access road, which currently serves East Lodge, would be extended and three passing bays would be added.

The officer's report says the scheme will create approximately 30 full-time jobs and increase the quantity and quality of produce, in turn reducing food miles.

No objections have been raised - Courteenhall Parish Council commented 'it is good to see a unproductive area brought into production, and provide new jobs and investment'.

Source of Information: Northampton Chronicle

Soil vs Hydro

Thu, 09 May 2019 12:07:41 GMT

The best method and why....

Soil is of course Mother Nature's traditional method of plant cultivation and hydroponics is the man made methodology that stems back thousands of years. It was used by the ancient Egyptians and the Chinese as far back as 600BC and experiments to ascertain the plant composition for modern hydroponics go back to 1600 AD.

When done with care and passion both methods can deliver great results but as with much of evolution the science does bring its advantages.

Here are some of them....

Water Savings

Hydroponics is a water based growing system so how on earth can it possibly save water?

Well, bizarre as it may initially sound, it actually uses about 90% less water that the traditional soil rooted growth!

Hydroponics is typically in a sealed system so there is far less evaporation
Water does not drip out of the bottom of the container or seep further into the ground
Water is effectively recycled using a recirculating nutrient reservoir so the only water that is used is that taken in by the plants

The water that is added to a hydroponic system is only utilised by the plants and a day's worth for soil can last a week with hydroponics.

Less Weed

We are referring to the likes of crabgrass or dandelions here!

Without a bed of soil there is no place for these to take over and prosper which means less time on your knees evicting them and more time tending to your crop.

Control

Watering and feeding can be completely automated and are not impacted by the weather as an outdoor growth would be.

Referring to the above, the lack of weeds also avoids you losing control!

There are many automated feeding and watering systems available in store which gives you more time to enjoy and focus on your crops.

Space Savings

When growing in soil, the water and the nutrients spread throughout the soil. This means that the roots of the plant have to reach out to absorb as much as they require. As the plant grows, the roots have to reach out to seek more food and drink.

Within the hydroponic system the roots are constantly surrounded by a circulating nutrient solution with a constant strength. Therefore they have all the calibrated food and water they need within close and easy reach.

Less of a Pest

Much as outdoor gardening or indoor soil cultivation can be lovely some of the creatures can be a complete pest!

Similar to the preference of weeds, many pests and plant diseases can only thrive when associated with soil medium.

Growing up Fast

Traditional outdoor growing does of course rotate according to the seasons.

Indoor growth production is enhanced because it can be in effect all year round.

Where hydroponics has a massive timescale advantage is due to the points made above, in particular the control of watering and feeding.

Plants in a hydroponic system have a consistent and stable supply of their nutrients and water. The control of this means that with a bit of research and experimentation a great level of precision can be obtained.

From this precision the plants have exactly what they need within easy reach and will grow much faster.

Hydroponics and Indoor Growing

Thu, 25 Apr 2019 14:59:30 GMT

The Frequently asked Q&A's

We get asked a nice variety of questions here at Emporium and think it will be a good move to give a nice roundup of them along with the potential solutions....

How often should you water indoor plants?

If your plants wilt just after watering than you are watering too much, and you should allot a little more time in between waterings. A good general rule of thumb is to start plants being watered about 2 to 3 times a day and increase as plants show signs of needing water.

Why are my hydroponic plants not growing?

Although not as common in hydroponic crops as those grown in soil, mineral deficiencies, such as low levels of nitrogen or phosphorus in the nutrient solution, can slow flower and fruit development and cause drop. Flower drop can also be caused by water stress (either a lack of irrigation or high EC levels).

What do you need to grow with hydroponics?

Hydroponics is a subset of hydroculture and is a method of growing plants using mineral nutrient solutions, in water, without soil. Terrestrial plants may be grown with their roots in the mineral solution only, or in an inert medium, such as perlite or gravel.

Do hydroponic plants need sunlight?

Yes, or they can thrive very well with artificial lighting too

How long can hydroponic plants go without water?

By using watering systems such as wicks, capillary matting, and hydroculture, you can keep most plants happy for two weeks or even more. The plants that need the least care are those grown in sealed terrariums. They can often go for years without water!

What should the PPM be for hydroponics?

Most plants in soil grow best in pH 6.5 – 7.0 conditions, while hydroponically-grown plants prefer slightly more acid conditions. You should aim for a pH of between 5.5 and 6.5. This is the range within which nutrients are most available to plants.

How can I make my plants grow faster and bigger?

Inorganic fertilizers provide immediate nutrients to plants and help them grow faster. Organic fertilizers take longer to release in the soil, but they create a healthier soil over time. If your goal is to take an existing plant and make it grow faster, then use inorganic fertilizer.

Why are my hydroponic plants leaves turning yellow?

Magnesium Deficiency. By far the most common nutrient deficiency in hydroponicsis magnesium deficiency. ... Since magnesium is the central element in chlorophyll, the bottom leaves develop interveinal chlorosis – the veins would remain green, but the tissue between the veins would begin to turn yellow.

What do I need for a hydroponic system?

In a solution system, the plant roots grow directly into a nutrient-filled solution. In an aggregate system, such as gravel, sand, or small clay pellets, the roots grow into the medium. In each method, the system supplies the three essential ingredients plant roots need to grow: water/moisture, nutrients and oxygen.

Do you need an air pump for hydroponics?

Truth be told, not every hydroponic system needs an air pump. ... Of them, using ahydroponic air pump is the easiest method. Not only does an air pump help create more dissolved oxygen in the water for plants but it also helps prevent algae and disease growth in the reservoir.

How many times a day should I flood and drain?

In these conditions the pots should be flooded more often, up to once per hour. The same room during cooler conditions, with a higher humidty, will mean higher nutrient strengths can be used and the number of feed cycles can be reduced to once every 2-3 hours.

Is EC and PPM the same?

A quick answer to why we should use EC instead of TDS. The debate over EC and TDS has been an ongoing issue for a long time. These two measurements are used to determine the strength of hydroponic solution. ... TDS stands for Total Dissolved Solids and is measured in PPM or parts per million.

Why does hydroponics work so well?

With hydroponics the plants are grown in an inert growing medium (see below) and a perfectly balanced, pH adjusted nutrient solution is delivered to the roots in a highly soluble form. ... The energy expended by the roots in this process is energy better spent on vegetative growth and fruit and flower production.

Carbohydrate Supplements

Mon, 15 Apr 2019 00:00:00 GMT

How To Increase your Plant Yield

As a grower, you’ve likely read about increasing yield size by supplementing your crop’s feeding regimen with carbohydrates. You may have also seen various carbohydrate supplements for plants on the shelves in the store. And you may have even heard seasoned growers talk about the benefits of the simple carbs found in molasses.

But what’s the real truth about carbohydrate supplementation for plants? Is there any actual benefit to using such supplements, and if so, what are the best carbs for your crop?

In this article, we’ll dive deep into those questions and more. But first, let’s understand exactly what carbohydrates are and the roles they play in plant growth.

Plant Carbohydrates 101

Put simply, carbohydrates are compounds made of oxygen, carbon and hydrogen. However, carbs can take many different forms, including as cellulose, starches and sugars — which can be further broken down into monosaccharides, disaccharides and polysaccharides, depending on the number of sugar units contained within the molecule.

The Function Of Carbohydrates In Plants

Carbohydrates are essential to organic life and play several significant roles within plants.

Firstly, carbohydrates in the form of glucose serve as a primary source of energy, fueling various plant functions, including growth. Secondly, the carbohydrate cellulose serves as the main structural component of cell walls within plants. That’s right — carbs are heavily utilized in the construction of your plant roots, shoots, stems, leaves and blooms.

In fact, glucose is the primary and most abundant product of photosynthesis, providing crops the energy as well as the building blocks they need to survive and grow.

The Benefits Of Carbohydrate Supplements For Plants

At this point, you may be asking yourself, “If my plants produce glucose naturally through photosynthesis, then why would I bother feeding them supplemental carbs?” It’s a valid question, so let’s break it down.

You see, during the vegetative stage, your plants are not just synthesizing glucose through the process of photosynthesis — they’re also manufacturing and storing carbohydrate reserves for later use once production slows down in the flowering stage.

When ripening sets in — during which time your flowers and blooms make their biggest weight gains — carbohydrate manufacturing comes almost to a complete halt and your crops must rely solely on their carb reserves to power flower production.

Ultimately, your plants will produce enough carbohydrates on their own to survive, provided all the other basic requirements for life are met. But it’s not enough to merely survive; you want your crops to thrive, and to push the biggest, heaviest yields they’re genetically capable of. Adding a quality carbohydrate supplement to your plant feeding regimen can help you achieve that.

But how? Here are a few key ways:

Providing your crops supplemental carbs frees up energy for other vital processes. Put simply, it takes energy to make energy — so by providing extra carbohydrates, your crops expend less energy on manufacturing carbs, and can direct more energy toward synthesizing amino acids and other important metabolites.
Supplemental carbohydrates keep your plants’ carb reserves topped off — particularly during ripening, when they need it the most. Remember, your plants’ carbohydrate reserves can store enough to survive, but if you want them to push the biggest yields possible, you want to ensure those reserves are always full.
Extra carbohydrates help feed beneficial microbes in your root zone so they can carry out their vital functions of fending off harmful microorganisms and disease.

How to Apply a Carbohydrate Supplement

When it comes to feeding plants, there are two generally accepted methods: Foliar application and root system application. But when applying a carbohydrate supplement, root system delivery is definitely preferable.

Spraying supplemental carbohydrates onto your plants’ leaves can be risky. Sugars are a form of carbohydrate, and sugars are sticky, which means you run the risk of gumming up your leaves’ stomata, the pores found in plant tissue through which they exchange oxygen for carbon dioxide. Additionally, sticky leaves may be more attractive to harmful insects and pests.

Clearly, root system delivery is ideal for carbohydrate supplementation in your high-value crops.

Molasses as a Carb Supplement

So, what about molasses? If you’ve been in the grow game long enough, you’ve probably heard about using molasses, which contains simple forms of carbohydrates like fructose and sucrose, as a supplement.

The truth is that molasses can be a valuable supplement — if you’re growing in soil. However, for hydroponic growers, molasses simply is not the best choice for a couple of reasons.

First of all, gooey molasses can easily clog up your system’s lines, as well as cause residue buildup in your reservoir, grow medium and even the roots themselves. Residue buildup in your root system is especially dangerous, as it can lead to such complications as root rot.

Secondly, molasses — and other forms of over-the-counter sugar — are wildly inconsistent when it comes to quality and composition. And when it comes to your valuable crops, you need to ensure the most high-quality, reliable, consistent supplementation possible.

A Decent Alternative

Now that we understand the function of carbohydrates in plants and the benefits of carb supplementation, let’s talk about the best carbohydrate supplement for the special crops you grow.

Our partners at Advanced Nutrients recommend the Bud Candy

You see, it’s not enough to feed your crops just any ol’ carb supplement. In order to get the most benefit — and biggest yields possible — you need to use a supplement that is tailored to the exact needs of the high-value plants you grow. And that’s exactly what Bud Candy is.

So, what makes Bud Candy the ideal carbohydrate supplement?

Bud Candy boasts a variety of high-quality carbohydrate sources: Carbs come in a variety of forms — from simple sugars like monosaccharides, to complex compounds like cellulose. These carbohydrates are utilized in different ways, so any carb supplement you use needs to contain the right varieties for maximum effectiveness. Advanced Nutrients Bud Candy contains five high-grade sources of carbohydrates, each of which play a specific role in the crops you grow.

Bud Candy represents a highly efficient root-system delivery: This is preferable over foliar delivery for carbohydrate supplementation. What’s more, oxygen substantially increases the rate of carbohydrate absorption within healthy plant roots, which means Bud Candy is perfect for oxygen-rich grow environments, whether in soil or a hydroponic system.

Bud Candy represents decades of research, development and real-world testing: Like all Advanced Nutrients products, Bud Candy has been meticulously developed over decades of R & D, led by a team of 25+ Ph.D. botanists, organic chemists and microbiologists. Moreover, this formulation has been rigorously tested on the same type of high-value plants that you grow, resulting in the best carbohydrate profile possible.

The Basic Structure of Plants

Thu, 11 Apr 2019 11:31:43 GMT

Evolution and Reproduction

There is an enormous variety of flower types. But all flowers in essence contain the plants’ reproductive organs. The example above contains both male (stamen) and female structures (pistil), but these may also be separated into two flowers on the same plant or even on separate male and female plants.

Unlike animals, plants cannot run away from environmental stresses that may cause tissue damage. Nor are they able to escape from the numerous pests and diseases that can afflict them such as viruses, fungi and insects. But does this mean that plants are helpless? Of course not… after all, earth is known as the ‘green planet’ and many plant species are able to co-exist with their natural enemies and even in the most hostile places on earth.

Throughout evolution, plants have developed numerous traits to cope with these environmental stresses. They have done this in two main ways: by adapting the plant basic structure, and by producing chemical compounds - which are often species-specific.

In this article we try to describe some of the most commonly occurring forms of plant stress that you may or may not have already seen and the physiological disorders the plant may suffer from. And last but not least, we will look at some of the ‘tricks’ that plants have learned to cope with stress.

Now what is ‘environmental stress’ about? It usually includes all the non-living environmental factors that can
negatively affect the growth and productivity of plants. A lot of scientific research has been done on drought stress, the effects of flooding or submergence, salinity stress and extreme temperatures (both high and low). But for growers, well known issues such as high light intensity and deficiencies in inorganic nutrients (such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) are included. The main reason for this is the key role of this type of stress in reducing yields in agricultural or industrial crops worldwide.

The basics of plant structure

To understand the issues described further on in this article it is important to understand the basics of plant structure. Possibly the most remarkable difference between plants and animals is plants’ ability to use sunlight as a direct energy source to produce all the chemical compounds needed to grow, survive and reproduce. It is no wonder, then, that the
basic structure of plants has evolved to facilitate this energy factory.

Below the ground…

In general a typical plant has a section below the ground and a section above the ground. Under the soil we find the roots, of course. Their basic functions include anchoring the plant firmly in the soil and taking up water and nutrients. Water-soluble nutrients are transported to the rest of the plant above ground via the stem to any location where the nutrients are needed: the leaves, the shoot tips, or the flowers and fruits.

The process of taking up nutrients involves a number of steps. The first requirement is that the nutrients themselves can move through the soil or substrate in the rhizosphere so that they can find their way to the roots. Then the nutrients need to pass several ‘root barriers’ – namely the cell walls, and then the cell membranes. Once inside the plant, the nutrients need to be transported through the plant’s vascular tissue (called the xylem), followed by cell-to-cell transport.

The biggest barrier is usually the cell membrane, which is highly selective. The basic structure of a cell membrane is the phospholipid bilayer, which has very low permeability for most nutrients. Carbon dioxide, oxygen, water and some neutral molecules like urea are the only products that can pass easily through the lipid layer of the membrane by diffusion.

All other essential mineral nutrients are absorbed as ions (with the exception of boron). This means that all nutrients (except boron) need membrane transporters. These are transport proteins embedded in the cell membrane which control the intracellular environment (the spaces between the plant cells).

Above the ground…

The section of the plant above the ground includes the stems, leaves, reproductive organs (flowers, fruits) and shoot tips, which contains as yet undifferentiated plant cells waiting for specific specialization (later they will become a leaf or stem tissue). After the roots take up the water and nutrients, there are several pathways for nutrient transport within the plant. The most common route is by ‘long-distance transport’ via the xylem vessels to the leaves and flowers (or any other plant organs). Two driving forces play a key role in this long-distance transport: the water potential gradient and the root pressure. Root pressure occurs when osmosis drives water from the soil into the roots. This is effectively because plants accumulate the nutrients taken up in the xylem tissue.

As we will see later in this article, various types of environmental stress can seriously affect this neat transportation system. For most plants (except for parasitic plants, which do not use sunlight as an energy source) one of the most vital organs are the leaves with the chloroplasts that contain the cells that the plant needs to photosynthesise. This includes everything needed to convert solar energy into bond energy and fix this into sugars. The chloroplast contains an extensive system of internal membranes, which are called thylakoids. The actual chlorophyll is located within this membrane system.

Most chloroplasts can be found in the mesophyll tissue of the leaves. Chloroplasts are thin-walled, metabolically active cells that are not only vital for photosynthesis, but also for the storage of sugar. The leaf mesophyll tissue is surrounded by intercellular spaces, spaces that contain air and are in contact with the atmosphere. Plants can regulate air exchange using their stomata - specialist cells that can open and close, actively closing the leaf off from the atmosphere at times. Close contact with air is required because photosynthesis requires the uptake of carbon dioxide and the release of oxygen. A cross-section of a typical leaf shows the location of these cell types.

It is worth having a closer look at the stomata. These cells not only play a crucial role in photosynthesis, but they also allow the plant to increase or reduce the rate of evaporation. Stomata are specialist cells on the lower side of the leaf. They typically consist of two cells that can vary in water content.

These cells are called the guard cells. The amount of water in the cell determines whether the stoma is in the open or closed position. The guard cells of a closed stoma contain relatively little water and appear to be shrunken and shrivelled. The cell walls of each of the two guard cells make contact over the full length of the cells.

To open the stoma, the plant has to increase the water level in the guard cells. The driving force behind this flow of water is osmosis: the plant actively increases the potassium level in the guard cells. As a response to the increasing potassium content, water starts to flow into the cells, causing them to swell. The contact between the two guard cells is reduced so that only the cell wall at the top and bottom of the cells are touching, leaving a
space - the stomata is now open.

By precisely controlling the water content in the guard cells, a plant can determine whether most of the stomata should be closed (no contact between the internal plant parts and the external atmosphere) or open (maximum plant-air contact). As we will see, this process plays a crucial role in plant stress responses, particularly in relation to water and drought stress.

In order for a plant species to survive over generations, flowering is a crucial process for reproductive success. While photosynthesis provides energy for the plant throughout its whole life cycle, the transition from a vegetative to generative stage marks a dramatic change in the plant’s energy investment.

This transition is characterised by the induction and development of the meristem of the inflorescence, which produce flowers (or one flower, where only one is produced) (see figure 1). This change contains both endogenous and exogenous elements; for example, in order for the change to begin, the plant must have a certain number of leaves and have reached a certain total biomass. Certain environmental conditions may also be needed, such as a characteristic photoperiod. This is most often the transition to long or short days. Even an internal ‘genetic’ trigger or circadian clock in the plant may cause the plant to flower. Plant hormones play an important part in the process, with the gibberellins having a particularly important role.

Article shared from our partners at Canna UK

Grow Room Ventilation

Fri, 29 Mar 2019 17:26:20 GMT

The Importance of Fresh Air

The three main reasons for keeping your grow room ventilated are....

Reduction of heat
Humidity control
Fresh carbon dioxide for your plants

To clarify how various elements can influence these factors we will go through them first.

Grow Room Heat

Most of the heat in a grow room emanates from the lighting. This is common sense really, think of it how most of the heat on planet earth comes from our source of light, which is of course the sun!

The technology for lighting has advanced in the last few decades and LED lights can provide a lot more for less power but they do still generate heat to operate as well.

Whilst this heat may feel tolerable when you enter your growroom, plants are a lot more susceptible to it. Overheating can reduce the harvesting yield and increases the likelihood of plant disease.

During the artificial 'daytime' when the lights are on, the best temperature for your growroom is between 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit and during the night about 10-15 degrees cooler is great.

Grow Room Humidity

Humidity is a measure of the amount of moisture in the air at any given time.

To grow effectively plants do need a certain amount of humidity but too much will make the environment less ideal.

Humidity is naturally present in the air and additional humidity is also released by the plants as they breathe.

Because grow rooms are enclosed, and often cramped, excessive humidity can easily develop.

Good ventilation can easily address this and by removing the excess water from the air it will create a balance that your plants will love.

Carbon Dioxide

One of many beautiful things about plants is that they replenish the oxygen supply in the Earth's atmosphere. Animals breathe the oxygen from the air and convert this into carbon dioxide (CO2). Plants then breathe the carbon dioxide and convert this to oxygen.

Because a grow room is typically a closed environment this process is effectively one-way and the supply of CO2 can become alarmingly low.

Ventilating the room will replenish the CO2 which will help your plants continue to flourish.

If the ratio of CO2 is too low the growth and fruiting can be stunted and hindered so a fresh and steady supply is vital.

Benefits of Good Ventilation

From the above it can be seen that good and correct ventilation can prevent overheating, excess humidity and replenish the plants' equivalent of fresh air.

Another great result of this is that it makes the environment less attractive to pests and disease.

Insects and fungus will typically thrive in humid and damp conditions and can take longer to eliminate than they can to make home.

Another great thing about ventilation is the wind stress, which unlike most animals, plants actually enjoy! Rather than having still and stale air, ventilation will mimic the typically breezy conditions that they will experience in the outdoors. A continuous steady breeze will also grow strong and sturdy though a natural method of resilience.

A common and practical indoor setup is the grow tent

An oscillating fan in a grow tent creates good air circulation and a filter can be used at the tent's air outlet to eliminate any undesired odours. It is best that the fan is not pointed directly at your plants. So long as there is a decent circulation of air the plants will get a nice nudge and appreciate the temperature and supply of fresh air.

In terms of temperature, keep an eye on a thermometer in the grow room to make sure it is within their preferred range.

5 Environmental Benefits of Hydroponic Growing

Fri, 29 Mar 2019 16:10:47 GMT

The benefits against soil farming

There are many benefits of using hydroponic growing over the traditional soil method of growing. In this article, we’ll cover the environmental benefits of hydroponic farming.

But, before we begin talking about the benefits, let’s go over what hydroponics is first for those who may not know.

What Is Hydroponic Growing and Hydroponics?

Hydroponics is the process of growing plants without using soil.

In the traditional sense of growing plants, the soil is one major way that plants get the nutrients they need to grow, along with the sun & water.

With hydroponics, alternatives to those nutrients are directly fed to plants instead of being absorbed by the plants through soil. This way, the use of soil is able to be completely erased.

Hydroponic growing systems are usually closed systems, with plants being grown entirely in greenhouses.

The great thing about using hydroponics for cultivation of crops is that the system itself offers benefits and advantages to Mother Nature that simply do not exist when you are engaged in conventional farming.

Here are five environmental benefits of hydroponic growing.

5 Environmental Benefits of Hydroponics

1. Less Land Is Needed

One of the best things about hydroponics is that less land is needed to grow plants, compared to traditional farming methods .

For example, when you are planting rows upon rows of cabbage, lettuce or tomato plants in soil, you are consuming a lot of space.

Unfortunately, there is a limited amount of space and suitable farmland on Earth.

With traditional farming, you can be as compact as you’d like, but it remains a fact that every plant you put into the ground occupies a fixed space that doesn’t change throughout the maturation period of the plant.

This is different when you’re using hydroponics. Grow pots can be placed closer together, without causing any problems in the growth rate of plants. Nutrients in the growing solution are distributed differently in water compared to soil.

In fact, commercial hydroponics tend to consume only 1/5 of the land needed for the same amount of plants being cultivated on farmland .

If you’re wondering how hydroponics farmers save lots of land, one way is by structuring systems in such a way that some of the plants can be suspended in mid-air to save space.

A grower can also use multiple levels of frames with proper plumbing to create the same effect on their plants.

The bottom line?

With just a little land, you can accomplish a lot with hydroponics . With commercial hydroponic farming, there is less of a demand to clear the environment (like forests) for farmland.

2. Reduced Fossil Fuel Use with Flexible Growing Locations

This may not sound like an environmental benefit, but it is. Just imagine: how much fuel do we consume on a daily basis to ship food long distances to markets?

With hydroponics, commercial growers have the option of establishing their greenhouses in locations that are closer to their intended markets or distribution channels.

Essentially, this cuts down the need for expensive transportation. This improves the profit of the hydroponics grower and also cuts down the pollution associated with the transportation of goods.

And while this may not sound like a big deal, the combined effect of many hydroponics growers over time does create a difference.

Think of things in the long term. The flexibility of hydroponics helps the environment by reducing emissions and the overall carbon footprint associated with food production and market transport.

3. Less Water is Used

Obviously, water consumption is something that we all think about when we are cultivating crops.

Crops need to be constantly hydrated, and they will easily dry out if there isn’t sufficient watering. The problem with soil is that once the water is applied, it is absorbed by the soil and the excess sinks past the roots.

Therefore, we have to continually replenish the supply of water to keep plants hydrated and alive.

With hydroponics, there is a central nutrient reservoir or water bank, and the water in this water bank is either circulated or fed directly to the plants.

There is some loss to evaporation, which is normal, but much of the water is retained for days and weeks .

For the most part, hydroponics systems are maintained by adding nutrients to the water. There is no need to continuously pump new water into the system.

In fact, hydroponic growing uses only 10% of the water the would be needed to grow plants in traditional soil . Just imagine how much water could be saved over long periods of time!

4. Potentially Better for The Earth and Soil

Soil erosion is just one of the problems associated with conventional farming.

In some countries, old forests, which are part of the Earth’s “lungs”, are cut down and cleared to turn large areas into agricultural land.

The amount of farmable land available for commercial agriculture has been steadily shrinking since the Second World War.

Land has become so scarce that we are touching nature’s reserves of forests, just so we can continue growing food for the Earth’s ever increasing human population.

Obviously, you still need a little land when you engage in hydroponics.

But, unlike conventional farming, the amount of land needed for hydroponics is drastically reduced . So much more can be done with hydroponics in a small space, compared to traditional farming.

And, because it doesn’t require soil, hydroponic growing practices can be used in areas with harsh climate and little fertile soil , like in the desert.

Additionally, there are different kinds of hydroponics setups. You can combine aquaculture and hydroponics and come up with an aquaponics system that produces not just flowers, fruits, and vegetables, but also fish.

The amount of time needed to grow several batches of plants is the same time needed for fish to mature to plate-size.

Just imagine the possibilities of applying hydroponics to commercial-scale cultivation of fruits, vegetables and other crops.

5. Reduced Use of Pesticides and Herbicides

In conventional farming, two kinds of sprays are applied: herbicides and pesticides.

Herbicides are sprayed to kill off unwanted plants (these are generally called weeds), while pesticides are applied to control pest insects.

The spraying of pesticides and herbicides do great damage to the environment:

Pesticides can be swept away by rain, contaminating nearby ecosystems . And, pesticides not only poison the target insect, but can potentially poison other animals as well.

However, with hydroponics, there is no weed growth because it takes time for plants to grow into hydroponic grow medium. Hydroponic grow medium does not function exactly like soil. There is no need to use herbicides.

There also isn’t much need for pesticide use. Why?

For the most part, crops will be protected by closed greenhouses . These greenhouses can be fortified to resist insect pest attacks .

Less use of herbicides and pesticides is good for the environment as this will mean drastically reduced runoff, which affects both soil and bodies of water.

One of the looming problems that have affected us all is pesticide runoff. Pesticide molecules have been found in the meat of fish and other animals , which means the runoff from agricultural lands have become so widespread that it has invaded animals and territories that it shouldn’t be present in.

Article provided courtesy of Get Green Now

Centipedes

Tue, 12 Mar 2019 14:13:22 GMT

Subtle and Silent Damage

Centipedes use tunnels and cavities in the soil to live in and although they can't produce their own tunnels they often find existing ones to live in.

To identify a centipede the adult ones have 12 pairs of legs and are about 1cm or 10mm long.

Their typical foodstuff ranges from soil and manure to yeast and dead plant substance.

Although this sounds fairly harmless, in order to reproduce they must eat living and fresh plant material.

Potential Damage

Centipedes prefer to munch the roots of young plants at reproduction time and for this reason the damage is not always immediately obvious.

However, what this leads on to is damage to the roots which in time reduces the growth and overall yield from the plants.

Once the roots have experienced this trauma they become a welcome home for fungi and bacteria to cause further problems.

Preventing Damage

If you are using potting compost then place it in a container of water.

If any centipedes are present they will quite simply just rise to the surface of the water from where they can be removed and eliminated.

Steaming the soil will prevent them from spreading any further and the most effective method is steaming the soil from its base as this prevents them from going any deeper within

Nitrogen Deficiency

Tue, 12 Mar 2019 11:25:07 GMT

Loss of Chlorophyll and Yellow Leaves

Nitrogen is an essential element that plants require to produce chlorophyll. This is absolutely necessary for the plant to photosynthesise. Nitrogen is also part of what constructs the amino acids which are the proteins from which the plants are formed.

If your plant is lacking in nitrogen from its nutrients there are a few potential symptoms although these are similar to what soil disease or stagnant water can cause.

The symptoms to look out for are...

Older leaves becoming yellow/green from the inside out
Yellowing spreading towards the leaf base and veins as it progresses
Leaves begin to fall off
Purple stems

The reason the leaves begin to turn yellow is that without sufficient nitrogen the plant cannot produce enough chlorophyll.

Chlorophyll is what gives the leaves their green colour and is absolutely crucial and essential for the plant to absorb sufficient light. Through the process of photosynthesis this light is converted into glucose which is what provides the energy.

So if the leaves begin to turn yellow then the plant will begin to lack energy.

The causes

Not enough nitrogen in the substrate or soil
Too much zinc, manganese or potassium in the substrate or soil
Too much chloride in the soil
Too high a pH level
Not enough nitrogen in the feed (as it is easily washed away with water)

Prevention

Good nutrients to help prevent a nitrogen deficiency include Alga Grow and Terra Grow from Plagron

Other important areas of importance are a suitable temperature, acidity, moisture levels and light intensity.

Plants will not usually suffer from this rapidly.

Cure

Fertilise with a product that has a high content of nitrogen such as Terra Grow which is an NPK fertisliser that contains a total of 2.6% nitrogen.

Mites (tetranychidae)

Thu, 07 Mar 2019 12:59:57 GMT

How to prevent or cure them

A description of mites

There are lots of different types of mite and they all have eight legs that point either to the front or the back. They are typically brown, red or yellow/green and have bodies that are pear shaped.

Being very difficult to see with the naked eye, tetranychidae mites are often first spotted by the damage they cause to the plants. Being less than half a millimeter in length a magnifying glass is needed to inspect them.

They prefer an environment that is relatively warm and dry and are more likely to feed from plants that have lacked a good supply of moisture.

What damage is caused?

If silvery white spots appear on the leaves then it is a strong possibility that these mites are the culprits. They tend to hide underneath the leaves that are suffering the damage and these leaves can initially be spotted by the tiny white flecks that are left.

As things progress a white web will begin to cover the edges of the leaves. Both the adult mites and the larvae will feed on the underside of the leaves and as well as the web there will also be yellow spots on the leaves.

The leaf will eventually die and ultimately this will cause the death of the entire plant.

With a large infestation of mites the plant can become totally covered in the white webs.

Preventing this damage

This is a really simple one - just keep a clove of garlic nearby! The plant will absorb some of the scent and because the mites do not appreciate it this will keep them away.

Keeping a high level of humidity will also help to eradicate them as they do not appreciate high levels of moisture.

Magnesium Deficiency

Tue, 05 Mar 2019 16:40:54 GMT

Cloudy Yellow or Rusty Spots

Plants require magnesium because it is one of the building blocks of chlorophyll. Chlorophyll is what gives the green colour in the leaves and helps a plant to photosynthesise by absorbing the sunlight.

When a plant does not have a sufficient supply of magnesium from its nutrients the oldest leaves begin to exhibit the deficiency. Small spots appear that are either a cloudy yellow or emulate the colour of rust. The leaves gradually become more yellow and begin to curl up. This typically occurs on the older leaves to begin with and then gradually spreads to the younger sections of the plant.

How to spot a deficiency of magnesium

Yellow spots on the older leaves
Curling of the leaf tips
Chlorosis between the veins
Reduced production
Purple stems

Potential causes

Soil that has a low pH
An excessively cold or wet environment for the roots
A poor and undeveloped system of roots
An excessively high EC value in the rooting substrate
Too much potassium, calcium and ammonia (nitrogen) because this can react and form new magnesium compounds that the plant can't feed from

Prevention

Magne-Cal+ from Plant Magic is a good nutrient that contains magnesium oxide (MgO), calcium oxide (CaO) and iron (Fe).
Keep the pH level between 6.0 and 7.0
Keep the temperature of the growing medium and nutrient solution between 21 and 23 degrees celcius

This will ensure that sufficient magnesium is available and the plant will be able to efficiently absorb it.

Cure

Flushing the system with clean water then replenishing the feed is a good idea.

Feed with Magne-Cal+ or a similar, good quality magnesium nutrient.

1ml of Magne-Cal is added to 1 litre of water and this will replenish the supply to the plant.

Preventing Slugs

Thu, 28 Feb 2019 13:46:35 GMT

How to deal with them effectively

If you see holes appearing in you plant's leaves then there is a good chance that some slugs need eliminating. They also leave trails similar to those from snails and are actually more destructive.

A biography of slugs

Ok, well not quite a biography, but a brief mention... although slugs are not the fastest of creatures in terms of movement they can cause a substantial amount of damage in a short time. They love to eat holes in as many leaves as possible which can of course finish your plants off.

Recognising the damage

As written in the introduction, the most obvious sign is that holes are randomly appearing in your leaves. This is what the slugs feed on. There will also be lines on slime, similar to those you would see from snails.

Preventing the damage

Tidy your garden to reduce any potential hiding places for them to shelter in
Regularly work the area to spot and eliminate them on sight
Work the soil to remove any eggs
Surround the area with copper tape (this will give them an electric shock)
Soak garlic in water for a day and spray your plants with a mild solution

Iron Deficiency

Tue, 26 Feb 2019 15:49:44 GMT

How to spot if this is the case

If your grow system is short of iron then problems will first appear at the top of the plant. The younger leaves will appear yellow and bleached with the veins remaining their usual green colour. If this becomes severe then the leaves can die off.

What do plants need Iron for?

Iron assists the plant in producing chlorophyll.

Chlorophyll is an essential substance when plants photosynthesise and use sunlight when producing their own sugar energy.

Iron also helps the plant to produce protein and is known as a coenzyme.

How to Spot an Iron Deficiency

Fading will begin to appear in the younger leaves
This can lead to the larger leaves turning yellow
In this case the overall growth of the plant will also slow down
If this continues then the leaves will begin to die off

What Causes an Iron Deficiency

There are several possibilities:

A high pH level in the substrate or soil
Too much manganese in the feed
Too much zinc in the feed
Too little iron in the feed
Stagnated oxygen supply due to overly wet soil
Diseases affecting the nutrient uptake from the roots
A similar effect from a temperature that is too low

Preventing an Iron Deficiency

Keep a consistent check on the pH levels of the soil or substrate
Ensure that the calcium levels are not high
Keep the soil moist but adequately drained
Closely follow the feed level instructions of all nutrients
This should ensure that sufficient iron is available for your plants

Thrips

Fri, 22 Feb 2019 16:58:30 GMT

How to prevent or eliminate them

Identification

Thrips are small insects that can range in size from around 0.5 to 14mm in length, which is about 0.02 to 0.55 inches. Ranging from grey to brown in colour they are typically about 1mm in length and are therefore not automatically obvious to the naked eye.

In terms of reproduction, eggs are laid into the plant tissue. The females have to create a gap in the plant tissue to lay the egg and the larvae start to consume the plant immediately after hatching.

How to recognise them

Because they are typically about 1mm in length, if you are unfortunate enough to have them it will possibly be your plants that exhibit the telltale signs.

If silvery damage appears then it is quite possibly due to these slender winged insects. Thrips are creatures that suck the juice out of plant leaves. It is done by scraping across the leaves which causes spots and their excrement also causes dark spots to appear. The damage becomes more apparent as the leaves become deformed or growth is not as expected.

In such a case check the plant with a magnifying glass to investigate for any thrips.

Prevent further damage

A predator known as Orius can be added to the growth system to eliminated thrips. An adult orius will devour thrips at any stage of their development whilst the younger nymphs tend to go for the larvae. Orius is a great predator and will also get stuck into moth eggs and whitefly.

A popular method of eliminating them is by using a Fortefog Smoke Generator which can also eradicate many other flying or crawling insects.

Another excellent product of assistance is Guard 'n' Aid for Thrip which is an insecticide specially developed for use against Thrips at larval, adult and egg stages.

Guard 'n' Aid for Thrip is suitable for outdoor and protected growing on both edible and non-edible crops.

Potassium Deficiency

Thu, 21 Feb 2019 16:45:04 GMT

How to spot if this is the case

Potassium is one of several chemical elements that plants require if they are to flourish. If there is a shortage then leaves can yellow from the edges and eventually die away. The older leaves will experience this first and brown spots can appear that look burned. The reason the older leaves suffer first is that the younger leave will find their supply from the older leaves.

An immediately obvious way to spot the deficiency is from pale fruits and smaller flowers.

Recognising a Deficiency

Pale fruits
Limp stems
Smaller flower tops
Reduced yield
Less water absorption

Causes of Deficiency

Too much sodium in the rooting area
Too much calcium or magnesium in the soil or feed
Too little potassium in the soil or feed

Prevention of Deficiency

Use a nutrient that is rich in potassium. Bat Guano is a nutrient that provides an enhanced level both of potassium and phosphorous and leads to great flowering. Keep the pH between 6.0 and 7.0 to ensure the best absorption.

Curing the Symptoms

Green Sensation from Plagron is a liquid fertiliser that provides extra potassium at the flowering stage and as a result there are heavier fruits that are harder and more compact.

What Potassium Provides

By strengthening the cell wall of the plant the resistance of the plant is enhanced. It also helps to regulate when the stomata open and close which means a more orderly exchange of CO2, oxygen and water vapour. Good stomata function is necessary for efficient photosynthesis, cooling and nutrient transport within the plant. As with anything, good nutrient and energy consumption leads to a stronger and healthier product

Find the Nutrient Balance

Tue, 19 Feb 2019 14:31:55 GMT

Geting the correct chemical levels from your nutrients

Introduction

Any plant growth system needs a good balance of nutrients for a strong foundation and a prosperous growth. It is essential to know from the outset what is required and what can go wrong if the ratios are not ideal. Two things to bear in mind are the composition of each nutrient solution that is used and the EC (strength) that is needed at each stage of the plants' progress.

Composition of the Nutrient Solution

Nutrient solutions that are readily mixed are available although these are often more suitable for growth systems that are rooted (excuse the pun!) in soil or a potting mix that is already fertilised. Because of the growing medium the associated nutrients do not necessarily have the complete range of chemicals that are required. When growing with a hydroponic system is is wiser to choose a plant food that is complete.

The complete chemical elements that a plant requires are listed here:

Boron (B)
Calcium (Ca)
Chlorine (Cl)
Copper (Cu)
Iron (Fe)
Phosphorus (P)
Potassium (K)
Magnesium (Mg)
Manganese (Mn)
Molybdate (Mo)
Nitrogen (N)
Sulphur (S)
Zinc (Zn)

Different brands will contain different levels and ratios of these and maybe a few extras such as nickel or silica and can be beneficial to certain crops.

Nutrient Problems

Some of the reasons for deficiencies are listed below....

A low nutrient strength that can cause an overall deficiency for your plants
An imbalanced mix meaning that your plants are lacking in one or more chemicals
Forgetting to add one of the nutrients when creating the mix. Rare, but possible!
Environmental conditions that result in an unexpected uptake of certain nutrients that was not expected

Deficiency Indicators

If your plants are lacking in a certain chemical element then there will be tell-tale signs. Some appear quite similar whereas others have quite distinctive indicators. To an extent they do vary depending on the species of plants but for guidance here is a brief description of each....

Nitrogen: Short plants with leaves that are a pale green/yellow colour. This is particularly obvious on the older leaves. The stems can have a hint of purple to them.

Phosphorus: Stunted plants that are a darker green than usual. Again, this happens on the older leaves and the plant takes longer to mature. An environment that is too cold can cause this, even if the nutrient solution contains the correct amount of phosphorous.

Potassium: Aged leaves become yellowed with scattered dark (brown or black) spots. If there is way too little potassium then all foliage will curl and become too yellow.

Sulphur: On the new growth the leaves will become yellowed. Thankfully this deficiency is not as common as others.

Magnesium: Older leaves can have yellowed areas between the veins. However the veins remain green.

Calcium: The younger leaves are affected first. They are small with spotted dead areas. The development of buds is as affected and the root tips can die back.

Iron: Similar to the magnesium deficiency there can be yellowing between the veins and the veins remain green. The difference here is that a lack of iron will cause thus to happen on the new leaves as opposed to the older ones/

Chlorine: The leaves will wilt, begin to yellow and eventually become bronze in colour. The plant roots become stunted.

Manganese: Yellowing on the leaves which leads to areas that are dry and brown. The leaves can begin to fall.

Boron: A reduction in the plant size with swollen root tips and brittle leaves.

Zinc: Short plants with distorted leaf edges and potential yellowing between the veins.

Copper: Dark green and twisted leaves with brown spots.

Molybdenum: Damage to the leaf edges which appears as if they have been scorched. Yellowing between the veins can also occur on the older leaves.

Solution Strength and Measurement

The strength of the nutrient solution has a big effect on the plant growth even when the chemical balance is spot on and measuring the strength is fairly straightforward. The traditional unit of measurement is ppm (parts per million) although the modern method is a more accurate unit which is EC (electrical conductivity).

It is the EC that the root system will respond to and there are different types of EC meters available which can also be known as CF meters. Given the area of testing it is important that the meter is water-resistant and the Essentials EC or the Truncheon are perfect in this respect.

It is important to grow at the correct EC for your crop and also for your system in general. The desired EC varies between different plants and if it is too high they will endure a symptom known as 'water stress'. This is where the plants start to lose water and begin to wilt. If the EC is only a tiny bit higher than it should be the plants will have darker leaves than usual. On the flip-side, if the EC is too low then too much water will be taken in which results in a floppy and lighter green appearance.

If the plant contains edible fruits then another obvious flaw will be a bland flavour, lack of firmness and a lighter shade of colour.

The main things to focus on for a successful nutrient intake from your plants is the ratio that is required, a correct concentration measurement and frequent checks of the EC. Keep doing these checks on a regular basis and help to eliminate problems before they occur.

Jungle Strategies - Ferocious

Fri, 15 Feb 2019 13:12:11 GMT

Our most popular product!

What is the science behind Ferocious?

The proprietary formulation of Ferocious from Jungle Control contains a rare natural substance with a molecular structure similar to water.

Jungle Control have partnered with cutting-edge chemists who have been able to create an environment to extract this substance in greater volume than ever before.

Ferocious delivers additional hydrogen and oxygen complexes to various plants through its root system. The formulation is composed of stable, concentrated complexes of hydronium (H3O) and OHs.

During ATP hydrolysis, the first step in the plant’s energy creating process, the mitochondria in the plant’s cells donate one proton from a water molecule (H2O) to another water molecule, creating hydronium (H3O) and OH.

Those molecules then become fuel for another reaction in the ATP process and create energy for the plant.

The scientists at Jungle Control believe that Ferocious delivers more hydronium and OHs, which create more energy for the plant to create bigger, stronger plants, that produce more flower.

Check out the product here

The LuMMi Black Kit

Fri, 08 Feb 2019 00:00:00 GMT

How to set this up for the best results

This light kit from LUMii is nice and easy to set up.

Lift the hanging brackets with a pair of pliers or a screwdriver
Straighten the reflector to good uniform shape. This is straightforward to do by hand
Remove the cellophane from the underside of the reflector
Give the unit a nice little wipe over just to remove any dust
Hang the reflector in your tent by looping the rope-ratchets over the top pole and connect them to the reflector
Feed the cable through one of the air socks so that it can be plugged in
Insert the lamp with a cloth to avoid any grease on the bulb
Set the ballast power to correspond with the power of the bulb, connect the leads and plug it in

Switch it on and job done!

Watch the video from Hydrogarden for a full demonstration and check out a 600W kit here

Atami Bloombastic

Tue, 05 Feb 2019 00:00:00 GMT

The Bling Bling for your Plants!

Important Bloombastic Notes!

Atami Bloombastic is the 'Bling Bling' for plants that transforms beginners into professionals and professionals into champions. By adding more weight, increasing essential oils and enhancing the flowers it creates explosive fruits and flowers.

During the bloom stage add Bloombastic every time you renew the reservoir. Flush before beginning to use Bloombastic in the 4th to 6th weeks.

Bloombastic is compatible with any base nutrient. For best results we recommend Atami / B’cuzz nutrients.

Bloombastic can be used in combination with a carbohydrate product as long as the product’s PK is low.

Using another high P-K product in combination with Bloombastic will result in overdose plants.

Bloombastic can be used on all substrates: Soil, Soilless mixes, Coco or Rockwool

Bloombastic can be used in combination with all irrigation systems: NFT, Ebb and Flow, Drippers, Bubblers, Aeroponics*

How to use!

Bloombastic is a BOOSTER, ACCELERATOR, TOP HARDENER, QUALITY IMPROVER and ESSENTIAL OILS INCREASING product. Bloombastic is an ORGANIC BASED PRODUCT containing sea kelp and clay minerals.

Start using Bloombastic (MIX APPROXIMATE 2 ML PER GALLON) when the buds first appear.

This will occur during the LAST 4 TO 6 WEEKS of the BLOOMING AND RIPENING stages of plant growth.

You typically will see RESULTS within the FIRST 2 – 4 DAYS.

As you increase Bloombastics dosage up to a maximum of 4 ML PER GALLON IN THE LAST WEEKS OF BLOOMING, you will see an even more DRAMATIC EFFECT from the PK boost and when the METABOLIC ENHANCERS kick in.

Check out the demonstration below and check out the product here

Much of the information above is from Atami UK

Growth Technology

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 31 Jan 2019 11:13:17 GMT

The advantages of growing this way

This slideshow contains comprehensive details of the products from Growth Technology that we supply.

These products are great for propagation and plant growth.

Examples are Clonex , which contains a blend of amino acids and other nutrients to enhance the generation of healthy roots.

Root Riot , which helps to provide a good air to water ratio.

Alpha Coco, which is a complete nutrient for all types of coco mixes.

Ionic, which are twin pack nutrients contained within one bottle and can build bigger and better flowers.

Green Haze, which can drive plants to their full potential

And many more!

Easily work with a Grow Tent

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 22 Jan 2019 15:30:32 GMT

The straightforward and secure way of cultivation

Grow tents are a great way of cultivating your crops indoors. They are easy to set up, relatively simple to manage and can efficiently packed away and moved to a different location if required.

Here are some of the advantages of using a grow tent...

Pros of using a Grow Tent

Relatively Cheap – Tents can be bought from as low as £100. Setting up a grow space to have all the same characteristics (reflective walls, air-tight vents, light proof, a waterproof tray at the bottom to catch spilled water, etc.) can easily cost the same amount or more. Plus it’s difficult to DIY a space so that it works as well as a grow tent (which has been designed for this purpose) and it will often take more time, planning and effort than simply buying a pre-made tent.

Easy & Quick to Set Up – Assembling your grow tent and getting completely set up to start growing will take about an afternoon and can be done by just about anyone (full instructions below). Overall, the work of setting up a grow tent reminds me of putting together an old-fashioned camping tent but fruit and veg comes out of it a few months later!

Stealth – A grow tent prevents smells and light from escaping the tent when set up properly, and can be tucked away in a big closet or the corner of a room without necessarily drawing a whole lot of attention.

Perpetual Harvest – Grow tents work very well if you want to keep two separate grow spaces, for example if you wanted a separate vegetative and flowering chamber for a perpetual harvest. Grow tents create a completely self-enclosed environment that can be managed separately.

Helps Prevent Bugs – The intake holes of most grow tents are covered with mesh, which allow air to pass but stops many insects. This helps prevent incidental bugs like spiders or carpenter beetles from getting to your plants. A grow tent with strong grow lights is also a pretty hot and inhospitable environment for many pests!

Temperature - No more worrying about keeping a greenhouse warm throughout the winter months!

Green Qube

British Engineered Grow Tent

Green-Qube grow rooms are British designed & engineered, harnessing pioneering quality, class-leading components and technology-led features.

Strength

With a hanging weight of over 100kg + 25mm x 1mm poles & corners, Green-Qube grow tents are superiorly strong and durable at affordable prices.

2.2m High As Standard

Our larger Green-Qube tents are now 2.2m high at no extra cost! Or if you want to go old-skool go for the 2m high option. The choice is YOURS!

Why makes a Quick-Qube Last So Long?

Grow tent will hang 150kg
Anti-corrosive
Never lose poles or corners
Aluminium frame for immense longevity
1 year frame guarantee
Never lose poles or corners again
Outershells sold separately for repeat frame use

View more of them here

Tent Kits

These range from £149.99 right up to £475 and include all of the required accessories including:

1 x Tent
2 x 600w Metal Kit Dual Spectrum
1 x 6” Fanflow Fan
1 x Carbon Garden 6" Short Filter
1 x 6" Aluminium Ducting 5mtr
2 x 6” Jubilee Clamps
2 x Heavy Duty Timer
8 x Root Nurse 12L Fabric Pots

And a free Dry Bag!

View more of them here

Budget Kits

LightHouse® LITE is the budget tent, for the grower who wants good results with no frills. It offers a simple, lightweight frame that incorporates nylon corners, but still has multiple choices of ducting and cable glands all with double seals.

View more of them here

Climate Control

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 11 Jan 2019 15:09:13 GMT

How to monitor the key elements

Climate control is a subject that hit the news in a big way back in the 1980's and we have heard so much on the subject it can easily be disregarded. Then when it comes to the subject of controlling the indoor climate for for plants it can be easy to assume that we have it all taken care of. There are some important elements to consider though.

Firstly, let's consider the key elements of a plant. A dry plant typically consists of 45% oxygen, 45% carbon and 6% hydrogen. This is effectively the water and carbon dioxide within the plant which is what the plant takes in as it breathes and transpires the water. So given the volume of these substances it is important to make the plant sweat in a healthy fashion without burning it out.

In terms of environmental conditions, the most obvious ones are perhaps the humidity and temperature of the growroom. Other aspects to definitely take into account are the...

Water temperature
Concentration of nutrients in the water
Frequency of watering
Wind (in terms of fan ventilation)
Light intensity, quality and duration

Some of these, and more, are discussed below.

Light Intensity

Light intensity is a massive factor for your growth and the light source has a big influence because it is your plant's energy source during photosynthesis. There are many different styles of lighting that are available and we recommend HPS bulbs. The benefit of these over LED lighting is that the reflector shades can be adjusted or altered such that the spread area of the light is exactly as desired.

Other lighting that is sometimes considered by growers is HID (high intensity discharge) and whilst good in some respects we do not recommend these due to the radiant heat that emanates from them. It is difficult to assess and predict, and tricky to eliminate with the air movement from a fan. What then occurs is that certain parts of the canopy are above their ideal temperature. What a plant then does to alleviate this is to close some of its stomata to preserve water. As a result these areas will not photosynthesise and will leave you plant short of energy. Droopy leaves is a telltale sign of this and in any case with any lighting simply moving the lighting up by a few inches can help them return back to life.

Root Temperature

Keeping the root temperature at a level close to the ambient air conditions will encourage more nutrient delivering sap to progress from the roots to the plant and as well as feeding this will also further help to balance the temperature within it.

This is worth remembering because the dynamics of air means its temperature changes far swifter than that of the soil yet it is easy to assume that all parts of the growroom environment are at a similar level.

Air Temperature

Whilst the cooling of the growroom is commonplace whilst the lighting is on it is important to also consider the heating during the dormant periods. Rooms naturally cool down during the night time and heating them up creates a risk of cooking the plants.

However, ambient warmth is important to ensure the sap transfers the nutrients from the roots to the upper plant.

A good method to achieve this is to power your fan and lights through a multi-timer such as this one from Widow. This means that when the lighting is off, the fans are also off.

For the heating, there is a wireless thermostat from Lighthouse that will help to ensure the ambient temperature is at its ideal level. Some of the great heaters we supply can be seen here.

In terms of air temperature and movement, a filter is always a great idea as it can eliminate the scent from plants at their flowering or vegetating stage. Plants such as sage and onion are a good example as they can give it a right stuffing!

Having a Holiday?

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 18 Dec 2018 17:32:59 GMT

Easy to Go and Easy to Grow!

Planting a holiday over the festive period? Sorry, we meant are you planning a holiday over the festive period (excuse the typo with the planting!)

Your plants need taking care of and ideally if there is somebody who can do a big seasonal favour and keep an eye on them then that is fantastic.

However, at times where many people are enjoying some well deserved family time and perhaps a bit of partying it is definitely a decent idea to have an alternative method.

That is where the Easy2Go kit comes in handy.

Connect an Easy2Go kit to your reservoir and this will allow water to flow into a tray up to the depth of 20mm. Your plant pots nestle snugly in the tray and it is only when the plants have consumed all of the water that the kit's Aquavalve will allow a fresh supply to refill the tray.

If you are looking for a reservoir we have a good supply of them and recommend one with a volume of at least 100 litres such as the AutoPot FlexiTank

We also provide plenty of trays such as these trays from PLANT!T

Assembly of the kit is fairly straightforward and then it should be connected to the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with water and the required proportion of nutrients as per the manufacturer's guidelines.

Place the Easy2Go kit in the plant tray and away you grow!

Full instructions with images are below...

There are different layouts that you can utilise and here is one that we suggest...

Feeling the Cold? Or Hot and Bothered?

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 07 Dec 2018 17:40:26 GMT

Keeping the Best Temperature for Your Growroom

It often seems like common sense to keep your growroom at the ideal temperature for your crop but the importance this can easily be forgotten. In the recent summer we had the biggest heatwave for decades and now in December the cold climates are beginning to kick in.

Air temperature has a massive impact and below are some of the consequences of getting this wrong.

Reduced Plant Size

Plants in the outdoor world are naturally adapted to altering temperatures from daytime to night time and is is believed that this actually helps their growth. To simulate this it is worth reducing the temperature by about 10 degrees when the lights are resting.

Pests

A warm plant environment definitely helps pests to flourish. Indeed, this may well have been a problem in the summer when plenty of cooling and ventilation is required. Do remember that when the cold weather kicks in it can be easy to over-compensate and once again encourage an infestation.

Productivity

Cold weather will slow the plants' growth. Excessively warm temperatures can prevent fruits from setting.

Finding the Ideal Temperature for Your Plants

This depends to a massive extent upon what plants they are! Generally there are two categories, hot weather or cool weather. Consider the native origin of the plant, what its typical environment is and in what season it will grow.

There are of course too many plants for us to give a specific temperature for each but cool weather plants do well at around 60 degrees and warm weather at about 80 degrees.

Heating

The heaters that we recommend are these warm beauties...

LightHouse ECOHEAT 45w Greenhouse Heater
LightHouse ECOHEAT 80w Greenhouse Heater
LightHouse ECOHEAT 135w Greenhouse Heater
2kW Greenhouse Heater

Cooling

We have plenty of cooling fans and systems and whatever the temperature a steady flow of air is always important.

Some of our best fans are here

Maintenance

This is the essential part! Once you have the heating/cooling systems in place and know your plants' ideal temperature get a good device to keep a steady eye on it with.

An everyday Digital Series thermometer provides reliable readings so that you can make the necessary adjustments to the climate.

For the connoisseur, the RAM Air-Pro II can automatically control two inline/exhaust fans with a thermostat. Take a look at the RAM Air-Pro II as we reckon this subject is well worthy of another blog article!

Online Feed Chart Scheduler

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 04 Dec 2018 11:25:25 GMT

Create your own feedchart the straightfoward way...

Do you like feed charts for your nutrients? There are plenty to download from the internet but our partners at General Hydroponics have created a great online tool to create your own!

If you are already enjoying the quality products from General Hydroponics or wish to give them a try this tool will produce a chart with the exact quantities of nutrients to add at each stage. The chart can then be printed off or downloaded.

It is pretty straightforward. The one piece of information you may need to find is the water hardness for your area. This is the quantity of minerals in your water and plants react differently in hard or soft water areas. Wikipedia have a good link for this here or you can do a quick Google search for your part of the country.

Some of the information required is as follows:

System Type (Recirculating or Drain to Waste)
Nutrient Series (check them out here )
Reservoir Volume Size
Frequency of Reservoir Changes

We gave it a quick try and got a nice & easy chart like this!

Give it a try yourself right here

LED Lighting - The Pros and Cons

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 30 Nov 2018 14:43:29 GMT

The Pros and Cons of LEDs in a Hydroponic System

A LED, or a light emitting diode, is a semiconductor that produces light when a voltage is applied. Electricity can only be applied in one direction and the result is positive and negative energy colliding at a junction which produces the light.

They were discovered in the 1960s and are now commonplace in everything from remote controls to TV's to those toys from back in the days! Many streetlights also use LEDs.

In the late 1980's, NASA began to experiment with them to grow fresh food in the International Space Station and in more recent years they have become more readily available for indoor growrooms at home.

There are advantages and disadvantages of these systems which we will mention below.

Advantages

Energy: LEDs do not need to burn anything so they produce a lot less heat than traditional lighting. To give the same level of light they use 60% less energy

Lifespan: Because of the low operating temperature the lifespan of a LED lighting system is around 50,000 hours. This is nearly 6 years of continuous use and is a lot longer than with typical lighting!

Harvest: Because LEDs can be used constantly for 24 hours a day without affecting the growroom temperature the plant growth rate can be maximised. This means that several yields can be produced in one typical growing season.

Health: Traditional lighting emits more infra red (IR) and ultra violet (UV) light than LEDs do. This can cause plants to burn and dry out, meaning that much of their water is needed just to merely survive. With LED's the water, energy and nutrients will be used for them to flourish.

Wavelength: Traditional systems give out green and yellow light which the plants only use a tiny amount of. The wavelength from LED lighting can be adjusted to enhance photosynthesis. This gives another saving of energy.

Spectrum: Many LED systems allow you to disable certain wavelengths and only emit the light required for the stage of the growth. This once again means less wasted energy and avoids the need to stock up on different lights for different growth stages.

Temperature: Because LED lights give off relatively little heat there is far less requirement for cooling fans to maintain a steady temperature.

Environment: LED lights do not contain toxic substances and are 100% recyclable.

Disadvantages

Directional Light: The light that is emitted is similar to that of a torch, in the sense that it covers at smaller area

Bright Light: The brightness of LED lights from a blue light can be dangerous to our eyes so care must be taken when working with this lighting.

Ageing: Despite the lifespan, the colour of the can change with age. This is more commonplace with cheaper LED chips.

Heat: LED grow lights can begin to malfunction with excessive heat and it is essential for a decent heat sink and fan to be present in the lighting system

Cost: LED lights are certainly more expensive than traditional lights but they are a good investment.

Overview

Although their are a few slight disadvantages with LED lighting that is often the case with anything we choose to use and they can easily be overcome. Care must be taken by wearing appropriate eye protection and although cost can be an issue it will eliminate potential issues such as overheating or an early demise in quality.

In terms of cost, the durability, energy efficiency and high yield potential will certainly outweigh this in the long run so overall LED lighting is definitely a wise and sensible investment.

View our range of LED lighting systems here

Hydroponic Systems and Styles

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 27 Nov 2018 15:33:36 GMT

From Nutrient Film Technique to the Brummie Bubbler

The most traditional method of growing plants is with soil and this can become reasonably straightforward with the right amount of practice.

However, hydroponic growth is not as complicated as some of us might think. There are dozens of different methods that free us up to plant practically any plant at any time of year.

A few of the most common methods are mentioned below.

NFT - Nutrient Film Technique

NFT is probably the most commonly know hydroponics system. There is a reservoir that contains the nutrient solution which is pumped into the growing tray. The growing tray, often known as a gully, is suspended at a slight angle so that the liquid gently flows through it for the plants to absorb the required amount.

The roots dangle into the tray and an electric pump ensures that there is a continuous flow. An essential part of maintenance is to ensure that the pump and electrics are in good working order and because the flow is ongoing there is no need for a timer.

We installed and currently help to maintain a NFT system of this type at the University Academy of Engineering in London.

Ebb and Flow (Flood and Drain)

The definition of Ebb and Flow is a recurring pattern of coming and going and this system gets such a name as the roots are temporarily flooded. A water pump will cause the nutrient solution to surround the roots for a period of time before draining back to the nutrient tank.

A beautiful aspect of this method is that fresh air is drawn back to the roots each time the solution is drained. A timer will control the flood and drain schedule and various different types of growing media can be used. Free-draining media such as the clay pebbles from Canna can be flooded quite frequently as it will not accumulate and maintain the liquid.

Popular Flood & Drain kits are the ones that we stock from Titan and timers for the pumps are required to ensure control over the system

Wick System

This is often perceived to be the most straightforward hydroponic system as it has no moving parts such as pumps or timers.

The plants can rest in many different growing mediums such as soil, coco or perlite from which wicks dangle into the nutrient solution. The nutrients are drawn up into the growing medium, pretty much on a supply upon demand basis.

Bubblers

Plants are held in net pots that contain growing media such as clay pebbles. The nutrient solution is highly oxygenated within which the roots are submerged. A pump ensures that each plant is receiving the same amount of nutrient and

Bubbler systems require very little growing media but they do need a lot of nutrient solution. There is also a pump that provides plenty of oxygen to the roots and this really helps the plant to grow rapidly.

The system pictured above is the Aeros IV Master from PLANT!T and the video below gives a great demonstration.

The above methods are just four of the dozens that are available and as always, we have plenty to choose from!

Transplanting Cuttings

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 06 Nov 2018 17:30:19 GMT

Taking your plants to the next medium

In recent articles we talked about how to progagate plants from cuttings and from seeds and when they would be ready to take to the next stage of growth.

The time to do this is when the roots can be seen to be growing outside of the root cube within the propagator it is time to make the move.

Leaving it too long will mean the roots become what is known as 'pot-tight' because they have been restricted and as a result will struggle to grow on as effectively.

Pick the Pots and Soil

The plant is still at its baby stages so don't plant it in a huge container. Although it is tempting to do this to save work later on it will make it more difficult to keep the moisture levels correct, to keep a decent climate and is also an ineffective use of space overall.

A pot that has a volume of about 1 litre is ideal. Half-fill it with soil such as the BioBizz All-Mix which is already fertlised or Light Mix which is better for plants propagated from seeds. There is plenty of soil to choose from here , all of good quality. Clear a cube in the soil for the cube to nestle into.

When transferring the plants to the pots it is important to do this within a short timescale. Leaving them exposed for too long can cause damage and ideally you should get them settled into their new home within 15 minutes of removing from the propagator.

Whichever soil you do use will have a determination upon the amount of nutrient to use. If you add too much then it can potentially remain in the soil and further down the line it will lead to high salt levels within which the plant may struggle.

Feed the young plants delicately and adjust this according to how well the roots are growing, as as always, where the dilution of concentrated nutrients is required then pay close attention to what the particular brand recommends on the label.

Nutrients

To avoid a transplant shock when transferring the plants some nutrients will help the plant to establish itself in the new environment.

Nitrogen helps the plants to grow new tissues by building proteins, although too much can give too much foliage which may overtake the production of flowers or fruits.

Potassium improves the plants' resistance to disease and also stablises its metabolism.

Phosphorous further encourages the growth of roots and helps to transfer energy between different parts of the plant.

The required fertilsers are known as N-P-K fertilisers, N being the chemical symbol for nitrogen, P for phosphorus and K for potassium.

Growth Technology Formulex is a good growth promoter for young plants and is fine for both hard and soft water.

Take good care of the plant from it's early days and it will soon be ready to move to a larger pot!

Ladybirds versus Spider Mites

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 01 Nov 2018 16:20:55 GMT

These predators will munch the little terrors away!

We wrote about spider mites and the damage that they can cause to your plants. Being around 1mm in diameter, spider mites are so tiny they are almost difficult to see with the naked eye. What is visible is the damage to your crop if they have the opportunity to take over.

There are various modern methods of eliminating these, and in particular preventing them, and these can be read about in the post about how to deal with spider mites.

Nature's traditional method is for predators to hunt and consume the pests and ladybirds or ladybugs are one of the strongest where this is concerned. When mites attack the plant it emits a chemical that the ladybirds are attracted to. Ladybirds are huge compared to the parasites and their appetites are huge too - an adult can easily munch away 100 mites every day!

Sourcing the Ladybirds

There is no need to go out into the garden and hunt for them, it is possible to get packets of them online or from us. Simply open the packet and release them into your growroom and think of them as part of your security!

Ladybirds feed on pollen so you can also keep and grow passion fruit or sunflowers near to your usual crop so as to keep them happy and well fed.

Ladybirds do hibernate over winter and they tend to huddle in groups at this time. They also go through periods of time where they temporarily lose interest in the spider mites! For this reason it is always wise to have stock of the chemical treatments such as GuardnAid or Smoke Bombs.

In addition, there is another thing worth mentioning. There has recently been various stories about an invasion of ladybirds with STDs (sexually transmitted diseases). Whilst partially true, the Asian Harlequin species from the United States can only pass this disease among themselves and not to humans!

Plant Propagation from Seeds

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 30 Oct 2018 13:23:43 GMT

Enjoy the diversity of your plants' characteristics

We recently discussed how to clone and propagate plants and whilst great for the connoisseur, propagating from seeds is for those who are starting out or growing a fresh crop from scratch. Each seed has its own genetics and will grow into a plant with completely unique characteristics.

The plant cloning method in our recent article uses the ROOT!T Propagation Kit and we are going to focus on the same equipment as we talk about growing from seeds.

Germination

Before growing the seeds need to be germinated. Ensure the seeds being used are relatively fresh and ideally from a sealed container or packet. Seeds that have been previously opened can be stored at a low temperature such as 10 degrees Centigrade (50 degrees Farenheit) and this will help them to stay dormant for longer. Most packets of seeds have an expiry date upon them and if you have a packet of seeds that has passed its date, get a new pack rather than entice the inevitable disappointment of a poor crop.

A traditional method to germinate seeds is to place them in between a sheet of moist tissue in a warm environment. After a day or two the radicle (root) will break through the seed shell.

Another method is known as 'Scarification'. For small hard seeds a jar can be lined with rough sandpaper for the seeds to be shaken within it. The impact on the seeds is such that they are more likely to absorb water and germinate. For larger seeds that be easily hand-held an incision can be made into the skin.

A modern way is to soak them in Nitrozyme for about 24 hours and then transfer them to the propagator. ROOT!IT Natural Sponges are ideal for this and come included in the kit.

If you already have one of these kits or something similar, be sure to sterilise the kit if it has been used before. The same applies to the table, tools and your hands.

Soak the sponges in water straight before you use them and give them a gentle squeeze so that they do not hold too much water. For growth stimulation the ROOT!T First Feed in the kit can be added to the water. Place each seed into the small hole at the top of a sponge with the radicle facing downwards. A depth of about 5mm is ideal and tweezers can be used for smaller seeds. Tearing off a small corner from the sponge to place over the seed will increase the humidity and reduce the lighting levels to give an environment that they prefer.

Place the tray of sponges into the propagator and close the vents. This maintains a stable temperature and contains the humidity. The best temperature is between 22 and 25 degrees centigrade and a ROOT!T Heat Mat is a brilliant way to keep this steady.

To eliminate condensation be sure to occasionally remove the lid and wipe over with a clean cloth. Be sure not to over-water the seeds as they will not thrive in a waterlogged environment. The seeds will take up to 10 days for the roots to break through to the bottom of the sponges, with about 3-5 days being the typical timescale.

Once they reach this stage it is then time to progress to the next level!

There are plenty of growth methods, the traditional way of using soil and also aquaponics, aeroponics and of course hydroponics. In a future article we will discuss the various hydroponic systems that are available along with their features and benefits.

Plant Propagation from Cuttings

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 26 Oct 2018 15:57:17 GMT

Getting new-for-old from your plants

Propagation

It is possible to clone plants so that the offspring will be genetically identical to the mother plant. Clearly when good results are being achieved from a growth this is a good thing to do. The qualities of the two plants will be identical so if given the same growing conditions their growth will be too.

One thing to note is that this is not the case when growing from seeds and the only way to keep the same identity is by cloning. When you have a plant that is performing well, replicating it can be an amazing and satisfying experience. The best method of replicating it is by taking cuttings.

Environment

It goes without saying that to get good results the cuttings should be taken from a plant that is in good condition. For plants that are grown indoors the best environmental conditions will be lighting for 18 hours per day, temperatures in the region of 18-22 degrees centigrade and a humidity that ranges from 50-70%.

The best lighting to use is MH (metal halide), HPS (high pressure sodium) or CFL (compact fluorescent lights).

Giving the stock plant the best growing conditions will ensure that the cuttings are taken from strong growing tips on the mother plant.

Preparing the Stock Plant

A week before cuttings are taken it is sensible to adjust the feeding quantities. Feed the mother plant with nutrient solutions that are about half of the strength that they usually receive. One reason for this is that nitrogen in the feed helps with the growth and gives plant tissue that is soft. This kind of plant tissue is not the best for cuttings so modifying the feed will allow the plant to adjust.

It is recommended by our partners at Growth Technology that applications of Clonex Mist spray are provided on a couple of occasions in the week prior to cuttings being taken. Clonex further strengthens the plant tissues which will ensure that the best results are achieved.

Taking Cuttings

Cuttings taken from a plant are identical as far as genetics are concerned. Prepare a nice toolbox beforehand to help you perform a clean and tidy job. The ROOT!T Rooting Sponge Propagation Kit contains the propagator and cubes plus a scalpel, rooting gel and first feed to help the cuttings on their way. And importantly, good lighting to use is the T5 EnviroGro from Lumii

Take a cutting from a strong and healthy tip on the plant, ideally with about 4 or 5 leaves. Remove the lower two leaves (nodes) to give the stem plenty of length to embed into a root cube. Perform this on a cutting board and just below where the leaves were removed make a diagonal cut to the stem.

Immediately cover the fresh cuts by dipping them into Clonex Gel or something similar and then prepare the root cubes.

Ideally the root cubes will have been soaked for a period of time in a half-strength nutrient such as Formulex with an EC (electrical conductivity) of around 10. Check the pH of the feeding solution and aim to keep it between 5.8 and 6.3.

Once the fresh cuttings have had a moment to benefit from the Clonex gel, prepare the root cube holes with the dibber and insert the stem into the cube. Then place them into the propagator.

Environment

Once the cuttings are safely in the root cubes, give them a spray with the Clonex mist to increase the moisture levels around the leaves and provide nutrition. A small layer of clay pebbles in the propagator with just a touch of water will provide an ideal level of humidity once the propagator dome is on with the vents closed.

The moisture below the root cubes will also draw the roots out from the leaves in search of the water.

Ideal conditions are temperatures between 21 and 24 degrees centigrade with a humidity between 80-90%

Cuttings take between 5-10 days to root through the cubes and they will then be ready for potting. Open the vents after a few days to allow ventilation and with this method all of the cuttings should have rooted fully. They will then be ready to transfer to the main growing environment.

Happy growing!

Retail Contracts for Hydroponics Startup

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 25 Oct 2018 16:03:12 GMT

Welsh firm also wins a £400,000 funding boost

Phytoponics are a brand new Hydroponics growth firm who are based in Aberystwyth have just received a massive £400,000 boost to their fresh enterprises. After running a successful test scheme for hydroponically grown tomatoes, Phytoponics are also on the verge of winning two major contracts to supply major supermarkets in the UK.

The system that Phytoponics use is where inflatable bags contain nutrified water to give environmentally friendly growth methods that are of extremely high performance, both in terms of finance and efficiency. Each growing module is constructed with low-cost foldable materials that contain aerators and nutrient channels to give the plants a great diet of water, oxygen and nutrition.

Adam Dixon, Chief Executive of Phytoponics, won the Young Champions of the Earth award in 2017 and is expecting to take production to a large commercial scale following the investment he has received. On an international level much of our food production is heading towards hydroponics methods for many reasons, one of which is the efficient use of space and the precise control that is available over the crop production. Far less soil is required and water can be used much more effectively than with traditional methods.

The Hydrosac technology from Phytoponics is designed for large vine crops, mainly peppers, cucumbers and tomatoes and the hydrosacs can potentially be used in areas of natural or man-made disaster to replenish and sustain the food production.

Read more about Phytoponics here

Which PK Booster is for you?

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 18 Oct 2018 16:57:24 GMT

PK 13/14 or PK 9/18?

PK boosters are designed to be used during the middle to late stages of flowering and contain potassium and phosphorous which help the plant to reach the flowering stage earlier than they would naturally. They direct all of the energy towards the end of the stems and this speeds up the growth stage. As a result, the flowering stage in increased which means that bigger and better yields are produced.

Potassium

Potassium speeds up the growth of plants by creating chemical changes within it. As a result the strength and quality of the plant is improved and more sugars are produced. This gives a better taste to the final produt.

Phosphorus

Plants need various nutrients, including phosphorus. Phosphorus strengthens the formation of cells and enhances the transfer of energy during the flowering stage. With a good amount of phosphorus the weight, potency and quality at the flowering stage is improved.

Easy Growing

PK13/14 boosters are ideal for anybody who is just starting out with growing or prefers to keep a more laid-back approach to their work. The concentration of elements is lower and this makes them easier to use. A few good examples are listed below.

Plant Magic Bloom Boost PK

The Plant Magic Bloom Boost has added sulphur and magnesium. This improves the plant's intake of potassium. It also helps to prevent other nutrients being locked out whilst increasing the production of amino acids. This gives a better quality harvest.

Overall, the quality and yield from plants that enjoy a Bloom Boost from Plant Magic is increased because the nutrient profile is more balanced.

Dilution: 1-2ml per litre

House & Garden PK 13-14

The House & Garden PK 13-14 provides the plants with plenty of potassium and phosphorous which helps the plants to achieve a rapid formation of fruit and flowers.

By using only high grade quality minerals and taking care in the mixing process, House & Garden ensure that the end product is perfect every time. H&G offer the complete nutritional cycle for all plants with their cutting edge technology formulas.

Dilution: 1.5ml per litre

For the Grower wanting Bigger and Better

Plant Magic Platinum PK 9-18

Plant Magic's Platinum PK 9-18 is an excellent PK booster which due to its complex nature and high concentration is recommended for growers with experience. It contains twice the amount of potassium to phosphorus and this has been scientifically shown to really grab the maximum potential from your flowers and fruits.

The structure, flavour and quantity of yields is significantly enhanced, as is the quantity. As well as the potassium and phosphorus, an additional blend of sulphur, nitrogen and amino acids really give this PK booster an excellent kick.

Dilution: 0.25-0.5ml per litre

Pop in or call us for more details!

Meet us at CannaFest 2018

Tue, 16 Oct 2018 11:21:40 GMT

2nd to 4th November at PVA Expo Prague Letnany

Cannafest is the largest trade show in the world for suppliers and growers to meet about growing plants for medicinal purposes. It is taking place at the PVA Expo Prague which is one of the finest exhibition centres in Europe.

There will be displays and demonstrations that span the huge range of growing techniques that are available for indoor plant cultivation. With the phenomenal amount of suppliers including Hydrogarden and ourselves from Emporium it is destined to be yet another fantastic opportunity to meet, share knowledge and learn about the new technology that is available for efficient, productive and fun growing!

Activities

Professional Conference

in the modern congress hall of the exhibition centre there will be a professional conference that will be open to the public.

The plant of the past and the future

Several growth themes will be discussed to educate on the growth and use of the plants to provide a great summary of knowledge about the herb and how it is used in food, medicine and clothing. The themes will include the botany, history, arts, medicinal use and the secondary use for textiles. This list is not extensive and there is a lot more that will be covered!

Reading Room

To take a breather from all of the action there is a Cannafest Reading Room. The reading room will contain specialist literature such as the newspaper Soft Secrets.

Vapo Lounge

Do you want to know what is the difference between vaporization and smoking, or you just need to get a good advice when choosing the right vaporizer? Then you should definitely visit Cannafest Vapo Lounge, where our experts will tell you everything you need to know about vaporization of various herbs.

You can try vaporizing camomile, salvia, mint, and dozens of other herbs.

Vaporization is inhalation of active plant essences meant for everyone. It is especially suitable for smokers who would like to find an alternative to their bad habit.

This is sponsored by Storz Bickel who manufacture the infamous Volcano vaporiser!

Accommodation

Cannafest 2018 recommend the following hotels...

Clarion Congress Hotel

The Clarion Congress Hotel Prague is the leading congress hotel focusing on international conferences, congresses and events, however, it is very convenient for leisure too. The guests may benefit from wide range of services under one roof and perfect connection to the historical city centre. The hotel is situated right at the Vysočanská underground station, yellow line B, 15 minutes from the historical city centre and 20 km from the international Václav Havel Airport Prague, 15 minutes by car or bus (public transport) from PVA Expo Prague Letňany.

Absolutum Boutique Hotel

Absolutum Boutique Hotel is a newly renovated boutique hotel in Prague 7 Holešovice with the stylish restaurant Restaurant Salut, a modern conference and training center and a relaxation wellness center.

All rooms are stylishly decorated and pleasantly lit by daylight. Each room is equipped with air conditioning, a minibar, and a designer bathroom including bathroom cosmetics or a hair dryer. Accommodation offers to use WI-FI 60/60 Mbps.

Absolutum Boutique Hotel is located in the wider center of Prague – Holešovice, just meters from Nádraží Holešovice Metro station. Both trams and metro will take you to the historic center within a few minutes. PVA EXPO Letňany is easily accessible by metro.

Click here for full booking information for these great hotels

Tickets

Tickets for pre-sale rates will be available only until November 1st, 2018. From November 2nd the prices will be the same as when bought on the spot.

Ticket prices:

1-day ticket: 200 Kč / 8 € on location, presale: 150 Kč
3-day ticket: 350 Kč / 15 € on location, presale: 250 Kč (ticket is nontransferable)
Disabled – entry free (A valid disability card is required to get a free entry)

Special offer 3+ 1 free!!! Of you buy 3 one-day or three- day tickets in advance, you can get the 4th ticket for free! For this offer please select the ticket category marked as “3+1 for free” and you will get 4 tickets from us for a price of 3 tickets.

No dogs or other pets allowed for safety reasons.

Buy tickets here https://www.cannafest.com/en/vstupenky/

Hope to see you there!

Hydroponics is Flying High!

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 04 Oct 2018 16:07:02 GMT

Emirates Airlines only serve the best!

Emirates Airlines have teamed up with Californian based Crop One to deliver a $40 million vertical farming system. The project is set to be built next to the Al Maktoum International Airport in Dubai on a 130,000 square foot plot of land.

Due to the climate conditions in Dubai the cost of growing fresh produce can be extremely high, to the extent that some traditional growers have had no alternative than to give up completely.

The anticipated level of production from this facility is estimated to be in the region of 2,700kg of leafy greens each day and this will be achieved without the aid of herbicides and pesticides.

Vertical Hydroponics is a system that has been used in the UAE for nearly half a century and is considered productive due to the amount that can be grown in a relatively small area. With a number of local farms this is becoming well established and the partnership between Emirates Airlines and Crop One is expected to provide the largest system of its type in the world.

The climate is typically arid and fresh water will be provided with a water desalination system. Air conditioning that provides climate control will accompany the automatic irrigation systems and the source of energy will be through LED lighting, which is considered to be the most environmentally friendly.

The system is expected to use 99% less water than traditional growth methods in the vicinity and will provide vegetables that have not had to be imported and are therefore very fresh in comparison.

The chairman of Emirates Airlines, Sheikh Ahmed Al Maktoum says that " “This investment to build and operate the world’s largest vertical farming facility aligns with the UAE’s drive for more agricultural self-sufficiency, a vision which began with the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the UAE’s founding father."

“The introduction of ground-breaking technology at the facility also enhances Dubai’s position as a global innovation hub.”

Vertical Hydroponics

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 20 Sep 2018 11:05:33 GMT

Maximise your Space and Grow More

Short on space? Your yield can be increased by growing vertically! This method is actually used for much of our commercial food production and has history that goes back as far as the Aztecs.

The most common horizontal systems have several plants growing next to each other. Because of the distance needed between the plants much of the overhead light does not reach them and the energy goes to waste. With this method a lot of space and energy goes to waste.

A more efficient method is to stack several shelves around a central source of light. With strings and trellises these layers can be stacked one on top of the other. This design takes up far less space for more plants, reduces the energy bill and the cost of the lighting components.

The source of light does need to be kept cool, particularly given that more energy is effectively being delivered in a tighter space.LED lights are great for this. Although the initial cost is higher than more traditional bulbs this is compensated by the reduced expenditure on energy. Either way a cooling fan underneath the light source will spread the heat upward and away.

To make sure each side of the plant gets exposed to an equal amount of light be sure to rotate them consistently and on a regular basis.

A steady water supply is of course also needed for the system to function effectively and the layout of the plants has an impact on the requirements. The NFT Nutrient Film Technique is a good efficient system for this.

An investment of time and a little bit of cash can be a very good method of utilising all of your available grow room space and maximising your yield

Rotary Hydroponics

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 06 Sep 2018 11:35:54 GMT

The Space-Aged Growing System

Rotary Hydroponics is a striking and eye-catching system that was originally developed by NASA to grow fresh fruit and vegetables in space. NASA's goal is to eat a fresh and tasty salad on Mars and in the meantime they are happy to set this up on the International Space Station.

With a real futuristic and sci-fi look to it this could also fit well into a well equipped and tech-savvy homeplace.

With the light being central to the growth and the unit rotating, plants grow towards it and all areas receive an equal amount of light. As with many hydroponic systems this can be fully automated and also controlled with a smartphone.

These systems are available in many different sizes and can potentially be stacked together for a full scale industrial setup. For domestic use a unit could be built into a kitchen setting, perhaps taking the space of one of the food cupboards so the food is literally being topped up naturally!

Alternatively, a decorative tabletop device could be perfect for growing your herbs.

Whilst we do not stock these items directly in-store, we can get them and can certainly assist with the ongoing nutrient provisions!

10 Reasons to use Filtered and Low EC Water

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Mon, 03 Sep 2018 10:34:24 GMT

Water is the Stimulant of Growth

The growth of plants begins at the roots and in a soil based system there are friendly micro-organisms that contribute to this. Using filtered water encourages the roots to go stronger and means the micro-organisms can flourish.

Filtered and RO (reverse osmosis) is water that has had the impurities removed and is as pure as the rain that would fall from the sky before the days of air pollution.

Below are ten reasons to support the use of filtered and RO water and why a filter system from Geyser is a fantastic solution.

1 - MORE NUTRIENTS FOR OUR PLANTS

The electrical conductivity (EC) of water is determined by the amount of solids dissolved within it and plants perform at their best when the EC is between 1.4 and 2.2.

Pure water has an EC of zero which gives the grower more control over the amount and types of nutrients that can be added.

This definitely enhances the quality of the yield!

The EC of your water can easily be monitored with a Bluelab Truncheon

2 – HEALTHIER ROOTS

A lower EC means that less salt residue such as limescale will develop in the soil around the roots. This means that the plants can absorb far more of the nutrients that are added to the water solution.

3 – PROTECT OUR SOILS

There are many micro-organisms naturally in soil that protect the roots of plants. From their very own feeding and survival mechanisms they help the roots to keep healthy and clean.

Healthy and clean roots are far more efficient at absorbing nutrients.

Chlorinated tap water can destroy the micro-organisms so filtering the water is important.

4 – MAINTAIN A BALANCED pH

Plants prosper when the pH of the water is close to 6.5. Using RO water that is devoid of impurities makes it far easier to maintain this pH.

A couple of great pH meters for level checks are the Plant!T and the Essentials

5 – AVOID NUTRIENT LOCK OUT

Water that has a high EC typically contains calcium and magnesium and it is these that cause limescale and what is known as hard water. These minerals, combined with the added nutrients, can oversaturate the roots, effectively blocking them from absorbing the required amount of the added nutrients.

This is often referred to as nutrient lock out

Reducing the EC avoids this issue.

6 – PROTECT OTHER MICROORGANISMS

Specialist micro-organisms can be added to a growth system for many purposes, for example the elimination of parasites or worms.

Adding these to hard or chlorinated water is almost pointless as they will struggle to survive.

Adding them to EC water means that they can effectively do their job.

7 – AVOID GROWING PROBLEMS

Common problems in any growing system are dry or yellowing leaves and stunted growth of the plants.

This can be easily avoided when the growth is started with water of a low EC as the plants can then absorb exactly the correct amount of nutrients to prosper.

8 – ACHIEVE BETTER RESULTS FROM OUR NUTRIENTS

Providing pure water means that our plants will not absorb anything undesirable and that there will be nothing to counteract what the nutrients provide.

9 – PURE WATER IS THE FOUNDATION FOR GROWING

Just as we should build a house on a strong foundation, the same applies to plants. Plants can then reach their full potential.

10 – QUALITY WATER FOR US AND FOR OUR PLANTS

Depending upon where we live, many of us will not drink unfiltered tap water.

Your plants deserve the same goodness and respect!

Many thanks to our colleagues at Growth Technology for the great advice on this subject!

Nigerian Entrepreneur - Shipping Container Farming

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 17 Aug 2018 11:29:53 GMT

Oluwayimika Angel Adelaja overcomes the climate issues

Because leafy greens do not flourish in Nigeria's hot climates stores usually have to import their salads. With hot climates being partly attributed to excessive fuel consumption the transportation method could potentially perpetuate this problem.

Oluwayimika Angel Adelaja has delivered a solution to this - utilising a shipping container to grow the produce indoors. Fresh Direct Nigeria have the ideal temperatures to produce the desired crops, therefore keeping it homegrown and alleviating the transportation requirements.

In what is effectively a gully system, similar to what a London University Academy have installed through Emporium, this system allows far more control over the growing temperature and delivery of water with the required nutrients.

Watch this video from the BBC to see it in action!

Bury the soil....

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 10 Aug 2018 13:34:02 GMT

...and embrace the Nutrient Film Technique!

With the Nutrient Film Technique, or NFT for short, plants are placed in the grow system without any extra growing media which means there is no more lugging bags of soil and coco around!

A solution of nutrients is constantly pumped over the plants' bare roots and the run-off flows back into the reservoir. Fresh nutrients are mixed with fresh water to keep the system topped up above its minimum level. The tank only needs to be emptied and refilled on a monthly basis! The pH is checked on a weekly basis to give an indication of the nutrient levels.

Growth is fast and healthy because there's no soil to restrict root access to the constantly available water, nutrients and oxygen.

To transfer plants into the Gro-Tank or Multi-Duct just tip the plant out of its pot and place it straight into the Gro-Tank or Multi-Duct tray without adding any extra media.

If you've started in rockwool just place the rockwool block directly onto the Gro-Tank or Multi-Duct tray when you're ready to transplant.

Switch to NFT and you'll never switch back!

How to set up and use the NFT system

Ensure plants are well-rooted before they go into the system. The starter media should be covered in white roots.

Spacing - as a rule of thumb 1 plant per square foot. This can be increased or decreased depending on plant variety.
Leave the pump running constantly.
Start plants in either

If using rockwool cubes completely remove plastic wrapping from the cubes.
If moving from pots to the Gro-Tank remove the plants from the pots so the roots can access more oxygen.
All but the smallest of plants will need additional support, i.e. yoyo’s or pea netting.
Set the flow rate on the pump so that the nutrient solution moves over the spreader mat constantly, but not so much that the roots are submerged.
Cut lengths of spreader mat long enough to allow an overhang of a few inches from the tray into the tank.
Plants under lights will take up water at a faster rate than they take up nutrient which means the EC will rise over time. Top up the tank with half strength nutrient solution, check EC and add extra nutrient if required.
Then adjust pH level and perform a solution change every 2-3 weeks to keep the pH and EC balanced.

Feeding Guide

The Nutrients and pH

Topping up the Tank

Emptying the Gro-Tank

Watch the NFT system in action!

Contact or visit us for more information about the Nutriculture NFT Nutrient Film Technique system

Keeping the Ideal Grow-Room Temperature

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 07 Aug 2018 13:15:36 GMT

How to maintain a steady and consistent temperature

Maintaining the ideal atmospheric conditions within a growroom is essential to give good growth rates and healthy harvests. With a bit of knowledge, experimentation and, most of all, good care this can be achieved. Temperature is one of the main dictators in terms of a plant's success as it has a significant impact on the water intake, light processing and intake of nutrients.

In terms of the light processing, the temperature has an influence on how well the plant can photosynthesize. Photosynthesis is the natural method that plants use to generate sugars and energy from light sources and is absolutely essential. If the ambient temperature is above or below the ideal range then the photosynthesis becomes a lot less efficient and therefore the plants will generate lower yields.

Maintaning a Consistent Temperature

Before we investigate this it is of course important to have a thermometer in the environment. This is the starting point when aiming to obtain a uniform temperature throughout the grow room. Most lighting equipment will produce a higher level of heat in certain areas which will mean the balance is not correct.

The typical method of correcting this is to ensure a steady and consistent flow of air around the room. There are many types of fans available and oscillating are certainly a good starting point. The movement of the fan will mean that all areas of the room are targeted and that there is no hot or cool air lingering in one area.

The Ideal Growing Temperatures

Plants tend to flourish between 70 and 80 degrees farenheit, which is around 21 to 26 centigrade. This can be used for the early stages and the flowering stages. By using the thermometer the temperature can be checked on a regular basis. Using the thermometer in several different areas of the room will give an indication of how good and effective the air flow is.

An experimental method of finding the best temperature is adjusting the air flow during the vegetative growth stage. By measuring the plant growth each time the air flow and corresponding temperature is adjusted for a period of time the ideal temperature for efficient growth can be established.

Different plants have different preferences so this needs to be considered when growing different breeds in the same area. Also, the best temperature for the flowering stage is similar to that of the vegetative growth.

Rest Periods

When the lights are off and the plants are transpiring the normal temperature should be about 10-15 degrees lower (5 degrees centigrade) that it is during the lighting period. This makes sense as it kind of corresponds to the night time temperature drop in the outside open air during growth periods.

If the temperatures drop any lower then it can lead to condensation which will then invite mould and fungi.

To prevent this, an electric heater can be used during these periods. Again, the temperature needs to be monitored so that it is kept within its ideal resting range of 55 to 70 degrees. An excellent device to assist with this is the Ram Air-Pro II which will control the heating and fans according to how warm the grow room is.

The Best Temperature for Seeds

Seeds enjoy a slightly lower temperature than plants. They will of course not yet see the light so small electric heaters or heat mats will assist. Many seeds prefer different conditions and most seed packs give an indication of what to aim for.

Experimentation!

It may take more than one grow cycle to find the ideal temperature but it will be worth the effort. As with most experimentation the best results often don't immediately come along but when they do it is worth the time and effort invested!

Hidden Growing in Paris

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 27 Jul 2018 15:50:11 GMT

La Caverne produce delicacies in a disused car park....

We recently reported that London and New York both have underground hydroponic farms that produce delicacies and we now find that there is a similar operatinon in Paris right now....

In a previously abandoned car park beneath a residential complex lays La Caverne underground farm who specialise in growing healthy food.

As well as the mushrooms, La Caverne also produce fresh organic herbs and vegetables to the food outlets in the area.

In La Caverne's own words about the car park, they 'decided to recycle it into an urban farm!' and their slogan states that they are 'the only organic farm of Paris"

The products that La Caverne grow range from the popular to the slightly more obscure. One of the more commonplace items is the famous Button mushroom that is good for protein and rich in copper, potassium, selenium and vitamin B.

Among the less commonly known is the Shiitake. A cap mushroom of Japanese origin it has similar nutritional properties to the button and a slightly different taste.

Also grown are the Oyster mushrooms, the Microgreen and the slightly mysterious Endive.

More details can be seen here on La Caverne's website

Here is the Q&A section from La Caverne's website, which is such a pleasure to read we have copied and pasted it in full to share here!

Your vision in one word?

Being part of the renewal of the tomorrow’s cities by transforming unused urban space to produce amazing vegetables!

What are your objectives?

They are numerous. We want to promote a new model of urban agriculture: at the same productive and virtuous. We also aim at creating new ways of producing, at restoring the profession of farmer, often poorly understood, at creating local jobs nonrelocatable, and eventually offer to the urban citizens a local and tasty production.

How do you define your production method?

We are using the “ underground market gardening ”. The idea is to cultivate, within the same space, different species of vegetables that interact in a positive way. For instance: the CO2 generated by the mushrooms is used by the microgreens to grow up, the natural materials are composted for our cultivations… Those methods are widely inspired by permaculture!

Isn’t it more expensive to produce in the city?

Actually it is the opposite: we work without any intermediary so that we can offer you better products at the best price.

What about the light?

As you have noticed: no sunlight beneath the ground… It is not a problem for us: we opted for cultivations adapted to our underground environment. Mushrooms do not require a lot of light to grow and chicory grows without any light: our energy consumption is actually rather low! For the vegetables which need light (salads, microgreens, aromatic herbs…) we use LED lamps.

What is a LED and why do you use it?

LED ( Light-Emitting Diode ) consume less energy than usual lamps and produce also less heat: we can adjust the light spectrum for an optimized development.

What is the productivity?

It depends of the cultivation. It may vary from 2kg/m2/month for the aromatic herbs, up to 300kg/m2/month for the endives. We have developed our cultivation system by drawing inspiration from the vertical farms.

To whom do you sell your production?

The core of our approach lies in our relationship with the customer. We want to recreate the lost link between farmers and customers, and to participate in the renewal of local food networks. We sell directly to individuals as well as to restaurants and little groceries.

How do you handle transportation of your products?

Our goal is a transport 100% without CO2 emissions. Either by electric bikes either by any kind of electric engine but those one are very expensive: we are currently seeking for a way to finance it.

What is the quality of your products?

They are the freshest and the most local in the city. We harvest the vegetables on the very morning we deliver it to you: hard to do better for the freshness!

Are the products wholesome?

The first harvests, tested in laboratory, present absolutely no trace of harmful particles for human. So our products are not only tasty but also super healthy.

Do you use pesticides? Synthetic fertilizer? GMO?

No, no and… No! None of those things is used in our farm. Our production is even certified organic for the majority of our cultivations.

How did you found the site?

We had the privilege to be allowed to transform this place after winning a call for proposals led by the Paris’s city council “les Parisculteurs”. We have been laureate in November 2016.

To whom belongs the place?

It is the property of ICF Habitat La Sablière , a social lessor very involved in the north of Paris. It supported us during the all process of the project. We are just unusual tenants…

What are the characteristics of this place?

The place that was given to us is a former underground parking, abandoned for years. The level on which we are stretches over more than 3500 m 2.

An underground parking? Isn’t it polluted?

No risk! Air and surface analysis have been conduct by the city council and the lessor. It was compulsory before dedicated it to agriculture. Vehicles no longer go in our parking since years and we only use electric engine for the cultivations. What’s more, we are in a closed space so we are able to control air quality.

Do you recycle your waste?

Of course, as any good farmer we know that compost is an excellent fertilizer. Our organic wastes are recycled on site with vermiculture methods.

Vermiculture?

It is a composting technique which is accelerated thanks to little worms. Those guys are our allies: they help us degrade the waste faster in order to produce a natural and rich fertilizer.

You consume a lot of energy right?

LED cultivations represent only 10% of our production. *** requires a very low amount of energy to grow because we opted for adapted species like mushrooms and endives. To put the lid on it: our energy is 100% renewable thanks to our partnership with Enercoop.

What about the social aspect of the project?

Good question Jack! Our farm is located beneath a building with more than 300 social housing. We aim at providing them with our products at a preferential tariff, at making educational workshops and we also want to hire local people. Don’t forget that we are located at Porte de La Chapelle, a “priority” neighborhood: we want to participate in the renewal of this area.

How many employees do you have?

We are currently 10 people working on site and we intend to hire 5 more.

How do you recruit?

We made a commitment with the less or: we hire in priority local people. However we are looking for urban farmer not only in Paris. We believe in what we do this is why we are developing our activity: in other French cities and soon in Europe!

What is it to be an urban farmer?

Being a farmer is job complex and varied, this is why we like it. Each one of us as an appropriate formation for its core responsibilities but we are against iterative and monotonous jobs. This why we all participate in the different tasks: planning, harvesting, cultivating, delivery, marketing…

Is it your first try?

No, our first site “Le Bunker Comestible” is located in an old gunpowder magazine in Strasbourg. It was perfect to try and improve our cultivation systems. It produced its first harvests in April 2017; two urban farmers are managing it autonomously.

Where does this idea come from?

It is nowadays a widespread idea that agriculture took a wrong path during the past century. Massive use of pesticides and fertilizers, production travels through entire continents, agribusiness scandals,… We really want to shake things up and cities are full of unused space: bingo!

Who is at the initiative of this project?

We are two and we met… directly on the site of La Caverne during the visits of “Les Parisculteurs”. In the beginning it is only 2 people: Jean-Noël Gertz, heat engineer and founder of Le Bunker Comestible in Strasbourg, and Théophile Champagnat, agronomist and nomadic cook. But our enterprise won’t work that well without our skilful team.

New York Underground

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 26 Jul 2018 10:45:08 GMT

Local, Rare and Fresh all Year

We recently published a blog about Growing Underground , a hydroponics farm that operates fantastically in a disused air raid shelter in south west London.

New Yorkers have their underground concepts too and in the basement of a Manhattan Michelin 2 Star restaurant can be found Farm One's vertical hydroponic garden.

Set up in 2016 by Australian entrepreneur Rob Laing the farm produces a real diverse and definitive range of herbs that in some cases are rather rare to find elsewhere. Chefs in a Michelin 2 Star restaurant certainly appreciate them!

With over 560 different herbs being grown, Rob says that he 'wouldn’t want to pay for a space with great retail frontage' and that all he needs is 'a floor drain, water, power, temperature control, and the ability to seal the space so bugs don’t get in.'

The beauty of this setup in such a central location is that herbs can be delivered to the most distinctive eating establishments by bike in very little time at all. This means the herbs are practically fresh-picked for the order of the meal!

Those who order the food at such an establishment may peruse whether the best method of growing food is below street level in New York. Neil Mattson, who is an associate professor in the subject at Cornell University says that there is nothing to feel disillusioned about because 'plants don’t care whether they get light from the sun or the lamps. It’s the same thing.'

The principles for Farm One are as such:

To grow for rarity and delight.
To grow for flavor and nutrition.
To grow a stone's throw from where we eat.
To grow pure; GMO, contaminant and pesticide-free.
To grow plants with the same care that we plate dishes.
To grow for chefs, on-demand, year-round.

On Rob Laing's personal website he goes on to dismiss a few myths about hydroponics:

"There's a misconception that the taste of hydroponically-grown produce is inferior. The truth is much simpler: If you choose common varieties and grow purely for appearance and yield, you will get fat, lazy, bland and boring plants whether you grow hydroponically or in soil. If instead you choose varieties and cultivars for the best flavor, and grow to maximize that flavor, hydroponics will achieve the same quality or better than growing from soil. The beneficial bacteria in the soil that is sometimes referenced seems to aid in nutrient absorption but not flavor improvement. And a number of studies now have shown equivalent or improved nutrition from hydroponically-grown produce over conventional agriculture."

This goes to show that with the correct knowledge, care and techniques, almost anything can be grown anywhere using hydroponics

Desert Hydroponics

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 24 Jul 2018 10:28:05 GMT

Saudi Arabia prepare for a reduction in oil use

In preparation for oil becoming something that we can have less reliance on Saudi Arabia are taking steps to build a sustainable growing system in the desert region.

Due to the location they are having to concentrate on the reduction of water usage. In the town of Jeddah plants are rooted in mid-air and nutrients are provided through a mist. This system is called Aeroponics and is the first farm in the Middle East to use the humidity in the air for its water needs.

Australia have areas that have similar climate issues and are using the more traditional hydroponic method without the reliance on freshwater supplies. Sundrop Farms have a solar powered system and the water is sources from the nearby seawater gulf. The water is desalinated through evaporation by using the heat from the sun.

15% of the country's tomato crop is grown at Sundrop Farms

Teaching Hydroponics in the Bronx

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 12 Jul 2018 10:06:11 GMT

High School Students learn to grow in class

High school students in the Bronx put their green fingers to work in practical lessons on how to set up and use a hydroponic system.

As part of the living environment curriculum for over 200 high schoolers at Bronx International High School the students designed and built the system prior to setting it up.

It has been successfully running since January 2018 and the class grew lettuce, peppers and basil indoors without soil.

Students wish to take this knowledge from the classroom into their everyday lives.

This is a great approach and a similar project that we helped to install at the University Academy of Engineering here in London shows that it can be set up in practically any living environment.

Watch the report from News 12 to see more!

http://bronx.news12.com/clip/14435619/bronx-students-grow-produce-in-class-with-hydroponics-systems

Hydroponics Systems - The Wick

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 19 Jun 2018 14:40:19 GMT

A simple method of irrigation

The wick system is a great way to start with hydroponics because it is very straightforward to build.

To begin with a tank is required as a reservoir to contain the nutrient solution. A tray is laid on top for the plants to reside and a wick similar to a candle wick is dangled into the solution.

The plants sit in a soilless growing medium such as perlite or vermiculite and the wick leads towards the roots of the plants. The roots do not need to hang into the nutrient solution.

Unlike other hydroponic systems the plants do not need net pots to hold the growing medium. The entire tray is filled with the medium and the seedlings are spread evenly throughout.

It is a very easy system to operate as it contains no moving parts and is effectively self-sufficient. One thing to be aware of is that it is only suitable for plants that require little maintenance and a relatively low water intake.

Plants that will succeed include herbs and lettuce whereas plants such as tomatoes will struggle because they are rather thirsty.

Although the wick system is fairly self-sufficient an air pump and air stone is advisable to refresh the water.

Hydroponics Academy

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 15 Jun 2018 13:08:34 GMT

The students are seeing the plants growing up!

Installation

In October of last year we had the honour of installing a hydroponics system at one of London's leading University Academies, the University Academy of Engineering South Bank.

This was a fascinating project, particularly because it utilises a less commonly used gully system and especially because we located it in a communal area of the school.

As well as being visible to all staff and students this also had the possibility of encountering problems and challenges that would be far less likely for such a system in a laboratory environment.

We published an article here that discusses the initial design from tutor Philipp Herzberg, the setup procedure by us at Emporium and the technical aspects of what is known scientifically as a Nutrient Film Technique or NFT for short.

The Baby Stages

The NFT gully system operates such that a nutrient solution is circulated around the gullies to feed and water the plants and the solution is consistently topped up so as to maintain the concentration of nutrients.

The roots of the plants are left to hang freely in the solution so as to absorb as much of the solution as they require.

The seeds initially need propagating to develop their roots and a Stewart Propagator was used to germinate many seeds including cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes and aubergines.

Once the roots are developed they were then transferred to the gullies and more can be read about it here.

Different seeds germinated at different rates. As mentioned earlier, the plants in this setting do have the possibility of encountering problems and the leaves have encountered some disease problems.

Philipp typically overcame this by clipping the affected leaves and shared with us this slideshow blog about the various stages within the first month.

The slideshow was also shared to a highly credible Science and Education blog at www.uptrain.net

Awesome Aubergines!

After putting in the hard work, Philipp along with the staff and students at the academy began to see some beautiful results with, among many other plants, fruits and vegetables some aubergines began to break through.

Growing Up

In recent months things have continued to progress with the growth of tomatoes, peppers, aubergines along with some pretty flowers too!

This is generating a great interest with staff and students at the academy and the images taken by Philipp look great!

As well as the growing success of this project what we at Emporium love is how it is opening eyes as to how anybody can grow their own fruit and vegetables regardless of indoor or outdoor growing space. A gully system could potentially be set up in a small kitchen or even a hallway and with a little bit of imagination could also be quite ornamental too!

The students at the Academy have taken a genuine interest and there are also outdoor projects taking place now which gives them the opportunity to learn and understand the availability of cultivation techniques

Feel free to contact us for tips and suggestions!

The Best UK Hydroponics Blogs by Feedspot

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 14 Jun 2018 14:57:37 GMT

Emporium Hydroponics proudly sit in the Top 5!

To reflect the quality and quantity of our Hydroponics blog articles we have just been placed in the Top 5 by Feedspot , a leading guide to the best blogs across all subjects!

The rank is based on our reputation and search ranking with Google, the quality and consistency of our posts and our influence on Social Media including Facebook

Feedspot's editorial team clarify this by giving it their expert review.

Many thanks!

The full accreditation can be seen by clicking here

Nutrient Types

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 07 Jun 2018 16:15:55 GMT

Vegetative and Generative Nutrient Stages

There are many different styles and types of plant nutrition available that are designed to suit different growing methods. Some of the most common growth methods are using hydroponics, coco coir or soil and the nutrients can come all-in-one or as two-part or three-part solutions. The choice depends on how much control the grower desires.

There are two different stages of development for plants and these are vegetative and generative. Some plants progress through both and others just one. The vegetative stage is from a seedling to a fully mature plant and the generative stage is where a plant blooms by flowering and producing seeds. Leafy plants such as lettuce are those that only pass through the vegetative stage.

Nutrients are available for different growth stages and can be referred to as 'grow' or 'bloom' nutrients for the vegetating and flowering. Nutrients for the grow stage contain extra nitrogen to help with the vegetation.

For plants that flower, bloom nutrients that have extra phosphorous are used as this helps with the development of flowers and seeds.

Different chemical formulas will be used in nutrients to account for 'hard' or 'soft' water areas. In some areas the water contains a lot of calcium and bicarbonate and this is known as 'hard water'. As a result of this there are some nutrients that are unavailable to plants so by using a hard water nutrient mix this is compensated for.

The hardness or softness of the water in your area is a measure of how alkaline the water is. This can be easily measured with a pH meter and the higher the pH the harder the water is in the area. Checking the pH of the water is certain a key factor before commencing your growth and pH meters can be found here

Some of the key elements to look for in your nutrients are

Nitrogen (N)
Manganese (Mn)
Copper (Cu)
Zinc (Zn)
Molybdate (Mo)
Boron (B)
Chlorine (Cl)
Potassium (K)
Phosphorus (P)
Calcium (Ca)
Magnesium (Mg)
Sulphur (S)
Iron (Fe)

Propagation

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 07 Jun 2018 13:40:27 GMT

Creating new plants from cuttings or seeds

New plants can be created from cuttings or seeds. These methods are known as vegetative reproduction or sexual reproduction.

Providing the growing environment is kept the same Using cuttings for propagation means that the new plant will have the same genetics as the mother plant. This is an efficient method of propagation because if the mother plant is strong then the cutttings will follow suit.

There are several different cutting techniques such as leaf or stem cutting and the best method will depend upon the type of plant. The most important thing is to control the environment - keeping good temperature, moisture and humidity levels is crucial when preventing disease.

In terms of disease and pests, seed propagation can have an effect on decreasing the chances of this due to the genetic variation of each plant batch.

The beginning of the process is known as germination and is the stage where the first tap-root appears from a split in the seed. Seeds can germinate in a few days if they are kept in a clean and sterile medium with sufficient water.

Keeping the conditions consistent is essential for whichever method used and propagators offer a very efficient method for this. Check them out here

Awesome Aubergines!

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 27 Apr 2018 12:42:04 GMT

Some great peppers too at London's University Academy of Engineering

We supplied and installed a gully system at London's University Academy of Engineering who are teaching the students about the different methods available for plant cultivation.

Things began to take shape after installation. The system is in a communal area of the school so it requires close and careful attention to avoid contamination.

Phillip Herzberg, who runs the project at the school, sent us some delightful pictures of the latest produce that are definitely worth sharing.

The peppers and aubergines are coming along rather nicely. Well impressed!

Is My Water Hard or Soft?

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 23 Feb 2018 15:20:01 GMT

Spot the Difference...

Water in its purest form is simply a combination of two hydrogen atoms to one oxygen atom and the chemical formula is H2O.

However, the water that we cook with, grow with and drink is not simply pure H2O. Because many substances will easily dissolve in water it will pick up many chemicals from the environment en route to us. This is not necessarily something that is done by the treatment works - if you look at the back of a bottle of spring water you will see that it naturally contains many different chemicals.

The chemical composition of our water has an effect on its properties in many ways and where you are in the country will affect the dynamics of your tap water.

In certain areas people may find a residue on the bathtub or on the dishes. This is due to the water absorbing minerals such as lime, calcium and magnesium from where it reaches the ground to where it leaves the tap. Water of this type is known as Hard Water.

Soft Water lacks these mineral components and just has a small component of sodium ions within it. The water will feel smoother when washing in it and will leave less residue on a sink.

As you can imagine, the content of the water can make a significant difference where plant growth is concerned because of the chemicals within it. A quick way to ascertain if you have hard or soft water is to look inside your kettle. If there is a buildup of limescale then you are in a hard water area. Conversely, if soap easily gives a good lather in your hands, you are in a soft water area.

So, when you see nutrients labeled as Hard or Soft (sometimes HW or SW) this is why - the nutrients have been designed to feed the plants according to the type of water they receive.

A definite way of checking the hardness or softness is with a pH meter. Hard water will be alkaline, with a pH higher than 6.5. Soft water is acidic with a pH of less that 6.5. Below is a map as a guide to the water type in different areas of England and Wales.

The Carbon Challenge Award at Cambridge

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 22 Feb 2018 15:34:46 GMT

The University of Cambridge uses Green Qube to eliminate emissions!

The University of Cambridge is determined to become carbon neutral by 2050 and to assist with this they have introduced the Cambridge Carbon Challenge. The Cambridge Carbon Challenge is a scheme that is inviting both staff and students at the University to submit ideas to reduce carbon emissions across the estate.

A team by the name of Plant it Green have been awarded £24,000 to progress with their ambition of incorporating a hydroponics plant system into the campus. As well as restoring the air quality across the campuses this project has a fascinating future ahead because it will be analysing how various plants can improve the air quality in office spaces.

Human and animal breathing produces carbon dioxide and water when the oxygen we breathe combines with the glucose we use for our energy and this is the chemical equation:

C6H12O6 + 6O2 -> 6CO2 + 6H2O (Glucose + Oxygen produces Carbon Dioxide + Water)

Conversely, the plants convert water and carbon dioxide back into glucose and oxygen with the aid of light energy:

6CO2 + 6H2O + (energy) -> C6H12O6 + 6O2

Traditionally it has been sunlight that has provided the energy and the reaction is known as photosynthesis . Plants and animals have relied upon each other to refresh the air that they breathe.

The balance of oxygen to carbon dioxide has changed significantly in modern times which is predominantly due to the combustion of fossil fuels for power. We now have the opportunity to redress this balance using hydroponic systems and this research at the University of Cambridge is exciting stuff!

Green Qube Grow Tents are being used which gives credibility and stands tribute to their quality! Take a look at their products here

Read more about the University's research here and the contributions that Green Qube are making here

CANNA Aqua Vega ~ The Science

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 20 Feb 2018 12:29:30 GMT

For a plant to reach its full potential, it needs proper care and nutrition. CANNA Aqua Vega contains all the essential ingredients that your plant needs in the crucial growth phase. This will ensure a stronger plant and faster growth.

Watch the video for a full scientific exploration....

I See The Light!

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 13 Feb 2018 17:42:51 GMT

The question is - which light should I choose?

Just as sunlight energises the world, lighting is of course a crucial element for your indoor garden. The question is here - which type of lighting do we choose and when do we use it?

HPS - High Pressure Sodium

This is one of the most popular option for lighting among experienced indoor growers. HPS lighting has been in use for a good few decades and has always remained consistent. The light produced is of high intensity and is the closest artificial light to sunlight.

One benefit of high intensity light is the height at which the plants can grow. However, the heat that is generated means that the grow room requires very efficient ventilation to prevent overheating.

High Pressure Sodium produces orange light which is ideal for the flowering stage of growth. Examples of plants that thrive with HPS lighting are peppers and tomatoes.

MH - Metal Halide

Metal Halide lighting is similar in many respects to HPS both in terms of efficiency and heating.

The main difference is that MH bulbs emanate a blue light that is very well suited to leafy plants or plants prior to their flowering stages.

The two types of lighting work well in subsequent combination providing the generated heat is taken account of.

LED - Light Emitting Diode

LED lighting has received mixed reviews over the years. The operating costs and the durability of them is certainly advantageous as they will last for several years and are extremely cheap to run compared to other lighting options.

One area where LED lighting proves to struggle is at the flowering stage. If used back-to-back with HPS lighting it does prove to be a successful choice.

LED lighting has an initial cost outlay that is relatively high but the life period and low energy usage certainly repays this.

CFL - Compact Fluorescent Lighting

Compact Fluorescent Lights pack a lot of power into a small space! They can deliver up to 450W from a relatively small bulb.

An advantage of a CFL bulb is the relatively long life - they can typically last for a good ten years and they also produce a low amount of heat when compared to HPS lighting. This means that far less energy is wasted and reduces the need for heat ventilation.

However, despite the relatively high power, the lights have less intensity that their HPS counterparts. This will limit the height and growth of plants to a certain extent.

Emporium's Enlightenment

Whilst all options certainly have their own skills and attributes the most popular and suitable, in our opinion, are the High Pressure Sodium lamps.

HPS lamps are excellent when the flowering stage of plants arrives and providing the heat is controlled always deliver an excellent end result.

Prevention is Better than Cure

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Sat, 10 Feb 2018 13:15:23 GMT

An Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure!

Pests - No Guest-List!

Do not invite them in! Pests are typically invited by the grower and they can be on the person or on any plant clones that are being introduced. This problem is particularly prominent if the plants are not being grown from seed and the mother has not been free of pests.

To help avoid this keep a separate set of clothes for the growing area and ensure you get changed into them every time you access the room. This will help to avoid the possibility of bringing in new pests via your clothing.

Keep it Stress Free

Plants can get stressed too and poor temperatures, lack of food and lack of nutrients can be a cause of this. A plant's natural reaction is to release defence hormones into their cell walls and into the atmosphere. Also this is aimed as a defence mechanism, any parasites and fungus in the vicinity will perceive this as a weakness and are therefore attracted to the plants.

Keeping your plants in the optimum conditions with the ideal temperature, sufficient water and correct nutrients will help to prevent this.

Other forms of stress, such as topping your plants and giving them a healthy air flow are actually positive as they will cause them to grow stronger to a point where bugs will have little incentive to attack them.

Keep it Clean!

A very important and a very straightforward part of gardening. Keep all the tools, equipment, clothing and environment as clean as you can.

In addition, place sticky strips in various places. Bugs are attracted to yellow so use yellow strips. As well as catching them this will give you a good indication of any infestation.

Show them who is Boss!

There are many predators available that will fight the parasites. Ladybirds are one great example - they will attack any bugs that harm the plants but will not harm plants themselves.

Foliar Feeding

The main reason that bugs prosper indoors is that they don't have to endure the rain, wind and chill that they would outdoors.

Foliar feeding can combat this. Spraying the leaves with the nutrients, particularly on the underside, can irritate and prevent an outbreak of bugs. Using wetting agents within the spray can enhance this further. Read more on foliar feeding from Maximum Yield

Grow Tents versus Greenhouses

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 12 Jan 2018 16:14:39 GMT

How do we grow without a garden?

Where do we grow other than a garden? The more traditional method is to use a greenhouse. Whilst a greenhouse does offer some protection against inclement weather conditions it can require a lot of heating or cooling depending on the time of year. Unless artificial lighting is used the plants are also dependent on natural sunlight whose strength is not consistent and duration is limited at certain times of the year.

An alternative is to grow the plants indoors. But how do we do this without sufficient sunlight? The answer is to use a grow tent!

The significant advantage of using an indoor grow tent is that the ideal growing temperature can be efficiently maintained and sufficient lighting can be provided at any time of day or night. Whilst air conditions and humidity can also be optimised in a greenhouse the natural outdoor weather conditions dictate the timing of this and also add a degree of unpredictability.

The beauty of using an indoor grow tent is that it alleviates many of the hurdles and obstacles that we naturally have due to different seasonal conditions. This means, that when done correctly, we can effectively grow our crops all year round.

Another huge advantage of grow tents is that anybody can produce crops even if they do not have a garden or allotment! Also, there are no worries about running out of windowlene to clean the windows or retrieving your neighbour's football that just broke one!

What is required?

Obviously a grow tent! A grow tent is lightweight fabric that is mounted over a frame to make a cube. The fabric typically has various openings for ventilation and electrical connections. They usually have a panel that zips open so as to easily allow access for inspection, cropping and replenishing.

The thickness of the fabric is an important factor and is expressed in denier which is the term used to define the linear mass density of the shell. It will be written, for example, as 1000D. Tents commonly range between 600D and 900D - the higher the better, particularly where regular dismantling and assembly will occur.

The inner lining is designed such that it reflects light for the plants to absorb. Again there is a range here between different tents from 50% to 90% reflectivity with the higher being the better. As well as more efficient use of energy, good reflection means that the underlying foliage also benefits from a decent amount of lighting. The consistent availability, quality and direction of lighting is one of the huge advantages that grow tents have over greenhouses.

Grow tents come in a variety of sizes and our stock ranges from 3 square metres right down to half a square metre.

They are relatively easy to install and Green Qube provide Quick Qube tents that can be assembled or disassembled in minutes.

To provide sufficient heating there are a plenty of versatile heaters available to suit the size of the tent and Hydrogarden provide some great ones that we stock .

A fan and ducting system will ensure a good airflow so that the plants have sufficient carbon dioxide. The airflow also strengthens the stems of the plants as they grow.

There is a wide range of lighting systems that are designed as a great alternative to natural sunlight and timers are used to ensure the plants are getting the correct amount of heat, light and airflow.

Nutrients

Just as plants draw their food from the soil in an outdoors environment, and just as they must be fed in a greenhouse, nutrients are also an obvious requirement in a grow tent.

There is a wide range of nutrients on the market that are great for indoor growing and also for hydroponic systems. This can be done manually and there are also plenty of automated systems available such as Wilma which is an engineering collaboration between Atami and Nutriculture

Feeding does not have to be a guessing game as most manufacturers provide feed charts which are very useful indeed! A great provider is Vitaponix and they are getting some good reviews at the moment.

Some nutrients are concentrated and therefore need to be mixed with water prior to use. The amount of nutrients in the water affect its electrical conductivity (EC) and the EC can also be affected by impurities. EC is a key component in growing systems and there are meters to check this and they are very straightforward to use.

What is fantastic about an indoor tent growing system is that we have substantially more control over the nutrient and water supply to the plants in terms of both quality and quantity.

Pests

Plants in any environment can be prone to pests and disease and there is no exception where indoor growing is concerned. Although much of the growing can be automated it is very important to keep an eye on the growth and especially for this reason.

Pests and diseases can be brought in from outdoors and a common one to watch out for is spider mites which can be easily eradicated once identified. The article here gives some useful suggestions on how to avoid them. These include....

Use your own plant cuttings - other people's could bring mites with them
Disinfect your grow room after each crop
Use a set of 'clean clothes' to avoid importing pests from other environments such as parks
Add a 'bug blocker' to your air intake fans
Frequently inspect your plants with a magnifying glass
Immediately take action if required!

Outcome

Although there are several components of a growing system they are effectively the same, whether in a grow tent, a greenhouse, a cold frame or completely outdoors.

The key to success is to have a reasonable understanding of these from the outset and then applying them to a grow tent environment.

The great thing about a grow tent scenario is the amount of control you can have of the growing conditions and what you can achieve as a result. Hydroponics and indoor plant growth is overtaking the traditional agricultural methods and is certainly the way forward!

Eazy Plug - the Organic Medium

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 05 Jan 2018 11:20:03 GMT

The Eazy Plug Full Cycle

Eazy Plug Full Cycle: A Revolution in Growing

Only Eazy Plug can offer the unparalleled performance, sustainability and maximized yields all combined into one system: the Eazy Plug Full Cycle .

Eazy Plug products are totally organic!

With Eazy Plug Full Cycle it is possible to benefit all advantages of the famous Eazy Plug throughout the entire cultivation period; from propagating up to harvesting.

Check out the Eazy Plug by clicking here

The Progression of Hydroponics throughout History

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 04 Jan 2018 12:32:17 GMT

From the Babylonian Times to the Present Day

Hydroponic principles have been in practice for thousands of years and were used by the Egyptians, Aztecs and the Babylonians. These regions had dry climates and required an alternative to simply growing near to a river. In Babylon a chain system took water from the Euphrates River which flowed upwards to the landing or garden where it would satisfy the plants. An early record of this is known as the Hanging Gardens of Babylon and goes back to around 600 BC

As time progressed it was recognised that changing the plants' environments can prolong growth. During the Roman Empire the plant beds were moveable so that they could be brought inside during cold or unpleasant weather periods. This is where the idea of greenhouses originated and these were in use as early as the 13th century.

Moving forward to the 18th century, during the American Revolution, 90% of the population there were farmers. This compares to just 3% being farmers in modern times. So a question this raises is how and where are our fruit and vegetables now grown?

Well, the modern system began with scientific experiments that began in (slightly) more modern times. In 1600 it was first noted that plants obtained the substances required for growth via the water that fertilised them. This was groundbreaking research from the Belgian Jan Van Helmont.

In 1699 John Woodward studied this further and established that plants grew the best in water that contained the most soil. This demonstrated that the actual nutrients came from the soil and ware simply delivered by the water.

In the 19th century it was discovered that plants get hydrogen from the water along with carbon and oxygen from the air during a process that is now known as photosynthesis. Two German botanists discovered the formula required for plant growth. Success was achieved when the plants' roots were immersed in a solution of minerals containing calcium (Ca), sulphur (S), magnesium (Mg), potassium (K), phosphorus (P) and nitrogen (N). This process is now known as 'nutriculture' and the substances required are referred to as 'macroelements' or 'macronutrients' meaning relatively large amounts are required.

Although this science had long been discovered and researched the implementation on a large scale only really began in the early 20th century. Issues such as fertility and pests that were commonplace in traditional soil methods led to hydroponics being a realistic alternative. This alternative has become known as controlled-environment agriculture, or CEA for short.

The term 'hydroponics' first came about in a discussion between W.A. Setchell and W.F. Gericke who were very keenly experimenting at the University of California. In essence the term is quite simple with 'hydro' being Greek for 'water' and 'ponos' meaning 'working'. Now whilst this procedure was doubted at the time, Gericke proved them wrong with his 25 foot tomato plants!

This idea began to cross all borders - by the 1950's the former Soviet Union were using the techniques as well as Israel, France, Spain, Italy and England.

By the 1990's NASA were researching the possibility of growing plants on Mars and Hydroponic (CEA) techniques were used in a prototype research facility at the Kennedy Space Centre in Florida. In 1999 an American university implemented a setup that grew over 1,000 lettuces each day.

Good ideas always grow fast once the roots take shape!

According to the Guardian we are now moving towards large scale and technologically controlled farming. The technological aspects can certainly be applied to hydroponic systems and we believe that with the efficient and effective equipment available it is easily possible to grow much of your own produce without a garden by utilising indoor space or on a balcony.

We recently installed a hydroponic 'gully system' at the University Academy of Engineering in London which is teaching students how plants can be grown indoors where space is limited. Can you visualise a system that is designed to suit your decoration and furniture at home? Let us know, this would be a great thing to provide for the future!

This article was researched and written by Brockney C who would like to thank Hydrogarden , Green and Vibrant and Bowery Farming for parts of the information within.

Top tips for planting Christmas trees

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 02 Jan 2018 15:45:01 GMT

We are not too late with this post by the way!!

Christmas may have been and gone, with the steady supply of chocolates starting to dwindle, distant relatives finally packing their bags, and New Year’s Resolutions looming. But fear not, you can start prepping for next Christmas TODAY! Here are some top tips for transplanting your tree, ready for the next festive season!

A few things first:

Check your tree is real – not one of those artificial ones…
It’s advisable to remove lights, baubles, tinsel, beads, garlands and other festive decorations
Check that the tree has roots – cut offs will not grow.

Now that’s out of the way, here’s a little more troubleshooting to note before you start ;)

You can transplant your tree at any time – preferably before it becomes a fire hazard.
Is your tree still alive…?! We hope you’ve been keeping you tree well-watered and hydrated over the festive period, if not, your tree may unfortunately be a lost cause. If it’s happy and healthy, great! Carry on…
Will your species of tree cope with being transplanted? Some species of trees react better to being transplanted as they naturally cope with the drying conditions of indoor environments such as central heating, and therefore will be in a much healthier state ready to be planted. So, if you bought a Nordmann Fir, you’re in luck, as they’re very resilient; however, a Norway Spruce which is already dropping needles, may well be dead.
Can all rooted trees be successfully transplanted? Bare root trees will be harder to transplant than trees that have been grown in their container or dug out of the ground with a substantial ball of roots.
Your Christmas tree may have some new growth due to the warm and cosy conditions, especially if you were eager to get into the festive spirit and put your tree up early! Trees with new growth can still be transplanted, however the new roots could be damaged by the winter weather so the tree may not perform very well for the first few seasons (unless you’re reading this down under in Aus!)

Ok, so now you’ve double checked your tree is still alive and suitable for transplanting, you’re ready to go!

Top tip: before transplanting into the ground, plant into a PLANT!T 37L Round DirtPot - this will make it so much easier to take back out of the ground in 2018!

Dig a hole so that the tree will be at the same depth as it is in the pot.
Do not remove any soil from around the roots
Place the tree in the hole and flood the hole with water to ensure the roots are well watered, we recommend using SuperThive or VitaLink BioPac Powder to help reduce shock and develop roots
Larger trees may require cane support. Place this at an angle to the tree so that you do not drive the stake through the root ball and damage any roots.

Ongoing care:

Ensure you water your tree thoroughly in the spring and summer, as the roots will not have had time to establish themselves at a good depth.

Many thanks to our partners at Hydrogarden for plenty of advance notice!

Photosynthesis

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 02 Jan 2018 14:49:39 GMT

The conversion of light into plant energy

Plants ‘consume’ light, converting the energy through the process of photosynthesis. Light spectrum , duration and intensity are all key components to support photosynthesis. Plants receiving insufficient light levels produce smaller, longer (as compared to wide) leaves and have lower overall weight. Plants receiving excessive amounts of light can dry up, develop extra growing points, become bleached through the destruction of chlorophyll, and display other symptoms of excessive stress. Plants are also damaged by excessive heat (infrared) radiation or extreme ultraviolet (UV) radiation.

Within the acceptable range, however, plants respond very well to light with their growth rate being proportional to irradiance levels. The relative quantum efficiency is a measure of how likely each photon is to stimulate a photosynthetic chemical reaction. The curve of relative quantum efficiency versus wavelength is called the plant photosynthetic response curve as shown earlier in this section.

It is also possible to plot a curve showing the effectiveness of energy in different regions of the spectrum in producing photosynthesis. The fact that blue photons contain more energy than red photons would need to be taken into account, and the resulting curve could be programmed into photometry spheres to directly measure “plant lumens” of light sources instead of “human lumens.” This is likely to happen at some point in the future.

The main ingredient in plants that is responsible for photosynthesis is chlorophyll. Some researchers extracted chlorophyll from plants and studied its response to different wavelengths of light, believing that this response would be identical to the photosynthetic response of plants. However, it is now known that other compounds (carotenoids and phycobilins) also result in photosynthesis. The plant response curve, therefore, is a complex summation of the responses of several pigments and is somewhat different for different plants. An average is generally used which represents most plants, although individual plants may vary by as much as 25% from this curve. While HPS and incandescent lamps are somewhat fixed in their spectral output, metal halide lamps and ceramic metal halide lamps are available in a broad range of spectral outputs. With this in mind, the discriminating grower can choose a lamp that provides the best spectral output for their specific needs.

Thanks to all at Sunmaster Grow Lamps for the excellent information within the post

A quick guide to Home Aquaponics

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 28 Dec 2017 14:10:46 GMT

All you have to do is feed the fish!

Simply have two tanks - one for the plants and one for the fish, and connect them both with a pump system for the water.

The water from the fish tank for the plants is nutrient-rich from the fish waste. The water returned to the fish tank is then cleaned by the plants.

The bacteria clears any ammonia and the plants take in the resulting nitrogen.

The plant tank has an auto siphon which drains the water back to the fish.

All that has to be done is to feed the fish and occasionally check the water level in the fish tank.

Easy!

A guide to feeding with a Grow Tank

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 28 Dec 2017 12:41:28 GMT

All you need to know in thirty seconds!

Here is a complete guide to using the great gro-tank from Nutriculture in thirty seconds!

Straighforward advice on feeding, checking the EC, topping up without an EC meter, emptying the tank and testing the pH

Scrogging - The Screen of Green

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 21 Dec 2017 13:53:31 GMT

The art of forcing a plant to grow horizontally

Scrogging is a growing technique that you can use to force a plant to grow horizontally and this multiplies the light absorbing leaves. This is particularly good for a small grow room! Simply place a net or rack with meshes above your plant and this causes them to grow horizontally through the grid.

Why use Scrogging?

The main purpose of scrogging is to develop proportional foliage and spread the light more evenly across the leaves. This prevents parts of the plant missing out on the light. Because the trunk and the branches do not grow vertically this is perfect when height is limited.

What is required?

A scrog net which can easily be made with string or wire. Place the net between 20cm and 50cm above the pot and choose the height according to which plant you grow. Be sure to top the plants in time so that that develop more lateral tops. Read all about how to top on the website of our partner Plagron. The frequency of topping will depend upon the number of plants that are rooted per square metre.

How do I scrog?

Divide the side branches as much as possible over the scrognet by pushing them under the net as if they are growing horizontally. Plants naturally grow towards the light, most likely vertically, so you will probably have to bend some branches. If done with care this will not cause any damage and the plant will adapt. Don't force your plant into flowering until the scrognet is well filled. The plants will continue to grow in the first few weeks.

Hints

Remove fruit formation from under the foliage
Remove leaves that cannot get any light
Provide plenty of ventilation
Push the large branches out and the small branches towards the centre of the net.

With this system you could grow in a small cupboard - give it a try!

Top Tips for Fresh Grows

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 05 Dec 2017 15:49:11 GMT

5 useful checks when starting a new growth

Check the pH of the water. The pH is a measure of how acidic or alkalinic a liquid is and ranges between 1 and 14 with 1 being the most acidic. Pure water has a pH of 7.0 although is is extremely rare to get pure water out of a tap! In any case most growths thrive best at levels of around 6.0 to 6.5. Checking the pH of a solution is really straightforward with a pH meter such as this one from Essentials

To ensure your water is at the correct level there are addtives such as pH Up or pH Down from Vitalink and many others!

Check the EC of the water before choosing your nutrients. The EC is the electrical conductivity and is effectively a gauge of how hard or soft the water which is dictated by its salt content. Salty water is an excellent conductor but it toxic for plants and knowing the EC makes it straightforward when choosing between soft and hard water feeds. The higher the EC the harder the water. Essentials also produce a great meter for testing the EC

Keep the grow room clean and spotless! Lack of hygiene makes it far easier for pests and diseases to make their way in. When starting a new growth or eliminating pests from a previous one the ForteFog Jumbo Fumer will quickly and easily freshen things up!

When using feeds and nutrients we can always suggest the best and most suitable ones. Whichever you do choose to go ahead with, precision is the key. Follow the guidance and be accurate with the amounts added to the growth. Too little or too much can hinder the performance of your plants.

For more advice and suggestions feel free to call or visit anytime!

Hydroponics System in a School Setting

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Fri, 01 Dec 2017 11:26:24 GMT

Different plants are now taking shape - check the slideshow!

The Best Way to Grow

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 30 Nov 2017 17:22:15 GMT

Great advice from us and our partners at Dutchpro

Everybody wants to grow strong and healthy plants but some mistakes can be commonplace. Typical mistakes are....

Giving plants too much or not enough of the nutrients
Not giving them enough light or giving them too much
Assuming that all plants require the same of both

So, as with many things, planning and preparation can be the key to success!

Create the right environmental conditions

it is essential to know the optimal conditions for your plants, especially the ideal temperature, their water requirements and how much light they need.

Something else that is extremely important is the plant's sensitivity to fungal and bacterial diseases.

Plant disease can often be overlooked by both beginner and experienced growers. There is plenty of information online and our knowledgeable staff at Emporium are always happy to advise.

Ideal Watering

It is quite easy to give plants more water and nutrients than they actually need. If you stop and think about it though that is a bit like inviting somebody round for dinner, feeding them until they are full and then force feeding them more! So how do we avoid this? Well it goes back to planning and preparation.

Consider whether your plant originates from a dry or wet region to get an idea of how much water they would require.

For soil based growing, dip your finger about 3cm into the soil to gauge its dampness. If it feels slightly dry then water them until a tiny trickle of water comes out of the pot's bottom. The soil itself contains the bulk of the nutrients.

For hydroponic systems there is always an adequate provision of water and it is important to ensure the correct amount of nutrients are used. This can be done quite simply by using an EC (electrical conductivity) meter

Lighting is Essential

The above equation is called photosynthesis and demonstrates how plants combine carbon dioxide and water to produce glucose and release oxygen. Plants can only activate this process in the presence of sunlight or a suitable alternative.

The glucose that is produced by this process gives the plants the energy to grow and to bloom and of course release the oxygen required by animals.

In an indoor growing system It is important to keep a balance of how much light the plants get to replicate what the plants would get in their natural environment. Also, vegetative and flowering stages require slightly different amounts of light and this can be automated by using timers. It will vary for different plants and once again we can always advise.

With indoor growing it is also important to keep the plants a reasonable distance from the lights so as to prevent burning.

Give your plants plenty of attention

Although much can be automated with plant growth, particularly in hydroponics systems, it is important to keep a good eye on their progress.

The biggest threat to plants comes from fungal and bacterial diseases which are unfortunately very common. They are, however, very easy to prevent, combat or alleviate. Check up on your plants every day and look for any unusual signs, for example the leaf colouring.

Once again we can always advise and assist to help you avoid problems in this respect.

Plagron - Together We Grow

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 30 Nov 2017 14:05:02 GMT

Plagron take pride with supporting growth in South Africa

Our partners at Plagron have over 25 years of huge experience in the supply of plant nutrients and to show their appreciation for being in this fortunate position they are gifting their support to Africa.

This farming project demonstrates that anybody can grow their own vegetables all across the world and by supporting the Mabhalane Foundation (MMF) in South Africa they are making this happen.

From 2017 Plagron's theme has been one of 'growing together' and this has been the main focus of their mission. Their dream is to support one another, hence their support to projects such as South Africa's MMF.

To see more visit Plagron here

Propagation for the Gully System - The Baby Stages!

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 23 Nov 2017 13:59:57 GMT

From the Propagator to the Gullies

We recently had the pleasure of installing a Gully System at London's University Academy of Engineering Southbank and wrote an article about the components required, the proposed functionality and its proposed purpose. This is fascinating stuff and can be read about in full by clicking here

The growth has been initiated using a propagator . The premium Stewart Propagator gives a controlled and consistent environment which is a crucial factor for the success when it comes to cuttings and early seedling growth. The solid durable clear plastic cover features an adjustable ventilation panel allowing the air temperature and humidity to be controlled.

The propagation cubes are holding the seeds and they are gently watered so as to be constantly moist until the seeds are germinated. At this stage they are then ready to be transferred to the next growing medium.

These cucumbers are now looking nice and ready for the next level!

It is lovely to see the first cucumber seeds reaching this stage! Now that they have roots and stems the propagated baby plants are being transferred to the gully system which is the growing medium for this setup.

The nutrients are being constantly pumped along the gully channel and are absorbed into the plants through the roots which dangle in the solution.

The Omega CFL lighting is regulated by timers and the Academy have chosen three different lighting powers with the experimental purpose of establishing how much lighting is needed by various plants and what energy levels are the most suitable.

The same concept is being applied to the nutrient solutions whose strengths can also be varied across the three separate gullies within the system.

We are keen to see how the plants progress and are also hoping for a little sample of the goods sometime soon!

Gully System at University Academy of Engineering, South Bank, London

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 31 Oct 2017 13:51:16 GMT

Scientific experiment to compare different Light and Nutrient levels in Hydroponics

We at Emporium Hydroponics are really proud and pleased to be working with University Academy of Engineering South Bank who are a Secondary School that is governed by London South Bank University

Philipp Herzberg from the school gave us a design for what has already proven to be quite a revolutionary growth system and by working in conjunction with the school we have been able to install this ready to get the plantation into its baby stages! Hydrogarden have given fantastic support in terms of product supply and additional advice.

The beauty of Philipp's design it that it is a shelving system which can be installed almost anywhere, regardless of space limitations. We made a few slight adjustments, one of them being that the solution flows around the system and back to the same bucket. This means that the nutrients need to be topped up but the water does not continually need replenishing.

How does a Gully System function?

A gully system utilises what is known as Nutrient Film Technique, more commonly abbreviated to NFT. Developed in the 1960's by Dr. Allen Cooper It comprises of PVC piping with holes cut in the lids. This constitutes part of the plumbing system through which the nutrient enriched water flows.

Grow nets are placed In the holes and they will contain clay pebbles into which the seeds are placed. As the seeds start to grow the roots simply dangle into the nutrient solution and this is how the plants are fed.

Piping connects the gullies to buckets which contain the nutrient solution and submersible pumps govern the liquid flow from the buckets. The flow rate for each gully should be in the region on 1 litre per minute with a shallow liquid depth, hence the term Nutrient Film and the brackets for the gullies are placed such that the nutrient solution will naturally flow back to the buckets.

Dual Spectrum Lights hang above each gully to provide both red and blue light for the plants to photosynthesize from at each stage of their growth. The lights are effectively a substitute for natural sunlight which means the system can be installed practically anywhere.

A huge advantage of this system is the ease at which the supply of light, water and nutrients can be controlled and regulated.

The system at UAE Southbank is one of an experimental basis where different nutrient levels will be provided to each gully. For this reason there are three separate supply buckets to contain the varying solutions.

For a separate experiment different light powers will also be used and the effect that this has on the crops can be analysed.

Watch this blog for updates as things grow up!

Electrical Conductivity and EC Meters - Usage Video

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 26 Oct 2017 13:19:07 GMT

What EC is and why an EC meter is Essential

An electrical conductivity meter (EC meter) is used to measure a solution's electrical conductivity. It is a key component in aquaponic and hydroponic systems as well as traditional freshwater systems.

Its function is to monitor the amount of nutrients or impurities in the water.

The temperature of the solution has a huge influence on its conductivity so calibration of the instrument is important.

The ESSENTIALS EC Meter gives direct accurate readings of nutrient solution and is very helpful in mixing nutrient concentrate with water. All readings are automatically temperature compensated and It is easy-to-use as you can just dip the sensor into the test solution - stir and wait.

This unit will deliver a stable reading in about 20 seconds and the meter has a minimum lifespan of about 1 to 3 years depending on the rate of sampling. The energy saving feature shuts off the tester when it is not in use and the unit also displays a low battery symbol to warn you before it degrades the accuracy of important readings.

It has digital calibration at the push of a button and a lit screen for when under dark foliage. It is water and drop resistant and even if the tester is accidentally dropped into the water it will remain afloat. This means you are able to retrieve the meter immediately without damaging the electronics.

Check out the video below kindly supplied by Hydrogarden

LightHouse Max 1.2m² Tent - Installation Video

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 26 Oct 2017 11:24:14 GMT

Check out the description and video showing the ease of use!

LightHouse MAX is the premium tent for the grower who wants no compromises. It offers a durable and heavy duty frame that incorporates metal corners and the thickest and strongest poles on the market with multiple choices of ducting and cable glands all with double seals.

It is made of heavy duty Tri-Layer 600 Denier material with a new reflective liner called UltraLux, which offers up to 30% high reflectivity over traditional products and it has Tivax zips that are fitted to all doors and have a proven ability to offer a quality seal when closed.

The LightHouse MAX 1.2m² has 25mm poles and has 2 options for extraction through the roof or the side. Also there is a base side inlet with a 300mm (12") ducting gland. There are 2 x inline 300mm (12") socks for use with air-cooled lighting and 2 x 100mm (4") cable glands.

This tent has 3 x low level passive air vents with fine (anti-mite) mesh that includes light proof covers for when they are not in use and 4 filter straps. Two side doors are included for easy access to the crop.

This tent fits more growing systems and is ideal for the PLANT!T aeros IV Master System. It is recommended for a single lamp set up (600w HID) and an extraction fan around 440m3.

Thank you very much to Hydrogarden for the footage! Below the video is a link to a full tent kit complete with fans, lighting, timers and more....

Full Tent Kit

Check out the full range of tents and tent kits here

Explosive Fruits and Flowers

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Mon, 02 Oct 2017 14:28:19 GMT

Adds more Weight, Increases Essential Oils and Enhances the Flowers

A customer came in today and asked about Bloombastic so we described the benefits of it and he told us this should be on our blog. So, here you go!

Important Bloombastic Notes

During the bloom stage add Bloombastic every time you renew the reservoir. Flush before beginning to use Bloombastic in the 4th to 6th weeks.

Bloombastic is compatible with any base nutrient. For best results we recommend Atami / B’cuzz nutrients.

Bloombastic can be used in combination with a carbohydrate product as long as the product’s PK is low.

Using another high P-K product in combination with Bloombastic will result in overdose plants.

Bloombastic can be used on all substrates: Soil, Soilless mixes, Coco or Rockwool

Bloombastic can be used in combination with all irrigation systems: NFT, Ebb and Flow, Drippers, Bubblers, Aeroponics*

How to Use

Bloombastic is a BOOSTER, ACCELERATOR, TOP HARDENER, QUALITY IMPROVER and ESSENTIAL OILS INCREASING product. Bloombastic is an ORGANIC BASED PRODUCT containing sea kelp and clay minerals.

Start using Bloombastic (MIX APPROXIMATE 2 ML PER GALLON) when the buds first appear.

This will occur during the LAST 4 TO 6 WEEKS of the BLOOMING AND RIPENING stages of plant growth.

You typically will see RESULTS within the FIRST 2 – 4 DAYS.

As you increase Bloombastics dosage up to a maximum of 4 ML PER GALLON IN THE LAST WEEKS OF BLOOMING , you will see an even more DRAMATIC EFFECT from the PK boost and when the METABOLIC ENHANCERS kick in.

* We recommend you use a pump filter bag or filter if you choose to use the Aeroponics method

PK value
14-15 W/W
20-21 W/V

FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CALL OR VISIT US!

Get Bigger and Better Yields

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 12 Sep 2017 14:49:52 GMT

Use EXPANDO - A Grow Tent Essential

The Expando is a Grow Tent Accessory which when attached creates More Space for Better Results and Prevents the walls of the Tent from sucking inwards.

It gives more space for growth and light and the space increase airflow meaning there are less hotspots.

The result of this is less risk of mould and plant damage.

Check out this short video to see how this is done...

Why would I buy the Expando?
– Without using the Expando you loose more than 1/2 foot per side of your tent. Not only does Expando stop this known issue it can also gain your tent an extra 1/2 foot thus creating up to 1 foot more space per side.

How does the Expando work?
– You align the Expando inside your tent to each pole, stretch to required length, push the center out to expand your grow tent and then tighten center clamp.

What size tents can it be used on?
– The Expando is universal to all pole sizes (16-28mm) and fits all tents 1m+ from pole to pole.

How can I gain maximum results using the Expando?
– We recommend 2 Expandos (1 Pack) per side to gain maximum results. Attach ½ meter from the top and ½ a metre from the bottom for each side.

How are Extendo Grow products packaged?
– All products come with brand packaging and is then shipped in plain boxes.

When is the Expando due for release?
– After months of development the EXPANDO is IN STOCK NOW!

What are the advantages of the Expando?
– The Expando not only prevents the walls of the tent from caving in but also adds many benefits such as:

* More Space for Growth
* More Light space
* More Airflow Less Hotspots
* Reduces Risk of Mould
* Reduces Risk of Damaging Plants

Bigger & Better Yields!!

NASA begin to test their Lunar or Martian Greenhouse

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 30 Aug 2017 15:28:42 GMT

Work is in progress to plan future Hydroponics growth on other planets

Plants have successfully been grown hydroponically on the International Space Station and now long-term plans progress at the Kennedy Space Center in Florida. NASA scientists are collaborating with a team from the University of Arizona to discover suitable methods to support and sustain pioneering astronauts who will be working deep in space.

NASA researchers believe that among the many challenges facing human exploration a regular supply of fresh and good quality food is certainly one of them! An ongoing solution to this will be the use of Hydroponics systems to allow the cultivation of fruit and vegetables. Dr Ray Wheeler, the lead scientist at Kennedy Advanced Life Support Research says that "We're working with a team of scientists, engineers and small businesses at the University of Arizona to develop a closed-loop system. The approach uses plants to scrub carbon dioxide, while providing food and oxygen."

The system being used is called a Biogenerative Life Support System. The prototype pictured above uses an inflatable greenhouse and supports the growth of plants. This growth then provides nutrition, water recycling, waste recycling and refreshes the volume of oxygen in the surrounding air. As Wheeler correctly noted, astronauts exhale carbon dioxide (as does any living human), then through the process of photosynthesis the plants inhale this and generate oxygen as a result. A continuous flow of water runs across the roots of the plants and nutrients are consistently added to the water. This could be water brought along on the exploration mission or water discovered close to a landing site.

Tests are being conducted on various seeds to give an indication of what should be taken along. "We're mimicking what the plants would have if they were on Earth and make use of these processes for life support," said Dr. Gene Giacomelli, director of the Controlled Environment Agriculture Center at the University of Arizona. "The entire system of the lunar greenhouse does represent, in a small way, the biological systems that are here on Earth."

The prototypes in use are of a cylindrical shape with an 6 metre length and almost 3 metre diameter. Computer models are used to simulate the environment. It is viewed that these greenhouses would need to be buried under the surface soil of the planet so as to eliminate the risk from the radiation levels. Plant lighting would be provided by LED's, by which successful hydroponic yields have already taken place. It is also possible that solar light could be captured and transmitted to the chambers via fibre optic bundles.

This work from NASA taking place here on Earth compliments the work already taking place in Outer Space and gives further indications of how important hydroponics will become in the future...

Space Gardener enjoys Multiple Harvests

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Mon, 21 Aug 2017 13:07:02 GMT

NASA use the 'Cut and Come Again' technique

NASA are progressing further with their Veggie hydroponics system and are using the 'cut-and-come-again' technique for their Red Romain lettuces.

This arrangement is where the larger leaves are harvested whilst the smaller leaves are allowed to continue growing. This can be repeated several times meaning that a new plant does not need to be seeded after each harvest. It also reduces waste because if the plant was allowed to grow for the full amount of time it may not be possible to eat all of the leaves before they spoil.

NASA astronaut Shane Kimbrough cut some of the leaves for a mid-afternoon snack from the chamber where six plants are being grown simultaneously. Kimbrough has taken the role of the on-orbit gardener, a part time role as much of the setup is automated. Qualified gardeners at the Kennedy Space Center have provided support by keeping a close eye on the plants.

Nicole Duffour, the Veggie Project Manager at Kennedy said that "During their first week of life, the small seedlings were getting too much water. This put the plants’ growth a bit behind schedule, but they recovered nicely after we instructed Kimbrough to use a fan to dry up some of the moisture.”

As well as providing astronauts with nutritious fresh food this project can potentially provide science samples for the study of plant growth in space and there is a harvest every 10 days. Duffour adds that "Testing this method on-orbit, after using it on the ground, is very exciting for us. A repetitive harvest allows us to provide more food for both the crew and for science, so it’s a win-win. We are looking forward to hearing how Shane enjoys his first harvest!"

This experiment demonstrates how NASA recognise Hydroponics as an essential part of space exploration and also gives a great indication of how Hydroponics can be used in many different environments.

Stay on board - We will be keeping you up to date...

Fresh food grown in a Space Station

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 17 Aug 2017 12:45:48 GMT

And yes, we do mean the International Space Station!

We mentioned in an article last year entitled What is Hydroponics that fresh food had been grown in outer space and NASA reports that this is set to become an ongoing thing!

The crew on the International Space Station spent several weeks cultivating red romaine lettuce and ate this for the first time on August 10th 2015 in the orbiting laboratory.

The plant experiment, entitled Veg-01, was used to study the performance of plant growth in space and the rooting pillows which contained the seeds. According to NASA It was also used by astronauts as a recreational activity during the mission.

The collapsible unit used included a flat panel LED light bank with red, blue and green LED's. The three colours facilitated plant growth and allowed for observation by the crew. According to Dr. Ray Wheeler of NASA the concept of growth using LED lighting was created by NASA in the late 1990's.

Wheeler stated that "blue and red wavelengths are the minimum needed to get good plant growth.The green LEDs help to enhance the human visual perception of the plants, but they don't put out as much light as the reds and blues"

The principles of vertical agriculture are being considered for the future. This is similar to the system that is currently used on Earth for much of our fruit and vegetable production. It is effectively a stack of shelves for plant growth using electric lighting and nutrients that are added to the water supply.

The psychological benefits of hydroponics are being investigated by NASA's Human Research Program. Alexandra Whitmire, a Behavioural Health and Perfomance scientist, mentions that "Future spaceflight missions could involve four to six crew members living in a confined space for an extended period of time, with limited communication. We recognize it will be important to provide training that will be effective and equip the crew with adequate countermeasures during their mission." Her team are researching the positive effects of plant life and hydroponics on the crew's behavioural conditions, performance and communication.

Also working on the project is Dr. Gioia Massa who adds that "the farther and longer humans go away from Earth, the greater the need to be able to grow plants for food, atmosphere recycling and psychological benefits. I think that plant systems will become important components of any long-duration exploration scenario."

The whole concept of this is fascinating and the last statement from Dr Massa certainly has relevance to those of us on Earth who do not have space to grow outdoors!

We are following and watching these developments and will keep you updated!

Watch the video below and keep your eyes peeled for the latest developments....

ECOHEAT from the Lighthouse

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 15 Aug 2017 15:03:37 GMT

Create a perfectly warm environment for your growth...

Provide a stable environment to protect your plants against sudden temperature drops or low night temperatures with ECOHEAT.

The ECOHEAT tube heater from LightHouse is available in three sizes – 45w (305mm), 80w (608mm) and 135w (915mm). Helping to keep a balanced temperature in your indoor growing environment, this heater is particularly useful in propagation areas where a regular ambient temperature is critical.

LightHouse ECOHEAT tubular heaters are now available with both EU and UK plugs. They are IP55, splash and sprinkler resistant, they also feature brackets for use on the floor or mounting to a wall.

View the full Lighthouse range by clicking here

Video kindly provided by Hydrogarden

When it's about Air Flow you Can Fan!

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 15 Aug 2017 14:24:15 GMT

See the Can Fan in action with this video...

Can Fan RKLS plastic tube fan, is a speed controlled backward centrifugal extractor, using a resistant, maintenance free plastic housing.

It is equipped with a rotating switch that divides the maximum airflow of the extractor into four different levels of performance and there is no need for additional electronic speed controllers or transformers. The speed change is performed using only the switch attached to the fan.

The Swiss made motor has an integrated thermal switch.

See the Can Fan range by clicking here

Video kindly provided by Hydrogarden

Wilma Set-Up Guide

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 10 Aug 2017 14:23:00 GMT

Check out this video from our partners at Nutriculture - Yabba Dabba Doo!!!

Starting off Right - The Seven P's

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 03 Aug 2017 13:15:35 GMT

Excuse our language, but Proper Planning and Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance!

When designing your indoor grow space grab as much information as possible before arming yourself with the physical tools to put it into practice. This will make it it so much easier to choose what size grow tent to buy, how much reflective material is required and the most suitable lighting for the task at hand. Adding this to the correct sized fan and filter will also mean you can ensure that all the required components all coordinate well together.

Designing the ideal growing environment is great and it is also essential to understand the needs of the plants that you are planing to grow. A proper understanding of this will help you to plan and prepare for success. Things to consider are the correct pot size for a plant so as to ensure that whilst the roots have sufficient room to grow and flourish you are not pouring excessive nutrients into the pot. As well as balancing your growth costs this will also make it less likely that you run out of nutrients whilst we are closed!

Also research your plant's growth rhythm patterns beforehand so as to get a clear idea of their feeding needs throughout all of the growing stages.

A good growroom slogan is to plan for the worst then expect the best. As with anything, especially where technology is involved, there is always a margin for error. Consider what can occur due to faulty light hangers, worn out ballasts, blown bulbs and from nature's point of view an influx of pests or disease. Accepting that issues can occur will allow you to prepare for and mitigate them beforehand.

A moral of the story is that when you have a plan, success can almost always be guaranteed. So first and foremost, grab a tape measure, measure up your growroom and visit us for a chat!

Best wishes!

Vertical Farming

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 27 Jun 2017 12:58:13 GMT

The Way Up is The Way Forward

An ongoing and pressing challenge for agriculture is to grow more food with enhanced quality and efficiency. Sustainability is also a crucial factor and Hydroponics is certainly proving to be a good way forward.

Vertical Farming is actually the colloquial term for multi-layer hydroponics. Plants are grown in water instead of soil and the approach in how this is done has developed significantly over the last 20 years.

The head of hydroponics wholesaler Hydrogarden , Steve Fry, believes that this is resourceful way of reducing pollution, waste and the dependancy of oil in our more traditional farming systems.

Hydrogarden have a demonstration system in their Coventry warehouse which shows how the low-energy LED lighting, combined with nutrient solutions, feed several plants whilst providing the energy for photosynthesis. The video below covers this in some detail.

Using lettuce as a good growing example, Fry states that such a system can develop 2,000 butterhead lettuces in just 28 days. At present it is predominantly herbs and salad product that can be produced in such a manner and this method uses far less energy that typical open-soil farming.

A source of frustration among growers is that the Soil Association does not currently acknowledge foodstuff that is grown in this way to be organic. Fry's opinion on this is that it is crucial to change the mindset and opinion towards modern agriculture. Crops can potentially be grown "on the tops of buildings, in disused car-parks” as all that is required in the environment to get started is ventilation and a source of electricity.

An excellent example to verify Steve Fry's opinion is the disused Air Raid shelter in south-west London that is now utilised by Growing Underground . The shelter was leased in 2012 and the two founders, Steve Dring and Chris Nelson, aim for this to become the biggest Vertical Farming system in Europe. The produce, predominantly micro-greens and salad leaves, is stocked by wholesalers as large as the New Covent Garden Market.

A slogan from Growing Underground proudly states on their website that products go from 'Farm to Fork in under Four Hours'. With sustainable growing practices being prioritized the system uses 70% less water than traditional farming and can supply Londoners ranging from individuals right through to wholesalers within hours of being picked.

A more detailed description of Growing Underground's operations can be read here and the future for hydroponics is certainly an exciting one!

Unzip and Grab the Goodies!

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 22 Jun 2017 09:45:14 GMT

Grow Tents are the Straightforward Way

Indoor growing can be very straightforward when carried out with the right equipment from the outset. Grow tents offer a tidy, self-contained space in which everything can be kept organised so that it runs smoothly.

Grow tents are quick and easy to set up and have a rigid frame that supports the cloth container. The cloth's interior is lined with a reflective material that improves the efficiency of the lighting system by allowing plenty of light distribution. The lighting system can be hung from the frame's crossbars on the ceiling and the zippers give the entire tent its own controlled environment whilst allowing easy access.

By having its own environment the tent provides a great degree of security which is particularly useful when growing certain plants that may have a strong or pungent smell to them. In any case it is easy (and essential) to set up ventilation so that fresh air with sufficient CO2 is brought in for the plants to breath. In the case of odour, a carbon filter can be attached to the exhaust fan to eliminate this as it leaves the tent.

A discrete tent will also keep pets and pests away, which anybody who has done outdoor gardening will appreciate for sure!

The main equipment required for a grow tent is lighting, reflectors and a fan system. A good starter kit can be found here - the main thing is to ensure your lighting and ventilation are set up correctly as was discussed in previous articles.

There are plenty of different ways of growing such as the traditional method with soil or other systems such as aquaponics or hydroponics, which we will discuss in future articles.

In the meantime feel free to contact us anytime to find out more!

No need to get hot and bothered!

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 21 Jun 2017 10:26:02 GMT

How to help your growroom chill out...

In a recent post about temperature versus light intensity it was mentioned how hanging the grow lights too close to the plants can cause scorching.

With that in mind, it is also important to keep a good healthy balance of the temperature in the growing environment.

There are plenty of items and plenty of methods to choose from and here are a few that can prove to be successful.

Water Chillers

It is not just the air in a grow room that becomes heated, the water does too. The ideal temperature for the water is 68°F ( 20°C) to prevent overheating and reduce the chances of algae growth.

As well as keeping the nutrient solution at the best temperature, water coolers can also reduce the air temperature when applied in the form of water-cooled reflectors and water-cooled radiators.

Water cooling can be up to 50% more efficient than using the more traditional air conditioners.

It is worth noting that if the water cooler is used to reduce the air temperature it should be kept outside of the grow room, otherwise it will simply release the heat back into it!

This process is known as heat exchange.

AeroTube Reflectors

When used in conjunction with a fan and appropriately sized tubing the AeroTube from Lumii removes the heat generated by the lighting and exhausts it from the grow room.

This is another heat exchange process.

Simples!

Nutrients

One crucial factor of plant growth to keep in mind is nutrition.

A plant's tolerance to heat can be enhanced with silicon based fertilizers. The silicon becomes incorporated into the cell walls and allow a better transpiration rate. This makes the plant stronger in terms of regulating its own internal temperature.

A good silicon-based fertilizer is Silicon Max from Vitalink

Sometimes the simple solution can be the most effective!

Giving Growth the Green Light

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 15 Jun 2017 14:33:20 GMT

Blue and Red light are both essential for good plant development but Green light is often overlooked. The common perception is that since leaves are green, plants reflect green light rather than absorbing it. Although this is true, green light does trigger responses in plants, hence its' importance.

Green Light Response

Green light either triggers specific processes in plant tissues, or serves as a check on the effects of light at either ends of the spectrum. Plants have sensitive light receptors known as phytochromes and cryptochromes.

Phytochromes detect light from the red end of the spectrum and cryptochromes detect light from the blue end. These sensors are not as efficient at responding to green light as they are at responding to light at the blue or red ends of the visible spectrum.

The phytochromes, however, are the primary mechanisms plants use to adjust and survive in lower levels of light. The green light receptors inform the plant of unfavorable lighting conditions so the plant can change accordingly.

Green light passes through plant tissue more efficiently than red or blue light. This means plants grown in dense shade, making use of the available green light, produce seeds and seedlings that are better adapted to growing in similar environments.

The germination rate decreases in low-light environments, but the seeds that do germinate are better suited to their surroundings.

A 2012 study (Zhan and Folta) using Arabidopsis thaliana found plants exposed to high amounts of green light during early development grew as if they were growing in shade.

This phenomenon continued when the plants were then exposed to blue and red lights.

How Young Plants Respond to Green Light

As seedlings produce their embryonic first leaves, they are not producing large amounts of chlorophyll. The available green light seemingly helps fill that void until the plants are able to photosynthesize more effectively on their own.

Green light is also important to help promote dense growth. As much of the available light is absorbed and used by the upper canopy, the leaves below need to adapt to make use of the green light that is filtered through.

What a Grower Needs to Know About Using Green Lights

Another benefit of green light is making working conditions better on the grower. Monochromatic light or even a combination of red and blue light can cause eye strain if growers work under those conditions for any appreciable amount of time.

A plant’s true colors may not be fully visible to the observer, potentially masking the ability to spot the early stages of nutrient deficiencies or the onset of pest or pathogen issues.

Supplemental green hand-held or plug-in lighting can sometimes be used to work with plants at night without disrupting the night cycle photoperiod.

Yields and Growth of Plants Exposed to Green Light

In the last several decades, various trials using different types of lighting aimed to determine which combination is best for growth and yields.

One study (Went, 1957; Klein et al., 1965) compared results when tomatoes were exposed to red and blue light versus white light containing red, blue and green wavelengths. The tomatoes exposed to the white light were actually somewhat inhibited as measured by the dry weight of the bio-mass of their seedlings.

This suggests green light impedes, to an extent, the ability of plants to reach the potential of plants exposed to just red and blue lights.

Similar studies were performed using near ultraviolet and green light to determine the effects on plant growth. Results as far back as the 1960s revealed that light in the green wavebands (510-585 nm) repressed the growth of a wide range of organisms, including algae, fungus, higher plants and even plant cell cultures (Klein, 1964; Klein et al., 1965).

Other studies found green light can greatly stimulate the flowering process in plants. Recent results suggest the heading of some plants can be increased by as much as 50% with green-yellow light at 540 nm (Kasajima et al., 2007).

A Michigan State University Extension study (Runkle and Wollaeger, 2014) found plants grown with 50% green and 50% red light were about 25% shorter than those grown under only red light, but about 50% taller than plants grown under more than 25% blue light, proving blue light suppressed extension growth more than green light in an enclosed environment.

Researchers determined using 25% green light could substitute for the same percentage of blue light without affecting fresh weight, but the electrical efficiency of green LEDs was much lower than blue LEDs.

Several NASA studies on the effects of using different amounts of green light also reveal similar results.

Trials done with lettuce showed that light with 5% green wavelengths had little impact on total mass, but that when green light levels were increased, it was not only a waste of energy, but it significantly hindered plant growth (Kim et al., 2004).

NASA wants astronauts to be able to grow some of their own food while in orbit and has been extensively researching hydroponics and lighting for plant growth.

Types of Green Light Bulbs for Growers

For growers thinking of adding green lights to their indoor crop production scheme, there are several ways to do so. Green lights are available in bulbs, tubes and LED configurations.

They are also available as T5 fluorescent tubes for those with standard ballasts. For those with traditional screw-in sockets, numerous manufacturers produce green bulbs emitting as low as 5 W.

For LEDs, green lights may be part of an array with red and blue lights, or may come as solid green. There are green LED lights that operate by battery, as well as those that plug into a standard wall outlet.

They can be configured into flashlights, work lights, wrist lights, head lamps and even embedded into hats and glasses.

Though not as ubiquitous as red or blue lights, green lights can be found in grower supply stores with just a little bit of searching. White grow lights can also contain a certain amount of green light in them for those who don’t want to commit to a full green light but want to try to add a bit to their set-up.

Though it appears that green light is an impediment to plant growth, it seems to be a check on other plant systems.

Nature is full of examples of these seemingly opposing purposes acting in concert to yield results that are best for organisms and their respective systems. Green light is not apparently useful for plant metabolism, but it does seem to play a role in plant form and composition, as well as being a catalyst for the better use of other types of lights when plants are grown in unfavorable conditions.

It also appears to be a natural growth regulator and could be used in instances where shorter, fuller crops are desired.

Plants that are more tolerant of shade, or actually thrive in it, are better suited to receive some amount of green light. This is useful for growers of houseplants such as Aspidistra and Philodendron.

What does this mean for the home grower? If all other systems are in good balance, green light may not be necessary. If systems are not in balance, however, the addition of green light may help your plants make better use of the light they are receiving.

Many thanks to Maximum Yield for the information above

Guide To Starting a Budget Set Up

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 29 Mar 2017 10:44:06 GMT

The Guide for the Best Setup using Budget Components

Check out this video for full details of a cost effective tent setup and a detailed description of how to get it up and running.

Video kindly provided by Hydrogarden

Components included:

LightHouse LITE 1.2m Tent
LUMii Compacta
LUMii SunBlaster
LUMii MAXii Reflector
LUMii Powerplant Heavy Duty Timer
LUMii Rope Ratchets
RAM Filter
RAM Inline Duct Fan
RAM Ducting
RAM Variispeed

Handling Aggressive Liquids

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 16 Mar 2017 16:11:56 GMT

Solid advice kindly provided by Growth Technology

Spider Mites

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 01 Mar 2017 13:26:58 GMT

Spot them and eradicate them

Spider mites are tiny insects that are difficult to spot with the naked eye but the damage they can cause to your plants can be very noticeable indeed.

Despite the fact that they are both undercover and very troublesome they are surprisingly easy to deal with if done with care.

How to identify spider mites

The pests measure around 1mm in length, are usually cream or red in colour and are easily overlooked. The following signs on your plants will give a clue to a possible infestation.

Tiny white dots on the leaf surfaces
Leaf discolouration
Webs that cover the plants
Webs that are constructed between plants
Dead or dying leaves

How to deal with spider mites

Spider mites can be far easier to eradicate than destroying your entire stock of plants. In fact destroying the plants will not get rid of the infestation because the female mites can remain dormant and are effectively hiding within your grow room. The females can actually last for over a year without food and once conditions become more favourable they will begin to lay eggs once again.

A smoke bomb can completely destroy all of the spider mites in the environment. Alternatively, pest control sprays can reduce their numbers if used on a daily basis.

Preventing Spider Mites

Use your own plant cuttings - other people's could bring mites with them
Disinfect your grow room after each crop
Use a set of 'clean clothes' to avoid importing pests from other environments such as parks
Add a 'bug blocker' to your air intake fans
Frequently inspect your plants with a magnifying glass
Immediately take action if required

Conclusion

Be aware of the above tips and keep your system safe from pests. If you need any tips or product advice then we are of course happy to assist!

Many thanks to Zadlo Builders for some of the information contained above.

Hydro Max - VitaLink Growth Chart

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 15 Sep 2016 13:08:19 GMT

This is a subtitle for your new post

We stock all the Vitalink products listed below in the grow schedule. Click here to see all the Vitalink products.

Earth Max - VitaLink Growth Chart

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 15 Sep 2016 12:23:15 GMT

Schedule your feeding times for growing using the VitaLink Earth Max Growth Chart

We stock all the Vitalink products listed below in the grow schedule. Click here to see all the Vitalink products.

Coir Max - Vitalink Growth Chart

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 15 Sep 2016 11:09:36 GMT

Schedule your feeding times for growing in coir using the VitaLink Coir Growth Chart

We stock all the Vitalink products listed below in the grow schedule. Click here to see all the Vitalink products.

PLANT!T® aeros IV master

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 14 Sep 2016 13:56:14 GMT

The PLANT!T® aeros IV is a 4 plant Deep Water Culture system, also commonly known as a bubbler system. These are very popular hydroponic systems that require very little growing media, but do require a lot of nutrient/water solution. The PLANT!T® aeros IV is best suited for short term and seasonal cropping plants.

The plant is supported in a net pot filled with a growing media such as clay pebbles and the roots are submerged in a highly oxygenated nutrient/water solution. The PLANT!T® aeros IV includes 4 aeros modules and a separate nutrient solution master tank with a level indicator. The nutrient solution is recirculated around the whole system with a high quality pump to ensure that each plant receives the correct amount of solution. The two twin outlet air pumps and a submersible airstone in each tank provides a large amount of oxygen to the roots of the plant, resulting in rapid growth.

The bubbles produced by the airstone keep the nutrient/water solution constantly moving and oxygen-rich, so that the roots stay healthy.

PLANT!T® aeros IV benefits:

Purpose design – better than a DIY system, everything you need is included
Easy to monitor – remove inspection port cover to check pH/EC readings
High quality pump – ensures nutrient solution is recirculated across the system

ONA – Apply Anywhere You Have Odours

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Tue, 06 Sep 2016 15:05:18 GMT

ONA Odor Neutralizer has been destroying odors effectively for many years and is used in hydroponics and commercial applications worldwide. ONA was originally developed for use in industrial applications to neutralize strong odors in sewage treatment plants, rendering plants and chemical plants. It uses three processes: absorption, adsorption and the “Pairs” Theory to virtually cancel out most organic and non-organic odours.

Hydroponic Applications – For Peace of Mind

ONA has built its reputation as being an effective odor neutralizer for the hydroponics and gardening industry. Indoor gardening can result in strong and undesirable odors that can create problems for the growers. In order to have a zero odor impact, it is imperative to use a product that attacks and completely eliminates these odoUrs.

ONA’s formulation is designed to attack any type of odor, regardless of type or source. Because it is a wide spectrum formulation, it will neutralize virtually every non-organic and organic odor, and leave only a clean, fresh scent.

Numerous Commercial Applications of ONA Odor Neutralizer

ONA’s powerful odour neutralizing capability makes it ideal for most commercial applications. Regardless of the source, it will get the job done.

GreenPower Contactor - Lighting Control Unit

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 17 Aug 2016 10:10:39 GMT

Safely control the day and night settings of 2 to 28 HID hydroponic grow lights

Safely control the day and night settings of 2 to 28 HID hydroponic grow lights with UK built Green Power lighting controllers.

Up to 28 lights can be controlled from 1 GreenPower Lighting Contactor.

These robust contactors control the ‘on’ and ‘off’ periods of lights and fans without wires trailing and without risk of your timer burning-out.

Contactors are essential for growers wanting to automate grow light on and off periods because standard timers can’t handle the electrical surge of HPS and HID lights used for plants.

Description

GreenPower Contactors safely and reliably switch lighting ballasts and fans on and off according to the schedule that you set on the contactor’s timer.

Each of the contactor’s sockets is individually switchable, so you don’t need to run all the grow lights all the time.

Every aspect of GreenPower Contactors is designed with safety and reliability in mind…

Made from steel
Galvanised wall-mountable back plate the width of the entire unit
Thick rubberised cable – no risk of light degradation
Built-in Grasslin timers
UK designed and built
2 year warranty

The GreenPower contactors for 12 to 28 lights are even more robust.

These are heavy duty contactors which send power to the ballasts bank-by-bank to avoid big surges and they feature…

Circuit breakers
Time delays to protect ballasts in the event of short power failures
Battery reserve on the timer.

Note: Commercial units must be hardwired by a qualified electrician.

Why use a Contactor?

Plants need a period of darkness, so most growers set a timer to turn their grow lights on and off at specific times. The HPS and HiD grow lamps generate a large spike in electricity when switching on.

Without a contactor this electrical spike travels through the timer and is enough to cause the timer to burn-out, leaving the grow lights in the on or off position until you manually switch them.

With a contactor the power goes through the robust switching components of the contactor. The surge doesn’t go through the timer itself, so there’s no risk of burn-out.

How It Works

Plug your ballasts and fans into the Green Power Contactor.
Load the GreenPower contactor evenly, so if you are using 4 ballasts in a GreenPower 6 unit plug 2 ballasts into each side.
Plug the contactor into the wall sockets.
Set the timer on the contactor with the desired lights ‘on’ period. If you are plugging a fan into the contactor the fan will also switch on at the same time as the lights.

Questions & Answers

Can I use a grow light contactor with an extension lead?

We advise you do NOT run a contactor from an extension lead. Likewise we advise you do NOT run an extension from a contactor socket. Both these actions are unsafe as they are likely to lead to overloading.

Why do some of your contactors have 2 plugs?

The contactors have 2 plugs because UK mains plugs have a maximum safe draw of 13 amps. A 1000W ballast can require around 5 amps, therefore to safely draw enough power for more than 2 x 1000watt lights (10 amps) you need to use more than one wall socket.

I have a spare socket in my contactor, what can I use it for?

If your grow room is too warm you could plug a fan into the spare socket. The fan will run when the lights are on and keep the temperature down and the air flowing.

Can I run a combination of ballast sizes from one contactor?

Yes, as long as you do not exceed the maximum load. Add up the total wattage of the ballasts you plan to use and check the guide above. Due to the variances in different ballasts you should also ensure that the total current requirement on one side does not exceed 13 amps.

Gavita Plasma Full Fixtures

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 11 Aug 2016 14:09:26 GMT

Light much closer to natural sunlight than can be achieved by Metal Halide

These Light Emitting Plasmas (LEP’s) emit a spectrum of light much closer to natural sunlight than can be achieved by Metal Halide (MH) or High Pressure Sodium (HPS) lamps.

Gavita LEPs produce very low levels of heat radiation, meaning they can be positioned close to the crop for improved light absorption.

The wide glass spectrum filter allows low quantities of UVA and UVB light to pass while shielding crops from UVC.

View the video for more details...

Rhino Carbon Filters

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 11 Aug 2016 14:00:15 GMT

The carbon has been positively charged so it attracts organic particles like a magnet!

The activated carbon in Rhino filters has been ground to a fine powder so there are no air pockets in which odours can remain, instead plant and fertiliser odours are trapped and absorbed.

The carbon has been positively charged so it attracts organic particles like a magnet! Every filter is checked and certified to confirm the source and quality of the carbon.

View the video for more details...

Adjust-A-Wings

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 11 Aug 2016 14:00:11 GMT

The Original Adjust-A-Wings reflector system.

Features a superior high grade, glass coated aluminium shade which reflects 95% of all available light and will not dull or corrode under normal grow room conditions.

Each Adjust-A-Wings Avenger is supplied with the Super Spreader, allowing growers to position lamps as close to their plants as possible and utilise the maximum amount of light.

Gavita Digital Ballasts

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 11 Aug 2016 14:00:03 GMT

Suitable for use with Metal Halide and High Pressure Sodium lamps.

Power HPS and metal halide lamps cooly and quietly with these digital ballasts. Digistars output at a very high frequency which prevents acoustic resonance.

The soft-dim feature reduces light output in 60 second steps to protect your crop and extend the life of the lamp.

View the video for more details...

House and Garden Coco

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 10 Aug 2016 10:48:40 GMT

House and Garden Coco is a natural plant substrate made from the cleanest coco peat available in the world today

House and Garden Coco is a natural plant substrate made from the cleanest coco peat available in the world today, direct from one of the leading substrate manufacturers in The Netherlands.

House and Garden Coco is not sterilised or treated with harmful chemicals to retain the natural beneficial of the cocos substrate.

Watch the video fore more information!

Plant Magic Pure Clean

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 10 Aug 2016 10:28:56 GMT

Plant Magic Pure Clean is a super effective cleaning agent that works perfectly in any system

Plant Magic Pure Clean is a super effective cleaning agent that works perfectly in any system, alongside any nutrient regime.

It will ensure pumps, parts and tanks are free from salt deposits and build up. This will prevent blocked tubes, pumps and the failure of moving parts.

Pure Clean will also break down salt build up in the root zone for better nutrient uptake and prevention of toxicity.

Watch the video fore more information!

Plant Magic Oldtimer Magnesium

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 10 Aug 2016 10:22:41 GMT

Organic Magnesium will prevent Magnesium deficiencies, resulting in faster growth, better fruit development and increased aromas.

This product will give a boost of Magnesium within the growing media, quickly releasing it to the plant.

The perfect organic supplement to accompany any nutrient line for soil and compost users.

Watch the video for more information!

Rhino Silent Thermostatic Fan Controller

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 10 Aug 2016 10:14:06 GMT

The controller’s sensor scans the environment every 20 seconds

The controller’s sensor scans the environment every 20 seconds to determine the best fan speed for the set optimum temperature.

Housed in durable steel casing with a galvanised back panel ready to hang either inside or outside of the grow room.

Watch the video for a demonstration

House and Garden Roots Excelurator

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 10 Aug 2016 09:54:09 GMT

House and Garden Roots Excelurator is the most powerful root stimulator currently available on the market

House and Garden Roots Excelurator is the most powerful root stimulator currently available on the market. This powerful root stimulator ensures a massive explosion of root mass, rids the plants of any brown roots, root diseases and provides an excellent rhizosphere (root environment) in the growing medium.

Roots Excelurator creates a film around the roots, which functions as a kind of membrane. It keeps harmful diseases and germs out of the root zone but allows the absorption of nutrients.

Watch the video for more information!

IWS Flood and Drain

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 04 Aug 2016 16:11:24 GMT

IWS Flood and Drain - Hydroponic System

How Gro-Tank and Multi-Duct hydroponic systems work

Plants sit on the NFT System’s sloping tray and nutrient solution is constantly pumped from the reservoir over the bare roots on the tray above. Whatever the roots don’t takeup flows down the slope and back into the reservoir.

The roots have unrestricted access to nutrient solution and oxygen – maximising nutrient solution uptake and growth.

NFT Gro-Tanks & Multi-Ducts have often been described as a pure hydro growing technique, this is because there is no media present within them. Just start in your preferred method – rockwool, coir pellets, soil, and transplant straight onto the Gro-Tank or Multi-Duct trays. No more hauling media around!

The advantage of Gro-Tank or Multi-Duct NFT systems are that the bare roots have constant access to oxygen and a freely flowing supply of nutrient solution, making them grow quicker and stronger.

The nutrient solution flow is shallow at only 1-3mm, and quite slow, it runs just fast enough so that the nutrient solution is in constant motion, this gives the roots time to absorb what they need, when they need it.

NFT Gro-Tanks & Multi-Ducts are designed low to the ground so that growing space is filled with plants and not the hydroponic grow system.

Watch the video for more information!

Wilma

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Thu, 04 Aug 2016 11:05:36 GMT

Wilma System Introduction Video

Wilma is a joint collaboration between Atami and Nutriculture and is as simple to use as a pot, but with less maintenance thanks to the timer which automates feeding.

The pots are filled with your chosen growing medium, you set the timer to the desired feeding duration and frequency, and a pump delivers nutrient solution through the drippers into the pots. Perfect if you want the familiarity of pots and the increased yields produced by plants fed little and often.

The Wilma dripper system is the most versatile grow system, with an option to suit every grow space.

The Wilma hydroponic dripper system is designed low to the ground so that growing space is filled with plants and not the hydroponic grow system.

Watch the video for more information!

Guide To Starting a Budget Set Up

emporium196@hotmail.co.uk (Brockney C) — Wed, 03 Aug 2016 12:54:19 GMT

Get it all from Emporium Hydroponics

This is the guide to starting a budget set up with a LightHouse LITE 1.2m Tent, LUMii Compacta, LUMii SunBlaster, LUMii MAXii Reflector, LUMii Heavy Duty Timer, LUMii Rope Ratchets, RAM Filter, RAM Inline Duct Fan, RAM Ducting, RAM Variispeed.

If you're looking at building your first growing indoors set up this is the guide for you on how best to do so with budget components.

Growing Up

Using Nutrients in Hydroponic Growrooms

Get the balance right...

1. Macronutrients

2. Micronutrients

3. How Nutrient Solutions Are Made

4. Types of Hydroponic Nutrient Solutions

5. Fertiliser Types in Hydroponics

6. Nutrient Deficiencies and Toxicities

7. EC and pH Monitoring

Prepare in Advance for Summer!

Don't get caught out last minute!

1. Temperature Control

2. Light Management

3. Humidity Levels

4. Watering and Nutrient Solution

5. Pest Prevention

6. Water Source & Quality

7. Prepare for Power Outages

8. Plan for Holidays or Absences

9. Maintain Cleanliness

10. Monitor Your Plants

Choosing the Light option...

Setting up Air Filters in your Grow Room

There are different filters for different purposes....

Types of Air Filters You’ll Use

HEPA Filters (Air Cleanliness & Pathogen Control)

Intake Pre-Filters (Dust & Pest Prevention)

Basic Airflow Setup for Hydroponics

Maintenance Schedule

Extra Tips for Hydroponic Rooms

Using Odour Neutralisers in a Grow Room

Here’s how to use them properly without hurting plants or wasting money.

These neutralise odours chemically instead of masking them. ❌ Avoid

3️⃣ Placement matters (this is where most people mess up)

Why? You want to neutralise smell after it leaves the plant environment, not before. �� Rule of thumb: If your plants can smell it, it’s too close. 4️⃣ How much to use

5️⃣ Use neutralisers as a support system

6️⃣ Extra pro tips ��

Air Movement

The Science that will Go with the Flow

The Ideal PK Ratio

Let your plants bloom in fine style

Set up your own Grow Tent Hydroponics System

Setting up and using a hydroponics grow tent is all about creating a controlled environment where your plants can thrive without soil

1. Choose Your Grow Tent

2. Gather Equipment

3. Set Up the Tent

4. Prepare the Hydroponic System

5. Control the Environment

6. Daily & Weekly Maintenance

7. Harvesting & Cleaning

What about a nice organic approach then?

Here are the advantages (and slight challenges) of the organics....

�� Benefits of Organic Nutrients in Hydroponics

⚠️ Challenges to Consider

The Nutrients required for a Soil-Based Grow Room

The Guide to Macronutrients and Micronutrients

Organic:

Synthetic (liquid or granular):

Feeding Schedule

Pest Control with a Smoke Bomb

Grab them before they grab your plants!

Trimming your plants for the best growth

Plenty of straightforward ways to keep your crop tip-top!

Why Trim Hydroponic Plants?

General Trimming Guidelines

When to Trim:

What to Trim:

Tools & Hygiene

Trimming by Plant Type

Lettuce, Spinach, Herbs (e.g., Basil)

Tomatoes, Peppers

Cucumbers

Tips & Cautions

Why we should use pH pens in a hydroponic setup

pH ranges from 0 for acidic to 14 for alkaline.

�� 1. Nutrient Availability Depends on pH

⚗️ 2. Prevent Nutrient Deficiencies & Toxicities

�� 3. Stability in Recirculating Systems

✅ 4. Fast, Accurate, and Easy

These neutralise odours chemically instead of masking them.

❌ Avoid

Why?
You want to neutralise smell after it leaves the plant environment, not before.

�� Rule of thumb:
If your plants can smell it, it’s too close.

4️⃣ How much to use